Plexiglass for control panel -- cut it myself or have glass shop do it?

[sofakng]

From reading all the posts on here it seems like EVERYBODY has cut their own plexiglass for their control panels (the button holes, etc).

Given that everybody else cut their own plexiglass I had assumed that glass shops typically don't do this kind of work and only do straight cuts for large pieces of plexiglass.

Well, I called a local glass shop and asked if I bring a piece of wood (eg. my mdf control panel) would they be able to cut a piece of plexiglass to match it (including holes, etc) -- they said they could that.  I didn't ask for a price but I'll check back with them later.

Is this uncommon?  I've never heard of anybody else getting this done so I'm wondering if I should cut the holes myself for some reason.

My father insists that the glass shop will do a better job (which would make sense), but because I've never seen a single post on here regarding this I'm a bit skeptical.

Anybody have any information on this?

[mpm32]

If you have a router, you should do it yourself.

[sofakng]

If you have a router, you should do it yourself.

What's the reasoning behind this?  Wouldn't the glass shop make a perfect match to my mdf board?

I do have a router, but I don't have a "flush trim" bit or whatever it is.  I'm assuming thats what you are referring to?  What does that bit do anyways?

[johnnysmitch]

a 'flush trim' bit is a straight router bit that has a smooth area either above or below the cutting part (mostly for use in either table or plunge routers) that allows you to run it along a template and route an exact copy of the template.  I can't tell if that makes any sense or not.  As GI Joe always said "Knowledge is Power!".

[johnnysmitch]

Forgot to mention - the reason you shouldn't have a glass shop do it (if you have/can get ahold of a flush trim bit) is because it is very easy to do, and even do well, so it could be seen as a waste to pay a glass shop to do it for you.  If the price isn't high, and you're not comfortable doing it yourself, then by all means have a pro do it.  If you've built the rest of your CP though, this should be well within your ability.  Good luck!

[ThePaul]

If you already have a router I'd say do it yourself. The guys at the glass shop will probalby just bust out their router and do the same thing anyway  

[Hoagie_one]

a 'flush trim' bit is a straight router bit that has a smooth area either above or below the cutting part (mostly for use in either table or plunge routers) that allows you to run it along a template and route an exact copy of the template.  I can't tell if that makes any sense or not.  As GI Joe always said "Knowledge is Power!".

Actually GI JOE said, knowing is half the battle, YO JOE!!!

[sofakng]

Well, I'm still a little confused... (sorry I'm very new to woodworking, but I've learned a TON by doing this project).

First, I thought the way to cut the plexiglass is by using a drill (not a router) and using a forstner bit with the drill is reverse.

You're saying I should use a router (not a drill) using a flush trim bit?  I don't have a bit so I would need to buy one.

When I called the glass shop they made it sound like cutting a template would be dirt cheap.  I'm just worried that perhaps that holes won't be as smooth or something and that is why everybody is telling me to do it by myself.

If the glass shop is only going to charge a couple of dollars extra AND they will do a good job (this I don't know), I would think I would be better off letting them do it then buy a $15 router bit I'll only use once.

Please keep suggestions coming though... I consider this piece very important because it will be the most visible and I want it to come out as good as possible.

[sofakng]

Errr, one more question...

What size flush trim router bit is required?

[Buddabing]

From reading all the posts on here it seems like EVERYBODY has cut their own plexiglass for their control panels (the button holes, etc).

Given that everybody else cut their own plexiglass I had assumed that glass shops typically don't do this kind of work and only do straight cuts for large pieces of plexiglass.

Well, I called a local glass shop and asked if I bring a piece of wood (eg. my mdf control panel) would they be able to cut a piece of plexiglass to match it (including holes, etc) -- they said they could that.  I didn't ask for a price but I'll check back with them later.

Is this uncommon?  I've never heard of anybody else getting this done so I'm wondering if I should cut the holes myself for some reason.

My father insists that the glass shop will do a better job (which would make sense), but because I've never seen a single post on here regarding this I'm a bit skeptical.

Anybody have any information on this?

First, you need to know how much the glass shop will charge you and how much you are willing to spend.

Then, figure out how much time you will probably spend on cutting the plexi yourself and how much materials (extra plexi when you mess up cutting the last hole and extra drill/router bits) will cost. Figure how much money this time is worth to you. Also figure into this figure the fact that the glass shop will do a better job.

Finally, compare the two and take the lowest cost.

Personally, I agree with your dad, since the plexi will be one of the more visible parts of your cab.

Good luck!

