Author Topic: UAII Cab (Read 5636 times)

Marky_1979 · « **on:** April 29, 2005, 04:23:02 am »

Im about to embark on the construction of my UAII cabinet but before i start i was wondering if anyone had any last minute tips or ideas or problems that you might have encountered in the construction of your UAII cabs??

Many Thanks - Marky

Teknique · « **Reply #1 on:** April 29, 2005, 06:40:58 am »

Buying the paper cut outs saved alot of time. The plans and templates seem to be only "suggestions" as I found a number of places I either wnated to modify or were lacking in detailed info so I made modifications. The CP design was lacking, consider modeling it on the parabolic curve of the slikstik quad. UAII cabs seem extra wide I had to disassemble multiple parts I had not expected to in order to get it closer to where I wanted it.

When making the keyboard drawer, do yourself a favor and get full extension cabinet hardware, otherwise the drawer will be halfway under the cp when you pull it out.

Tek

dema · « **Reply #2 on:** April 29, 2005, 09:55:35 am »

I didn't have any problems with the plan cutouts I did for my brother, but if I had to do it over again I'd just pay for the precut wood they sell on their site. Maybe it's because I already cut so much wood for my own custom design, but I wish I had saved the time by buying things pre-cut. That also would have reduced any human error, where my measurements were off slightly on occasion.

Taborious · « **Reply #3 on:** April 29, 2005, 11:10:06 am »

I am finishing up the final touches on my AUII cab and I built it from the plans. What it boils down to is do you have the tools to do the job. If you don't and you don't have much woodworking experience then definetly buy the precuts. If you have some skills you should be fine, but plan on a couple of weekends and get some help you can do it alone unless you own a woodworking shop. The hardest part I had was the angle cuts, there are not many but since I was using just a circular saw and not a table saw it was a little tricky. I had to make some minor modifications but who cares it still looks the same. The one best piece of advise I can give is BE PATIENT and do it right the first time or you will be doing it wrong the 3rd and 4th time too...

jer2665 · « **Reply #4 on:** April 29, 2005, 12:43:00 pm »

http://www.retroblast.com/reviews/ua2_kit.html

retroblast review.

namedos · « **Reply #5 on:** April 29, 2005, 03:45:50 pm »

I completed my UAII a couple weeks ago.

The angle cuts were the most difficult and I had to stop and think twice for each cut to make sure I was cutting it off the right side. I used a table saw and it really was easy. The large cuts I used a circular saw for. Don't try using a jigsaw unless you have a guide.

When it comes to assembly make sure you laminate the coin door area before you start putting it together as the instructions indicate. Difficult to do later.

You are not limited to the coin door cutout that is in the plans. Decide which Happ coin door you want to use and cut out the hole based on the dimensions from Happ.

Cut out the speaker holes before you assemble that piece, very difficult to do after assembly.

Install t-molding on lower section before you add top section.

When installing two upper pieces make sure they line up. I used clamps and a level to make sure they were lined up vertically and horizontally.

It was a lot of fun for me...take your time and enjoy it!

Taborious · « **Reply #6 on:** April 29, 2005, 04:15:35 pm »

OH, one thing I forgot to mention. I made my UAII so I could take the top half off in case I had to move it; which you will. I didn't want bolts sticking out the side either so I found some neat recess thingys, I don't know the name but they were about 5/8 inch diameter and the center was hollow with threads and the outside had threads as well to so you can screw it into the wood and then screw a bold through the middle. this allowed me to laminate the outside and have no bolts or holes on the outside and screw bolts from the inside of the botom half of the cab to attach the top half. hope that makes sense but that worked great for me...

