tmolding alternative?????

[nikfaulkner]

i stumbled across this why looking for chrome tmolding

http://www.tapeease.com/peel_&_stick_decorative_trim.htm
and wondered if it would be good enough to use instaed of tmolding? i would imagine
it would need proper glue.

any thoughts?


nik



Edit by moderator: fixed URL

[flampoo]

Looks convenient... But the edges look too rounded. I wonder if it would stay flush against the wood? I also wonder how strong the adhesive is. These are similiar to batten strips.

[MameMe]

I may be the only person in this forum but I won't be using T-Molding on my cabinet.  The only thing I will do to the 3/4" MDF is route a nice small rounded edge to both sides of the wood.  I think it actually looks nice, and I don't have to worry about a groove and buying t-molding.

I'm not really concerned about the price, but I thought I'd be a little different.

[Spaced Invader]

Just fixing your link...

http://www.tapeease.com/peel_&_stick_decorative_trim.htm

[pathdoc2]

I've been using a router to round off the edges of my MDF sides as well.  I find T molding can get scuffed up pretty quick.

[MameMe]

I've been using a router to round off the edges of my MDF sides as well.  I find T molding can get scuffed up pretty quick.

Pathdoc2...Do you have any pictures?

[patrickl]

i stumbled across this why looking for chrome tmolding
...

Any particular reason why you're not using regular chrome T-Molding? I have some from (T-molding.com) and it looks reel purdy. I think it's a tad too wide for 3/4" though (and it cannot be trimmed down).

[DrewKaree]

I coulda swore someone posted a recent pic of the bit you'd use, but in doing some research, I found a good bit to use for this purpose.  It's called a convex edge bit.  It'll shape the entire thing without having to make two passes for each edge.  

For a picture of this, go to www.rockler.com or www.grizzly.com.  Make sure you spend the extra and get the CARBIDE version.  HSS will dull too quick.

[rdagger]

http://www.tapeease.com/peel_&_stick_decorative_trim.htm

That website has some cool alternatives.  Has anyone used the aluminum t-molding?  Do you think the real metal t-molding would bend properly on a cab's 90 degree angles?

[spidermonkey]

I'm not ranting but I don't quite understand why some people are always looking for ways to replace or resemble t-molding. The stuff is pretty darn cheap, it comes in all kinds of colors, sizes and surface textures. It's easily obtained on Ebay and various sites that specialize in it. Its very light so shipping charges aren't an issue. I'm all for finding alternatives when it comes to controls and pretty much anything related to cab building because it widens our range of choices..but t-molding ?  What could possibly look better and more authentic then your favorite color of brand new t-molding to finish off your cab ? Especially since the stuff is so cheap. If its because people don't want to buy a router then just rent one for the day. Maybe I'm being close minded but I just don't understand the need for alternatives when the perfect, tried and true solution is right under my nose. Good ol'e plastic t-molding.  
PS. No I don't work for a t-molding manufacturer. I'm just trying to figure out why some cab builders are steering away from it

[MameMe]

I have to disagree with SpiderMonkey.  At least here in Canada I am finding it difficult to get a decent deal on plain t-molding.  Our Home Depot doesn't even have the stuff on their shelves.  The best options for me are 1) eBay or 2) t-molding.com.

Ebay:  They have competitive pricing at around $1.00CDN/foot.  Shipping is arounf $10CDN for 25', plus the border duties which usually kill us.  

T-Molding.com:  I think they are actually the same people selling the stuff on ebay, so its fairly safe to assume the same as above.  

I know there is a company in Canada that resells for Happs, but I heard that Happs t-molding is no good.  I'm sure getting the t-molding from Happs would be better for me as a Canadian and cheaper.

Any thoughts?  

[flampoo]

Our Home Depot doesn't even have the stuff on their shelves.  The best options for me are 1) eBay or 2) t-molding.com.

None of the Home Depot or Lowes stores carry the kind of t-molding needed for arcades. Everyone is basically in the same boat. I've purchased from Outwater before. They're a lot cheaper than t-molding.com and certainly less expensive than Happs.

http://208.245.181.35/cgi-bin/worderc?confc=TEES

[rdagger]

I heard that Happs t-molding is no good.

I was trying to find 5/8" chrome and Happ is the only vendor I could find that sells quantities under 250 feet.  Anyone try the 5/8" chrome from Happ, is it no good?

[dmsuchy]

I would also like o see some examples of rounded and painted MDF. T-molding may be cheap but no t-molding at all is cheaper.

[Sylentwulf]

MY personal problem with T-molding isn't the price of the molding, I like the look of it, I have a router. Everything is fine EXCEPT:

From what I've read on here, the router bit to install the t-molding is $30 and a fairly specialized/hard to find bit.