[blacktiger]

I had zero experience doing mine.  I made a new protective overlay for my NBA JAm Te machine.  Quite easy to do.  I used a wood boring bit that was a tad smaller than the hole needed to be (I did not have one the exact size) and then I used a file to finish the hole off.  Used one that is flat on one side and round on the other.  for the corners I used a recip saw and then finished with a file.  Worked perfect!   Identical to the old one minus the scratches, burn marks and suck.  Took about 2 hrs.  I went to a plastics shop and they wanted 10$ a hole.  We were talkong over 200$ for the job.  I bought the sheet for 12$.  Good Luck

[FractalWalk]

First, I thought the way to cut the plexiglass is by using a drill (not a router) and using a forstner bit with the drill is reverse.

That's one way but it certainly isn't the only way.  I have used a drill press (forward speed, normal bit) and I have used a router with a template bit for bigger holes.  Both worked great.  

The advantage of the router is that you are guiding along your already drilled holes in the panel and so your cuts match exactly. If you drill the plexi separate from the panel then you better have some pretty precise measures and cuts for them to line up perfectly.



I'm just worried that perhaps that holes won't be as smooth or something and that is why everybody is telling me to do it by myself.

I don't think quality is the issue. It's just that it's very simple to do so why pay someone else to do it?



What size flush trim router bit is required?

Size doesn't matter!!     Actually it doesn't, however, you want to be careful with terminology here.  

A TRIM BIT or LAMINATE BIT is a straight bit with an arbor on the bottom of the bit. Normaly these are used on exposed edges and not holes (i.e. cabinet sides not CP holes).  To use it to trim a hole, requires a pre-drilled hole in the plexi big enough to slip the bit through. To use this bit, secure your plexi to your panel, drill a hole wide enough to fit the bit through, then guide your router so that the arbor rides along against your panel edge, cutting and identical path in the plexi that lays on top.  

A TEMPLATE BIT or PATTERN BIT is a straight bit with an arbor on TOP.  This requires no pre-drilled hole as the bottom of the bit will drill the hole for you. To use this bit, secure the plexi on top of your panel, flip it over and sandwich the plexi on a scrap piece of wood.  Then from the bottom side of the panel (now on top) drill thorugh the plexi with the router and guide your router so that the arbor rides along against your panel edge, cutting and identical path in the plexi that lays below.  


(pattern bit on left, trim bit on right)

[sofakng]

Very helpful!!

It seems to me that everything can summed up as:

"Have the glass shop do it only if its cheap, otherwise do it yourself with a flush trim bit, it's easy."

Also, template/pattern bit > trim/laminate bit?  If I use a template/pattern bit I don't need to drill a hole so I have one bit that does everything.

Correct?

[Nannuu]

I don't think you want to run a forstner bit in reverse.  You can do a hole saw in reverse for plexi but a forstner should be run forward.

With a forstner the teeth tear away the edge and the blades remove the rest of the hole.  You need to have the blades running forward to be effective.
A hole saw is hollow which is why you can run it in reverse.

Can anyone back me up on that?  I think that is correct.

[FractalWalk]

Also, template/pattern bit > trim/laminate bit?  If I use a template/pattern bit I don't need to drill a hole so I have one bit that does everything.

I wouldn't say that the pattern/template bit does everything, but it certainly will do what you want without having to pre-drill a hole.  

Can you use a pattern bit to trim laminate? That depends upon the situation. If you are trimming an unattached piece and you have freedom to flip it over then yes you can trim laminate with a pattern bit. But if the wood is affixed (i.e. kitchen counter) and only the laminated side is available to you, then you would need to use a trim bit.

My guess is that for most arcade projects the pattern bit will suffice for trimming as well. I actually have both.

[Ken Layton]

When I worked for Capitol Amusement, we had Speedy Auto Glass cut all our plexi/lexan for us. Price was very reasonable and they do excellent work. They have a jig that securely clamps the plexi/lexan (no matter how big or little it is) and gets a perfect straight cut every time. Then I drill the joystick/button holes myself after picking up the cut-to-size plex.

[sofakng]

Ok, tonight I purchased this from Home Depot:

Oldham Viper Router Bits
Laminate & Trim
Double Flute / Laminate Flush
Carbine Tipped - 1/4" Shank
3/8" Cut Diameter - 1/2" Cut Depth
"For smooth, accurate trim cuts in laminates.  Shielded ball bearing pilot.  Use for template cutting on router table."

Did I purchase the right tool?

Will I be able to trim the edge of the control panel as well as my holes?  I'm planning to order the plexiglass slightly larger than the control panel so I could then (hopefully) flush trim it so the edges are perfectly aligned.

[spystyle]

For those reading this thread that have table saws, I have had perfect results cutting plexi with my table saw, I set the blade's height 1/8" (for 1/8" plexi) and feed the plexi through the blade slowly, while applying pressure on  the plexi and it works great.

Groovy?
Craig

[FractalWalk]

Did I purchase the right tool?

It sounds like the bearing is on the bottom of the bit and so you will need to drill a pilot hole before routing out your CP holes, but it should work.  Just be careful drilling the pilot holes.


I have had perfect results cutting plexi with my table saw . . .

As have I.