Timoe · « **Reply #7 on:** April 29, 2005, 05:03:21 pm »

Where did you get these things? Can you attach a picture of them? I want to use them for my UAII.

jer2665 · « **Reply #8 on:** April 29, 2005, 06:36:49 pm »

Quote from: Taborious on April 29, 2005, 04:15:35 pm

OH, one thing I forgot to mention. I made my UAII so I could take the top half off in case I had to move it; which you will. I didn't want bolts sticking out the side either so I found some neat recess thingys, I don't know the name but they were about 5/8 inch diameter and the center was hollow with threads and the outside had threads as well to so you can screw it into the wood and then screw a bold through the middle. this allowed me to laminate the outside and have no bolts or holes on the outside and screw bolts from the inside of the botom half of the cab to attach the top half. hope that makes sense but that worked great for me...

hrm, maybe this could be a good place for tnuts, maybe rout out a really tiny recess so they rest flush, and then bolt from the inside, i haven't built an arcade yet so i'm not sure.

Flinkly · « **Reply #9 on:** April 29, 2005, 11:30:18 pm »

it sounds like he's talking about t-nuts. they seem to come a couple different ways. one you thread in using a drill, the other you pound in using a hammer. both work well (not from experience, just knowledge of the workings and applications i've seen).

Marky_1979 · « **Reply #10 on:** April 30, 2005, 10:28:55 am »

Thanks guys theres certainly given me alot to think about.

Marky_1979 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 02, 2005, 09:49:43 am »

Did anyone find out what i need to conect the top half and the bottom for easy dissasembly?

jer2665 · « **Reply #12 on:** May 02, 2005, 01:10:50 pm »

I say give t-nuts a shot. I haven't seen a UAII already assembled to know if they'd be perfect, but I can't think of any reason it wouldn't.

[url]http://www.stafast.com/products/tnuts.html[url]

Taborious · « **Reply #13 on:** May 02, 2005, 01:54:46 pm »

What I found were very similiar to the link to the t-nuts, except mine screwed in. Sorry I don't have a picture of them already in cab, but I go them from Home Depot in the fasterners section. In that section there is a small unit for furniture assembly and I foudn them there. They have a couple of different sizes. What every you purchase make sure you think it through, for mine I had to recess 1/16 inch so it didnt bubble the formica and make sure it will not easily unscrew itself when you remove the bolts but they are designed not to do that.

Marky_1979 · « **Reply #14 on:** May 02, 2005, 03:18:39 pm »

im based in the UK and we dont have a home depot so not sure where i could get them or what to ask for??

rgecko · « **Reply #15 on:** May 02, 2005, 03:40:15 pm »

My one suggestion would be to frame your cabinet, using 2"x2" and drill into that, instead of the edges of MDF, to make sure your cab is rock sturdy, i also added a 2"x4" across the base of the monitor area, and then one the back of the top section, so that when I take it apart it has extra support in that area. I also opted for painting it instead of laminating, which I found to be better, as any gaps I had, I could fill in with wood fill, and caused a lot less frustration, only problem I had with painting it was when I put the top back on the base it was a real pain, as I painted both parts that touched, and they didn't slide together smoothly. I also forgot to measure the depth of my TV, which caused a small problem, when I put it in, and had to cut a hole in the back so it would fit.

namedos · « **Reply #16 on:** May 02, 2005, 04:56:11 pm »

I used 5X8" plywood instead of MDF. Never really liked MDF and didn't like the weight. Plywood is definitely more but worth it to me. I glued and screwed all pieces together and it is solid as a rock.

I did use a little bit of wood putty or painting caulk in all of the upper joints to make sure no light would come through. I did laminiate the exterior and paint the interior.

I will be posting some pictures in the next couple of days so you can see what it looks like.

One other suggestion that helped was to clamp the opposing sides together (two lower side pieces, two upper side pieces and two control panel side pieces) and I used a belt sander to make sure they were the same size. Seemed to help with construction.

Marky_1979 · « **Reply #17 on:** May 03, 2005, 04:47:42 am »

Which is the best material to use would you say for weight and strength?

