Author Topic: Neat tool i found to help drill holes in CP's (Read 3550 times)

CitznFish · « **on:** March 18, 2004, 01:43:41 am »

http://www.rockler.com/findit.cfm?gcid=C11135x003&page=2406

haven't seen this posted before. Hopefully this isn't the 10th time someone brought this up.

mr.Curmudgeon · « **Reply #1 on:** March 18, 2004, 02:14:05 am »

I hadn't seen it before...that's AWESOME. Thanks.

hyiu · « **Reply #2 on:** March 18, 2004, 10:30:27 am »

hmmm.... too bad... I don't think it'll work with a spade bit...
or else I think I'll get it...
$:-\$

bigmoe · « **Reply #3 on:** March 18, 2004, 02:28:16 pm »

Is that catalog model running that drill with his hands next to the bit and without so much as a clamp on the piece he's drilling?

Yikes!

He should at least be using a driill with a side handle or something!

froggerman · « **Reply #4 on:** March 18, 2004, 02:53:40 pm »

hmmm.... too bad... I don't think it'll work with a spade bit...
or else I think I'll get it...

Do you not like Forstner bits or do you already have the spade bits? I think that the guide will only fit these specific bits.

Hmmm...it seems that I don't know how to do a quote. How is that done?

hyiu · « **Reply #5 on:** March 18, 2004, 03:31:32 pm »

$:-\$

yeah... I already got a spade bit....

SirPeale · « **Reply #6 on:** March 18, 2004, 03:40:46 pm »

Quote from: froggerman on March 18, 2004, 02:53:40 pm

Hmmm...it seems that I don't know how to do a quote. How is that done?

You hit the 'reply with quote' button. Anything in the quote tag gets quoted, anything outside of that is yours.

hyiu · « **Reply #7 on:** March 18, 2004, 03:55:06 pm »

so... anyone knows a cheapy method that I can use that will have a similar result (straight downward drill....) and is good with a spade bit ??

froggerman · « **Reply #8 on:** March 18, 2004, 04:15:52 pm »

Quote from: Peale on March 18, 2004, 03:40:46 pm

Quote from: froggerman on March 18, 2004, 02:53:40 pm
Hmmm...it seems that I don't know how to do a quote. How is that done?

You hit the 'reply with quote' button. Anything in the quote tag gets quoted, anything outside of that is yours.

How simple. I was always clicking on the reply button at the bottom of the screen. I didn't even see the 'reply with quote'. $:-\$

Thanks for the pointer.

Xiaou2 · « **Reply #9 on:** March 18, 2004, 07:04:40 pm »

the best thing i found for a regular hand drill is a drill guide.
they usually cost about 30$. works great with spade bits - or anything else for that matter.

Rawker · « **Reply #10 on:** March 19, 2004, 12:15:03 am »

novelty items, next image posted will be a drill with a leveling bubble on it.

seriously though how hard is it to drill straight? if you have trouble then clamp the piece on it's side so you can work in a more natural position.

Jakobud · « **Reply #11 on:** March 19, 2004, 02:02:19 am »

You know, drilling holes for buttons, joysticks isn't this hard guys. Just hold the drill straight and push down... Most drills nowadays even have bubble levels on the top for you to keep an eye on.

ErikRuud · « **Reply #12 on:** March 19, 2004, 08:53:27 am »

Drilling straight is not hard at all and with buttons and joystick holes the holes do not need to be exactly perpendicular. If you are a few degress off, it won't be noticable once the buttons are installed.

Santoro · « **Reply #13 on:** March 19, 2004, 08:58:30 am »

Quote from: ErikRuud on March 19, 2004, 08:53:27 am

Drilling straight is not hard at all and with buttons and joystick holes the holes do not need to be exactly perpendicular. If you are a few degress off, it won't be noticable once the buttons are installed.

I would qualify this a bit. IMHO there is room for error, but not a lot. My experience has been that if the holes are not perpendicular, when you tighten up the nuts in the buttons, the plastic is squeezed out of shape and the buttons stick. This happened to me on a prototype CP that I drilled by hand. It looked perpendicular but wasn't. See the "Buttons Sticking..." thread for related info.

$0.02
Dave

ErikRuud · « **Reply #14 on:** March 19, 2004, 09:25:34 am »

I did say a "few degrees".

More than a few degress and yes, you will probably distort the button sleeve.

Khenemet Heru · « **Reply #15 on:** March 19, 2004, 09:29:00 am »

Quote from: Rawker on March 19, 2004, 12:15:03 am

novelty items, next image posted will be a drill with a leveling bubble on it.

actually my craftsman drill has 2 leveling bubbles built into the housing... funny that...

hyiu · « **Reply #16 on:** March 19, 2004, 10:14:30 am »

actually... the button holes are not bad at all...

but sometimes.... the 4 screw holes for the joystick is a little off... and that has less margin for errors...

