creating a curved surface?

[PixelCloud]

My new cab design will require me to bend the pieces of wood on cab. i really want to follow the curves of the side panels?

what is the best way to go about doing this?

should i just go back to my lold design?

[foomench]

How thick does the bent wood need to be, and how tight is the curve? If you're covering edges, you could use veneer tape which is very easy to apply to curved surfaces. Hardwood dealers typically sell this by the foot, and it is 1/32" to 1/16" thick.

If you want a thicker material, you'll need to soften it up and devise some clever clamping, or even use a mold (the other side of the curve).

I've also heard of a vacuum chamber being used to apply veneer to curved surfaces, but I'm thinking that is beyond your needs.

-foomench

[PixelCloud]

well acutally it needs to be around 3/4 inch think once its done.. and the surface is a long curve.

[NoOne=NBA=]

Do you have any diagrams/pics of what you are intending to do?

There may be ways of cheating it, so that the bending piece isn't REALLY 3/4 thick.

[old school gamer]

Depending on the curve,there are many ways to do this. The easiest way is to use strips of wood to create a frame. For example,cut 3/4" ply to 4 inches wide and however long you need it. Then make lots of cuts across the four inch section (not all the way through) this will make it flexible enough to bend. Bend to your specifications. Make 4 or 5 of these (depending on how big the area is ) to form a frame. Then attatch 1/4 " or thinner ply to it. There is also a flexible moulding that you can use. Im unsure of the cost. And it may be TO flexible for what you need. You can also build a frame from regular mdf. mdf is cheap and you could draw the radius that you need on the sheet of mdf ,cut it with a jig saw ,and use that as your frame. Alot of people that build wall units do that, and then cover with mica.

[old school gamer]

This might help.

[PixelCloud]

hmm i look into somethign like that

if i could post a autocad file i wouls show ylou what i mean

[crashwg]

just change the extension of the autocad file to .txt and attach it with a note that it is not infact a .txt file.

[Tailgunner]

What I've done in the past is to grind 1/4" plywood down till I had enough flexibility to form the curve. I'd then build up the required thickness using layers of plywood. I had the plywood ground down at a cab shop. It cost me a six-pack to have it done.

[Jakobud]

You can also bend wood by soaking them in water or some liquid.  Lookup that Homemade Backyard Monorail that one guy made.  A lot of his track is bent wood that he did by just soaking the wood planks in a kiddie pool or something, then bending them and clamping them into a certain position for a while, then after a period of drying time, then stay bent in that same position.

[old school gamer]

That will work,but the problem with it is the wood needs to be clamped for long periods (until it fully dries) And that means lots of large clamps  $$$$$. Also it is hard to make sure the wood STAYS in that position and doesnt "relax". Like I said there are many options to chose from,use whatever you are most comfortable with.

[Witchboard]

I plan on using the method that old school gamer suggested.  If I manage to start that part before you begin yours, then I'll let you know the results.

[PixelCloud]

here is my incomplete cad drawing

but you get the idea

change the .txt to .dwg

[Tailgunner]

Looks like it'll be a interesting cab design. Old School Gamer's back sawing suggestion should let you accomplish this. Before you cut the whole panel, I'd experiment with a few strips roughly 6" wide and as long as you need for a given curved section. I'd cut through all but one of the plywood's layers, with that layer oriented so you can bend it with the grain. Play with width and spacing of the cuts to see what gives the smoothest curve versus effort.  

[PixelCloud]

Looks like it'll be a interesting cab design. Old School Gamer's back sawing suggestion should let you accomplish this. Before you cut the whole panel, I'd experiment with a few strips roughly 6" wide and as long as you need for a given curved section. I'd cut through all but one of the plywood's layers, with that layer oriented so you can bend it with the grain. Play with width and spacing of the cuts to see what gives the smoothest curve versus effort.  

after i saw pizel huggers design i knew that ym lusid ripoff wasnt enough!!!

i think i'm going to have to build a frame for the inside because there wont be enough support

[PixelCloud]

what if i took multiple peices of thin wood (1/8 or even 1/16) then got some long lL supports made (to fit the curves)  then attached pieces by piece of wood to it, it would be stronger( i think) and i could get the thinkness i neeed

EDIT: or bend all the thin woods then glue them together, make the final bend by clamping it, then attach to the L brackets

[DrewKaree]

It would depend on the tools you have access to.  If you want the piece to be ³/₄" thick all the way across, you will need some steam bending apparatus, which is probably out of the scope of your expertise.  That's idea #1, and scratch it off the list.  Idea #2 only requires patience and a band saw.  

