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Author Topic: Auction List  (Read 1483 times)

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vader

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Auction List
« on: October 27, 2004, 01:53:16 pm »
Does anyone know of a roundabout list that would give a ballpark figure on what certain games will sell for ?


Having a auction in Orlando in Mid December and this will be the first one I will be attending.  Just wanted advice on things I should know before going.  I know the rather obvious such as handtruck, truck, blankets and things to safely transport items home, but are their some uknowns I should be prepared for ??

Tim
« Last Edit: October 28, 2004, 05:06:52 pm by vader88 »

SteveJ34

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Re:Auction Advice Needed
« Reply #1 on: October 27, 2004, 02:02:17 pm »
Not sure who is hosting the auction you are planning to attend but at all the Super Auctions I have attended in Mesquite Texas it sometimes helps to bring an extension cord if you want to test some game that is not already powered up.


RayB

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Re:Auction Advice Needed
« Reply #2 on: October 27, 2004, 04:43:15 pm »
Also bring with you a sense of restraint.  ;D
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Re:Auction Advice Needed
« Reply #3 on: October 27, 2004, 04:49:09 pm »
Seeing that it is probably the Super Auction on the 18th, I'd like to offer two major pieces of advice.

A. Don't get your hopes up. Everytime I go to a Super auction, I think I may get a deal, I leave basically empty handed. The quality of what they sell has gone to crap.

B. Beware of flooded stuff. There were quite a few posts of stuff flooded. Someone pointed out that the stuff is toxic to handle. You are in the hurricane area, keep that in mind.
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My games: Tapper, Asteroids, Cocktail-MAME, Tron, ROTJ, Tempest, Star Wars (not working)
My wants: Warlords Cocktail

vader

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Re:Auction Advice Needed
« Reply #4 on: October 27, 2004, 05:10:17 pm »
Thanks for the advice about that, I remember their being a major issue with some flooding and some pinball machines that got destroyed.  I really have my heart set on picking up a Track & Field/ Hypersports or Donkey Kong to restore, possibly a Galaga....not a totally bad deal if I leave empty handed....only a 2 1/2 hr ride wasted and can always hit Universal with the saved money....lmao

Tim

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Re:Auction Advice Needed
« Reply #5 on: October 27, 2004, 06:49:01 pm »
HERE is a thread from about a year ago with some good advice.

vader

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Re:Auction Advice Needed
« Reply #6 on: October 27, 2004, 07:13:06 pm »
Great thread NoOne.....sheaded alot of light on the subject for me....

Tim


paigeoliver

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Re:Auction Advice Needed
« Reply #7 on: October 28, 2004, 04:15:07 am »
A bit more advice.

Forget the first row of games, forget them entirely. You can always tell the first row (regardless of where it actually is numerically) because the first row will be almost all 19" games and MOST of the classics will be there. If you see a bunch of A list classics all next to each other, all at the end of the row, then that is the first row.

Forget that row, prices are highest there.

Ok, goodie. Now that you know that. Time for the real stuff.

The second row is usually where all the 25" and 27" games are. If you are gunning for one of these then by all means get a good look at the monitors in ALL of them. You may or may not be able to stand close when they are auctioned, and big monitors are not cheap to replace.

Spend lots of time looking over machines you are interested in. I like to try to check everything I can on machines I am gunning for. On dead games be sure to try and see if there is a board inside. Look through the coin door, if you can.  I will also jimmmy the machine forward or over to see the condition of the sideart as well.

Learn to keep your mouth shut when needed. Last auction I went to had a Gunfight cabinet that had been converted to lord knows what (dead, dead, dead). It was basically a turd with a 13" monitor mounted vertically in it. I love black and white games so I examined it closely, I peered inside and spotted a puckman board. I made the mistake of mentioning it to another collector. Anyway, by the time that TURD sold it went for over $100. Had I kept my mouth shut I could have probably had the thing for $5 as it was one of the last games sold, and it was dead, painted brown, etc,etc.

Don't go to sleep during the redemption equipment portion of the auction. Especially if you are on a limited budget, but have lots of space. I have seen all sorts of cool redemption games (usually larger ones) in working order sell for less than $25. Wacky Gators, spinny ticket things, stuff like that.

If your scoping the jap slots you are going to want to buy machines that are roughly 2/3rds of the way down the row. The prices on them are usually lowest at this point in the auction. The prices start way high, slowly come down, then spike at the end again as they run out of them.

Dead gambling games make great mame cabinets and they USUALLY have nice working monitors (with burn in of course), and tend to have boardset and power supply problems instead.

