Sparks from under the anode cap

[XtraSmiley]

Like the title says I picked up my newest game, a two player sitdown Steel Talons.  Problem is there are sparks coming from under the Anode Cap.  This causes the screens to flicker and a bad smell to come from the back of my machine.  Both monitors are doing it.  Is it b/c the cap is not sitting firmly on the monitor?  I hope so as this sounds like an easy fix, once I get the courage to discharge the monitors!

Second question, one monitor is WAY brighter than the other.  They both have controls on the back, but I didn't see a contrast.  Does anyone know what the original ST monitor was and where the contrast control is?  

Thanks a buch guys!

[SirPeale]

The first does sound like the anode cap isn't on correctly, but I'd wait for Ken Layton to speak up, and not take my word for it.  I'd also recommend not using it until then!

About the second, it seems perhaps your screen control is turned up high.  Try turning it down a tiny bit.

[Ken Layton]

Was this game stored in a damp environment like a basement, garage, or near the ocean?

Your problem could be something simple as the metal clip under the anode rubber cup is not fully insterted in the hole in the tube. It could also be caused by moisture in/around the rubber suction cup that has combined with dust/dirt to make a conductive arcing dirt track that will actually etch and burn the monitor tube glass and the rubber suction cup. With the monitor power off and the tube fully discharged, disconnect the anode rubber suction cup/clip from the tube. Take a dry clean rag or paper towel and carefully wipe a 3" diameter area around the hole. Do not use any kind of cleaners on the tube! Now get some 99% rubbing alcohol and clean that rubber suction cup good (both sides!). Reinstall and turn on the monitor and see how it performs now.

As to the picture being too bright the contrast control does not control brightness. Look for a "Black Level" (a.k.a. brightness) control on the monitor board. The "Screen" control on the flyback transformer is a coarse brightness control.

[XtraSmiley]

Thanks man, when I get some sort of discharging tool I'll try it!  So far I've just used a hammer (not to bang, but b/c it is long) to push the suction cups down and it seems to have stopped most of the sparks.

What is the flyback transformer and where is it located?

Thanks guys!

[Ken Layton]

Follow the heavy red wire from the anode suction cup. It goes only one place: straight to the flyback transformer. The flyback is the source of the 20,000 volts necessary to operate the picture tube.

[SirPeale]

You can make a discharge tool with a flathead screwdriver, an alligator clip and a length of wire.

[XtraSmiley]

OK, I f**ked up.  Here's what I did.  Steel Talons has two parts to it, the main section with the monitors and a rear section with two seats, two speakers, two seat thumpers (these are cool, all games should have them) and a light for the back marquee.  When I went to work on the game today, I plugged the power for the lst player into the seat thumper, then instead of the 2nd player, I accidentally plugged the light plug into the player 2 side.  It totaly killed the 2nd player side.  Now, when I power up the board PCB and the monitor don't even light up.  I checked the 5 fuses in the power supply and they "look" good.  I even swapped them out for the fuses in the 1st player side to be sure and the first player side still worked while the second was dead.  Did I just fry my PCB?  (God I hope not) or did I just kill some fuse I can't see?  Did I kill the power supply?  How can I test?  Does anyone leave near the Baltimore/Washington area that wants to come by and help out for the payment of some beers?  Any help is appreciated!