Steve Kaz · « **Reply #18 on:** May 03, 2005, 08:34:24 am »

I'm starting with the basis UAII plans, but I'm going to install studs on the floor piece so i can add casters, on the shelf to support the TV, and on the sides of the TV so it doesn't move at all if the cabinet is moved

Taborious · « **Reply #19 on:** May 03, 2005, 10:45:31 am »

Well remember this isn't a jungle gym so I have seen some people overkill their construction. Which isn't really a bad thing just more work. The biggest problem you will need to worry about for the construction is moving the cab around, that will put he most stress on your cab.

As for the UK for the t-nuts or equive. I know there is a major home improvement franchise I just cant remember the name. But if you go looking for t-nuts I think you will be OK. Just go to the fasteners section and look around and you will find what you're looking for to allow a 2 part construction with no bolts through the outside.

As for construction material, that is all going to be personal preference. I used MDF and haven't and didn't have any problems with construction. I used 3/4 MDF as NO place in the states seems to carry 5/8MDF. If this is your first cab give yourself more time that you think you will need for construction because you may think you know what you are getting into but once you start construction all the little things start getting in the way, so be patient...

Marky_1979 · « **Reply #20 on:** May 03, 2005, 11:26:46 am »

Thanks Guys this is all great stuff never thought that much to be honest think im gonna use MDF seeing as it my first cab and not really that skilled at working with wood.

I know for a fact im gonna have to take it apart at some point when i move so i would rathet this be an easy option rather than a real complex issue.

Flinkly · « **Reply #21 on:** May 03, 2005, 04:47:07 pm »

um, plywood is much lighter than mdf. also, if your going to the store to buy it, you could always see for yourself. also, plywood has more strength to it. now i'm not saying mdf is bad, but it shouldn't be used for everything. with both i would make sure to have some sort of internal support, too.

Truecade · « **Reply #22 on:** May 03, 2005, 05:55:13 pm »

Quote from: Marky_1979 on May 03, 2005, 11:26:46 am

Thanks Guys this is all great stuff never thought that much to be honest think im gonna use MDF seeing as it my first cab and not really that skilled at working with wood.

I know for a fact im gonna have to take it apart at some point when i move so i would rathet this be an easy option rather than a real complex issue.

You should also check your local lumber distributers for black melamine. 3/4" melamine is pretty common, and it will save you the time of having to paint or laminate many of your panels. You just have to be careful not to scratch the panels when yu're putting the thing together. I found a place close to me that sells 3/4" black melamine for $27 for a 4x8 sheet. It's not as cheap as painting, but it is much less expensive than using laminate and it looks just as nice.

Marky_1979 · « **Reply #23 on:** May 04, 2005, 04:22:32 am »

Is Melamite already laminated then? sorry a bit confused

paigeoliver · « **Reply #24 on:** May 04, 2005, 04:43:03 am »

Quote from: Marky_1979 on May 04, 2005, 04:22:32 am

Is Melamite already laminated then? sorry a bit confused

Not sure if it is truly laminated, but it definitely already has a nice hard finished surface. Similar to most prefab furniture if I am remembering correctly.

Flinkly · « **Reply #25 on:** May 04, 2005, 11:15:28 am »

melamine is what they call mdf that has a plastic coating already on one (or sometimes both) sides. the coating is kind of like laminate, but doesn't seem as thick and heavy duty as most laminate i've seen. most people use this for closet shelving and the such. you can find it at home depot, but only in shelf sizes, aka, 12 inches deep and many feet long. most local lumber yards carry something like this in 4x8 sizes though.

Marky_1979 · « **Reply #26 on:** May 05, 2005, 04:53:04 am »

That sounds like what i need saves all that effort and time painting when i can have all the hard work already done. Anyone in the UK know where i can get this in sizes big enough for a cab?

