Need Modular CP ideas

[Paul Olson]

After trying unsuccessfully to add a dedicated 4-way to my current CP, I am thinking of trying my original idea of making a modular CP (Of course, I decided this after I started selling off my extra parts  ).  I would like something similar to Doc's modular panel, but I want to do it in metal.  I would appreciate any feedback and advice you can provide.  I have added a (very) rough sketch of what I have in mind.  This is the best way I could see to have a flat panel.  If anyone knows about metal working, please let me know if this is something that can be done fairly cheap.  I don't know if the bends would cost to much to be worth it.

I haven't come up with a way to lock the bottom of the panel yet.  Whatever is used to lock it down needs to be able to clear a wheel/yoke panel. (See pic, it might be easier to modify the panel design to accomodate a hinged cover that will close over the ends of the panels.

Thanks in advance for in suggestions you have,
Paul

[NoOne=NBA=]

Can you post pics of your current CP area--preferably inside and out?
That will help with the suggestions.

My first instinct if you hadn't built anything yet would be to let you CP overhang the front, but not put a bottom on the overhanging area.
That would let you use panel clamps on the inside of the front wall of the CP box, to hold down the front of the modules.
I'm guessing your current CP has a bottom in that area, as did mine, so that's probably out as an idea, at this point.
I thought about taking my saw-all and removing that are, but rejected the idea because I like the blue light there, that lights my coin door.

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As far as what's been done already, Doc and I both used bolt through the top for ours.
Some people are set on hidden hardware methods, and have opted for other methods.
I know one person used dowels and cabinet catches, but I can't remember who.

I have a few ideas based on your drawings, but will need to see the actual cab before presenting them.

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As far as other tips go, Cat 5 run to jacks at the back of the control box seems to be the best method so far for connecting everything.
This will let you have ONE mouse hack (two if you want dual trackballs, or more than two spinners), and ONE keyboard encoder, that stay in the cab at all times.
That way you just have to plug the module into the appropriate jack and go.

[Paul Olson]

I will be doing a completely new CP.  My current one uses the original box from a 4 player cab.   I like the width of it, but I would like to have a longer control panel , the inside of the box only leaves 9".  I think that would be more cramped than I would like.  In my sketch, I intended the slot to be at the top of the CP, then figure out a latch for the bottom.  It just seemed like it would be easier to plug in wires that way.

I did another sketch that's a little more accurate.  These are the dimensions I want to try to work with.  The rectangle in the middle would be the modular section of the panel.  I am definately open to opinions on this.  The only 2 dimensions that are mandatory.  The 28 1/2" on top, because that is the width of my cab.  The Height of the box is what is needed to keep the CP at its current height.  The 7 3/4" is the box + height of the top piece.  The other pic is of the current CP.

Thanks for the help,
Paul

[Samstag]

What a coincidence!

[IMMark]

I too am exploring the Modular CP design...if you haven't already seen this design it is worth a look.
Hope that is helps...and please post any new ideas you come up with.
Thanks

[NoOne=NBA=]

PColson,

Given the sheer SIZE of your CP, have you concidered going with a "semi"-modular system?
From the sounds of it, you are relatively happy with your existing CP, but would like to add a few controls that you don't currently have room for, correct?

My idea would be to make the center 1/3 of your CP removable, and leave the joystick/button setups on the outer spots.
This would allow you to drop a trackball, spinner/Tron Stick/Double Tron Stick/Driving wheel/etc.... into that center slot, while keeping the existing stick/button setups available for use.

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The idea I had for securing the front based on your existing design was very similar in operation to the one posted by Samstag.

[Paul Olson]

@samstag   Wow!  It's cool to see a model that is so close to the one in my head.    On that design, what are you planning to do for start and admin buttons?  I was thinking of a non modular strip on the top for those.  Please keep this thread updated with what you are doing, this is exactly what I was looking for.

@NoOne=NBA=   I was thinking about a partially modular panel for a while.  I decided that if I am going to do the work, I wanted as much flexibility as possible.  I want the option of a 2 player driving panel.  I was thinking of making this smaller than my current panel, but it is perfect for 2 player.  Most of the people playing my cab are full size adults (some of us are more than full size ), and this size panel gives plenty of room.

Paul

[Samstag]

@samstag

[IMMark]

I too am exploring the Modular CP design...if you haven't already seen this design it is worth a look.
Hope that is helps...and please post any new ideas you come up with.
Thanks

Oops...
Kind of forgot the most important part ...the link

http://www.beersmith.com/mame/index.htm

That's better....anyway, check it out if you haven't already seen it...might give you some ideas

[Paul Olson]

@IMMark  Doc's panel is the inspiration for this project.  When I first saw that site, I knew I would needa modular panel.  I built my current CP as a temporary, but I ended up using it for about a year. 

Paul

[Trimoor]

There is a cheaper way.  You can avoid everything but straight cuts in the metal, which you can do yourself.

Instead of bending metal for the locking tabs on the removable part (pink part), glue another scrap of metal underneath.  Epoxy will hold it just as if it were solid.

