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Author Topic: Spraypaint!  (Read 3888 times)

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CD_Vision

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Spraypaint!
« on: September 23, 2002, 01:35:39 pm »
Ok. So I need some help here. I went down to the Home Depot and bought myself some "Painter's Touch" glossy black spraypaint. I'm just building myself a stand-alone control panel, and I wanted to get a really glossy surface.

I'm using regular particle board, that I sanded and primed, then did a wetsand on that as well, so it's nice n smooth. I put on two nice coats of this spraypaint, let it dry for a day, and it looked great!

.....until I touched it! This stuff smudges like you wouldn't believe, and I can gouge it using just my fingernail! What the heck should I have used instead? I like this nice glossy look, but I obviously need a harder finish. What should I do?
Also, if you suggest a product, please try to use the brand name, and where you bought it, if you can, so I can see what I'm looking for easily.

SNAAAKE

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Re:Spraypaint!
« Reply #1 on: September 23, 2002, 01:54:54 pm »
MDF MDF  :P

How could you even paint particle board man?

Use mdf and you be fine.

Minwah

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Re:Spraypaint!
« Reply #2 on: September 23, 2002, 02:13:41 pm »
How long did you leave the paint to set?  Some of those sprays take an age to harden up - maybe it never will.  Try putting it in your airing cupboard for a while.  BTW how thick did you spray on?  I guess a thin coat is best for this.

MameFan

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Re:Spraypaint!
« Reply #3 on: September 23, 2002, 02:44:02 pm »
Tip #3, #6/#7 and #9 are the most important I found:


Here are some basic spray painting tips I've learned over this summer refurbishing some cabinets, as well as some coin doors.

1) Spray FLAT.  Spraying vertical will lead to runs more easily.

2) Spray with NO wind. With wind, will tend to make you go over the same spot too much, thus causing runs.

3) Start spraying OFF of one side, spraying through and OFF the other side, then move back to the other side BEFORE pressing down again.  (e.g. like a good golf swing). Do NOT stop and turn around back and forth. That will cause the left and right edges to have over twice as much paint as the rest, thus causing puddling and therefore runs.

4) Sand, Sand Sand.  Start coarse, then medium, then fine, then extra fine.  Foam sanding blocks work great.

5) Prime with a good ahearing primer.   Sand fine afterwards otherwise the "grain" of the primer will show thru the final coat, especially on metal.

6) Rather than trying to build up tons of coats with a satin or semi-gloss or gloss spray (seim and gloss tend to be VERY easy to cause runs due to their higher amounts of polyurathane like gloss base in them), start out your base with ULTRA-FLAT (if available) or FLAT colors.  Black and white are typically the only colors with tons of levels of paint selection.  I find that I can't even MAKE "Krylon Ultra-Flat Black" run, no matter what I do!    Therefore use a flat paint to build up 2 or 3 coats, and then and only then, top off the last coat with your final appearance of either Semi-Flat, Satin, Semi-Gloss  or Gloss.

7) (see #6) - Dont ever put more than 2 coats of Semi-Gloss or Gloss on... You WILL cause runs if you keep painting with them. Sanding between may help.

8) (Specifically adressing the question of this post).. You MUST let your paint dry at least 48 hours between coats, otherwise it will be gummy and run and additional coats will make it take that much longer to dry.  Paint cans usually state that you must apply a second coat within 1 hour or after 48 hours. Not following this will cause the problems you stated.

9) BAKE BAKE BAKE.   After the surface is dry to the touch (normally 45 minutes to 2 hours, depends on the paint--read the can) take your items out in the HOT afternoon sun and bake them.  Even if it's 50 degrees (F) out, the ultraviolet rays will help dry the paint out faster and thoroughly..  a 90 degree day will bake it very very nicely, espcially if it's black paint.

10) Allot yourself a good 5 days from start to finish to get a good paint seal before you even consider moving an item into "use".  I usually sand/flat paint 2 coats/bake for 2 days, then final coat(s), bake another 2-4 days before I bring in the house to use.  Anything less and you're asking for problems like you described.

11) Don't paint if the relative humidity is over 50%.. You're only asking for problems.

12) Allow your can of paint AND item (especially if metal) to sit in the environment where it's going to be painted in.  If you bring the paint and item out of a 70 degree air conditioned house into a 90 degree humid garage, you will get very very interesting results... Antique "crackle-ing" is one as the water forms on the metal between it and the paint.. Nice effect if you want it, but most of the time you dont!!!

13) Always use new nozzles. If after you've put away a can of paint after using, then got out again after a few weeks, and it just doesn't seem to be spraying "right" (e.g. droplets that won't smooth out is the worst) then swap the top with a new one from another can..  If you're going through 4 or 5 cans in a day, swap it from the first to the second to the third as you use them up, as long as it's still spraying right, "saving" the extra tops for future use if you have to use a can that has one that is plugged later.



This is stuff I learned or simply assumed and it helped me do much better painting on stuff this summer after messing up a few, I got better by the end.

Hope this helps.

