Setting Up Shop

[javeryh]

I am in the process of setting up a wood shop in my garage and I would like some input/feedback on the "best" way to go about it.

1.  Do I need a drill press to drill out the holes for the buttons and joysticks on my control panel or will a plunge router or regular drill do the trick? - I'd like my cuts to be accurate (who wouldn't?) and perpendicular to the plywood.  Is there a guide or attachment I could add to my drill to make sure the cut is perpendicular?

2.  I am thinking about getting a table saw but I don't want to spend an arm and a leg.  Does anyone have any affordable recommendations? (I guess around $300 or less)

3.  Same question as #2 but I'm looking for a jigsaw or some other way to do rounded cuts.

4.  OK, last one for now and it's more like a how-to question - Would routing slots on the inside of the cabinet to accept the things like the back pieces and the cabinet shelf (notched at the ends) hold with some wood glue and clamps or do I have to use screws?  I was thinking about a 1/4" deep slot in 3/4" thick birch plywood.

Thanks!

[FractalWalk]

Jig saws are cheap and an absolute must!!

If you are going to set up an honest to god wood shop, then a drill press is pretty handy. However it isn't absolutely necessary for making a cab. Depending upon your CP design some of the holes may not even be able to be drilled by a press without a very deep throat.  You can get guides to make straight holes or get a standard drill with levels built - in.  But again, that probably isn't necessary for making a standard CP.

I would definitely get a router. I went the cheap route ($40-ish) but  if you are making a real wood shop, you will want to invest in a good router.

Regarding a table saw, they have limited use for many cab designs and I believe most people here just use a circular saw. However, for a decent shop a table saw is indispensible. I bought mine for about $70 and I love it. You can get a prety nice one for home projects for <$300.

Regarding joins, screws and glue is always better than just glue. But depending upon your design and the load, you might get away with just glue, but it's hard to say without more info.

[skinnyfong]

A drill press isn't really necessary.  The wood isn't very thick and you can be off ALOT and everything will still look ok once the buttons/joysticks are in the holes.

The Ryobi table saw at Home Depot for $99 is a good deal.  A bunch of people on here have used that same saw with good results.  You can also pick up a Ryobi jigsaw for around $40.

[Mameotron]

I agree with everyone on 1,2, & 3.

4.  I would go with a 3/8" deep slot in your 3/4" plywood for the shelf.  Personally I like using Gorilla glue & nails.  I only use screws if I see the need to take it apart somewhere down the road.

[Xiaou2]

 Radial Drills rule   ^_^

  They roll, rotate, and can adjust from 0 to 33" (back/forth).   Most presses can only go 9 inches deep into material - as the stand gets in the way.   (so if you needed holes 10"+ into material - youd be out of luck without a radial press)

  Ive got a floor standing unit - but Ive seen half size ones for much less money on ebay.  Mine was from Harbor freight tools.

  If you cant afford - then grab a 30$  'drill guide'  device.

[Apollo]

I have drilled numerous wood and metal control panels and have used just a normal power drill and steady hand and had absolutely no problems. If you have the drill press already then fine it would be handy but if not there is no need to spend the extra cash.
Jigsaw is essential.
Table saw is really not needed, a skill saw ( circular saw for you yanks ) and straight edge guide is all that is required.
I haven't seen the routing support idea done --BINGO! Either that, or I was attempting to say "before" but it was too many letters to type-- but it sounds like it would be fine with just glue, the only thing is with constructing like that is you have to bring the sides of the cabinet together to match up all the supports ( hope you see what I mean ). Whereas with the normal method you can construct the main cab and then add in supports etc.
My suggestions are
Circular saw
Jigsaw
Router
Power drill
Battery powered drill

[Ghoward]

A table saw can come in handy if you have any angle cuts on your cab. My cabs had lots of them and I couldn't have done it without one. However most of my cuts were made circular saw and a piece of wood to give a straight edge.

Gary

[bwest]

1.  The drill press is not needed but, wow do I love mine.  I have a 16" Floor model made by Grizzly.  I think I paid like $275 for it.  However, for arcade cabinet projects it is not needed.  A careful hand and a keen eye can get it done for you for cheap.

