Author Topic: Clamping box sides together (Read 5587 times)

John IV [MameUI64] · « **on:** September 11, 2002, 12:50:39 pm »

I'm having a heck of a time trying to put together the base of the control panel. Sad but true. I went with interior angle brackets and that didn't work very well. Then I saw this thing:

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/favorites.cfm?&DID=6&sku=10112&cs=1

Which I could presumably use and then do drywall/wood screws from the sides. Looks like this is only available through them, is there something similar in hardware stores?

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #1 on:** September 11, 2002, 01:17:15 pm »

Why would you wanna clamp anything???
Just put the box together as usual.

Drywall screws would break the wood(trust me) if you are trying to add the sides to the panel with drywall screws.

Also are you very limited on hardware locally?
Odering hardware online seems pain in the ass.
i avoid anything ordering online(takes forever damn it).

Also what design is your panel?
if you did not put anything together,then i suggest you make somethin looks similer to original killer instinct control panel.

this design of panel should be fairly easy.and you are trying to make angles too right?

i might not explain right but here goes anyways,

first cut 2 exact same piece for the panel and the bottom(exact same size).

then for the front wood,you cut a smaller piece wood and for the back you cut a bigger piece.

that way you have an angle.after you put together everything,its time for the sides..all you gotta do is cut the angles sides pieces and use VERY THIN tacks.i built several different design and this type came out very good and was easier then any design ever.i might have not explain very well but you get the idea

.

you can also use some putty to cover up the tacks that might show and then paint.or laminate the sides just like mine.

you see one big piece of wood.that one goes in front and you see 2 bigger pieces,they go in the back.

and the angles goes on the side with tacks.

you know why the 2 bigger piece go in the back because i had no more wood left(to add a whole piece in the back).

besides no one would ever see the back of the stick because it will be screwd to the cabinet.

good luck

hyiu · « **Reply #2 on:** September 11, 2002, 01:28:50 pm »

I have no pblm using just L brackets to put the base together.... but those seems like it'll make things easier....
(basically... you got a helping hand holding the pieces in place...) yeah... I guess its worthwhile if you can afford it...

but make sure you drill pilot holes before using drywall screws.... and my experience is using fine thread drywall screws are better..... it'll be easy to crack the wood without pilot holes....

also, I think using corner brackets will also work quite easy...

I bought them in home depot.... but I couldn't find a pic on its web site.... $:-\$ (its made by Stanley)

ok... I cannot find the same thing..... but its something like this.... (shape wise...) imagine... its a L bracket... plus the triangle piece in the bottom with screw holes ready so that you can screw on all 3 sides....

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/findprod.cfm?&DID=6&ObjectGroup_Id=106&filter=corner%20bracket&sku=356

you drill on the bottom piece... once its in place... stand the bottom piece upright and place one side and align and drill it in..... and so on for the 3rd piece....

(or.... you can always use duck tape and tape it up first...) then screw.... ) haaa haaa....

hope it helps...

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #3 on:** September 11, 2002, 01:33:43 pm »

Quote from: hyiu on September 11, 2002, 01:28:50 pm

II bought them in home depot.... but I couldn't find a pic on its web site.... $:-\$ (its made by Stanley)

ok... I cannot find the same thing..... but its something like this.... (shape wise...) imagine... its a L bracket... plus the triangle piece in the bottom with screw holes ready so that you can screw on all 3 sides....

i know what you are talking about..i bought same stuff from home depot.it cost only like $0.26 each.

hyiu · « **Reply #4 on:** September 11, 2002, 01:42:34 pm »

ok... then I got cheated.... cos mine costs more than $0.26.... its like $2+ (for 2 of those + screws...)

haaa haaa haaa.....

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #5 on:** September 11, 2002, 02:23:14 pm »

life is not fair damn it..
mine were plastic with nothing..just bare..no screws included.

hyiu · « **Reply #6 on:** September 11, 2002, 02:30:54 pm »

so... we're talking about just similar stuffs.... ok... I see....

