my first... "comment on my CP layout" - 80% complete!

[MoonDog]

I'm close to completing my prototype control panel and am throwing this up for comments before I make the final version (MDF).  These are obviously subjective, but more eyes the better.  I don't play golf games so I'm not too worried about hitting the panel behind.  I also plan on leaving some room above and between player 1 and 2 for a future spinner.

I thought I was going to have room on my panel for a trackball, but since I decided to put buttons on the left of the joystick I lost some space.  I use these a lot so removing them is not really an option.  I would like to go modular at some point, but for now I've opted for a flip up panel for the trackball.  I will have a button on either side of the ball for mouse 1 and 2.  I'm thinking about going with all black for the flip up panel with black buttons and an 8 ball trackball.  That way it will kind of blend in the the rest of the cabinet when it is in the down position.

The other design consideration I had was that I wanted the entire panel to be removeable and be able to drop the original PP control panel into place.

[versapak]

Seems like a decent idea for keeping a trackball as part of the equation, though I doubt you'll be getting any good Golden Tee action goin on that. Dunno if those lil braces could support being GT'd.

[Bgnome]

so how do you plan on supporting the trackball panel?  and you do realize that an 8-ball is 2.25" right?

[MoonDog]

so how do you plan on supporting the trackball panel?  and you do realize that an 8-ball is 2.25" right?

Yeah, my trackball is 2.25.

The panel is supported by folding brass supports similar to those on a card table.  You can see one on the right.  It is actually quite sturdy.  Maybe not sturday enough for serious Golden Tee action, but good enough for most classics.

[Sylentwulf]

I'd worry more about buttons for the trackball? We'll all just have to take your word for the braces being sturdy enough to hold up

[The Man]

This is off topic, but I was wondering if you still had the Power Supply for that cab.  Mine isn't working and I'm having a problem finding a replacement.

If you or anyone could help me out please leave me a message.

Thanks,
TM

[NoOne=NBA=]

I would take a bit more off the sides of the main panel, so that it will fit between the side walls of the cabinet.
That will make the lines on the cabinet flow much better because it will retain the original T-molding down the sides.

You might also consider going modular.
That would let you swap out controls (trackball and steering wheel included), and give a more finished look to the front of the cabinet, especially when using the trackball.

[MoonDog]

I would take a bit more off the sides of the main panel, so that it will fit between the side walls of the cabinet.
That will make the lines on the cabinet flow much better because it will retain the original T-molding down the sides.

I totally agree, but I've been trying to preserve the wood support for the original control panel and unfortunately it extends above the side panels.  I actually ran two stopped dados for the supports to fit into to reduce the gap between the sides and the panel.

I thought about wrapping the CP with new t-molding to help tie it in.  Now that I think about it though, I might be able to cut the wood down a bit without loosing the ability to replace the plastic cp surround.

Phase 1 - MAME the cabinet without maiming it.  Ability to swap in original control panel.
Phase 2 - go totally modular

[MoonDog]

This is off topic, but I was wondering if you still had the Power Supply for that cab.  Mine isn't working and I'm having a problem finding a replacement.

If you or anyone could help me out please leave me a message.

Thanks,
TM

Yes, I still have the main PS.  It did have a pair of newer switched power supplies before I got it and I don't have those.  They were spliced into the harness but I'm not sure what they were running.  Check your PM for my email address.

[Crazy Cooter]

I thought about doing something like that too.  Only i was thinking of using rods underneath for support. Something like you see on a public crapping stall door, but on a bigger scale.

[paigeoliver]

Very interesting concept, although it is entirely unneeded since you  could simply redo the top panel so the trackball goes between the joysticks. I KNOW for a fact it will fit since I am staring at a control panel the exact same width that has a streetfighter layout with a 3" trackball inbetween the positions.

General note to everyone. The trackball itself provides ample room between players, more room is not required. (A 3" trackball with the other player stations right up against the plate still places the players farther apart than basically every classic cab other than Mario Bros).

Also, since you need to make a new top panel anyway, you should put it between the sides and not over them.

Finally to the guy asking about the power supply. If you are talking about the AR II board the just order a rebuild kit from Bob Roberts. I have used them, they rock. Although you should also realize that pole position is the most unreliable game Atari ever made, and your problems probably go way past power supply. The pros generally won't even mess with Pole Positions anymore.

[MoonDog]

Very interesting concept, although it is entirely unneeded since you  could simply redo the top panel so the trackball goes between the joysticks. I KNOW for a fact it will fit since I am staring at a control panel the exact same width that has a streetfighter layout with a 3" trackball inbetween the positions.

Also, since you need to make a new top panel anyway, you should put it between the sides and not over them.

Well, it might fit on top with a streetfighter layout, but I've added extra buttons to the left of the joystick that I don't want to sacrifice.  I actually considered going with a 4 button layout on the right since I'm not big into fighters and I think that would give me the space I needed.   In the end I figured it would probably be best to have all 6 buttons for the games that need them.

I think I will try to make the panel fit between the sides.  See above post as to why it is that way.  I think I can cut down the wood side supports that are part of the original panel and drop it in.  The comments about this are good because it has made me realize it would be a good idea to take some extra time and make it fit.