2.  I would suggest don't even bother with a table saw unless you go all out with a full size contractors model and a outfeed table behind it (>$750).  I had a small cheapy like discussed above and it just cannot handle medium to large panels.  I upgraded to a Jet contractor's saw with cast iron wings and a 4'x4' outfeed table.  I can now cut 4'x8' sheets by myself very accurately.  
However, you can use a torsion box table, 8' straight edge, and a circular saw with a nice carbide blade and achieve masterful results for little money.  This is how I did it before upgrading saws.  To be honest with you, if it was not for a few specific operations, I would not need my table saw.

3.  A jigsaw or band saw are your only reasonbly efficient ways to get curves cut.  A router can be used with a jig to cut these but a jigsaw and a sander is probably easier and faster.

4.  Cutting dados in your cabinet will definately make it stronger.  If you want to avoid using screws with the joint, just use a brad nailer and shoot from the inside of the joint at an angle and you achieve similar results (assuming you are using glue either way).

Finally, I would suggest investing in real high quality hand tools before getting drill presses and table saws.  A great router or jigsaw is night and day different from the $49 harbor freight special.  I have a Porter Cable 690 router combo kit that includes a fixed base and a plunge base that I could not live without.  I have a $39 circular saw with a $105 carbide blade that cuts as nice as my table saw.  I also have a Freud jig saw that cuts true and straight, and always buy the best blades and bits you can afford.

Good luck

[DaveJ-UK]

Personally I like using Gorilla glue & nails.  I only use screws if I see the need to take it apart somewhere down the road.

IMO you should use screws instead of glue/nails wherever possible so that, as you point out, you can take it apart again with little effort and damage. Even if you don't think you will ever need to take it apart, you may find you have to at some point for any number of reasons.

[marsmarvin]

IMO you should use screws instead of glue/nails wherever possible

Absolutely.  Woodworking with glue and nails is like working quadratic equations with an ink pen.  You'd better be sure.

I can't tell you how many times with this first cab I'd do something, stand back and decide to change it for one reason or another.  

I guess I like the cheap route.  On purpose I've limited my power tools to a good drill with built in levels, a circular saw (which I consider a must because I get straighter and faster cuts than I can with a jig), a jig saw, a router, and a hand sander).

Not only is this the cheap way to go, but it saves floor space.  Everything can be put away in a tool cabinet and you can reclaim the space for your cars.  

 

[javeryh]

Wow - this forum rules.  Thanks for all the responses!  OK so the essential tools to get are a router, circular saw and a jigsaw.  How does a circular saw make those long straight cuts?  I don't think I can make it perfect free hand...

[Tilzs]

If you are setting up a wood shop, you are going to be much better off getting a table saw with a cast iron top and a good fence than a drill press. Drill press is handy but a table saw is the cornerstone of any woodshop.

You may also want to look at a rotary saw like a rotozip or a dremel advantage instead of a jig saw. Jig saws are great and all but I find the rotoary saws are much more usefull for other projects around the house, not just cutting curves.

[wj2k3]

"...let's take a moment to talk about shop safety. Be sure to read, understand, and follow all the safety rules that come with your power tools. Knowing how to use your power tools properly will greatly reduce the risk of personal injury. And remember, there is no more important rule than to wear these, safety glasses."

Norm Abram (The New Yankee Workshop)

[marsmarvin]

...and make sure to have plenty of ear plugs on hand.  

It's fun to PRETEND to not hear the wife.    

[javeryh]

...and make sure to have plenty of ear plugs on hand.  

It's fun to PRETEND to not hear the wife.    

That's the truth...

[DougHillman]

Wow - this forum rules.  Thanks for all the responses!  OK so the essential tools to get are a router, circular saw and a jigsaw.  How does a circular saw make those long straight cuts?  I don't think I can make it perfect free hand...

You get a piece of angle iron and clamp it to the workpiece as a guide for the circular saw or router.  

[PacManFan]

Wow - this forum rules.  Thanks for all the responses!  OK so the essential tools to get are a router, circular saw and a jigsaw.  How does a circular saw make those long straight cuts?  I don't think I can make it perfect free hand...

What I do to make long straight cuts, is to clamp down a long straight board to use as a guide on top of the piece I'm cutting. Then , when I use the circular saw, it runs along the length of my guide board and gives perfect straight cuts.
-PMF

[MoonDog]

Here is a great support site for a $300 table saw.  You can also find a lot of helpful woodworking information in their forum.  Very friendly crowd there too so don't hesitate to ask questions.
http://www.bt3central.com/default.asp  
I own one and I don't think you'll find a better table saw for twice the price.  This is not a contractor saw though so treat it well and it will treat you well in return.  I wouldn't suggest the cheaper table top models.