-----------------

anyway.... sorry for off topic here.... snaaake.... remember that gutted cab that I bought from you ??.... its coming together.... finally.....
I think I'll post pics in a wk or 2.....

spend too much time playing with my existing sticks....
affecting my progress... haaa haa haa.....

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #7 on:** September 11, 2002, 02:44:58 pm »

i understand your situation man..
its too hard not to play and complete the thing..i am still in shock that my cab is almost finish and i am still playing and testing it out....who knows..i might finish one day..hee..

SORRY...very very off topic..

SirPoonga · « **Reply #8 on:** September 11, 2002, 06:16:48 pm »

Quote from: SNAAAKE on September 11, 2002, 01:17:15 pm

Why would you wanna clamp anything???
Just put the box together as usual.

SNAAAKE... you really have to think before you type. He is having a problem putting "the box together as usual".

John IV:
I just uses 1x1 pine braces
http://free.hostdepartment.com/SirPoonga/images/y_con11.jpg
http://free.hostdepartment.com/SirPoonga/images/y_con10.jpg

Since the MDF was pretty even for thickness, I just marked 3/4" in and screwwed the pine board in, then put in the side. On the outside if there was an gap or anything just a combinet of wood putty and snading clear that up quickly.

slug54 · « **Reply #9 on:** September 11, 2002, 06:22:43 pm »

John
Rockler does have retail stores in about 25 cities. I'm lucky enough to have a rockler about 10 miles from my house.They have come in handy for several things on this project. Check the retail store locations link from their website.

Those clamping squares will make it easier to get it squared up and clamped.
If you don't use the clamping squares you'll need a square and several clamps preferably bar type. If your not a wood worker you may want to glue and screw it .if you glue it first and clamp it you'll have a few minutes to re-check it with your square and make any final final adjustments before pre-drilling and screwing it.

Good luck
Slug54

John IV [MameUI64] · « **Reply #10 on:** September 11, 2002, 07:56:53 pm »

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I did find something on my journey to Home Depot today, they have something called a 90 degree angle clamp which does it all in one fell swoop for me.

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/prodmeta/pg_prodmeta.jsp?CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY
=Products_1%2fTools_5332%2fHand+Tools_3975%2fClamps_2565&BV_SessionID=
@@@@0628420309.1031788363
@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccjadcgejhkmhgcgelceffdfgidgkj.0&MID=
44&ProductOID=14299

Also picked up one of those bar clamps [like a quick clamp]
Slug54 suggested. I'm going to wood glue it then use 7 x1 1/4" self drilling countersinking carpentry screws.

Sasquatch! · « **Reply #11 on:** September 11, 2002, 11:10:11 pm »

SNAAAKE,

Just so you know, image leeching (putting up pictures from websites that aren't yours) is considered to be pretty bad manners.

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #12 on:** September 11, 2002, 11:21:18 pm »

Quote from: Sasquatch! on September 11, 2002, 11:10:11 pm

SNAAAKE,

Just so you know, image leeching (putting up pictures from websites that aren't yours) is considered to be pretty bad manners.

you wanna explain that?

the first picture is from hotrod cabinet.

i choose that design to do my panel after and the second pictures is ALL MINE.

now where do you see the SO CALLED "LEECHIN"?

i was trying to give john a clue about the panel..so he might wanna try to built that hanaho style panel.

SirPoonga · « **Reply #13 on:** September 12, 2002, 12:26:16 am »

Quote from: Sasquatch! on September 11, 2002, 11:10:11 pm

SNAAAKE,

Just so you know, image leeching (putting up pictures from websites that aren't yours) is considered to be pretty bad manners.

Actually, I've been told in an HTMl class this it save server space if you can link to someone elses stuff, so.....

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #14 on:** September 12, 2002, 01:07:29 am »

your class do make sense..next time around..i wont even bother

John IV [MameUI64] · « **Reply #15 on:** September 12, 2002, 03:26:31 am »

D'oh. Setback. Had not counted on the microswitches on the bottom of the joysticks extending farther than their plastic housing, so my CP will now not fit in the box.

