Installing t-nuts/levellers onto edge of MDF possible?

[Blakey]

Ok, my cocktail cab actually looks like a cab now, not a collection of panels and boxes of parts.

Originally I hadn't planned to install feet, but then I found some small t-nuts (1/4 thread 5/16 shank), and eventually some feet to suit.

I test installed a nut onto a scrap piece of MDF, but as I pounded it in the edges started to spread (18mm laminated both sides). Second time around I drilled 2mm holes for the spikes, but to no avail.

My question to all:
1) Should I piss off the levellers and just felt the feet as it'll look better without them and be more stable (on a level floor)?
2) Or should I snip off all the spikes and just glue the nut in place around the shank and let gravity do the rest?

Picture of cab minus control panels below

[Blakey]

Oh, another quickie: I received my chrome t-moulding yesterday (Thanks Richard from t-molding.com). I have already cut a 1.6mm (0.065") slot, but when I tried to insert some it was damn tight, and then when I pulled it out I could see the edges of the slot were abraded and missing some material, as if it wasn't wide enough. Is this normal?

[MonitorGuru]

Absolutely NOT!!!

You can split MDF simply using a tiny electric brad nailer (nails about the size of 4 staples, straightened out + glued together--in other words tiny)

Never put anything into MDF on it's edge.  I've had oak laminate MDF splt nailing a backer board on (bookcases)  That side would split the first time someone leaned against the cabinet side or you tried to push it to the wall.

Only go into the flat side of MDF.. There's TONS of strength there.

[Wade]

I second that!

Wade