As others have mentioned, you can probably do just fine with a good circular saw with a carbide blade, some saw horses, and a straight cutting guide.  You can buy a very nice guide at Home Depot or Lowe's, but there are plenty of cheaper options that will work just as well.

As for glue without screws or nails, you are going to need a bunch of clamps and that can get pricey.  You can never have too many clamps though.

[goofy]

Great discussion here, thanks.

For us rookies out here, would anyone mind sharing their best ideas for making sure that everything gets bolted/nailed/glued square? How to align everything properly (easiest) and hold it all while drilling and nailing?

Thanks for all the advice.

[marsmarvin]

Goofy:

One of the most critical things to get right in the making of your cab is that it is square.

Here's some good advice on this:

http://www.arcadeparadise.org/arcade/ap3/cabinetconstruction.html

Sasquatch used homemade plumbs (I used kite sting and fishing weights for my plumbs) to get the cabinet plumb before screwing it down.

Of course it's critical that you have the cabinet sitting level on it's side while doing this.

See figure 3 on the page I just referenced.

[bwest]

A cheap straight edge can be had by cutting the long end of a sheet of plywood off.  The factory edges on sheet goods are very straight.  My straight edge is actually an 8' long piece of birch plywood that I have polyurethaned for stability.  I have used it for years with just that factory edge.

Also, test cut with your circular saw to find the distance between the guide on your saw and the edge of the blade.  Then cut a piece you can use as a guide to setup your straight edge and then you will cut perfect edges everytime.

Goodluck

[javeryh]

These are all great responses!  I'm going to Home Depot either tomorrow or Monday to make my first purchases.  I think I'm going to buy the router, jigsaw and circular saw.  That should be enough to get me started.  

Where's the best place to buy sheets of birch plywood?  I've decided to use it for my first cabinet...

[fredster]

Eventually you will move past the Arcade cabinets and want to make more stuff.

You need a router.  Routers make all the tmoulding and cut out relief grooves, slots, etc.

Like anything else, accessorize.

Don't forget there is a lot of money in all the drills and fastners.  Get an organizer shelf so you can sort them out.

I also recommend at least a 12V cordless drill.  You need a 3/8" variable speed hand drill, because sometimes you just need the power of a plug in drill.  There is a tool for a drill that I got a walmart, it's a bending extension.  It's about 3 bucks and it allows you to drive screws in tight places.  

Do I need to mention a sander?  I have a belt sander, a 1/2 sheet sander, and a 1/4 sheet sander.  I use all of them from time to time.

And a Drimmel tool.  Get a nice drimmel tool with an extension to get those little places.  A sanding drum can move plexi all around.

If you have time, pick up a heat gun if you want to bend plexi or take off paint, stickers, etc.

And I agree about the table saw.  It saves a lot of time.

Last, sawhorses.  You can either build em or if you have the cash, buy the metal fold up type.  they are sturdy and take up less room

[Mameotron]

Where's the best place to buy sheets of birch plywood?  I've decided to use it for my first cabinet...

I was at Home Depot yesterday, and they still have birch plywood for $30 a sheet.  Pretty good, since after the hurricane regular plywood & paticle board prices have soared above $20 a sheet.

[Robopede]

If you are setting up a wood shop, you are going to be much better off getting a table saw with a cast iron top and a good fence than a drill press. Drill press is handy but a table saw is the cornerstone of any woodshop.

I'm considering two table saws, both made by Grizzly. The only differences seem to be horsepower (2 vs. 1.5), and one has a cast iron table and wings instead of sheet metal ones. I don't even know what wings are. Are cast iron ones worth an extra $90?

[Xiaou2]

sometimes the additional lenght addons can be off a bit in accuracy - because of the material, and how you have to install them.

a one piece, or thick iron wing wont bend or warp out of allignment like sheetmetal will.

ive got a cheapie with sheetmetal wings - which is ok for me... but if i could afford the best... i would shurly choose a better version.

[bwest]

I have owned both the sheetmetal wings and the cast iron.  The cast iron will remain flat over time and will not dent or ding.  In addition, the added weight seems to aid in stability.

I strongly suggest getting the cast iron wings.  However, some models can be upgraded at a later date.  Additionally, you could custom build some new wings later.