Take several pieces of wood as wide as you need the piece to be.  Make sure you have enough pieces to make a sandwich (glue all the pieces together to form your blank) and cut it to the final width you require.  On the thickness of the piece you now have, draw the curve you require, and bandsaw it to shape, sand, and you're done.  

The other thing you could do is make a bending form and make a sandwich of  ¹/₄" - ¹/₈" pieces, adding them one by one after the glue has dried from the previous piece until you get your final thickness.  Saw the ends to even them up, and you're done.  Saves you the time and effort of sawing numerous kerfs to bend it, and gives it more stability as well.

If you DO attempt this, please make sure you post what method you chose and why - to help someone else who may be considering this.

[Minwah]

I don't understand exactly what you're trying to do, but I'm interested...could anyone post a quick (non-cad) drawing?

[Witchboard]

I second that request.  I can't even save the .txt file.

[DaveJ-UK]

You can buy MDF with cuts already made in it so it bends, called Neatform Bendy MDF  from a company called Neat Concepts.

http://www.neatconcepts.com/

[johnnysmitch]

I think you were on the right track about using several thin layers - I would suggest making a quick mold out of scrap wood, then getting several thin pieces of wood, glueing them all together, then clamping them to the mold while the glue is still wet.  We used this method to make chairs for a lounge when I was in school - we used some stuff called 'bendy plywood' that is wonderful for this, but it's pretty expensive, and can be hard to find (gotta check the nicer lumber stores; those that usually have furniture grade hardwood and such, and expect it to run you about $35 for a 4'x8' 1/8" sheet...).  Good luck!

[Wade]

Some people on this forum have made bends in the front of their control panels by using a layer or two of 1/4" hardboard glued together and braced on the back.

Wade

[MiKman]

I don't understand exactly what you're trying to do, but I'm interested...could anyone post a quick (non-cad) drawing?

Here is a picture of the autocad drawing for you guys. nice and curvy :-) I like it, it will be cool when you figure out the curved surfaces!

[DvMxDv]

That's a sweet looking cab design.

You may consider using 3/4" MDF for the sides and use 2x4's to connect and brace the sides.  If you did it right, the top, back and front panels wouldn't be load bearing, so in theory, you could use something like 1/8" ply for those curved panels.  That way you could avoid things like slot cutting or soaking the wood.  Just a thought...

[Mameotron]

Awesome design.  Can't wait to see it completed!

Here's yet another approach:
It is actually not too hard to bend 1/2" plywood.  If you made the sides from 3/4 MDF like DvMxDv suggests, and make a frame from 2x4s that the plywood can conform to, you will be able to bend the plywood and nail it in place, without making any kerf cuts or soaking the wood.  I don't think any of the curves in your design are too tight to do this.

I'll try to make a quick & crappy picture to explain this better.

[PixelCloud]

ok guys i have a *crappy* ms paint pictrure of what needs to be done!!

i dont want the curved wood to be on top of the side panels so i can use chrome t molding

[old school gamer]

WTF is that!!!!!!!! Just kidding. From the looks of the design ,you should be able to complete your objective by using kerf cuts like I stated earlier. Let us know . OSG

[PixelCloud]

WTF is that!!!!!!!! Just kidding. From the looks of the design ,you should be able to complete your objective by using kerf cuts like I stated earlier. Let us know . OSG

i think i'm just going to make a frame with 2x4's then use very thin ply wood on the panels, that way i dont ghave to make a billion cuts

[old school gamer]

WTF is that!!!!!!!! Just kidding. From the looks of the design ,you should be able to complete your objective by using kerf cuts like I stated earlier. Let us know . OSG

i think i'm just going to make a frame with 2x4's then use very thin ply wood on the panels, that way i dont ghave to make a billion cuts

That should work, IF you use thin enough plywood. Make certain that you fasten the ply down thoroughly. OSG

[Mameotron]

Here is the promised crappy picture.  The yellow blocks are supposed to be the 2x4 framing.  If they are placed 1/2" from the top edge, your 1/2" plywood will be nice and flush with the top of the sides.