[Gunstar Hero]

Paige: I have the same cab, with basically the same layout (2 P360s, SF 6 button layout) and I tried for days to get a 2.25 trackball to fit in there... with the mounting plate it was just no good. The mountable space is 22.75 x 11.

I would LOVE to have a trackball, but I could never get the spacing right. If someone can give me a diagram/spacing info hook up I'd love them forever.

[The Man]

Finally to the guy asking about the power supply. If you are talking about the AR II board the just order a rebuild kit from Bob Roberts. I have used them, they rock. Although you should also realize that pole position is the most unreliable game Atari ever made, and your problems probably go way past power supply. The pros generally won't even mess with Pole Positions anymore.

Well it isn't the AR II board; it's the transformer in the bottom on the case actually.  The transformer just keeps clicking and blowing the (I think, I'm at work and don't remember) F4 20 amp fuse.  I've disconnected the monitor and get the same result, so I don't think its monitor related.  I've tried everything suggested on this board and google with no luck.  Just thought I would try replacing the transformer before I part it out.  Really fun game and the kids love it.  It is the heaviest game I have ever had to move, so I was hopping to fix it.

Sorry again for the off topic.
TM

[neuromancer]

That's a great idea! It keeps the main panel clean, and allows the trackball to be used when needed. In fact, you could use the ball to navigate the os without "deploying" it.

I have used those brass supports, and they're OK, but I think I might make an additional wooden support for the middle and use a piano hinge along the joint.

As long as it's working for you no reason to change it though!

I think I'll steal it for mine! I'll probably add a spinner to it too, and maybe a dedicated 4 way off to the side. I'll need to think long and hard about that, and be really, really careful about how high it is!!!

Bob

[MoonDog]

Well, I had some time to do some improvements lately.  My final CP is almost finished.  I was able to cut down the existing CP support wood and drop the panel between the sides and it looks much better.  I can still swap the original pole position control panel and plastic surround in so that makes me happy.  I piano hinged the swing up panel which was part of my original plans I just hadn't picked one up yet.  Unfortunately dropping the panel down changed the dimensions enough to where the brass support brackets no longer fit.  I made some wood supports, but I don't have a good mechanism to get them to fold away yet.  I might look for some shorter brass supports because they allowed the panel to be deployed quickly and easily.  I know some feel they won't be strong enough but they felt really sturdy to me.  Anyway we'll see what I come up with to make it work.

The CP still needs some more paint, art, routing, and other fine tuning but it's a lot closer.   Then its on to other things like monitor bezel, upgrading speakers, tweaking frontend, keyboard shelf behind flip up panel, etc.  

[paigeoliver]

Finally to the guy asking about the power supply. If you are talking about the AR II board the just order a rebuild kit from Bob Roberts. I have used them, they rock. Although you should also realize that pole position is the most unreliable game Atari ever made, and your problems probably go way past power supply. The pros generally won't even mess with Pole Positions anymore.

Well it isn't the AR II board; it's the transformer in the bottom on the case actually.  The transformer just keeps clicking and blowing the (I think, I'm at work and don't remember) F4 20 amp fuse.  I've disconnected the monitor and get the same result, so I don't think its monitor related.  I've tried everything suggested on this board and google with no luck.  Just thought I would try replacing the transformer before I part it out.  Really fun game and the kids love it.  It is the heaviest game I have ever had to move, so I was hopping to fix it.

Sorry again for the off topic.
TM

Pole Position machines are always horked. Not worth restoring unless they are super duper minty fresh. I have now found ONE GUY who fixes the boards. He lives in the UK.

If you REALLY want to repair yours start with another transformer assembly (from another Pole) rebuilt AR II boards, repaired boards from that guy in the UK, then do the power and ground spider mods.

[Gunstar Hero]

That looks pretty smooth dude!

Except for your fold in trackball panel our cabs could be twins!

[paigeoliver]

What exactly are the 2 buttons to the left of each joystick for?

[MoonDog]

What exactly are the 2 buttons to the left of each joystick for?

They are duplicate button 1 and 2 for each player.  One of the problems I had playing arcade games was that I prefer to joystick with my right and fire/jump left.  I'm sure this is a result of too much Atari growing up.  I could see how it would be the opposite for fighters and such but I prefer flying games (1942, etc.) and I always seem to have trouble maneuvering with my left.  I'm thinking about making those along with the trackball buttons black so they blend in more.  Either that or red and yellow so they correspond to 1 and 2 on the right, but I think that looks too cluttered.

[Silver]

Hey I like the flip-up addition to this CP..... Very nice.

In fact its got me thinking - I've got far too many controls to fit on a reasonable CP, and have been considering the whole rotating cp approach but I've got a feeling that the building would be beyond me. Modular doesn't appeal as I hate the idea of replugging stuff to change games.... so I've been trying to think of novel approaches. Yours obviously works for trackballs, and I was thinking of adapting it to maybe side-flaps for players 3+4...

Although I think it ouwl dnot work for a yoke/steering wheel - I am currently considering attaching these onto angle-posied lamp holders so they can be push/pulled out from under the cp... anyone seen anything like this done?