MrTroy · « **Reply #27 on:** May 05, 2005, 03:35:45 pm »

Question about that Melamine stuff... is it like that pre-laminated wood? Because they told me not to use that at home depot if I planned on cutting it, cause it'd splinter easy. What's the difference between that and Melamine?

rgecko · « **Reply #28 on:** May 05, 2005, 03:37:13 pm »

if you are going to cut melamine, then yes you need to cut it carefully as it may chip... I opted for MDF and Melamine paint.

Truecade · « **Reply #29 on:** May 05, 2005, 04:16:51 pm »

Quote from: rgecko on May 05, 2005, 03:37:13 pm

if you are going to cut melamine, then yes you need to cut it carefully as it may chip... I opted for MDF and Melamine paint.

Agreed. If you're cutting rectangular melamine panels with a halfway decent table saw then you shouldn't see any chipping. Where you get chips is when you're cutting strange angles (ie cabinet sides) using a jigsaw or circular saw.

Also, I believe melamine is actually particle board (not MDF) with a thin coating of plastic laminate. My advice would be to use melamine and a table saw for the rectangular panels and MDF/Plywood/Particle Board + countertop laminate for the sides. I laminated 5/8" MDF for the first UAII cabinet I built and took forever. If I did it again, I would go the melamine route.

BTW, I think Mameroom.com uses black melamine for their pre-fab kits.

Marky_1979 · « **Reply #30 on:** May 05, 2005, 04:38:35 pm »

DONT WANNA BUY IT AND CHIP IT SO MIGHT BE SAFE IF I USE MDF

Marky_1979 · « **Reply #31 on:** May 08, 2005, 06:24:31 pm »

Well think im gonna start this weekend with everything
What tools are best for cutting?

rgecko · « **Reply #32 on:** May 08, 2005, 10:18:14 pm »

A Circular saw and guide (I just used a straight edge of scrap MDF that I knew was from a perfectly straight cut) for straight edges, or a table saw, a jig saw for any round cuts, the circular saw or table saw should also be able to do angled cuts on different intervals.
You can also use a router with a flush trim bit to cut one side, and then use it to trace out the other side so that they match perfectly, you'll also use the router for your T-molding slot and finally a drill to put in the screws.

Steve Kaz · « **Reply #33 on:** May 09, 2005, 12:39:49 am »

I started cutting all of the MDF early saturday and finished tonight. I mainly used a circular saw and a jigsaw (and a 2 inch hole saw).

I used a speed square at first, but my circular saw had a laser sight that seemed to make things go faster. I don't know if i taped the templates down at a slight angle or if the MDF sheet was off, but the speed square method seemed a bit off.

Anyway, the cutting was alot easier than anticipated, of course, i haven't lined anything up yet to see if it matches.

I also cut two sheets of MDF at once...

Marky_1979 · « **Reply #34 on:** May 09, 2005, 05:01:58 am »

Thats one of my main concerns not having a background in woodwork i fear it will look very rough and getting it to look both professional and matched up is something that bothers me.

Plus im hiring the tools so need to make sure i get the right ones thanks for the help guys at present i dont what these tools look like but hopefully once i see them will have a better idea how they work.

Wish me luck as i cant afford to hire the tools and buy the wood and then screw it all up

Marky_1979 · « **Reply #35 on:** May 09, 2005, 10:28:18 am »

Does anyone know of a company in the UK that would sell the wood needed and amybe even cut the pieces out for you?

Does this service exist?

rgecko · « **Reply #36 on:** May 09, 2005, 10:30:02 am »

Look for places that have a CNC router, and call them up. That would be your best bet.

Marky_1979 · « **Reply #37 on:** May 09, 2005, 10:32:10 am »

Hey thanks so ill ask around about this cnc router

rgecko · « **Reply #38 on:** May 09, 2005, 10:34:29 am »

Not sure where in the UK your are but here's a start: http://www.cncrouting.co.uk/

Marky_1979 · « **Reply #39 on:** May 09, 2005, 10:37:42 am »

Fantastic mate thanks alot im based in Derby in the Midlands are you from the UK?


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