Since I have the joysticks flush up against the 3/4 edges of the box. Ah well, easier to build another base than the CP at this point.. probably use 1/2" wood this time for clearance.

Pix and progress here btw:
http://www.classicgaming.com/mame32qa/controller/controller.htm

rampy · « **Reply #16 on:** September 12, 2002, 08:54:05 am »

Quote

SNAAAKE,

Just so you know, image leeching (putting up pictures from websites that aren't yours) is considered to be pretty bad manners.

Actually, I've been told in an HTMl class this it save server space if you can link to someone elses stuff, so.....

Quote from: SNAAAKE on September 12, 2002, 01:07:29 am

your class do make sense..next time around..i wont even bother

Well of course it will save space =) but it is generally considered impolite. It's analogous (if you pay for public water and not a well) to your next door neighboor running a hose from your outside spigot into their house and filling their hottub, taking baths, etc, washing their car... You're borrowing their water ... ok that analogy sucks... Here's an example of what happens when (http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2050970860)you link to pictures from your auction that aren't yours... (it's in german but you'll get the idea...)

It's not a good practice... because people do that is why for example people set up their servers so that you get a "Forbidden page" when you link to an image where the reffering page isn't the hosted site ( e.g. http://free.hostdepartment.com/SirPoonga/images/y_con11.jpg)

It's probably not a big deal (double standard alert) to link to pictures from a large company, but I wouldn't leech some other guys site...

*shrug* although that shouldn't discourage you, Snaaaake from posting images that are helpful... but (even though it's not the case this time) maybe download the image first and put it on your server is the best practice....

Just a thought... what the hell do I know anyways?

rampy

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #17 on:** September 12, 2002, 01:48:17 pm »

CAN WE DROP IT ALREADY

i never downloaded no picture...i had that hanaho link so i just added that...besides they never said "you cant put our pic in a site where you are trying to help someone on the panel design".

if they said such thing then i would never do.

also,where i hosted the image..its all my server space.so i am loosing bandwidth here.

SirPoonga · « **Reply #18 on:** September 12, 2002, 02:35:59 pm »

Quote from: rampy on September 12, 2002, 08:54:05 am

It's not a good practice... because people do that is why for example people set up their servers so that you get a "Forbidden page" when you link to an image where the reffering page isn't the hosted site ( e.g. http://free.hostdepartment.com/SirPoonga/images/y_con11.jpg)

It's probably not a big deal (double standard alert) to link to pictures from a large company, but I wouldn't leech some other guys site...

Double standard. That's my site! It works for me. I've heard this form a few other people too. Hmmm. Try copying and pasting the the link instead of clicking on it, that seems to be how to get around it.

hyiu · « **Reply #19 on:** September 12, 2002, 02:44:17 pm »

well.... it seems like that's the case if you point to a file directly... I have an account in geocities... (free one... of course...) if I want to point to a direct pic... it will fail...

but if I cut and paste it to the directory first, then click on the file to view the file, it'll work....

Come on, don't be too hard on snaaake... at least this time he's just trying to help....

I also show links of home depot products and stuffs here and there also....

rampy · « **Reply #20 on:** September 12, 2002, 02:58:08 pm »

c'mon you have to admit that ebay auction link was funny as hell...

rampy

neuromancer · « **Reply #21 on:** September 12, 2002, 04:31:57 pm »

Quote from: SNAAAKE on September 11, 2002, 01:17:15 pm

Why would you wanna clamp anything???
Just put the box together as usual.

Drywall screws would break the wood(trust me) if you are trying to add the sides to the panel with drywall screws.

Why do you say that? I have used *boxes* of drywall screws to fasten pieces of wood to each other. (I even put the exterior of my shed up with drywall screws.) The only times I've had problems was when I tried to put them into really narrow pieces of wood without pre-drilling. Sometimes the screws break, esp with 3" screws into oak, but that's a different issue ;-)

Bob.

kgriffin · « **Reply #22 on:** September 12, 2002, 04:36:30 pm »

Hey rampy...that is the funniest thing I have seen all day!