MameFan

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Re:Spraypaint!
« Reply #4 on: September 23, 2002, 02:55:34 pm »
By the way. the multi-layer coating of 3 layers of ultra-flat black followed by 2 layers of semi-gloss (or gloss--for cocktails), baking EACH layer for 2 days in the hot sun between coats makes for VERY VERY durable metal control panels.  Between each coat I took a very fine sanding block and slightly scuffed up the previous coat as well.  The end result looked very nice and should be quite resistant to scratching all the way through.

And one final tip: Don't use a metalic or metalic-like paint, such as Gold/Silver/Bronze/Aluminum, then attempt to top-coat it with a clear acrylic paint.... The top clear-coat will eat thru the special way the metallic paints work and cause a disaster to appear.  There must be ways to protect it, but it definitely isn't with clear paint.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2002, 02:57:59 pm by MameFan »

CthulhuLuke

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Re:Spraypaint!
« Reply #5 on: September 23, 2002, 05:46:14 pm »
Ok, I just very recently got done painting the overlay on my control panel, and this is a big hint if you want it glossy with no smudges/rub off paint on your fingers.  Buy yourself a spraypaint bottle of Polyurethane, and apply a nice smooth layer of that onto your control panel, let it dry for a good 3 or 4 days in the sun/heat/hot places, and feel the results.  Glossy smooth, solid paint, hard to scratch, good stuff.  And polyurethane is decently cheap and easy to find, so good luck!
    -CthulhuLuke

mhoward211

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Re:Spraypaint!
« Reply #6 on: September 23, 2002, 06:27:49 pm »
Another thing you could try is the clear casting resin (I forget the brand name) that you can buy at hobbies stores like Michaels.  It's a two part mix that dries thick, hard, and VERY glossy.  It smells great too when using it!    ;D

mw

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Re:Spraypaint!
« Reply #7 on: September 23, 2002, 08:37:08 pm »
I used the brush on 'Painter's Touch' on particle board, took a day to dry and two coats but it's durable. I used semi-gloss though as I wasn't going to get a glossy finish on the particle board.

Maybe it isn't sticking to the primer you used ???

Yarb

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Re:Spraypaint!
« Reply #8 on: September 23, 2002, 09:01:46 pm »
I strongly recommend Krylon paint, I've had some bad experiences with other brands but it always seems to work well. Also spray a very thin first layer and wait a minute or two for it to "Flash over" once it looks dry then spray a full coat, this seems to make the paint adhere much better

Yarb

CD_Vision

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Re:Spraypaint!
« Reply #9 on: September 25, 2002, 01:52:54 am »
What I'm going to try is another wetsand, followed by two coats of this stuff again, then drying for two days followed by a couple coats of high-gloss polyeurothane clear coat brushed on. If that doesn't do the trick I'll probably just give up. It seems to be the paint is the problem, more than anything else. I think the poly should make the difference. From here on out I'll probably just use a flat latex with a clear coat.

SNAAAKE

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Re:Spraypaint!
« Reply #10 on: September 25, 2002, 02:39:32 am »
Its not the paint,its the crappy wood you are using.That wood is not for paint.

Also,you cant use polyeurothane on particle board man...i am telling ya. :)

Polyeurothane is good for either ply wood or oak.

MameFan

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Re:Spraypaint!
« Reply #11 on: September 25, 2002, 11:50:44 am »
Latex paint is for house walls and ceilings.  It adhears to paper (e.g. sheetrock) easily.

However latex is VERY easy to peel, with only a little bit of water on it.

I would NEVER consider painting a cabinet with latex paint.   Only use oil-based paints... If you're paint is soft and peeling, that's why you're having problems!

Latex is rubber... therefore it's always soft. Oil forms a much more rigid seal once it dries.

CD_Vision

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Re:Spraypaint!
« Reply #12 on: September 25, 2002, 12:28:47 pm »

Its not the paint,its the crappy wood you are using.That wood is not for paint.

Also,you cant use polyeurothane on particle board man...i am telling ya. :)

Polyeurothane is good for either ply wood or oak.


No, I don't think it's the wood. It can't be, since it's under about 5 various coats of garbage at this point. I've got a very smooth surface right now because of all the sanding I did. Plus, it's primered, too. I'm not going to put poly directly onto the wood, but onto the paint instead. I think then I'll see some pleasant results.

ErikRuud

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Re:Spraypaint!
« Reply #13 on: September 25, 2002, 01:06:06 pm »
I will agree that particle board is not the best construction material around, but it doe have it's uses and particle board is paintable.  I have done it and gotten good results, that still look good 12 years later.  I am probably going to use some particle board for part of the base of my cabinet because I have some sitting in the back of my garage.

Polyurethane works well on almost any wood product, not just plywood or oak.  Some of the really exotic hardwoods might be a probledm due to the oil in them.  My control panel is made from cherry with five coats of polyurethane. It looks fantastic.

Thin coats, and proper drying between are the two most important keys to success with almost any type of finish.

Of cousre I'm not sure about polyeurothane!  ???

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