modular controls... sort of

[shadowdrak]

I had an idea I was thinking about integrating into my (endlessly )upcoming cab.  I was gonna build a 2 player panel for my main use panel; But I was thinking for 4 player games I could make small panels to attach to the sides.  I was thinking the small controls could be just a stick and four buttons, and it would attach to the side with dowels and a usb socket.  Has anyone done something like this before?  I figured it might be a little bit more attractive than the usual modular controls.  A cheap keyboard hack should be sufficient right?  Do you think that mounting it as described would be sufficiently sturdy(I was thinking 2-4 of em maybe)?  Feel free to be brutal with this idea.  I would rather be bashed than tack something ---smurfy--- onto my cab.

[AmericanDemon]

You'd do best to have it interfaced w/ molex connectors.  This is similar in principle to my forthcoming design.   The reason I say use molex is because:

1)  If you use a keyboard hack for each player 3 and 4.  Then you are looking at getting  3 keyboards to work on 1 system.

2)  USB can be finicky.  You never know which one will end up being player 3 or 4.  This is of course different if you do sidewinder hacks and chain those two together.  However for that to work I believe those go through a joystick port.

If you use an IPac4 and wire everything to molex connectors then it will be as simple as plugging it it and attaching and you are ready to rock.

[telengard]

You'd do best to have it interfaced w/ molex connectors.  This is similar in principle to my forthcoming design.   The reason I say use molex is because:

1)  If you use a keyboard hack for each player 3 and 4.  Then you are looking at getting  3 keyboards to work on 1 system.

2)  USB can be finicky.  You never know which one will end up being player 3 or 4.  This is of course different if you do sidewinder hacks and chain those two together.  However for that to work I believe those go through a joystick port.

If you use an IPac4 and wire everything to molex connectors then it will be as simple as plugging it it and attaching and you are ready to rock.

I used to have all of my modular panels connect w/ molex.  They do work well but the problem is you need 3 hands when swapping modules.  1 to hold the module and one hand each to pull on both molex connectors.  I switched to using std ethernet jacks and it is much easier IMO.

~telengard

[AmericanDemon]

My only concern is for the lack of size in CAT5 wiring.  Also you only have 8 wires.  He would need two use at least two fittings for each side.  However, you are correct in your thoughts on the difficulty of connecting molex at times.

[Darkstalker]

My only concern is for the lack of size in CAT5 wiring.  Also you only have 8 wires.  He would need two use at least two fittings for each side.  However, you are correct in your thoughts on the difficulty of connecting molex at times.

4 directions, three buttons and a ground.  You don't need much else for P3 and P4 if you put the start buttons on the cabinet.

[NoOne=NBA=]

My only concern is for the lack of size in CAT5 wiring.  Also you only have 8 wires.  He would need two use at least two fittings for each side.  However, you are correct in your thoughts on the difficulty of connecting molex at times.

I've been using 28 gauge wire for ALL my control panels for years now, and never had a problem with it.
8 wires works great for modules.
A top-fire joystick, with TWO thumb buttons + ground, uses exactly 8 wires, and a 7-button layout uses a maximum of 8 if you don't wire a common connection for the 7th button.

I used 9-pin connectors on my swappable panels at first, and found they were a huge pain, for the reasons described above.
When I decided to go modular, I also swapped out to the RF-45 jacks.

[AmericanDemon]

Well guys, I know I didnt start this thread but you have made me want to try using Cat5 for my project.  I already have all of the crimpers and such.  Also colored rj45 jacks are available.  Which would make things easy for the eye.  

:: AmericanDemon looks over at the still closed Molex packages and wonders if he can still return them.  ::

[Crazy Cooter]

If it were me, I'd go with the ipac4, cat5 connections and a metal clip on the side of the cab.  The panels would have a hook that would slide down into the clip.

Plug in (x2), drop in.  Lift out, unplug (x2).

[shadowdrak]

Thanks for the response people; This is exactly the reason I post here.  The RJ45 is a good idea; hadn't thought of it.  I am not quite certain how to secure it to the rest of the CP.  Which type of clips are you suggesting exactly?  Whatever mechanism, it would be nice for it to be flush.  I remember seeing a piece of 2x4 cut at a bias one time to mount something maybe that would work.  I guess I will figure something out  .

[telengard]

Thanks for the response people; This is exactly the reason I post here.  The RJ45 is a good idea; hadn't thought of it.  I am not quite certain how to secure it to the rest of the CP.  Which type of clips are you suggesting exactly?  Whatever mechanism, it would be nice for it to be flush.  I remember seeing a piece of 2x4 cut at a bias one time to mount something maybe that would work.  I guess I will figure something out  .

What I did was bought a punch panel and then bought what are called "keystone jacks".  This sat inside the cabinet under the control panel.  When I want to change a module I just unscrew it, unplug the RJ45 connector from the punch panel, and I'm done.  I'll post some pics if that would help.

~telengard

[danny_galaga]

doc has had some success with modular controls:

http://www.beersmith.com/mame/

and a thread in the hall of fame has some discussion on the connections etc:

http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=20;action=display;threadid=20577

[NoOne=NBA=]

If you are not going to use the P-3/P-4 controls much, you might want to consider just putting a USB hub in, and using gamepads for those players.

It's alot less work, and will give you the same functionality.
Several people here have opted for that route, with good success.

[Doc-]

I like the idea of building wings for players 3 and 4!  I agree that CAT5 is the way to go if you want them quickly removable.

I currently use USB gamepads for players 3/4, but it would be cool to have detachable wings.  Not sure if it is practical on my existing design due to the artwork and pinball buttons, but it is an interesting idea to toy around with.

Currently I'm working on 360 driving wheel and shifter panels, a defender/stargate button panel, and some two way joysticks.

Cheers!
Doc-

[NoOne=NBA=]

And be sure to use STRANDED Cat-5 cable, NOT solid core.

The stranded Cat-5 can take more twisting/bending/etc... without snapping off any wires inside the cable.