attaching tmolding to badly routed grooves

[big daddy]

My cab came out pretty well except for 1 exception...I had tremendous issues with my routing of the tmolding grooves   

Firstly I waited until it was assembled to route (instead of doing it while it was laying down with easy access).  Second my router bit was originally upside down, which completely dulled the blade by the time I realized it.  To top it off, the router bit was the wrong size (too small).  Instead of doing the smart thing and waiting until a new bit came in that was 1) sharp 2) the correct size...I tried to make due and ended up butchering my grooves.

Anyway, now for parts of my tmolding, the grove is too large for the tmolding so it doesn't hold.  Since the cab and monitor etc is already mounted, and in place in my house...I can't just fill with putty or similar and re-route.

So is there a decent alternative to keeping my tmolding attached?  I tried wood glue, but it didn't seem to hold the tmolding down.  My father suggested some black trimming nails, but I can't imagine how that would look good.  Anyone have any other suggestions?

[gobuchul74]

I think an epoxy or something like Liquid Nails might be better than wood glue.  I'd try caulking the groove with liquid nails, then clamping the t-molding down until the glue set.  You might only be able to do a foot or so at a time, but I'd bet that would work.

[brained]

Get yourself a Glue Gun and a couple of glue sticks, that thing worked for me and It holds pretty fast!! and if you make a mistake you can simply remove the glue from the wood without much strain. Some guy told me that there are glue sticks for wood, but I've used conventional ones and it worked fine.

Good luck with your project... post them pics 

[Jabba]

Something else you could try if the glue doesn't hold is cut some small cardboard strips to fit in the hole beside the groove to snug it up. I've never done this but should work out.

[SteveJ34]

I second the suggestion for a glue gun. I have taken this approach in previous projects as fix and it has held fine.

[The Jerk]

I'm having this issue in small spots.  I've got a glue gun that I havent even used yet.  Now I have a reason 2. 
Also I think the fact that I havent used it yet is probably a good sign.

[SirPeale]

I agree - glue gun.  Had a similar issue, worked a treat.

[KrawDaddy]

use gorilla glue.  It exspands as it cures to completly fill your groove.  It is also easy to remove but holds well.  It is kicked off with a mist spray of water.  Then use a few clamps until it dries.

[SirPeale]

use gorilla glue.

[paigeoliver]

In the past I have also just installed black t-molding and then nailed it in with some thin nails (and colored those black with a sharpie).

[krick]

Just a warning... nails on the edge of MDF are not a good idea.

[cbmeeks]

I've haven't had good luck with hot-glue and t-molding.

My telescope base is a wooden circle with t-molding around the base.  It started coming off and I hot-glued it...didn't work too well.

but maybe I just had some cheap glue.

cb

[The Jerk]

I recently used the hot glue method on my cab because of two bad spots.  Seemed to work quite well.

[cholin]

Depends how big the gap is though.  You could go with bigger T-molding, or do the good old hot-glue as many people suggested.  An alternative would be to fill the slot with glue and cut off the T part of the T-molding so that its just a semi circle, then glue or nail that in.  Stick with the glue though, and because you messed up, dont go for cheap stuff.  Buy something thats proven to work.

[solfood]

I did the same thing.  Hot glue totally worked.

I like to think of this first project as my beginners course in woodworking/computer building/software configuration.  There are SO many things I'll do differently next time.  And to everyone else that has never done this that sees and plays with the cabinet "Man, this thing is PERFECT...It looks JUST like the one in the arcade....Can I buy one of these??"

[solfood]

I'm actually relieved that someone else used a Sharpie at some point in their cabinets construction...

[the3eyedblindman]

When my blade got dull, it made a few parts of my slot too thick, so what I did was used a high strength adhesive, applied it to the molding, layed it in, and then just used scotch tape to hold it together while it dryed. After a day or so just peel the tape off, worked like a charm.

[NoOne=NBA=]

I had a couple spots that I used foam tape on, and banged that into the slot with the molding, and a few inside curves that I used epoxy on.

Both methods worked really well, but I wouldn't want to take it apart, and see if I could get it back together again.

[mahuti]

There's one product that works amazing for this kind of stuff. It's a thin metal mesh with pretty sharp teeth. It's specifically made to help insert something into a stripped hole. You put the mesh in, then shove in your t-molding in, and it won't wan't to let go. It only comes in packs of small strips (about 1" by 4") It's easily cut to suit.

[Knievel]

I've never tried this but I think an easy solution would be to run tape over the spine of the t-mold and then hammer it in. Fold it over each side equally if you get my drift.
I think electrical tape would work best as it's somewhat rubbery and would probably provide some grip.
This would widen the spine and make up for a t-mold groove that's too big. If it works the advantages would be - no mess/cheap/easy/you could easily remove it in the future.