Mounting a trackball on a wood panel? (versus mounting a joystick)

[sofakng]

Ok, I'm getting ready to start mounting my joysticks, buttons, spinner, and trackball to my control panel.

As for the control panel, I'm going to be using overlay artwork and then plexiglass so I need everything on top to be completely flush.

I'm pretty sure I've gotten everything straightened out with mounting the joysticks.  I will be using #10 T-Nuts on the top with bolts from the bottom.  The joystick mounting base will be recessed into the bottom of the panel (to give the joystick more height on the top).

Now, for the trackball, what do I need to mount it?  I'm using a Happs Controls 3" Golden Tee trackball.  I've also ordered the mounting plate for it.

Do I even need the mounting plate?

What kind of tools will I need to mount this?

What kind of nuts and bolts will I need?

[simplygriff]

I haven't mounted mine yet but the Happ Trackball mounting plate comes with all the nuts and bolts you need to mount it.  As far as I can tell all you will need to do is drill the holes for it.  To get it flush though you will have to rout out a 1/8" deep area as big as the mounting plate around the Trackball hole.  At least this is how I think it will work.  I have my TB and Plate but Haven't hooked anything up yet nor have I started the removable panel I'm going to mount them in.

[mahuti]

Yeah, that's the way it works. Rout out the hole for the mounting plate.

If you don't have an actual router, you can get a router attachment & bit for a dremel for about $40.

An actual router is about $60+.  The average would be around $90 for a decent home model.

[FractalWalk]

You'll need to drill the four corner holes for the mounting plate studs and then also entirely cut out a large square area to allow the TB to mount to the plate.  Then to make it flush, route out a large square area the size of the mounting plate.

Blue = routed area
Green = stud holes
Red =  cut-out area

[sofakng]

Yeah, that's the way it works. Rout out the hole for the mounting plate.

If you don't have an actual router, you can get a router attachment & bit for a dremel for about $40.

An actual router is about $60+.  The average would be around $90 for a decent home model.

Thanks for the replies everybody!

My father actually has a couple of routers.  What router bit would I need to cut the recess?

Also, will the mounting plate studs be long enough to go through the length of the wood?  I'm going to be using 5/8" MDF.

Lastly, will the trackball be too low since I'm using 1/8" Plexiglass on top of my overlay? (which is on top of the wood)  Can I do anything about that?

[FractalWalk]

You use a standard straight bit to route out the area.
The stud will fit 5/8" just fine.

Although it's personal preference, I don't think the trackball will sit too low. If you think it does, you're only alternative with the mounting plate is to have it sit flush to the plexi. That would require not routing the plate flush to the wood , but perhaps raising it to sit flush to the plexi. You would also have to cut a square out of the plexi to fit the plate.  Yikes!

[depressd]

Here is a couple of pics for ya....

[depressd]

and

[sofakng]

Excellent, thank you!

Looks easy to install...

As for recessing the mounting plate on the top, do I need a special size routing bit?  I'm not very familar with routers but my father says he has several bits that will do what I need, but he wasn't sure what a "standard straight" bit was.

Is it called something else?  (do they come in certain sizes?)

[FractalWalk]

When I say a "standard" straight bit, I mean a regular, plain ole, vanilla, nothing fancy, run-of-the-mill, ordinary, typical, mainstream, conventional, middle-of-the-road, commonplace straigt bit.

They come in different diameters , but just about any size will do.

[sofakng]

Ok, any suggestions as to the depth of the recess to cut into the wood? (for the trackball and/or perfect 360 joysticks)

Is there any way to tell how deep you are cutting with a bit like that or do you have to guess/keep trying different depths?

[FractalWalk]

Ok, any suggestions as to the depth of the recess to cut into the wood? (for the trackball and/or perfect 360 joysticks)

For the trackball you want to make the plate flush to the wood when it drops in so you would recess the top the thickness of the mounting plate.

For the 360's you would only need to route from the bottom if you want your joystick length to be longer (the deeper the route, the higher the joystick sits). The proper depth is a matter of personal preference. However, make sure you leave enough MDF to provide adequte strength (at least 1/4" -3/8" ??)

Is there any way to tell how deep you are cutting with a bit like that or do you have to guess/keep trying different depths?

The router lets you lock in your depth. So once you set it, that is the depth of your cut until you reset it. I would set depth on a scrap piece of wood first and see if it is correct before routing your panel.

[Doc-]

I used a different method involving no plate and no routing.  Some may find it less elegant but it works just fine:

 - Start with an Betson/Imperial Trackball which has a solid case (see pictures).
 - Trace the outline of the case carefully on the wood.
 - Cut the outline out with a jigsaw.
 - Buy 4 of the 1" or smaller small angle irons (shelf supports) from Home Depot.  The ones I purchased were pre-drilled.
 - Pick non-vital areas on your trackball case and drill a matching hole so you can bolt the angle irons into the top of the trackball case.  Set them at appropriate depth so the trackball is flush with your panel top.
 - Drill and screw the angle irons into your panel as well.
 - Put the bottom back on the trackball.
 - Cover with artwork and plexiglass, or vinyl, or whatever.

 There are some pictures of my trackball panel about 1/2 way down the web page here:
   http://www.beersmith.com/mame/panels.htm

  You can see the angle irons quite clearly in the bottom shot.  If you cover it with artwork and lexan you should not see the outlines - though you can always fill them with wood filler from the top if desired.  This mounting system also lets you easily remove the bottom of the trackball case for servicing.

Doc-
   

[simplygriff]

Your cabinet is really nice Doc-.  I'm using a similar idea for mine. (not as many panels)  Thanks for the inspiration.  

Does it fell awkward or have you had any problems with those 3 buttons above the Trackball?  I was going to mount mine the same way but a lot of people suggested against it.  Any info would be great!
-G