You don't even need a tab for the top edge. (the one next to the monitor)  Cut the dark grey piece out of oak, and have the entire edge of the panel fit into it.

[Samstag]

Here's more of a "final" pic that shows a likely arrangement of controls and includes the keyboard drawer underneath:


I'll try to put something together that illustrates the hinge locking mechanism by next weekend.

[Paul Olson]

@Samstag   Besides the weight, is there any advantages to using aluminum over steel?  If not, I think I will opt for steel because of the cost.  I am looking forward to seeing the locking mechanism you are planning, I'm not sure how that is going to work.

How thick are your aluminum panels?  Also, how thick would they need to be if steel is used?

@Trimoor  Cheaper is always good!  Thanks for the suggestion.

Paul

[GGKoul]

PColson,

Given the sheer SIZE of your CP, have you concidered going with a "semi"-modular system?
From the sounds of it, you are relatively happy with your existing CP, but would like to add a few controls that you don't currently have room for, correct?

My idea would be to make the center 1/3 of your CP removable, and leave the joystick/button setups on the outer spots.
This would allow you to drop a trackball, spinner/Tron Stick/Double Tron Stick/Driving wheel/etc.... into that center slot, while keeping the existing stick/button setups available for use.

Thats what I'm doing.  Leaving the Trackball in the middle and adding P1 & P2 modules on either side of the trackball.

[Samstag]

@Samstag

[Trimoor]

I used 1/16" aluminum for my panel, and it's plenty strong.  I'd say use 1/16" steel or thinner.  Thinner is much easier to work with, and I really doubt you need it to be bulletproof.

If you can, buy it locally.  Check the phonebook.
Don't forget about scrounging.  Washing machines, refrigerators, and even computer cases are a great source of sheet metal.  Visit your local junkyard today. (or just take a drive around town on trash day.)

I don't see what there is in the way of milling.  Straight cuts as far as I can tell.

[Paul Olson]

I plan on making steering panels that hang over the edge of the CP.  How thick would I need the steel to be to keep it from bending under pressure.  Would 1/16 be thick enough, or would it be safer to go with 1/8?

I would definately consider a wood box.  That would probably save quite a bit of money.

Thanks, Paul

[Samstag]

I think your best bet for determining the thickness you need is to find some 1/16" steel and put together a test panel.

[Paul Olson]

The panels will only be 12".  The 16" is the complete dimension of the control panel to make it look like the one on there now.  It is actually 14" now, and I think I will go back to that for this design, I can live without the trim on the bottom and sides.  I think I will make the swappable area 12" x 36", and go with your idea of a strip for start buttons. I will still need the trim on the top of the cp so it will mate to the cab right.

Paul

[telengard]

I plan on making steering panels that hang over the edge of the CP.  How thick would I need the steel to be to keep it from bending under pressure.  Would 1/16 be thick enough, or would it be safer to go with 1/8?

I would definately consider a wood box.  That would probably save quite a bit of money.

Thanks, Paul

I originally had 1/16" steel panels and they are a pain to cut through if you are using hole saws.  My new modular setup uses 1/8" aluminum which is much easier to cut and is plenty sturdy.  If you do end up going w/ steel 1/16" is plenty thick.  My entire panel was that thickness and it was sturdy.

[Samstag]

Here's a preliminary drawing of the locking mechanism I'm going to use:


The upper (blue) and lower (green) support bearings will be mounted to the nonmoving lower part of the front panel.

[Paul Olson]

I won't have a keyboard drawer on mine.  I use remote desktop for all my config work.  And, I need all the space I can get in the box.  My analog joystick is over 7" under the panel.  I think I understand your locking pin... I think  .  I'm not all that good at some of this stuff.  If it ends up working the way you want, please make extras.

Do you have any idea what the cost difference would be between 1/16" steel and 1/8" aluminum?

Thanks, Paul

[Samstag]

I won't have a keyboard drawer on mine.

[Kremmit]

Samstag-

Your drawing is pretty close to what I've been tossing around, although I was going to work in wood.  I'm planning on using a fold-up front lip to hold my modules in, too, and was wondering what to do for a locking mechanism. 

If you make extras of those locking pins, I'd take some.  In fact, if you want to make a bunch, I'll bet others could use 'em too.  I can see myself wanting 6 of them in the near future.

[Samstag]

I don't have a CNC setup, so I won't be cranking out a bunch, but I would be willing to do a few here and there by request.  The upside to that is it's not really any extra work to change the length if you need them a little longer.

[Lilwolf]

Samstag...

Couldn't you get the front plate to just slide down in tracks?  (ie, have the sides come forward with a little track in it.

So you slide up the front panel... Then slide forward and pop out each module?

Seems like a good solution that wouldn't require any knobs components.

[Samstag]

I was thinking about doing something like that, but decided against it because I didn't think it'd be a good idea to make the front completely removeable.  I think over time you'll have more wear and tear on the front and anything it comes into contact with when people put it on top of the control panel.

And anyway, the lock pins are actually one of the easiest parts of the project.  I'll probably spend less time machining one than I did drawing it.