Original Midway Pacman Coin Mech

[Bitnerd]

Hey Y'all,

I am currently restoring an old pacman upright and I need to figure out how to trouble shoot the coin mech.  I am not asking for anyone to solve my problems for me but could someone point me in the right direction of some reading material that will help me?

Thanx,


Bitnerd

[abrannan]

What's the problem you're having?  That might help me point you in a direction.  Coins sticking?  Coins that should be rejected being accepted/vice versa?  Switch not triggering?  

[Bitnerd]

Hey Bro,

Thanx for your reply.  i will have to say all of the above at this point. I noticed some wires sticking out that don't seem to be connected to anythying and I am wondering where I can learn how to wire it properly.  Tell you what I will get the thing out tonight and look a little harder if to see if I can't be a little more descriptive.  Again, thanx for your reply.

Bitnerd

[Stingray]

I've got a Midway coin door. On mine the wires go to the two switches under the coin mechs, and the lights behind the 25 cents signs. There was also a coin meter, but I removed that as I saw no need for it nor any way to make it work with my setup anyway.

Since you mention wires I'm assuming that problem is with the switches and not the mechs. What exactly happens when you insert a coin? Does it get rejected or does in drop into the bucket without registering a credit?

-S

[Bitnerd]

Hey stingray,

Here is the skinny on the door.  Originally I bought an old gutted out ms pacman to redo the cabinet and restore.  That is the cab that has the original midway coin door on it.  Recently, a fellow near me was selling a pacman that was in pretty descent condition for $600.00.  Well, i couldn't pass that up so I bought it.  It has a third party coin door on it with mechs in it.  What I want to do is take the original door off the ms pacman and put it on the pacman then put the mechs from the third party door in it.  I am just not sure how to wire it is all.  Like I said above, I am going to look closer tonight to be able to give you guys a better description.  Thanx again bro.


bitnerd.

[Stingray]

As far as I know Mechs are universal so they should transfer from the 3rd party door without issue. As far as the wiring goes, the switches are no different than wireing any other kind of switch. Ditto with the lightbulbs. Can't help you if you want to wire up a coin meter though.

-S

[Bitnerd]

Thanx bro....I will check it tonight and let ya know what I find.


Bitnerd

[Ken Layton]

Pacman and Ms. Pacman originally shipped from the factory with COIN MECH brand coin chutes (www.coinmech.com). Bob Roberts has coin chute guide at www.dameon.net/BBBB/cm.html

The manufacturer of the flat style coin door (a.k.a. "Ms. Pacman door") changed over the years. The last company to manufacture that coin door was Happ Controls. Be aware that not all coin chutes will mechanically fit that door. That's because there's an "anti-penny" flipping flipper that needs to protrude thru a certain hole in the back of the coin chute that some makes/models don't have. Sometimes the coin return mechanical linkage won't allow some makes of coin chutes to fully snap into the holder and will bind/jam. The only chutes that fit 100% for sure in this door are COIN MECH brand. Most Coin Acceptors (a.k.a. "Coinco") chutes will work, but Coin Controls will NOT.

Pacman cabinets did not have lights on the coin door and did not have the wiring for any door lights. Ms. Pacman did have coin door lights and are 12 volt wedge base #194 or 161 lamps (available at auto parts stores).

What is common to both doors on Pac and Ms. Pac are 2 coin switches, a tilt/slap/slam switch (the lock holds the bracket), and a coin meter. Ms. Pac has two lmp sockets and a "test & service credits" switch panel mounted on the door near the hinge. Pacman had the test/service switch panel mounted inside the cabinet near the right side of the door.

[paigeoliver]

Also, that specific door goes WAY BACK. I have one made in 1976, and I have seen them on 60s era EM equipment.

[Ken Layton]

The original Midway coin door dates to the mid 1960's and manufactured up to 1994.

[Stingray]

, a tilt/slap/slam switch (the lock holds the bracket),

Oh yeah, I forgot about that. Obviously I removed that as well.

I meant to ask yesterday, are you restoring a Pac or are you doing a MAME conversion?

-S

[Bitnerd]

, a tilt/slap/slam switch (the lock holds the bracket),

Oh yeah, I forgot about that. Obviously I removed that as well.

I meant to ask yesterday, are you restoring a Pac or are you doing a MAME conversion?

-S

Hey Stingray,

I am doing a complete restore.  No mame on this one.  Now I am thinking about mame'ing a ms pacman cabinet that I have.



bitnerd

[Bitnerd]

Wow!!! What great information.  Thank you all so much.  Here is the story thus far.  Last night, I took the original midway coin door off the ms pacman, then I took the third party door off the pacman.  I took the mechs out of the third party door and put them in the ms pacman door.  They work great.    I wired every thing up and turned the unit on.  I dropped a quarter through and it gave me a credit.  Tried both mechs and they work fine.  here is where it gets hairy.  I go to start a game, and it goes into diag mode.  It must be the credit button and diag switch on the ms pacman door conflicting with the same buttons on the pacman.  Not sure how I am going to rewire for that one.  Any suggestions at this point are welcome.  I have attached a jpg of the coin door if anyone is interested.  I think it looks great.  Oh BTW, someone mentioned Bob Roberts.  That guy lives right down the street from where I work.  Have gone to him twice now for parts.  He is a good dude.


bitnerd.