[sofakng]

Was I correct in ordering my plexiglass a little larger than my control panel?

Will I be able to trim the edge of the plexiglass to the edge of the control panel?  (to make them both the same exact size)

[johnnysmitch]

Was I correct in ordering my plexiglass a little larger than my control panel?

Will I be able to trim the edge of the plexiglass to the edge of the control panel?  (to make them both the same exact size)

Yeah, that sounds like a good plan there.  Just make sure you do everything in order tho - you'll probably want to lay your plex on you CP (with your template/artwork/whatever in between), and drill a couple pilot holes through the plex where buttons/controls will be, and securely fasted the plex down with a few screws through these holes.  You can then cut the plex flush to the CP with the router (might want to rough cut it fairly close first, so that you don't kill your router bit cutting away too much material - try not to cut with more than half the diameter of the bit at any time to keep it clean and smooth).  Once the plex is cut flush to the CP, go ahead and cut the button holes out. leaving the ones with the screws holding the whole mess together for last (probably use clamps for those last holes).  Good luck.

On a side note, to those who have used plex/lexan overlays, have you ever tried the heat trick on the edges?  I've heard that using a heat gun, you can get the edges to 'melt' smooth, then even polish the edges up (with lexan I know you can even get a polished edge to carry light - ever see those exit signs with the glowing edges?)

[fredster]

I drill thru the wood to size first.  Then I put on the plexy and screw it down in several places.

After that, I take a 5/8 or 3/4 spade drill and carefully rough out the center.  Then I drop a drimmel tool with a small sanding drum on it.  It eats the plexi up.  Keep circling it until it's the same size as the inside hole.

I never tried a router.  I may do that next time, but I didn't have a bit like that either.

[sofakng]

Just make sure you do everything in order tho - you'll probably want to lay your plex on you CP (with your template/artwork/whatever in between

I'm confused about why I would need my artwork in between the plexiglass and the mdf board?

I used my template to drill the holes in the mdf so if I clamp the plexiglass to the mdf, can't I just follow the button holes?

What I figured I'd do is this:

1. Sandwich plexiglass between junk mdf and my control panel mdf (with button holes already cutout).
2. Clamp everything together
3. Turn boards over so plexiglass is now at the bottom of my mdf board holes.
4. Use router to trim the edges of the plexiglass to make it the same size as mdf board.
5. Drill pilot holes into plexiglass.
6. Use router to trim/cut-out button holes from plexiglass.
7. Turn boards back over so plexiglass is on top.
8. Use countersink bit (in reverse) to countersink a LITTLE into four corners of the plexiglass.
9. Use drill bit (in reverse) to melt a hole through countersink spots.
10. Drill holes so I can screw the plexiglass to the mdf board.

I'm not sure why I would need my artwork if I did it the way I mentioned above.

Perhaps an alternative would be to clamp boards together, trim the edges so they are the same size, then countersink/drill screw holes to secure the plexiglass onto the wood.

Does that sound like a good way to do it?  Any other suggestions about my plan?

[johnnysmitch]

ah, i forgot that you have already drilled all your holes in your CP.  In that case, then yeah, I think you've got a pretty good plan.  Probably gonna want to drill/secure the plex to the board before you rout the outside edges though, so that you won't have clamps interfering with routing the outside (it's a pain to have to re-set the clamps so you can rout around them)

[sofakng]

So would you suggest countersinking + drilling my four corner screws into my plexiglass onto my mdf?

These screws will permanately be there -- unless there is a better way to permanently secure the plexiglass to the mdf?

[ThePaul]

Yeah it seems like using the screws you will end up using permanently to clamp the plexi down is a good idea.

Did you read the message from the other guy who mentioned the problem using a flush trim bit to cut the 3" hole in plexi for the trackball? It was in your other thread at the bottom of the page. It has me a little worried as I am going to be doing this step next as well.

[sofakng]

Ok, I'm going to be cutting my plexiglass tonight for the control panel...

As mentioned above, the first step is to secure the plexiglass onto the mdf using screws.  I'm not sure how to do this or how many screws to use...

Should I use a couple of screws on the topside of the plexiglass around the edge?  How many screws should I use?

Should I drill in reverse with a small bit?  Should I countersink? (with drill in reverse)

[sofakng]

Anybody?

I'm going home to cut it in about 2 hours... I'd hate to screw up a $15 piece of plexiglass by not placing the screws correctly (or worse yet, cracking the plexiglass).

[paigeoliver]

The price a "glass shop" is going to charge for this would vary WILDLY.

I work in a "glass shop" and we charge like $30 for a hole. BUT we only do mirrors and shower doors and don't even deal with plexiglass.

Although cutting a hole in a mirror is a heck of a lot harder than cutting a hole in plexiglass (and they always seem to be big old 10 foot mirrors, that then need to be installed in a bathroom on the second floor of some house behind a twisty staircase).