Measure all your doorways before going to the auction. Ask me the story about the Dunk Shot cocktail that sat behind my apartment building under a blanket for weeks.

Do a bit of research on problem games BEFORE going to the auction to avoid buying those hard to fix project games.

Print out this list of games. These are suicide battery games. Best to be avoided altogether. Some are repairable, many aren;t. Best to just avoid them completely.

http://www.arcadecollecting.com/dead/dead.html

Just print that whole web page and put it in your pocket, so you can tell right away if it is a suicide battery game or not.

Other problem games. Note, these games either have impossible to find parts, fatal flaws, tend to have acid eaten boards, or are just unreliable.

Pole Position 1 and 2
Berzerk
All laserdisc games
Qix
Zookeeper
Domino Man
Journey
Kozmik Krooz'r
Satan's Hollow
Tron
Two Tigers
Wacko
Solar Quest (unique VECTOR monitor).
Assault (no proper replacement joysticks).
Space Firebird if the shot animations are missing.
Every game ever made by Meadows. They are all black and white and NEVER work. No one on the web seems to have a fully working Meadows game.
Every CHD game in mame. Hard drive based games are also unreliable, as the drives wear out and aren't always easy to replace (some are). I'd just avoid them on principle.

Stuff to look for.

Dead black and white games that are in nice shape. Very nice black and white games that don't power up can often be had for almost nothing. From my experience dead black and white games almost always have working monitors, they usually have a boardset problem. http://www.elektronforge.com/ fixes most black and white game board for around 100 bucks. Might want to print out the list of boards they service and bring it with you.

I will repeat that black and white games almost always have working monitors. To date I have purchased 8 dead black and white games and all 8 of them had working monitors. Note I am talking about raster games here, not vector games like Asteroids.


Finally, team up. Try to locate the other byoac member, or rgvac members, or klov.com members. Stick with them, talk about what you are going for and avoid bidding against each other. It will help each of you get a better deal.
Acceptance of Zen philosophy is marred slightly by the nagging thought that if all things are interconnected, then all things must be in some way involved with Pauly Shore.

paigeoliver

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Re:Auction Advice Needed
« Reply #8 on: October 28, 2004, 04:18:39 am »
Also, if you HAPPEN to be going to the St. Louis auction on the 30th of October keep in mind there are a few rules.

I will be there.

I will be looking for.

Monaco GP mini

Large cabinet with missing monitor.

Anything in a System I cabinet with good sideart.

Any sega Turbo that shows no boardset problems.

Don't bid against me!!!!!
Acceptance of Zen philosophy is marred slightly by the nagging thought that if all things are interconnected, then all things must be in some way involved with Pauly Shore.

vader

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Re:Auction Advice Needed
« Reply #9 on: October 28, 2004, 09:18:21 am »
Don't worry Paige....won't be bidding against you, I'll be at the one in Orland Florida on December 18  ;D    Thanks for the great advice, I know it will be hard to restrain myself from bidding on the first thing up, but I will try.....

Tim


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Re:Auction List
« Reply #10 on: October 28, 2004, 06:29:26 pm »
Anyone know of other places to look for auctions in one's immediate area, besides Superauctions.com (I live in Southwestern Ohio, BTW)?

RayB

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Re:Auction List
« Reply #11 on: October 29, 2004, 09:26:28 am »
Since this thrread is titled "Auction LIST" I thought I'd post that Toronto's Starburst is having an auction TOMORROW, October 30th.

View/test the merchandise at 9:30am. Auction at 11:30.
Bring $200 deposit and bring an electrical cord. Get there early if you plan to SERIOUSLY test machines. It gets too crowded in there with barely room to walk.

The first few games that will be auctioned, in building 2, is the junk row. Great for a cheap MAME cab, but otherwise don't expect much. Typically these cabs won't power up, but it will have a sticker that says something like "no board, monitor OK". Well that's ---That which is odiferous and causeth plants to grow---. The reason there is no board is because the monitor is pooched and they don't want you to know it. (I know this from experience. Luckily we're talking only $50 cdn, but still, I had hoped for a monitor as part of that!)

~Ray B.
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Re:Auction List
« Reply #12 on: October 29, 2004, 09:58:50 am »
I've gone to two auctions and come home empty each time. There really wasn't anything there I wanted bad enough. I was looking for "good deals". Rule of thumb that I kind of used is whats the board worth on ebay. Add $50-70 for a 19" monitor that is working (assuming it's a 19") + any other rare extras and thats what a good deal is (to me anyhow).