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #23 on:** September 12, 2002, 05:19:37 pm »

Quote

Why do you say that? I have used *boxes* of drywall screws to fasten pieces of wood to each other. (I even put the exterior of my shed up with drywall screws.) The only times I've had problems was when I tried to put them into really narrow pieces of wood without pre-drilling. Sometimes the screws break, esp with 3" screws into oak, but that's a different issue ;-)

Bob.

you seem like you know wood workin

...

seriouslly....i had too many problem with drywall screws....
tacks work great for me.very very thin onces.

John IV [MameUI64] · « **Reply #24 on:** September 12, 2002, 06:07:39 pm »

I want to get this straight you're suggesting using tacks of some kind to connect the sides? Just nail them in? How long and what size did you use? I had to go w/ 1/2" poplar for the sides of the base to fit my CP down onto it. Thanks - the Lexan looks great btw, you were right.

slug54 · « **Reply #25 on:** September 12, 2002, 07:38:05 pm »

John
I was checking out your panel,I like the color it looks sharp!
I think the tacks snaaake is refering too are what some people call "brads" or small finnish nails. I wouls stick with screws and glue.You see a lot of people around here use drywall screws ,They have a much finer thread than wood screws and will have a "slightly" less tendancy to split your wood. You actually get a stronger connection if you use the courser thread wood screws as long as you pre-drill with the correct size bit you shouldn't have a splitting problem.
I have a desktop controller I built about 4 years ago and it's been beat to hell and back and still is solid as a rock.

Slug54

Brax · « **Reply #26 on:** September 12, 2002, 07:44:17 pm »

Nails? Eww.

As long as you drill pilot holes and you're careful #6 wood screws will work fine. Screw and glue it so its strong. The whole point of this is to make ARCADE controls. Something you can hammer...... Don't go to the trouble of buying the proper controls and making a mess of the box.

So you're switching from 3/4" to 1/2"...... you're only gaining a 1/4" per side...... The connectors on the cherry switches are longer than that. Why on earth didn't you just bend the connector 90 degrees? I did that with my two player switch since you can't rotate them or the player image would be sideways. It worked perfect..... and looks great since my buttons are nice and close to the edge....

Seems like you're going to an awful lot of trouble.

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #27 on:** September 12, 2002, 07:53:19 pm »

yes...

i am talking about very thin finishing nails..that what i used for the sides..if you hammer it right..you cant even see the the tacks.its very very small..

also do you really wanna take chance with drywall screw.

remember,onces you screw up the side of your panel..

no way you can go back and fix.you gotta cut a new piece then

overall,drywall and pilot holes are not very tempting..

take my suggestion and you will find out sooner or later that i always find the easiest way.

John IV [MameUI64] · « **Reply #28 on:** September 12, 2002, 08:46:14 pm »

Groan, oh Brax, what a simple solution. One that didn't even occur to me, I must not have thought the switches could go that far.

Oh well, now w/ 2 bases.

Thanks for the heads up.

btw, now that I'm back to the 3/4" MDF would the #7 1 1/4 self drilling carpentry screws be more appropriate?

Quote from: Brax on September 12, 2002, 07:44:17 pm

Nails? Eww.

As long as you drill pilot holes and you're careful #6 wood screws will work fine. Screw and glue it so its strong. The whole point of this is to make ARCADE controls. Something you can hammer...... Don't go to the trouble of buying the proper controls and making a mess of the box.

So you're switching from 3/4" to 1/2"...... you're only gaining a 1/4" per side...... The connectors on the cherry switches are longer than that. Why on earth didn't you just bend the connector 90 degrees? I did that with my two player switch since you can't rotate them or the player image would be sideways. It worked perfect..... and looks great since my buttons are nice and close to the edge....

Seems like you're going to an awful lot of trouble.

Brax · « **Reply #29 on:** September 12, 2002, 10:21:27 pm »

Those will work ok, I've even used #8's on 5/8" thick wood. One provision. You HAVE to drill the proper size pilot holes. Take your time, put them in slow and you should be fine.