Horsepower ratings in table saws can be misleading.  Some list peak vs. non-peak.  My Jet contractor saw is a 1 1/2 HP model and seams to have plenty of power.  Grizzly has an excellent reputation as well.  I own a Grizzly Drill Press that I love.

[Tilzs]

Be warned though, a cast iron top is going to need some TLC every now and then to keep the rust away.  

[Tailgunner]

1.  Do I need a drill press to drill out the holes for the buttons and joysticks on my control panel or will a plunge router or regular drill do the trick? - I'd like my cuts to be accurate (who wouldn't?) and perpendicular to the plywood.  Is there a guide or attachment I could add to my drill to make sure the cut is perpendicular?

A hand drill and butterfly bit will suffice. Drill slowly and steadily, and stop when the point penetrates the other side. Flip the board and finish drilling from that side. You'll get nice clean holes this way.

2.  I am thinking about getting a table saw but I don't want to spend an arm and a leg.  Does anyone have any affordable recommendations? (I guess around $300 or less)

I prefer radial arm saws to table saws, especially when dealing with sheet materials. In either case, look around for used equipment. Wood working equipment tends to last for generations, and you can find high quality used equipment for conciderably less than it costs new.

3.  Same question as #2 but I'm looking for a jigsaw or some other way to do rounded cuts.

Jigsaw, sander and router. You'll have to cut at least one with a jigsaw, but you can turn around and use it for a pattern and cut copies with your router.

4.  OK, last one for now and it's more like a how-to question - Would routing slots on the inside of the cabinet to accept the things like the back pieces and the cabinet shelf (notched at the ends) hold with some wood glue and clamps or do I have to use screws?  I was thinking about a 1/4" deep slot in 3/4" thick birch plywood.

It's better to cut support strips and glue them in place.  1" wide strips of 3/4" plywood work well. I pin nail everything together, screws are for hanging drywall.

[Chris]

My Craftsman 12V cordless drill ($49 on sale) has a bullseye level on the back, so I was able to drill reasonably straight holes without a drill press... good enough for a CP, at least.  There's just enough play in a 1-1/8" hole that a button should sit okay in any hole you drill carefully.

Get a dremel.  A cordless dremel is a hundred times more useful than a corded one.

[Sasquatch!]

Goofy:

One of the most critical things to get right in the making of your cab is that it is square.

Here's some good advice on this:

http://www.arcadeparadise.org/arcade/ap3/cabinetconstruction.html

Sasquatch used homemade plumbs (I used kite sting and fishing weights for my plumbs) to get the cabinet plumb before screwing it down.

Of course it's critical that you have the cabinet sitting level on it's side while doing this.

See figure 3 on the page I just referenced.

HOLY COW, someone found that useful??  I thought everyone would think I was out of my tree when I documented that.  

[patrickl]

Goofy:

One of the most critical things to get right in the making of your cab is that it is square.

Here's some good advice on this:

http://www.arcadeparadise.org/arcade/ap3/cabinetconstruction.html

Sasquatch used homemade plumbs (I used kite sting and fishing weights for my plumbs) to get the cabinet plumb before screwing it down.

Of course it's critical that you have the cabinet sitting level on it's side while doing this.

See figure 3 on the page I just referenced.

HOLY COW, someone found that useful??  I thought everyone would think I was out of my tree when I documented that.  

Does that even work? Won; the strings hang down at an angle due to the odd (non-symmetrical) shaped weights?

[pointdablame]

Goofy:

One of the most critical things to get right in the making of your cab is that it is square.

Here's some good advice on this:

http://www.arcadeparadise.org/arcade/ap3/cabinetconstruction.html

Sasquatch used homemade plumbs (I used kite sting and fishing weights for my plumbs) to get the cabinet plumb before screwing it down.

Of course it's critical that you have the cabinet sitting level on it's side while doing this.

See figure 3 on the page I just referenced.

HOLY COW, someone found that useful??  I thought everyone would think I was out of my tree when I documented that.  

Does that even work? Won; the strings hang down at an angle due to the odd (non-symmetrical) shaped weights?

No, it works just fine as long as the weight is beyond the board you are tyring to square.  Gravity takes care of the rest.

[neuromancer]

I have a small shop.

I have a Sears table saw that I really like. It folds down and has wheels built into the side so you can move it to the corner when you're not using it.

Tools in the order I find them handy: Cordless drill, table saw, power mitre saw, circular saw, reciprocating saw, router, jig saw.

