need a good way make the back of my cab accessible (no hinges?)

[hulkster]

alright, heres my dilemma...i have my showcase cab for the most part assembled.  i want to have access to the back of the cp pedestal portion ( http://www.arcadecontrols.com/files/Uploads/DSC00263.JPG ) so if the coin door messes up or something goes out, i can take off the back panel to fix it.  also i want to be able to access the back of the monitor pedestal (what it sits on) so i can be able to access the pc that will be sitting in the bottom of it ( http://www.arcadecontrols.com/files/Uploads/DSC00259.JPG ) .  i dont want to install piano hinges because to me, those stick out like a sore thumb, unless you route out a slot, and all that crap.  so my next thought was to use velcro which would work fine, but i need a way to be able to pull off the panel.  the velcro sticks real well as most of you know, and most of the time its under a cp, and you can just lift the cp up, no problem.  well this time, everything will be flush against the panel that the velcro is on and there will be no way of pulling it off without have like a handle installed or something.  my question, what is the best option here?  i dont want a big ol brass handle on there....that just looks dumb.  i was thinking about just drilling a hole so that i could use my finger  (heh) but that might be a little ugly as well.  is there anything i could use to make this look as good as possible?

[Tilzs]

Try useing those Cabinet Door magnents. You know the ones where you push in and it opens up. Then if you don't want hinges showing, you can use  European hinges

[hulkster]

well ive never heard of european hinges....explain?

[Tilzs]

Read up on this page

http://www.rhcdoors.com/european-hinges.htm

You see them a lot of the time on kitchen cabinents when you have a big door and/or don't want to see the hardware.

[Minwah]

Read up on this page

http://www.rhcdoors.com/european-hinges.htm

You see them a lot of the time on kitchen cabinents when you have a big door and/or don't want to see the hardware.

They are good (I have them on my wardrobe!) but I have heard it can be tricky to get the holes in the right place, if you haven't done it before...

[PedroSilva]

Read up on this page

http://www.rhcdoors.com/european-hinges.htm

You see them a lot of the time on kitchen cabinents when you have a big door and/or don't want to see the hardware.

They are good (I have them on my wardrobe!) but I have heard it can be tricky to get the holes in the right place, if you haven't done it before...

Well .. I don't know how they are sold there, but here (read Europe) they normally have a mask (paper) that you can use for making all the holes. It's really no big deal if you use that mask.

[FractalWalk]

I installed Euro hinges on mine without a template and it was easy. Once installed you can adjust them about 1/8" in on any axis (i.e. in/out up/down left/right).

Depending on how your door mounts, you may need them to be flush. WHen the door shuts, does it cover the side panel (i.e. cabinte style) or does the door shut inside the side panels like a standard door in a doorjamb?

[FractalWalk]

For some reason, I can't post a pic so here's a link to the hinges that I used (flush mount).

http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=67156-214-P5115-14

[JustMichael]

What about using a couple backdoor locks (one on each side)?

[hyiu]

for those european hinge...

there are a couple of types that you DON'T need to route a hole !!!!

but its a little more expensive...

but lowes, HD and rockler have it...

use those hinge on 1 side and a couple of strong magnet catch and you're all set....
(ps:  I routed a push button hole as the pull....) but I guess if you use those cabinet catch where you can push and it'll bounce out... you shouldn't need any catches at all...

I'll try to post some pics in a few days if you want....
(a contractor is currently fixing my basement floor... very BIG mess right now....)

[hulkster]

for those european hinge...

there are a couple of types that you DON'T need to route a hole !!!!

but its a little more expensive...

but lowes, HD and rockler have it...

use those hinge on 1 side and a couple of strong magnet catch and you're all set....
(ps:  I routed a push button hole as the pull....) but I guess if you use those cabinet catch where you can push and it'll bounce out... you shouldn't need any catches at all...

I'll try to post some pics in a few days if you want....
(a contractor is currently fixing my basement floor... very BIG mess right now....)

yeah if you dont mind, take some pics.  anything will help!

[hyiu]

well... pics need to wait a few days....  
(as said before, my basement is in construction right now... estimated date of finishes... 4/10/04 Sat...)

but here is a few links that will help in the meantime..

these 3 seems to be hinges that you don't need to route a hole for the hinge... it just screws on... and that's it...
I'm using one that can only open 90 degree... (cos I didn't find any other at the time in HD....)

take a closer look or possibly send an email to rockler and ask about them before buying.... (if they need to route a hole first...) but I think you'll get the idea....

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=5218

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=5270

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=10765

and this is the catch they're talking about....

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=135

hope this helps in the meantime...
 

[pmc]

for those european hinge...

there are a couple of types that you DON'T need to route a hole !!!!

but its a little more expensive...

Watch out with those flush-mount types and make sure they will work for you. I installed those things for a front door on my cabinet (the base opens out to provide full access to the PC inside). The door binds at about 45-degrees because the hinges are made for doors that flush mount and are not inset. I ended up living it but plan to fix it some day when I fine tune all the other little problems I created for myself.

My door looks like Hulksters'. Both sides are inset. You'll need a hinge that swings the door out so that it will clear the sides of the cabinet when opening.

I have considered turning the door into a "hatch" held on with magnets. Just pull and the whole hatch pops off. Or consider using turn-buckles on the outside to hold the panel in place or remove it as necessary.

[SirPoonga]

make it like the back of an upright cabinet.  Just a door and a lock.

[hyiu]

inset... what exactly does it mean ??

and it fits almost perfectly.... opened or closed...
(but I'll have to take it off later and drill a speaker hole...)

[hulkster]

lock it on to what though?  ive seen the various locks that are used on the back of upright cabs, and im wondering what the "latch" (underside of the lock...opposite key hole) hooks on to to keep it closed.  and also, if i have one lock installed at say, the top of the door, what about the bottom?  put another lock on it?

[hyiu]

assuming you have a lock on the top....

you can always use 2 of those magnetic catch to hold the bottom... get the heavy duty ones... they're strong...

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=141

on a cab that I build... I drilled a button hole to put my finger in to pull out the back board... and the board just uses 4 magnetic catch to hold it in place.... (well... yes, still have a hole... not perfect....) so... depends on what you want....  

[hulkster]

hmmm, i was thinking of just using the magnetic thingys, but wasnt sure how well that held.  that would be a great way to do it.  im assuming you can get those at any hardware store....or even walmart for that matter?

[hyiu]

if you get the heavy duty ones, and install it correctly so that the metal piece actually "cling" to the magnet... it will be held well.... (during normal 2 player MAJOR playing.. it will NOT fell off....

but usually... places will sell a few types... (being 1 of them is heavy duty...) just make sure you get the heavy duty one.... (and not the cheapy one....)

I have 4 of them (near the 4 corners...) and it holds well...
I have tried to shake the cab, and I can not shake it loose... (of course... with the monitor and stuffs in there...
I did rock it so that it shakes.... within normal means... but I'm not trying to tipp over the thing... heeee heee....