Priming and painting help

[Punchcard]

So I have all the components needed for my cab, and most of the wood cut. I want to prime and paint the panels prior to assembly (right?) but am unsure what I should use/get.

Cab is 5/8 ply, sanded on one side, which will naturally be the exterior.

I don't really want any wood grain showing through, will I be okay or will I have to use a thick primer or paint to get that?

As for the paint, a satin or semi gloss black is what I am shooting for (I guess).

Other than that, I am a total paint dolt. All my carpentry is in  respect building sets for theater. I would run and hide when they broke out the paint, it was somone elses department. What kind of primer, oil-water-latex based etc?

[rampy]

I'd get some KILLz oil based primer and have it tinted like the color you will covering it with...

How do you plan on applying the paint ? roller, spray, spraycan?

Flat paint shows the least amount of imperfections, but is drab (can put a shiny clear coat over it though)

Oilbased sounds good for a heavy duty finish...

I used eggshell finish on mine... and it came out so-so but that was mostly due to operator error...

I'm sure others will chime in with their preferences... but in the meantime, why not try the forums search feature as there's a couple of great threads on this from a few months ago.

best of luck...
rampy

[spidermonkey]

Rampy is right. You definately want to use "KILZ" as a primer/sealer. I think it comes in oil base and latex versions.Personally I like the oil base version as I feel it has better sealing capabilities than the latex version. Plywood has knots and knots have tree sap in them and if you use latex the sap will bleed through the finish coat. It may take several weeks to do so but it WILL bleed through eventually. And yes ,you can apply latex on top of oil based primer. I laminated my cab with black satin formica but if I had painted my cab I would have used satin latex as my finish coat. In my opinion,satin paint gives the closest look to the original cabinets. Here is a list of paint sheens going from flattest to shiniest. Keep in mind that not all paint manufacturers follow these sheens in this order but the majority do. Decide on a brand of paint and then ask the salesmen what the sheen chart is for that manufacturer.

1) flat
2) eggshell
3) satin
4) semi gloss
5) gloss
P.S. another quality primer/sealer is "Bin" which is made by the Zinsser corporation. Works just as good as Kilz.
Hope this helps

[Frostillicus]

Listen, what you REALLY need is SANDING SEALER.  KILZ is mainly designed to cover up color on walls when you need to paint said wall a lighter color(example - to paint a red wall with white paint, you put on some kilz first, then paint with white. otherwise you'll get a pink wall.)  Sanding Sealer is designed for wood - it seals up the grain and after some sanding after 2-3 coats you get an amazingly smooth finish.  I believe it seals the wood better than kilz.  
Steps you should take, sand the surface to get a generally smooth surface.  Apply 2-3 coats of sanding sealer(comes in a big red/white gallon can at woodworking shop) then sand with 400 to get really really smooth finish.  you'll go through a lot of rolls.  What the sealer does is fill up the grain without adding a lot of thickness to wood, like paint could do.
Then ROLL on paint with a very fine high grade roller(not a long, furry one like for your living room wall).  Some people use an air-gun to spray on the finish, and I hear that is good too.  In any case you should use high gloss paint.
Trust me - check out the cab i just finished on my website(link on the left there). The reflections are awesome without being like the epoxy paints on cars(that might be a little too reflective)  real woodworkers will agree that this is the correct way to seal up the wood and fill in the grain.  You spent a bit of time building the thing, might as well do the finish right.  ask your local woodworker guy.  
If you're skeptical(and I was when I first started many years ago), take a piece of scrap and take the time to try different finishing methods on it.  Pick the one you like the best.  Good luck and post some pics when you get done  

[Brad Lee]

This is excellent advice for what I'm looking to do-

I've got a cab that the sides are in very nice condition, once I peeled off the full side-art. Once the big sticker was off it's a pretty smooth surface, the particle/press board. Instead of all paint, or all decal, I plan to use paint, and then overlay some automotive grade vinyl flames.

Once I get the color matched as close as I can on scrap, what can I do to blend the edges of the decal better? Is there some kind of spray-on clear coat that'd seal everything and make it relatively smooth?

[rampy]

Listen, what you REALLY need is SANDING SEALER.  KILZ is mainly designed to cover up color on walls when you need to paint said wall a lighter color(example - to paint a red wall with white paint, you put on some kilz first, then paint with white. otherwise you'll get a pink wall.)  

I don't doubt that sanding sealer is a great/best product type for this application... but what you said about kilz is b.s. if you're going a darker color you get it TINTED so you'll need less subsequent coats of regular paint... If you look at the side of a kilz can or  
visit there website they list the applications... and it's main application isn't ONLY to cover up color on walls.

But with that said, Frosty's cabinet did come out awesome, so it's hard to dispute his recommendation/knowledge re: using the sanding sealer instead of kilz.

rampy

[Frostillicus]

 If you look at the side of a kilz can or  
visit there website they list the applications... and it's main application isn't ONLY to cover up color on walls.

Well, I stand corrected - thanks for the info.  I always thought kilz was just for covering up walls and such - but it must be like rust-o-leum - many many uses for what is basically a can of paint. and thanks for the good words about my cab I appreciate it  

[Yarb]

I used a coat a filler type primer that is made to fill imperfections. after application it needed A LOT of sanding to bring down the high spots. I then applied a sealing primer designed for paint application and wet sanded that. Finally a coat of paint and a thick layer of clear coat and the finish was awesome. I still wonder if it was worth all the effort though, what a pain.

Yarb

[Mike]

I used kilz on mine with a satin finish paint. You do not want to use a high gloss or semi-gloss paint. It will not look good unless you airbrush it on. A satin paint will look fairly shiny and not show the streaks. I recommend put a coat or two of kilz on it. Look for any knots or imperfections that are really showing through and putty them. Allow it all to dry. Then sand with a very fine sandpaper. Then apply another layer of kilz. Take a look if it looks smooth go ahead and paint it otherwise repeat what you just did.

[neuromancer]

You do not want to use a high gloss or semi-gloss paint. It will not look good unless you airbrush it on.

It is possible to use gloss paint on wood without spraying it, and have fantastic results. I've got semigloss paint on most of the woodwork in my house. You just need to know how to prep and paint.

Bob

[Mike]

You do not want to use a high gloss or semi-gloss paint. It will not look good unless you airbrush it on.

It is possible to use gloss paint on wood without spraying it, and have fantastic results. I've got semigloss paint on most of the woodwork in my house. You just need to know how to prep and paint.

Bob

Your woodwork is probably white or some other lighter color, not black.

[neuromancer]

You do not want to use a high gloss or semi-gloss paint. It will not look good unless you airbrush it on.

It is possible to use gloss paint on wood without spraying it, and have fantastic results. I've got semigloss paint on most of the woodwork in my house. You just need to know how to prep and paint.

Bob

Your woodwork is probably white or some other lighter color, not black.

True. And it is much easier to finish with light colors. But, I have seen old wooden things finished in gloss black -- mostly furniture -- so that can be done too.

If I were going to try it, I would practice on some extra wood first.

Bob