Which Monitor is better? Help please...

[JLR2000]

Looking at getting a refurb. pc monitor for a gutted Pole Position cab I have.  I have a choice between two models, and I'm not that up on monitors.  Anyone have any recommedations one way or the other?  Here's the specs....

1. Model: GDM-20E20
    Manufacturer: Sony Electronics
    CRT Size: 20.0"
    Viewable Size: 18.4"
    CRT Type : Vertically Flat Sony Trinitron
    Dot Pitch: 0.28mm Aperture Grill
    Maximum Resolution: 1600 x 1200 @ 75HZ
    Refresh Rate : upto 160Hz
    Display Color: unlimited
or
 
2. Model: NC2082BA
    Manufacturer: NCD
    CRT Size: 20.0"
    Viewable Size: 19.0"
    CRT Type : Convetional CRT
    Dot Pitch: 0.26mm
    Maximum Resolution: 1600 x 1200 @ 75HZ
    Refresh Rate : upto 120Hz
    Display Color: unlimited

Thanks for your opinions!

[Dink]

If they are the same price, I'd get #2 for three reasons:

1.  dot pitch is better
2.  more visible screen area (not like .6" is a lot)
3.  sony trinitron's have a line through the lower area of the screen (search google for more info) (on arcade emulation you won't see it, but on hi-res SVGA you will.)

This is if you are going on specs only.  Of course, you'd have to see which one is in better physical condition also.

[JLR2000]

Thanks for the reply!  #2 is slightly lower in price, and I'm not too concerned about the physical case since the front will be painted black and this will be inside a cabinet.  I thought #2 looked better, and you bring up an interesting point with Sony.

Thanks.

[MameFan]

1) What's going to be the use of this monitor?  That will affect the decision. However I will *presume* this is going to be for MAME gaming only, correct?

- Though I love Trinitrons for surfing/graphics work, I would NEVER buy a Trinitron tube for gaming.. TOO sharp graphics/pixels. Not even close to an arcade tube.

- The Trinitron has a smaller viewable size too. Get as BIG as you can get for gaming, because if you mount it horizontally but want to play vertical games, you loose 3/4" for every inch smaller in the tube. E.g. a 18" viewable gives 13.5" diagonal for vertical oriented games, a 19" viewable gives 14.25" diagonal...

- Even though normally, for classic gaming, I'd recommend the worse dot pitch (e.g. I'd much rather get a .30 dot pitch instead of .25 for classic games to get closer to authentic arcade tube .42, .52 or even .80 dot pitch) the clarity ofthe Trinitron tube will end up making it look too cartooney even though it has the wider dot pitch.

Between these tubes, I'd go with the .26 dp.  I'd look around and see if you could find a .30-.32 in conventional CRT and may save even more money, otherwise, take it and go.

[MameFan]

Also, I'd highly suggest you remove the case all together and mount the tube in a 3/4" or 1" thick plywood frame. Better for heat disappation and if you mount it on a square board (e.g. frame up around it to make a square opening), you could make it with notches to allow you to rotate it to vertical should you want to play vertical games in full size for a few months, then rotate it back.  a 19" viewable tube should weigh about 80 pounds total, and that thick of plywood (if tightly cut next to the tube) will safely hold it.)

[JMDickson]

Trinitron Tubes  are usually capable of brighter output.  If you are going to mount it behind tinted glass, or use it in brighter environments, the Trinitron might have an advantage.  
20" Trinitron tubes will have 2 faint horizontal lines.  These are wires used to tension the grill behind the face of the CRT.  They are only visible with light solid backgrounds though.  I doubt you could see it behind tinted glass.

[JLR2000]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Here's what I'm doing with it -  I got a gutted Pole Position upright cab with all the original controls/speakers/glass/coindoor intact(no monitor).  I made some modifications to the gas pedal, did a mouse hack for the steering wheel, and hooked it all up to a dos box running mame with Pole Position/PP II.  I only have a 15" monitor sitting on the existing shelf now, the original bezel actually goes back a ways and to a smaller 19" hole (I Think).  So I'm just looking to get this monitor to put in the cab to make it look as much like the original as possible.   Anyway, since I've spent next to nothing on the project, I wanted to get a decent sized monitor to make it look complete.  I have everything working, recompiled the PP driver so that the PP original shift controls work. The coin door had no mechs, so I hooked the bulbs up to a spare power line from the pc and I modified the door with switched so when you press in the red coin return parts it actually is read as depositing coins.  Anyway, thanks again for all the input.