Control Panel: Attaching

[Graham1]

Hi again

I'm planning on using removable CP's for my project. My original plan was to bolt onto the sides of the cabinet (i.e using 2 bolts each side). Has anybody tried this? Another idea was to just rest in the frame of the cabinet (with the bottom of the CP open for easy access). With the CP being horizontal, I thought it would fit in nicely and hold well. Can you see any problems in doing it this way. I've viewed most of the examples here but haven't yet seen any that are attached using these methods. Please comment?

[nipsmg]

Personally, I made mine removeable (for various reasons) and hinged the top:

http://arcadia.gerety.net/gallery/index.php?Qwd=.&Qif=Cabinet004.jpg&Qiv=thumbs&Qis=M

the control panel is a separate entity, it secures to the bottom through 4 bolts that go through from the inside of the control panel into 4 L Brackets secured to the inside of the cabinet (2 on each side).  The bolt goes in through the inside of the control panel, and is secured from underneath with wingnuts. 

When I want to take it off, I merely reach in through the coin door (or pull the keyboard drawer out), unscrew the wingnuts, pull the bolts out, and lift.

This really helped for testing too, because I could keep the control panel on the floor, and run the cords through the coin door, then fix whatver wiring problems I had while it was off the cabinet.. (They attach using a 2 parallel and one monitor (15 pin) cable).  It really helps when moving it too (I've had to move 3 times since I built it, and one more FINAL move in a month or so).

--NipsMG

[ALeX K]

great looking CP...! can you tell me a little more about the hinge pls? Thats exactly how i am planning to do my panel. I was thinking of using 4 cabinet hinges, mounted to the inside front face of the CP box allowing the top CP surface to fold up, as yours does. Got any more photos of the CP? Thanks

[Graham1]

I thought about using a hinged CP but decided to go with a fixed one. I chose to use removable CP's so I have the flexibility to add more later (i.e spinner, trackball, etc). I won't be using a coin door (not yet anyway) but should be able to get underneath the CP (bottom open) to unscrew wing nuts either side. Do you think 2 on each side would be ok? The CP sides would be resting on a ridge (attached to the side of the cabinet) with the top of the CP resting on the sides of the cabinet (hope that makes sense ) for support. Btw, nice CP and cabinet.

[Heinekenator]

Alex - take a look at piano hinges in your local hardware store. They're inexpensive, sturdy, and dont look bad if exposed. The only downside is that you have to drill into the edges of your MDF/ply, so be sure that the hinge mounting holes are directly in the middle of the edge, and drill small pilot holes.

[mahuti]

Lockdown clamps. Happ sells them. You may also be able to find them at your local hardware store. These can secure very tightly without much effort. The lockdown brackets are also rather cheap and easy to install.

[M3talhead]

They can also go by the name "Suitcase-style latches".

[Wade]

Lockdown clamps. Happ sells them. You may also be able to find them at your local hardware store. These can secure very tightly without much effort. The lockdown brackets are also rather cheap and easy to install.

I agree, this is what most real arcade games use and it's for a good reason.  Just reach into the coin door and flip the latches, CP comes off.  Much easier than Wing Nuts (which is what I used on my CP, which is not normally removed - only for moving through doorways).  At the time I hadn't seen or thought of the latches.

Wade

[SteveJ34]

I took an approach similar to nipsmg with a piano hinged top on a control panel box which in turn rests on the ledge following a modified "Lusid" upright design.

Instead of have angle brackets or latches, I added (2) 2x2 braces across this area for added strength/support. I then drilled down through bottom of CP box and through these supports.

Added carriage bolts with wingnuts.

Easy to remove and sturdy as a rock when in place. Here's a lame paint pic...

[SirPoonga]

See my WWW link.  mine is held in place with two L brackets, 1 hinge, and my "shelf" which is getting redesigned to be flush with the top of the CP.

I can take better pics some time.  hopefully I will remember.

[mahuti]

Suitcase latch > draw-pull latch >lockdown clamp

http://www.outwaterhardware.com/catalog/form04.asp?page=1

[quarterback]

Suitcase latch > draw-pull latch >lockdown clamp

http://www.outwaterhardware.com/catalog/form04.asp?page=1

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[quarterback]

Try these:

http://outwaterhardware.com/catalog/form06.asp?pg=products&NU=Y&pn=CAT-641

http://outwaterhardware.com/catalog/form06.asp?pg=products&NU=Y&pn=CAT-642

http://outwaterhardware.com/catalog/form06.asp?pg=products&NU=Y&pn=CAT-643

http://outwaterhardware.com/catalog/form06.asp?pg=products&NU=Y&pn=CAT-1771

[cholin]

Actually, I had an idea for mounting my CP that I got from a store while looking at their drawers.  You know how you pull a drawer out and then it locks place and will not go farther without lifting it?  Well I got an idea from that, except the reverse.  The CP will have a hinge at the BACK (the part closest to the TV) which will allow it to lift up.  Since the screen is on a good angle, it will be safe, and possible held up with spring loaded supports (just brainstorming).  Once the CP is lifted, it can be pulled out by scrolling it along the drawer tracks.  This will give it a lift action if I just want to rewire or access some switches under the panel, and will also make it much easier to remove   Good idea or bad?  I was also thinking of putting "contacts" at the back of each panel and one set of contacts on the cab itself so that when you slide a panel in, it locks and it eliminates wires.  Example:  an N64 pack - you slide it into the machines and it's read by the contact strips, instead of putting it in and manually connecting a wire.  WHAT DO YA THINK?

[ALeX K]

thanks for all the replies.... i was thinking of using four of these on the inside front face of the cp box, out of sight...





that way i can get to the cp inards easily. The CP box would have four wing nuts and clamp fixings thru the bottom of the box, into a flat plane in the cab... all touching edges would be lined with neoprene to reduce vibration.

[mahuti]

Use those lockdown clamps. You won't HAVE vibration. Seriously, clamps are easier than wingnuts, at least if you can get an arm in the inside of the machine.