There is NO WAY I'm buying a $30 Router bit for ONE use on ONE application. When it comes time for me to need t-molding, if I can't find someone to borrow that bit from or find a cheap alternative, I won't be using t-molding.

[MameMe]

There is NO WAY I'm buying a $30 Router bit for ONE use on ONE application

That's another reason I may just round my corners with a router.  I NEVER EVER do wood work.   This is my first project and buying a bit which will sit next to my various other tools collecting dust would be a waste.

After rounding my corners with the router, I actually may tape off straight edges and paint the edge a different color.  Making it appear like a trim you know.  I'll have to practice on some scrap wood first but that's what I was thinking if I needed that "color contrast" feel.

[patrickl]

A special bit to create the rounded edges on MDF is not that much cheaper than a slot cutter. I paid $16 for #5341 at MLCS and a 3/8"round over bit costs $15. You can rent/borrow a router.

Another problem might be paint chipping of on the rounded edges. MDF is pretty hard and paint will chip off quite easily. Especially on leading edges.

[spidermonkey]

Either way you're going to have to buy a router bit whether you cut a slot or round the edges. Both bits are around the same price so you might as well get a slot cutter so you can use t-molding. When you're done with the bit just sell it to someone here and recoupe some of the cost. If  someones not willing to fork over a few bucks for a measley bit then I'm afraid they're involved in the wrong hobby.  Biulding cabs isn't exactly a cheap hobby. You can cut costs by shopping around for supplys and tools but you HAVE to be willing to spend a little if you want your cab to look halfway decent. You can always tell when someone cut corners and cheaps out when building their cab because it always shows up in the finished (or should I say unfinished) product.  Its not like you have a deadline to meet to get the cab finished by so if it takes a bit longer to save up some money to do it the right way then so be it. The finished product will be well worth it.   Now go order that router bit....GO !!

[DrewKaree]

I think you missed something here.  You say

...I don't quite understand why some people are always looking for ways to replace or resemble t-molding

but you never asked anyone why.  Don't you think there actually MIGHT be some reason someone doesn't want to use T-molding?  I've got a real specific and purposeful reason for NOT using it, but you never asked me.  In stating what you did, you come across as "ranting" precisely BECAUSE you can't conceive of a reason NOT to use the stuff.

The stuff is pretty darn cheap, it comes in all kinds of colors, sizes and surface textures. It's easily obtained on Ebay and various sites that specialize in it. Its very light so shipping charges aren't an issue.

Cost isn't an issue for my use, and I'm sure those who DON'T wish to use t-molding don't consider it a factor either.  Colors, sizes, and textures aren't the be-all, end-all either.  I plan on having colored trim on my cab edges, but it ain't gonna be molding.  Texture would only serve to screw up my edge treatment, and size will be taken care of by routing it the way I want to.

I'm all for finding alternatives when it comes to controls and pretty much anything related to cab building because it widens our range of choices..but t-molding ?  What could possibly look better and more authentic then your favorite color of brand new t-molding to finish off your cab?

so by that logic, you support the troops, but not what they are doing....or you voted FOR the 87 billion before you voted against it.  Your own statement of "it widens our range of choices" is INSTANTLY contradicted by "but t-molding?".  You CAN'T POSSIBLY be all for a range of choices, but want to rule something out for some inane reason.

Especially since the stuff is so cheap. If its because people don't want to buy a router then just rent one for the day. Maybe I'm being close minded but I just don't understand the need for alternatives when the perfect, tried and true solution is right under my nose. Good ol'e plastic t-molding.

Please! I find it condescending that you felt the need to come back to price.  If YOU think price is the primary reason someone would want to look for an alternative, then maybe YOU are the one who's "involved in the wrong hobby".  Ever wonder how spinners became so easy and cheap to make OR buy?  It's because someone didn't sit on their @$$ and say "I don't know WHY you guys just don't buy one on E-bay.  They can be found just as cheap as making one yourself".  Thank God  YOUR attitude towards innovative thinking isn't more pervasive.  Thinking about it now, you wouldn't even HAVE this message board to come to if someone hadn't seen this as a great idea instead of "buying it premade because it's CHEAPER".  

PS. No I don't work for a t-molding manufacturer. I'm just trying to figure out why some cab builders are steering away from it

SPARE ME your phony concern.  If you really want to figure it out, it's easy.  ASK.  You came back and posted again, and AGAIN you go back to price.  Lemme tell ya, I'm a bit cheesed off by those who would dare to say I don't want to do something because of the price when you haven't even investigated what the hell you're talking about.  The bit I'm using cost me $65, AND I own a slot cutting bit, so stuff your price argument.  I have tools that cost me a small fortune and the experience to use them.  I'm not naive enough to think that everyone in the world can easily use the same tools that I can, so I don't look down on them or make backhanded putdowns and try to disguise them by phrasing them as "I'm just wondering why".  

