Building an Arcade Cabinet - Questions

[Shredder]

We've got plans.  It'll be based on a Konami Simpsons Cabinet, to replace my old/used Wizards of War hybrid.  There's going to be a few modifications, however, for easier board storage.

But, two questions...

What's the best wood choice to use for building it?  I' ve been told either MDF or Partical Board.

Also, what's the best way to actually assemble the thing?  Heavy Duty glue?  Super Sized nails?

Thanks...

[steve_pss]

MDF - stay away from particle board. Most of us, myself included use drywall screws.

[eldercaribou]

I got lucky and found 3/4" ash plywood at Home Depot for the same price as pine... it is nice to work with and the wood has a nice texture - I like wood vs. mdf, but that is a personal thing (ymmv)

For actual construction, I used the "screw & glue" approach for strength with 1 1/4" deck screws, and just screws for the panels I might want to remove someday... for the load bearing part of the monitor mounts, I added counter-sunk 1/4" carriage bolts as well, but I tend to over-engineer  

The nice thing about using deck screws with the wood is that they can be "pulled" into the wood slightly, effectively countersinking them without needing to buy a $15 countersink bit...

[Mr. Dude]

I used MDF on mine but you could also use plywood or another wood of choice... I do agree though DO NOT use particle board.  Also the screw and glue method is the way to go.  I used wood screws and lots of wood glue.

[Mugzilla]

I would sand the MDF where is is going to be glued to other pieces of MDF. This will remove the waxy surface, and make for a heck of a bond.

Just my $0.02

[steve_pss]

i've found plywood tends to shred, plus when slot cutting the middle laminate layer can tear.. pain to sand and seal.. i just dont like it. I use 3/4" CDX for the base and monitor shelf but the rest is built out of 3/4" and 1/2" MDF using drywall screws with the reversable countersink bit. wood fill the holes, sand, seal and and again and your ready to go. I use parts express vinyl for the CP and front pieces and paint the sides (tho laminate is nice as well).

[DougHillman]

This question gets asked all the time (I even asked it myself a little whie ago to get some input before I started my next project.)  You'll get answers stating that any of several different types of material is the best.

I've come to the conclusion that all of the major choices are viable and which you use really comes down to personal choice.  

Particle Board:  Inexpensive, medium weight.  Needs priming/filling & sanding if you're going to paint it.  Should have a 2x2 frame in the lower section to support the monitor and 1x1 real wood (1x2 or whatever) stringers for attaching pieces together.   Many original cabinets were made from Particle Board, so obviously it's a useable material.  Don't get it wet.

MDF:  inexpensive, HEAVY.  Paintable without much prep.  Messiest to work with.

Plywood:  Most expensive of the 3, lightest weight, overall the strongest.  A good birch or ash faced ply won't need much prep before painting.      


Personally, I'd put a 2x2 frame in the lower half regardless of what material I'm using.  Especially if you're using a big-ass monitor or TV.  

I'm using particle board for the two cabinets I'm currently building.  The best compromise between weight & cost.  I've seen plenty of 20 year old particle board cabinets that are still in fine shape (I own one, in fact), so I'm satisfied about its lasting power.

D  

[Lilwolf]

Each option has their strong point

MDF -
  pros -
    Cheap
    Easy to work with    
    No sanding
  cons -
    HEAVY
    LOTS of sawdust
    no water... even a little can cause problems.

Plywood -
  pros -
    very strong
    light
  cons -
    rough, expect hours of sanding or use lexan
    hard to screw into the end

btw... you should use 3/4 no matter for when you want to use T-Molding.  all other sized are specialized and more expensive.

Also... Even thought MDF isn't as strong as plywood.  3/4 MDF is very strong.


   
   

[Shredder]

Thanks for all the info guys..

If we ever get our F150 back to actually go out and buy the wood, since it probably wouldn't fit in the Explorer, I'll try and post some pictures as it's being built...

The Monitor I hope to be using is a regular 25" TV, so I'll need something stable and strong enough to hold the thing.  Don't want to hear a large CRASH one night as I'm sleeping .  We have a JROK Version 3 video converter hooked up to be Jamma connector for the TV..

[jimmyjet]

I have had great success using particle board.  I use lots of glue, screws, and wherever possible, dadoe on panel into another.  

Routing the tmolding slot is easy in particle board.

My biggest problems with the mdf are its screw holding ability and the dust (and I have an air cleaner and 1200 cfm dust collector in the shop).

That is just my opinion.
jimmyjet