Also, I'm glad you're back to the 3/4" wood. Not that 1/2" wouldn't be strong enough for a box that small, but because I think you'll be alot happier with the weight. You don't want the joystick sliding all over the place under you.

Also one wiring tip...... not that I don't trust you with the obvious..... *smirk* But.......

Keep a close eye on which microswitch actually gets activated when you move the joystick. It's the opposite to the direction you move the stick. Theres still time for that.... I'm skipping ahead.

It's kinda neat someone is actually listening to this advice. *grin*

I think we should all vote that he changes the colour to pink! hehe

Keep up the good work, and have fun!

hyiu · « **Reply #30 on:** September 13, 2002, 09:19:02 am »

well.... personal opinion... I found that the caurse (wide) thread dry wall screws are easier to make the wood split when you screw it wrong.... (cos it seems just a little bit bigger...).... (maybe my imagination since I've been breathing plywood and MDF dust for a while... haaa haa haaa....
(also... if you use long ones... its harder to go in.... fine threads ones are definitely easier to go in....)

I personally like fine thread drywall screws myself....
of course... ALWAYS have to predrill.....

now... unless its necessary... I would not recommend putting a screw on the edge... why ?? cos its not as strong and you'll see it !!!!.... I use L brackets and corner brackets inside... so... the outside is just plain wood finish..... unless you're planning to laminate... then it doesn't matter.... if you paint or stain... hide all the screws inside..... (it'll take some planning... but it'll be nice when finished....)

also... for the screws length... I'm using 3/4 in plywood... when I use L brackets... I use 3/4 in drywall screws... since the L bracket metal has some thickness... I can always drill all the way and won't risk showing nail head and I know its deep enough.....

just my $0.02 cents of joystick building... heee heee....

dac · « **Reply #31 on:** September 13, 2002, 12:52:37 pm »

Brax, perfect point, if you don't drill pilot holes, you stand much greater chance of splitting the wood. Yes it takes more time and creates more sawdust, but makes it easier in the long run...
I predrilled all the holes with a countersink bit, so I could hide the head of the screw as well (using wood putty) I think I used #6 or #8 screws...

Lilwolf · « **Reply #32 on:** September 13, 2002, 02:15:22 pm »

HAHAHAHAHAHA Love the ebay post!

btw, a nice way to make a good strong box is like this.... (describing might not come out well)

use 1x1's in each corner (or 3/4x3/4... depending on the board size... just cut a few strips out.).

then take two sides... (top/bottom or left right or front/back) and lay them down... then glue/screw in the 1x1's giving exactly 1" or 3/4" (again based on size) so that the other sides will barely fit (you can test this with the real boards.

X
X
XO
X

so that the other side 'Y' will just fit in. Then let it fully dry.

Then after doing this to all the sides, then you put in your other parts. Glue will probably do it from there. I will sometimes add a screw or two in.

X
X
XO
XYYYY

Anyway, this will make a nice strong corner without any screwholes showing.

SirPoonga · « **Reply #33 on:** September 13, 2002, 02:16:38 pm »

Like my control panel....

chasmosis · « **Reply #34 on:** September 13, 2002, 03:45:21 pm »

Quote from: Brax on September 12, 2002, 07:44:17 pm

So you're switching from 3/4" to 1/2"...... you're only gaining a 1/4" per side...... The connectors on the cherry switches are longer than that. Why on earth didn't you just bend the connector 90 degrees? I did that with my two player switch since you can't rotate them or the player image would be sideways. It worked perfect..... and looks great since my buttons are nice and close to the edge....

Actually you can rotate the 1-4 player buttons (at least the ones from happs) to clear the switch and still have them straight. The limitation is that you have to switch it 180 degrees. If you take the microswitch off, look at the 'feet' that actually press on the microswitch (there's one on each side). If you press those in towards the center of the button, you can take the actual keypress part of the button out of the body of the button or simply rotate it 180 degrees. Rotating it this way will have the switch pointing the opposite direction without having to bend the microswitch connections.


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