Maybe you'd be happy to see a world full of TrashCade's.

[patrickl]

drewkaree,

Spidermonkey reacted on the 4 or 5 posts in this thread that were talking about cutting costs by rounding and painting MDF instead of using T-molding. The primary (only) reason they gave for using this method was to make it cheap. He (and myself in the post before his) pointed out that the cost difference might not be as huge as people assumed.

That's all, so just take it easy ...

[spidermonkey]

Sorry Drew but your post doesn't even deserve a response. Get some sleep tonight and maybe you'll be in a better mood tomorrow.  

[DrewKaree]

Read over the thread again.  Specifically, see post #9.  You'll see you're incorrect.  "Cheap", "shipping costs" (price, again), "buy" or "rent" a router (price, yet AGAIN).

The ONLY person who brought up price before he posted stated "I'm not really concerned about the price, but I thought I'd be a little different." (my emphasis added).

It was a discussion of alternatives, attachment methods, ease of doing so, and looks.  You yourself first posted on the looks of what you used, and didn't even talk about price issues.  Your post on price issues came AFTER the thread was lead in that direction.  The post that started the focus on price came across as a putdown for trying a new concept AND poorly researched/thought out, as evidenced by MameMe's immediate reply that t-molding costs, for him and others like him, WERE, in fact, quite high.  

Price became the direction this thread got pointed towards after his FIRST post, taking it away from the original title "tmolding alternative??"  I DO understand why price COULD be an issue to some, but to make an dismissive post as to why anyone would consider anything BUT the "ol' tried and true" and assume it's a cost issue is insensitive, close-minded, and irrelevant to requests about A-L-T-E-R-N-A-T-I-V-E-S

Some of the posts are regarding the difficulty of installing the stuff, therefore, they're looking for an alternative.  Those folks' primary concern IS NOT price.  He bypassed those concerns and focused on the "looking to save money" angle.  I found it foolish and derogatory towards people he had no knowledge of.  By ignoring their concerns AND assuming they're just cheap might lead a person who is DYNAMITE in areas we have no clue in, to never offer his help or ideas to avoid being shot down in such a fashion again.  I think it was irresponsible to add that post without pausing to think that there COULD be an alternative (and a GOOD ONE, at that) that he hadn't thought of.  

In his own words "I'm being close minded but I just don't understand the need for alternatives when the perfect, tried and true solution is right under my nose."

That was taken from his first post, where price became THE issue.  "Perfect" and "tried and true" ARE part of a close-minded statement, especially when the idea of the thread was specific in intent about "alternatives".  

I'm not against what YOU said, patrick, as you were explaining the REAL difference (as compared to the perceived difference in price) of the two bits.  Your post didn't come across as "you're a cheapskate and if you don't go with my idea, you're an idiot".  They were also added AFTER the thread was taken in that direction.  

I AM annoyed that on a board that has some fantastically innovative ideas, someone would wish to stifle further creativity and possible NEW "tried and true" ideas because of their own preconceived notions as to why someone is trying to do something.  

I've already given some ideas of things that have contributed to this community even though "perfect tried and true solutions" already existed.  Here's one final one.  Exchange tmolding and alternatives with mame32 and front end.  

Why does someone need to create a different front end when mame32 should fit everyone's needs?  It's perfect.  It's the "tried and true" solution.  If you're not using windows, you should be, because mame32 is the easiest solution out there.

If it were as you said, patrick, I wouldn't have posted my views against what he said.  After looking at #9, you should see exactly what I'm talking about.  Sitting idly by while someone says something like that allows that person to continue thinking there's nothing wrong with what they are saying when, in fact, it might be highly offensive to others.  That's not something I'm willing to do.  His remarks merited my response, whether you realize it or not.

[spidermonkey]

 Oh my GAWD! Talk about over analyzing a post.Would someone please put a sock in his mouth ? All I did was ask a question because I wondered why some cab builders don't care for t-molding. I never put anyone down. For some ridiculous reason you're implying that I like to buy instead of build. You don't know me at all so save it. Nobody likes to see alternatives and new ideas more then myself. It just that something as simple as t-molding has been pretty much perfected. (again..just my opinion so don't get your panties all up in a bunch) If you have a better idea then using t-molding then by all means go with what you like. I happen to think T-molding looks best but that is my opinion and isn't written in stone. I never held a gun to someones head and insisted that they use t-molding. If I happen to think of or see something that would be superior then I would use it. Sorry but so far I can't think of any building material that looks better. If you can THEN USE IT ! (screaming drewkaree style) If anyone steered this post away from its original topic its you with your hot headed ranting and invalid accusations that have absolutely know credibility what-so-ever. Again..you don't even know me so save your long winded put downs for some message board other then this one. Someone needs to lock your "caps lock" key before you wear it out.

