Defender joystick solution?

[Apollo]

Ok I know this is not going to be good info for most of you but if you are a true Defender fanatic you might be able to use this.
I have just made and drilled a metal control panel just for Defender. All it is is a 2mm mild steel CP approx 66cm wide approx 33cm deep with a 90 degree bend at the front with approx 12cm drop.
I spent a lot of time trying to find the perfect Defender joystick and spending $50US or more really seemed to be just too much.
I have installed a MsPac/Galag reunion joystick sort of side on i.e. the short side is left to right rather than up and down ( hope you understand ) and it turns out that the reverse button can be perfectly positioned and the slot cut for the joystick makes the perfect restrictor. I know this is only good for metal CP enthusiasts but hey any help is good help, yes?

[Lilwolf]

Its good to know... but I didn't think it would fit

is the reverse button in the EXACT location it is suppost to be?

If so COOL!

of course... I have 3 now... and 2 are going up for same as soon as I get orginized.  I might want to sell them soon before this thread becomes sticky!  

[NoOne=NBA=]

I used a 4-way leaf-switch knockoff that I got in a bulk deal for mine.
It had the really small size (Defender/Joust/Moon Patrol) knob on it, but had a long stick.
I cut a corner off it, routed a slot into the CP intead of the usual hole for the stick and bottom mounted the stick so the knob stuck up the perfect height for me.

I don't know if the dimensions are "accurate" to a true Defender panel, but they are comfortable to me, and work well.
I think my Reverse button may be a little closer to the stick than the original, but I never liked the reach the original anyway.

[Xiaou2]

 One possible problem...

 If your trying to restrict the up/down movment with just the thin metal control panel top...   Eventually, there will be times when you or someone else makes a slightly diagnol move - and the metal will saw bits of the stick off.   This will happpen a lot sooner than you might expect.

(I actually had to replace a busted 2way with an 8way micro on a galaga at an arcade i was at.   I removed the extra micros... and hoped the metal oval would suffice.    The people tore the poor stick to shreads as the up/down movement grinded it like a cheese grater... so I was forced to cut a larger circular hole into the metal panel... thus allowing all 8 directions, but only regiestering the 2.  They didnt have any 2ways availlable... but in retrospec, i feel kinda guilty.  Too bad that someone hasnt made a quaility 2 way stick)


  If you had a thicker restricter - like 1cm,   youd have less wear.  Or even make the restrictor (same 1cm thickness)  out of heavy duty plastic.  (this was done on the Race Drivin shifter plate)

  I got my hands on a real defender stick - and man it is poorly made.   Theres all kinds of metal wear from poor design.  

  To make a better design - Id follow the Spyhunter Shifter (and simular shifter designs)... where they put heavy duty rubber bumpers on either extreme positions.... so that when you slam the joy from left to right... it absorbs into the rubber, instead of grinding metal to bits.

[patrickl]

If you don't think about the money, would the Defender repro stick be any good? I was thinking about buying the Williams repro stick from Arcadeshop ($49) Would the metal wear on it realy be an issue (In a home environment)?

I now have a "Ms Pac/Galaga reunion" stick restricted to 2-way in a wood panel. Works fine, but I don't like the stick very much.

[NoOne=NBA=]

You should be able to use a round rubber grommet (like the ones that are designed to allow wiring to come through a hole in a metal plate).
If the round one is pushed into an oversized slot, it should make the slot the right size, but prevent metal to metal contact.
The only problem I see with this is that the rubber might make the stick hang just a bit.
A little silicone spray should take care of that though.

I don't think I'll have any real problems with mine because:
1) It is rubbing against 3/4" thick poplar.
2) I suck at Defender, so I don't play it that much.

[Stormy151]

If only...

Oscar would do a run of restrictors again...

*SIGH*

nudge, nudge

 

[Apollo]

I hadn't actually thought there would be that much wear on the stick but I guess you are right. I'll have to try and coat the steel on the hole with something to stop that happening. Hmmm what to use I wonder......?

[spidermonkey]

How about getting some very small black rubber vacuum line and running a slice down one side of the hose to open it up. Spread open the hose and squirt a little glue in and then slip the hose over and around the edge of the hole. Same idea as that thin vinyle door edge protector molding that it used on car doors but I figure the rubber vacuum line will be more pliable to fit around a small oblong hole without bunching up or kinking around the somewhat rounded but tight corners.
     Just a thought

[Xiaou2]

if you try to use a thin lining - your stick shaft will eat thru it.

 this is why you need a thick 'guide'.   The more surface area - the less chance there will be cutting/wearing.

 heh - im looking at the crappy 2 way now...

   it has a thick metal oval hole to restrict the motion.  (not on the Control panel - but the assembly itself)   Seems there is no wear on the shaft - due to the thickness of the restrictor.   However,  there is a major design problem I now see....

  The main Pivot Shafts have no thick "bearings",  just 2 small holes in thin steel.   These holes have become ovular from wear.. and now allow the main shaft to travel vertically.  This in turn has made the restrictor hole wear - thus its almost like an 8 way!

  The stick is a sloppy as well.  Seems that they made it so the main shaft can be removed from the base via an e-clip... however... that makes for some 'play'  which has led to the hole wearing and even more 'play'.  

  And finally - the leaf actuator is just a thin metal post that sits between 2 leaf springs.   The heavy duty springs have worn the shaft on both sides.. to the point that its nearly impossible to make the switches contact.  

 What a disaster of a controller!

 lol
   

[Apollo]

It would be great to see Happ modify the MsPac/Galag 4 way slightly. All that would have to be added is some sort of restriction and Bob's yer uncle a great 2 way for about $20! Someone tell them quick!

[Apollo]

OK so I spent a lot of time looking at the MsPac/Galag 4 way last night and it should be pretty easy to install a home made restrictor. I'm thinking of cutting some 5mm plastic or possibly lexan ( perspex over here ) in to 2 strips and glueing or bolting them to the top surface of the joystick housing so they restrict the joystick to 2 directions only. Anyone see any obvious problems with this?

[Tailgunner]

heh - im looking at the crappy 2 way now...

 What a disaster of a controller!

Arcadeshop has rebuild kits for the originals, around $35 as I remember. As far as it being a poor design, I'd have to disagree. Could it be better, sure. But to be fair, yours has probably seen 70,000+ games of Defender. From an engineering standpoint, I think they did a pretty good job of designing a stick that would hold up to years of heavy use, while keeping the materials and manufacturing costs to a minimum.