Be aware though you might see some of these newer showcase games that are HUGE. Or anything that is HUGE and it won't sell for much of anything. You might think it's a good deal but the reason they don't sell is because they are so big, hard to move, and you need a place to put the thing.

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Re:Auction List
« Reply #13 on: October 29, 2004, 10:34:04 am »
Looks like its going to thundershower tomorrow, maybe that will keep some of the goons away.  Hopefully that Indian Kid dosent show up with his dad and bring the prices up double like he did last time.

Since this thrread is titled "Auction LIST" I thought I'd post that Toronto's Starburst is having an auction TOMORROW, October 30th.

View/test the merchandise at 9:30am. Auction at 11:30.
Bring $200 deposit and bring an electrical cord. Get there early if you plan to SERIOUSLY test machines. It gets too crowded in there with barely room to walk.

The first few games that will be auctioned, in building 2, is the junk row. Great for a cheap MAME cab, but otherwise don't expect much. Typically these cabs won't power up, but it will have a sticker that says something like "no board, monitor OK". Well that's <auto-censored>. The reason there is no board is because the monitor is pooched and they don't want you to know it. (I know this from experience. Luckily we're talking only $50 cdn, but still, I had hoped for a monitor as part of that!)

~Ray B.


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Re:Auction List
« Reply #14 on: October 29, 2004, 10:58:29 am »
Be sure the check the newpaper.  Most of the time auctions will be listed there as well.

paigeoliver

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Re:Auction List
« Reply #15 on: October 29, 2004, 11:18:06 am »
I've actually had some pretty good luck with dead games. I bought my MINTY FRESH (best of the 3 I have owned) Turbo for $45. It had a sign on it that said "no CPU" and that sign was correct. I slapped a board in it and that monkey klaw had the best monitor EVER!

I also bought a dead Hydra that was only dead because someone disconnected the AC from the power supply. Board worked, controls worked, monitor worked (I'd rate the monitor a 6 on a 1-10 scale), etc. The cab was a turd though. I sold the yoke and pedal to a BYOAC member, traded the board for a populated Gorf panel, and I still have the cab and monitor. I'll paint it up and install another game eventually.

First game I ever owned was a $25 Capcom Bowling and it actually played blind. Oddly enough it had somehow found its way over to the first row. It was the second game sold that night.

But, ALWAYS best to meet up with the other BYOAC members and take picks on who is gunning for the $25 and $50 games. Otherwise you will all constantly bid each other up to $50 or even $75 on stuff that might have otherwise gone for $25.
Acceptance of Zen philosophy is marred slightly by the nagging thought that if all things are interconnected, then all things must be in some way involved with Pauly Shore.

paigeoliver

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Re:Auction List
« Reply #16 on: October 29, 2004, 05:30:56 pm »
Last night around midnight I decided that it would be a good idea to bring a game to the auction.

So I started scratchbuilding a cab AT MIDNIGHT.

14.5 hours later I am basically done. I have the cab together, everything is installed, all the controls are interfaced, the software is setup, all the cosmetics are done. All I have left to do is fasten the monitor down and cut a back door.

I would have been done several hours ago but I spent about 2 hours setting up Ultrastyle to look EXACTLY like Ultracade (right down to the exact game selection), only to transfer it to the computer (which I ALSO built last night) for the cab and discover that Ultrastyle didn't like that cabinet. So I switched to Mamewah, and I went ahead and put the rest of the games on there as well.

Cabinet has a 21" flat tube monitor. A 533 mhz comp (windows 98, mamewah, and mame .55). I had originally had some plans on making it a two player cab, but I accidently let the magic smoke out of one of my SJC interfaces. That only left me with one of them, so I did it as a single player cabiner (6 buttons though).

Alas my digital camera is broken, but anyone at the St. Louis auction tommorrow will get to see it. Cabinet is red and marquee says "Multi-Game System". It was gonna say Ultracade, but that whole idea fell through.
Acceptance of Zen philosophy is marred slightly by the nagging thought that if all things are interconnected, then all things must be in some way involved with Pauly Shore.

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Re:Auction List
« Reply #17 on: October 29, 2004, 05:51:58 pm »
Be aware though you might see some of these newer showcase games that are HUGE. Or anything that is HUGE and it won't sell for much of anything. You might think it's a good deal but the reason they don't sell is because they are so big, hard to move, and you need a place to put the thing.

Yes and no. Most of the newer sitdown games still make money and tend to go over $1000. But you're correct about the older big games, they fetch very little money as nobody bids on them.