[Stingray]

That's exactly the same coin door that I have. If you want/ need the tilt switch or the coin meter for that door you can have mine for shipping. I have no need for those items.

-S

[Ken Layton]

Spray some contact cleaner into the test slide switch. These switches get dirty internally alot. I bet you have the test switch slid into the test mode instead of normal game play mode.

[Bitnerd]

This is a pic of the Lite Button kit that I got from Bob Roberts that I installed.  Doesn't really have anything to do with the thread.  Just wanted to show it off.

[Bitnerd]

Spray some contact cleaner into the test slide switch. These switches get dirty internally alot. I bet you have the test switch slid into the test mode instead of normal game play mode.

Thanx Ken, I will try it.

[Bitnerd]

That's exactly the same coin door that I have. If you want/ need the tilt switch or the coin meter for that door you can have mine for shipping. I have no need for those items.

-S

That would be great Stingray, let me know how much you think it will be to ship and I will snail mail a money order off to you.  Thanx again.

[Stingray]

Check your PM

-S

That's exactly the same coin door that I have. If you want/ need the tilt switch or the coin meter for that door you can have mine for shipping. I have no need for those items.

-S

That would be great Stingray, let me know how much you think it will be to ship and I will snail mail a money order off to you.  Thanx again.

[slicer_d]

This doesnt directally relate to the original post but I have the same coin door and the coin reject buttons are all rusty not quite as bad as bitnerds but bad enough for me to want them to look better.  Does anybody know a way to clean them and keep them from getting rusty again or at least to help prevent it.

[Stingray]

I cleaned mine up with some automotive buffing compound.

-S

[Bitnerd]

Good news........got it working!!!!  First off, I want to thank everyone so much for their help and insight.  Y'all have been a great source of information.  Yesterday, i decided that I would get the lamps working first, even if I couldn't get the game to work with the coin door molex connected.  I stopped by radio shack and picked up a 2 prong male/female molex connector.  I figure I would take the lamp wires off the main harness and put them on the button light kit that I had installed.  I tested the lamps first.  Put power to both of them.  Kewl, they lit.  I traced the lamp wires back to the main door molex and pulled them off and connected them to the two pronger.  Flipped the power back on to make sure all lit.  Everything looked great.  Now here is where I got a nice suprise.  I hook the door wiring back up to the harness and start a game just to see if it was still acting up.  Low and behold, the games starts.  I check the coin mechs by dropping quarters in.  Dayum, they work too.  I don't know what happened by taking the lamp wires off, but it is all working now.


P.S.  Gonna stop by Bob Roberts tonight on my way home to pick up a lock and key set for the door and some new lamps.  Also going to put in a new switching power supply.  The one in there now is a little old and I measured the voltage on it.  Was a little low.  The 12V is measuring 10V.

[Bitnerd]

This doesnt directally relate to the original post but I have the same coin door and the coin reject buttons are all rusty not quite as bad as bitnerds but bad enough for me to want them to look better.  Does anybody know a way to clean them and keep them from getting rusty again or at least to help prevent it.

Hey slicer,

That was going to be my next question because you are right, the chrome on my door looks like hell.  Do you think we should start another thread for this one or just let it ride?  I would actually like to find new replacement parts if I can.

Bitnerd

[Stingray]

That was going to be my next question because you are right, the chrome on my door looks like hell.  Do you think we should start another thread for this one or just let it ride?  I would actually like to find new replacement parts if I can.

Before you replace them you really should try cleaning them with some buffing compund as I suggested above. You'd be amazed at how well this stuff will polish off rust & crud. The reject buttons are easy to remove from the door so you can get some good elbow grease on them!  

You also might try some kind of metal polish like Brasso.

-S

[Bitnerd]

I cleaned mine up with some automotive buffing compound.

-S

Sting,

What do you use to buff it?  Just regular rag?

Bitnerd

[mp2526]

Fine steel wool works fairly well also.  To keep them from rusting again, you might try spraying a light coat of WD40 or maybe some car wax.

[Stingray]

I cleaned mine up with some automotive buffing compound.

-S

Sting,

What do you use to buff it?  Just regular rag?

Bitnerd

Yep

-S

[Bitnerd]

I cleaned mine up with some automotive buffing compound.

-S

Sting,

What do you use to buff it?  Just regular rag?

Bitnerd

Yep

-S

kk bro, I will give this a shot before I buy NOS.

[Bitnerd]

Fine steel wool works fairly well also.  To keep them from rusting again, you might try spraying a light coat of WD40 or maybe some car wax.

Good advice MP.  Do you ever really get that original chrome shine back though?  I am not sure anything can do that.  I might be wrong though.