Router Questions

[shawnzilla]

Hi All,

I'm trying to decide on a router, but not really sure what the difference between some of the features is.

1) What's the difference between a plunge and fixed based router? Is one more advantageous than the other for t-molding and joystick routing?

2) Is a router table important? There is a Ryobi fix-based router & router table combo at Home Depot for $99. Should I look into buying it?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

[Santoro]

I can't respond to 1), but a router table is not required or work on Cabs.  IMHO a router table is mostly for working on small pieces.

I am not a professional woodworker, this has just been my experience.

[wj2k3]

The plunge version is better if you plan on routing out areas for joysticks, though you can use the fixed base if that is what you have.  If all you were doing was t-molding, then a fixed base is more than adequate.  If price is not an issue, I would go with the plunge version as it can function both ways.

A router table would have limited use for building a cabinet.   You might be able to use a table router for the t-molding on a control panel but cabinet sides would be just to large to do properly.  

my 0.02
-wj2k3

[Ghoward]

Hi All,

I'm trying to decide on a router, but not really sure what the difference between some of the features is.

1) What's the difference between a plunge and fixed based router? Is one more advantageous than the other for t-molding and joystick routing?

2) Is a router table important? There is a Ryobi fix-based router & router table combo at Home Depot for $99. Should I look into buying it?

1) Plunge router  as the name suggests used to make plunged cuts

[krick]

You might want to check out this thread.  There's a bit of router talk...

http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=17110


 

[hyiu]

let me see if I can confuse you more...    

the main difference between a normal router and a plunge router is that the plunge router, that (whole motor and router bit part) can move up and down... (or plunge down...)

basically.... a plunge router (if you do not use that plunge functionality...) becomes a normal router.....

now... is that necessary to you ??....
I donno... if you're ONLY looking to build a cab....
maybe not....

this link from lowes.com describe some basics about routers... should be helpful... other sites might also have similar faqs.....

http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=howTo&p=BuyGuide/ChosRtr&topic=howToLibrary

and for routing table.... again... for just building a cab...
I don't find it really useful....

but for general woodworking... I find it very useful....

[steve_pss]

If you hit the Home Despot that have a Ryobi plunge router for about 100 bucks that is more than enough for general cab building. I have it myself. If you have a crappy table saw like me it's really useful for ripping down large pieces (and keeping them square), routing out 3/4 to mount joysticls and slot cutting. Like any Ryobi tool it's frustratingly cheap but with patience it gets the job done..

Now if only I had the foresite to by a decent table saw..

[rdagger]

You can make some plunge cuts with a fixed based router, but it is more difficult.   One advantage of the fixed based router is it lighter and smaller, which make it easier to use.  This would be an advantage for laminate and T-Molding.  The plunge router makes it much easier to set the depth.  You usually can not route very deep into wood in one pass.  You need to make several passes, each time lowering the router until you get to the desired depth.  Most plunge routers have a depth rod that lets you dial in the depth and then there is a stop turret that allows you to gradually lower the tool into the wood with each pass. I used a plunge router for the following cab construction tasks:
1.  Cutting perfect joystick and button holes in Lexan using a flush trim bit.  The bit is also used to trim laminate.
2.  Routing out the bottom of the CP to flush mount a trackball using a straight bit.
3.  Expanding the bottom of a square CP opening to better fit a yoke using a chamfer bit.
4.  Smoothing sharp corners that were digging into wires using a round over bit.
5.  Cutting the T-Molding grooves using a slot cutter bit.

If you have to choose plunge or fixed, I'd go with a variable speed plunge, because of the versatility.  If you are cutting a lot of MDF you might want to get a vacuum attachment, because routers can get very messy.

[pmc]

Fixed base router can not do plunged cuts however for arcade cabs is perfect for t-molding and would work fine for joystick routing.

I do plunge cuts with a fixed router. If you have a bit with a cutting edge on the bottom, you just start at and angle and then level the router as the bit plunges into the surface. If you have a bit with blades on the sides but not on the bottom, drill a starter hole at the correct depth. Insert the bit into the starter hole and then start routing.

I've never fully understood the purpose of the plunge capability although rdagger's description makes it sound like it's more convenient. The staff at Woodworker's warehouse indicated to me that a plunge-base is an unecessary item which I thought was a strange comment given how much this group seems to support plunge variants.

Anyway, I don't think you'll be unhappy with either, but I wouldn't drive yourself too crazy worrying about to-plunge or not-to-plunge. Alternately, consider a model that has an optional plunge-base and acquire it as needed.

FYI, I bought a Bosch that's comparable to the "industry standard" Porter Cable 690. I found bits at a flea market at $5 each. Good bits are really expensive.

- pmc

[DrewKaree]

If you have are going to Home Depot or Lowes, head over to their rental department (dunno if Lowes has one, haven't been near a Lowes for about 2 years now).  See if they have routers to rent.  Go that route if they have Porter Cable, DeWalt, or Milwaukee routers.  This will allow you to test them (or do your cab) before you lay down cash for them.  That'll also give you a feel for what SUCKS about a machine.  If it sucks for that little bit of time, eventually you'll want to sell it.

In daily use, I've found the pistol-grip (d-handle?)type handle router easiest to handle.  

Plunge routers, for cab building purposes, are ABSOLUTELY not necessary.  As has been posted here, a fixed base slowly lowered to the workpiece will be adequate.  The plunge router would be required to make clean holes (such as a drill) and as such, are simply not a requirement for our application.  

If you can afford a kit with two (or more) handles, buy THAT ONE.  You'll appreciate the different bases in the long run.  They each have their use.  The d-handle I use is great if you're freehanding around a piece.  The short knob-type handles are hard to manage with only one hand.

As for router tables, for the size of pieces you'll probably have, most router tables are just not large enough to support 'em.  You'll probably end up having to re-rout some edges cuz they didn't shape right, or worse yet, with a slot-cutting bit, you'll screw up a whole side.  

I recommend Porter Cable, DeWalt, and Milwaukee.  In that EXACT order.  I know they're expensive.  You WILL get what you pay for.  Nicer adjusters, more accurate adjustments, easier bit changing, better dust removal, et al.  

A word of warning.  It sounds as if you've never used a router before.  YOU should NEVER EVER use less than two hands until you've built up enough time that you feel comfortable and have the proper handle to go to one-handed operation.  Even THEN, don't attempt any long (over 2') one-handed cuts until you've built up MORE time that you feel comfortable.  

Lastly, don't EVER turn your machine on until you are POSITIVE you have tightened the bit-fastening mechanism.  Nothing like having a bit spin around the room at a million rpm's after you THOUGHT you had it locked down!

[JustMichael]

And don't forget to wear safety glasses...  

[DougHillman]

And don't forget to wear safety glasses...  

As a DJ, dancer (around loud music alot), and someone who's spent alot of his life around loud cars, motorcycles and power tools I'll add in that wearing ear plugs is a pretty good idea as well.

D

[rdagger]

Routers kick up  a substantial amount of saw dust.  MDF dust may cause sino-nasal cancer and the formaldehyde released when you cut MDF can cause irritation of the eyes, nose and throat.  When I route MDF, I use goggles, a mask and tissue in my ears.

Maybe this old news, but I was disappointed to discover last week that my local Home Depot will no longer cut MDF, because of the health liability.