[MameMe]

Let's try to be nice.

For anyone that used a router to make a simple "edge" instead of t-molding, what size bit did you use?  I think someone mentioned 3/8"?

[rsoandrew]

Whenever I need a cheap tool for one job I go to Harbor Freight. They have a three slot cutters for 9.99

They're not the best tools but for one or two jobs, pretty good.

[rsoandrew]

I just noticed a thread on the right size for a slot cutter and it looks like the bits above are too big.

[patrickl]

Let's try to be nice.

For anyone that used a router to make a simple "edge" instead of t-molding, what size bit did you use?  I think someone mentioned 3/8"?

The bit size of course depends on the wood thickness and the effect you'r after. I suggested 3/8" since doing both sides of a 3/4" would need a 3/8"round over bit. You can also buy a 3/4" round edge bit (or bullnose bit) and do it in one go. The round edge bits are somewhat more expensive (at MLCS Woordworking it's $21 vs $15)

I'm not sure about practical problems though. You'd need to be pretty perfect in aligning the bit when you want to do it in one run. If you use a roundover bit I'm not sure how you can make sure the second run won't be bothered about the edge where the bearing runs being rounded already (i.e the bit might go to far into the wood as a result).

If you don't want an exact round edge, but more flattened out rounded edge (like in regular T-molding) you'll need another bit again (Finger Nail bit or a Furniture maker bit). Or if you want a rounded edge with a bit of flat edge in the middle you need a smaller round over bit ...  it just depends on what you want to do. You can find a huge number of bits on the MLCS Woodworking site

I seriously think that paint will chip off from the leading edge though. Has anyone tried this rounding on MDF and used the cab for a few months already?

[fredster]

The real purpose of t-molding is to keep the edges from chipping.  Almost all MDF furniture pieces have some kind of Tmolding.  Look at folding tables, etc.

Some people use strips of laminated vynil for it.  That works okay.  The tape idea is good too.  You can get that at lowes or home depot.

T-molding also gives you a decorator colors to enhance the look of the game cab.  I think it's the most durable material you can use.  The other stuff comes off over time if glue is the only thing holding it on.  T molding has the slot.

Anything will get beat up after a few moves.  Tmolding is just more durable.

[pathdoc2]

Here is an example of one of my older cabs without any t molding.

[patrickl]

You should try that cab with red t-molding  

[hyiu]

I'm also building my cab with rounded edges by router...

I'm using 1/4 in rounding bit.....

and I'm suing plywood... (so.. yes... it'll show layers...)
but I think its ok....

[coconut]

I found if your using plywood, before you paint, use wood-filler on the edge, and smooth it out.  Then when you paint your cab, it will be a very nice smooth edge, looks rounded like t-molding.  This could also be used on MBF to smooth out the edge before painting as well.

[MameMe]

Pathdoc..that looks pretty good.  Thanks man!

[MameMe]

If you don't want an exact round edge, but more flattened out rounded edge (like in regular T-molding) you'll need another bit again (Finger Nail bit or a Furniture maker bit). Or if you want a rounded edge with a bit of flat edge in the middle you need a smaller round over bit ...  it just depends on what you want to do. You can find a huge number of bits on the MLCS Woodworking site

My MDF is 3/4" wide and yes I want a little flat section in the middle between both rounded corners.  So what size bit would I need for that PatrickL?

[patrickl]

Depends on which part of the edge you want rounded. The bit size is simply the radius of the bit.

3/8" will round the hole edge. Anything less will leave a flat bit in between the rounded edges. For instance, if you use a 1/4" round over bit (as hyiu did) then you'll have 1/4" rounded, then 1/4" flat and finally again 1/4" rounded.

You better ask Pathdoc though, if you like the way his edge looks. I guess he used a much smaller bit.

[MameMe]

Yea looks like pathdoc may be using something smaller, maybe 1/8"?  Lets see what he says.

[pathdoc2]

I'll have to check and see but  I think its 1/4 inch but not set to the full depth.  Does that make sense?  I lower the bit just low enough to round the corners slightly.  I hope this helps.  Some of my machines are well over 2 years old now.  The machine in this pic has been moved twice and all of the corners/edges are intact.  Unfortunately this pic was take before I hand painted the sideart.