However, I agree with everyone else, you probably ought to use real thin plywood.  The 1/2" stuff and the required 2x4 framers will probably get in the way of your marquee and other stuff as well.

[PixelCloud]

the eaiest way would to be put it on the edge of the side panels....

buty i want t molding!!

[Lilwolf]

Very cool looking cabinet.  And I would love to hear if you have any luck with the bendy MDF if you go that route.  You probably don't want to use a bunch of square blocks, but instead cut some plywood or mdf to the right shape... and cut 3 or 4... and add it to a frame.  Otherwise it might end trying to bend into 4 or more flat sides with a crease.

But a real question here...

are you going to butt this up to a wall?

You are going to spend a LOT of time and money getting the curves on the back...and nobody will see them!  

You might want to stick with the curve in the side panels, and the lower front... but have a squared off seconds for the back and top that are inside the curve of the sides (so you cant see them from the sides).

might cut down your build time and costs CONSIDERABLY

Also, for bends.... you cant do this with MDF, but you might be able with a thin plywood (or more likely real wood).  You can wet them down and they become somewhat pliable.  Then you wrap / clamp them around a pre-made shape.  Then let it dry.  

Or for some real fine wood working, it can take months to properly bend wood the way you would want.  You build an adjustable frame to wrap it around and you stretch it a little more every day.  At the same time you build an outter frame to make sure it doesn't crack.  I don't know all the real ways to do it, but I have a friend near where I grew up that would make million dollar stair cases.  It was cool to see how some of them would be built.  Some took years.

[Bgnome]

why not route out a channel 1/2" in from the edge?  if none of those pieces are load bearing and are just there for looks, you can just slide in 1/8" thick ply or whatever you want to use and still be able to put t-molding on the edges of the mdf

[Lilwolf]

routing?  It would take forever and probably go through a few bits...   I don't know how much the bendable MDF is... but I would guess that it would cost 30 in bits not including wasted time / possibly wasted MDF trying.

BUT..

you could probably do it with a well set circular saw and guide.

[GodSend25]

why not route out a channel 1/2" in from the edge?  if none of those pieces are load bearing and are just there for looks, you can just slide in 1/8" thick ply or whatever you want to use and still be able to put t-molding on the edges of the mdf

Thats what I was thinking.. Keep the 2x4's in there for support (move them a little futher away from the edge).  Route your guide all the way along each inner side about 1/2 inch down, and bobs your uncle you can slide the thinnest piece of wood you can buy in there.

As far as what to use, I am not sure what they call it, but it comes in two types.  Both are exactly the same except 1 has holes drilled in every inch or so.  Its the kind of stuff people use when they are setting up workshops in their basement and need somewhere to hang tools.  Obviously avoid the one with the holes.  I think it comes in 1/4 inch or even thinner.

[Tilzs]

You said in an earlier post that it needs to be 3/4". Why? I think something thin would work out well here like 1/4" MDF or hardboard. It's only a top and it's not load bearing. You are never going to get something that is 3/4" thick to bend that much.

[boesiii]

This website talks about the same method (cutting lines in mdf) but instead of using one sheet they use two sheets.

http://www.uniqueprojects.com/projects/curvedpanel/curvedpanel.htm

You can mount the curved sheets to the inside of the cabinet by adding 1 or 2 pieces of 1X10 (depending how tight the curve is)

[Witchboard]

I also found this interesting.  It's on the same page as the sawboard somebody linked to in another thread.

[Gumby]

With it being 3/4" and with that many 2x4s at the top, won't this thing be stupid heavy, along with being even more top heavy than normal (due to the monitor)?

You may have difficulity moving it (put wheels on the bottom or something).

Think you should go with something lighter, 1/4" with 2x2s or 1x1s as the cross braces that the bent panels attach to.  Keep the overall structure frame at 2x4s.

-G

[fredster]

Stupid question:
Could you use a piece of lexan and bend it with a heat gun?

You can paint it with that new Krylon plastic paint I see at walmart.

It could glow too.  Put a light behind it and you could have an errie green glow comming out the curved back.