My cordless drill is a 14v 1/2 drill that will drive 4" screws into oak.

To rip sheets of plywood with my circular saw, I use a strip off a piece of plywood clamped to the other sheet as a guide. To crosscut a sheet of plywood, I use a 48" ruler (clamped) as a guide.

When you're cutting, check your measurements twice.

To slot a sheet of plywood, I'd use a dado guide in the table saw. You can use a router, but bits are different sizes than plywood, so you don;t get a good fit.

I wouldn't use 3/4" for the back 1/2" should be way more than necessary. I also woudn't glue it in, because I would want to be able to open it up.

Bob

[Zakk]

I'll add $.02 here as well.

The tools I use the most when building the cabinets:

Drill press: There are just soooo many homes to make, and since I use plexi too, this saved me countless hours in cracked and unaligned holes.

Cordless drill: DeWalt is my fav.  I have 3 of them, a 14 volt for the light stuff and a couple of 18V hammerdrills for the heavy drilling/screwing.

Table saw: You can't get a good cut without one, although I have cheated and used the angle iron and circular saw route...I think the best thing is that you can set the fence and make multiple identical cuts, which is near impossible with the clamp and iron.

Router: Oh man, when you need it you need it.  No better way of doing your t-molding or rounding off the edges of your plexi or wood, or countersinking joysticks etc etc etc.  Oscar uses his for his button holes I think.

Band saw: for nice quick cuts in thinner material, it's nice to have the band saw handy.  

Bench grinder: I use this more than I thought I would.  Either rust needs to be buffed off, a piece of metal or plastic is just a smidgen too big, or the edge of the plexi needs to be buffed to a shine.  Big timesaver.
http://www.mameworld.net/massive/How-to/Buff/buffing.htm

Soldering iron: You just can't get by without one when working with these beasts.

big---I'm attempting to get by the auto-censor and should be beaten after I re-read the rules-- metal ruler: Indespenible when you need it.

Jig saw: I use this fella when I want a whacked curve or something.  I never have had luck with them, so I try to avoid it.

Biscuit joiner: I have Narm's yankee workshop to thank for this.  I use it on almost every joint I make, however it's not needed, and yep, it makes a pretty permanent bond, so best to measure twice cut once kind of thing.

Palm sander: Nice for quickly sanding the putty holes, and rough edges.

Welder: Oscer got me hooked on this, it's nice to be able to make your own bracket/mount/harness/panel etc.  It's not for everyone, but damn it's amazing how many things 'need' to be welded around the house when you're done working on the cab.

CLAMPS!!!: You can never have enough clamps.  Period.

Air compressor: this is admittedly a luxury.  However, I have used it to invisibly tack in t-molding when it didn't want to stay in the slot, and I like to spray paint on pieces without the smell of aerosol paints.

And lots of little things I can't think of now.  Basically, you can't go wrong when buying tools.  TOOLS GOOD!

**edit: forgot mameworld doesn't allow links to pictures.  You'll just have to imagine pictures of tools

[goofy]

Question on getting some woodclamps:

I'm still accumulating items for my woodworking projects (hopefully, my cabinet will be the first one). I know it's great to have a ton of clamps, but that gets expensive to do all at once. So, I'd like to get a few that are necessary to start and add more as I go along.

So, what would you guys suggest to be the first purchases? The standard sizes seem to be 6", 12", 18" and 24" and I see them in basically two styles. The kind with wood end that you screw tight and then there are the quick release ratchet style (see pics below for what I'm talking about).

What should I get first?

Thanks for the help.

[goofy]

And, here's the quick release ratchet style.

[javeryh]

I'd like an answer to this too - Norm on the New Yankeee Workshop uses both but he seems to prefer the kind you tighten by screwing...

[neuromancer]

I've got one Jorgenson clamp with 12" jaws, two pipe clamps with 48" pipes, and 4 quick clamps in various sizes, and two ratcheting strap clamps with metal corners.

I've made tables and cabinets with those.

You can never have too many, but I've been able to get by -- they're expensive.

Bob

[Tailgunner]

Norm (met him at a woodworking trade show once, nice guy) typically builds furniture, and for that you need clamps that will hold things nice and square. The screw clamps are better for that.

I prefer the quick clamps, but then the majority of my wood working projects are crates made to ship my metal working projects in.

For cab building, either will suffice. If you plan to move on to furniture once you cab is done, the screw clamps would be a better investment.