ErikRuud · « **Reply #17 on:** March 19, 2004, 10:38:26 am »

Yes, the joystick screw holes need to be spaed properly. I use the joystick as a template when drilling those holes.

CitznFish · « **Reply #18 on:** March 19, 2004, 01:05:44 pm »

Quote from: Rawker on March 19, 2004, 12:15:03 am

novelty items, next image posted will be a drill with a leveling bubble on it.

seriously though how hard is it to drill straight? if you have trouble then clamp the piece on it's side so you can work in a more natural position.

No one stated it was hard, or difficult. It's not hard to wash a car either, but people take them to a car wash because it's easier.

Edit by SirPoonga: Stopping this from continuing.

mvaughn · « **Reply #19 on:** March 19, 2004, 03:21:12 pm »

for the price of a fancy drill with a leveling bubble you could get a hobby sized drill press.

If you want to be uber cool... you can build yourself a CNC router and then crank out the CP's by the dozens.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2032

Grasshopper · « **Reply #20 on:** March 19, 2004, 04:10:56 pm »

Quote from: Jakobud on March 19, 2004, 02:02:19 am

You know, drilling holes for buttons, joysticks isn't this hard guys.

Maybe so. But you can guarantee that it will the 20th hole that you screw up.....

Xiaou2 · « **Reply #21 on:** March 19, 2004, 06:42:59 pm »

drilling most holes isnt too tough - but you cant use a spade bit in a hand drill without a good possibility of injury. they are made to be used with drill presses or simular.

also... the stand device has locking angles and a depth stopper. these work nice for special holes - that arnt so easy to do without the stand.

why use a spade bit? they are faster and easier to cut holes. they are fairly cheap (yet very durrable)... and you can get a whole set for the cost of just a couple of hole saws. (im not counting those all-in-one hole saws because they stink. they break easily, holes arnt perfect..ect)

fostner bits are the bomb of course... but very expensive unless you find a good deal on them.

DrewKaree · « **Reply #22 on:** March 19, 2004, 06:51:19 pm »

Quote

uber-craftsmen like yourself can probably drill these with a corkscrew and some beeswax, right?

THAT'S gotta be the funniest thing I've read in a while! BTW, why would you use beeswax? n00b!

Tiger-Heli · « **Reply #23 on:** March 20, 2004, 09:25:00 am »

Quote from: drewkaree on March 19, 2004, 06:51:19 pm

Quote
uber-craftsmen like yourself can probably drill these with a corkscrew and some beeswax, right?

THAT'S gotta be the funniest thing I've read in a while! BTW, why would you use beeswax? n00b!

Makes the corkscrew slide in easier . . .

1UP · « **Reply #24 on:** March 21, 2004, 06:28:48 am »

Uhm...is it just me, or does that home CNC have a Dremel on it? Wow, you really CAN do anything with those suckers!

CitznFish · « **Reply #25 on:** March 22, 2004, 01:16:28 pm »

Quote from: mvaughn on March 19, 2004, 03:21:12 pm

for the price of a fancy drill with a leveling bubble you could get a hobby sized drill press.

If you want to be uber cool... you can build yourself a CNC router and then crank out the CP's by the dozens.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2032

That is sweet! It's amazing what people can build in their garages these days.

Blakey · « **Reply #26 on:** March 22, 2004, 07:10:06 pm »

Of course if you're building metal control panels then you should just use chassis punches.

Basic ones can get up to 16 gauge (1.291 mm), heavier duty ones up to 10 gauge or so.

No mucking about with holesaws, just drill a pilot hole, grab a spanner and you have a nice clean 1 1/8" hole.

Stingray · « **Reply #27 on:** March 23, 2004, 04:25:51 pm »

Those hole punches are great. I really need to get one.

-S

SirPoonga · « **Reply #28 on:** March 24, 2004, 01:49:33 pm »

Rawker, please respect other people.

Lilwolf · « **Reply #29 on:** March 24, 2004, 03:49:55 pm »

btw... couldn't you get a drill press to do it?

But after starting to ask the question... I've never seen one that will press below its own base...

Can you do it?


Main	Restorations	Software	Audio/Jukebox/MP3	Everything Else	Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements	Monitor/Video	GroovyMAME	Merit/JVL Touchscreen	Meet Up	Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing	Woodworking	Software Support Forums	Consoles	Project Arcade	Reviews
Automated Projects	Artwork	Frontend Support Forums	Pinball	Forum Discussion	Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board	controls.dat	Linux	Miscellaneous Arcade	Wiki Discussion	Old Archives
Lightguns	Arcade1Up	Try the site in https mode		Site News


Unread posts \| New Replies \| Recent posts \| Rules \| Chatroom \| Wiki \| File Repository \| RSS \| Submit news