My Results from long ago

[jjhlk]

I don't think I said anything in the past, so I might as well now before I forget. My profile seems to agree.

In the summer I bought HAPP controls and an IPAC and build my controls. I'll point out the problems I had to potentially help people.

It was a simple box, with two joysticks, 1 button on either side for coins, start buttons at the top, and 7 buttons per player in the SF/Neo design.

Problem 1: Screws for holding the joystick. I couldn't find any that were the right length for the width. So I ended up getting really long ones. I had to cut them with a saw (the sort where you pull down the handle for a quick cut -- I forget the names of tools). Turns out that's dangerous and in the end I needed to clean the ends of the screws because the cut wasn't good.

Problem 2: Bandsaw for cutting the wood. Bad idea! I'm not normally very bad with the bandsaw; I used them a lot in the past. However, this one had a fairly thick blade that pulled to the right! My cuts were horrible because it slowly pulled to the right (well, twisted actually) then quickly back to the left. I ended up sanding the boards flat but my measurements were all off then. I still put it together and it was a mess, but lots of fun still. I would use a table saw in the future.

Problem 3: Nails for holding the boards together. Not a good idea. Obviously. But it turns out it's equally difficult to drill holes for screws in the ends of long boards. There weren't many breaks. I did use some screws but because my measurements were off, the boards came together wrong.

Problem 4: The IPAC. It's excellent, however, how the hell do you attach it to the wood! I probably should have looked up stuff online, but I used some small pieces of wood and delicately fixed it to the underside of the top. The other problem with it was the 1/4 inch wood at the back; I had to cut squares in the back and it's difficult to plug in the cables. Now I have PS2 extension cords in the back which work nicely.

Problem 5: I used biggish screws with rounded heads - almost the same for the joysticks iirc (but sharp at the end) - at the top four corners. In the future, predrill to sink them down into the wood if possible. They bother my hand when I rest it on the wood and I put tape on which helps.

Problem 6: The size and tilt. It's hard to tell if the tilt is really bothersome, but I think it would have been a bit nicer with some tilt. The size is a bit bad because it's so high when I sit it in front of the monitor. Need to sit on your legs to get some height, and raise the monitor a bit on a box.

Problem 7: The surface. The wood isn't actually bad, but in the future I'll use plexi or laminate to cover up screws if I can, plus maybe get a touch of custom art on the edges.

Problem 8: The bottom. It just isn't very easy to put a bottom on (that is not difficult to take off). I left it off in the end, but I did make one out of

Problem 9: The holes. I bought a drill bit for proper holes. But, it was hard to drill the inside holes with the kind of drill I had. I practiced a lot beforehand though and it came out fine.

It might be nice to let the top hang over the front a little too.

The good: it's still really fun to play on! I played lots of those adventure platform games (Golden Axe) with my brother. The top-view airplane games are great and really challenging. There were a couple really old games I like, eg excitebike, track and field, and joust (may have used non-mame emulators for some of those). Fighting games like Street Fighter Alpha 3 are fun, but difficult: I think I got five computer players in at best. Bomberman and bubble bobble are great with other people. Crazy climber is really hard, but I'd like to try it again in the future. I like the metal slug games too- very fun with my brother. I think that's all; those were my favorites.

I left the controller at home to go to college (thought I didn't need the disctraction). This summer I'll build another, buy a nice one (building is fun and interesting once, but I don't have the tools where I live and playing was much more fun.. maybe I'll try to buy a cab though- shipping will be murder), or just get my old back because I don't think my brother uses it much anymore.

The whole experience has left me with this: Arcade games are better than computer games! Well, it's not necessarily a good comparison, but I like beating my own score or being actually challenged for once, versus the fps, fts, and rpg genres which just take a while to beat (boo). I also like the notion of playing a game like metroid prime again and again and again to get the quickest time. I don't think I'll buy computer games any longer or upgrade my system (however, it could use some stability and better parts.. maybe something quiet).

If anyone doesn't mind giving solutions to those problems, I'd like to hear them. In the future I'll have to look into them myself otherwise, via the faq and sites.

[patrickl]

Problem 3: Nails for holding the boards together. Not a good idea. Obviously. But it turns out it's equally difficult to drill holes for screws in the ends of long boards. There weren't many breaks. I did use some screws but because my measurements were off, the boards came together wrong.

I used dowels. Worked pretty well for me.

Problem 4: The IPAC. It's excellent, however, how the hell do you attach it to the wood! I probably should have looked up stuff online, but I used some small pieces of wood and delicately fixed it to the underside of the top. The other problem with it was the 1/4 inch wood at the back; I had to cut squares in the back and it's difficult to plug in the cables. Now I have PS2 extension cords in the back which work nicely.

Attach it by using PCB Mounting Feet?

[NoOne=NBA=]

Problem 1: Screws for holding the joystick.

I used #10 x 3/4" wood screws to hold mine on from the bottom, and it worked great.

Problem 2: Bandsaw for cutting the wood.

Bandsaws are good for scroll cuts, but I always cut a little to the outside, and SAND down to my lines.
If you leave too MUCH wood, you can always clean it up later with sanders.
If you leave too LITTLE, you're done.

Problem 3: Nails for holding the boards together.

If you drill through BOTH boards at once, you should get perfectly aligned holes.

Problem 4: The IPAC. It's excellent, however, how the hell do you attach it to the wood!

They make motherboard-type standoffs for this.
Ultimarc has them on their site.
I personally used a small project box, and screwed it to the bottom of the monitor area before mounting the I-pac inside it.
That would probably have worked in your case as well, although I would probably have screwed it to the back panel where the wood is thicker (I'm assuming).

Problem 5: I used biggish screws with rounded heads - almost the same for the joysticks iirc (but sharp at the end) - at the top four corners.

Can you go back NOW and countersink them?
Black paint does wonders on control panels.

Problem 6: The size and tilt.

There's an optimal tilt in the 5-7 degree range, from what I can tell.
I played with less and more, and both were uncomfortable.
Getting comfortable controls without a cabinet is pretty tricky.

Problem 7: The surface. The wood isn't actually bad, but in the future I'll use plexi or laminate to cover up screws if I can, plus maybe get a touch of custom art on the edges.

You should be able to add art at this point if you want to.
Covering the screws is optional.
If you KNOW you're not going to be removing them (like the ones in the side of my cab), countersink them, and then putty over the top.
If you know you ARE going to remove them, I'd countersink them, but leave them exposed.
A black on black color palette will hide alot of things like this.

Problem 8: The bottom. It just isn't very easy to put a bottom on

A 1/4" slot about a 1/2" up would take care of that, provided that you make the back of the CP removable.
You would unscrew the back panel, and then just slide the bottom out.
Alternately, you could make the back panel level with the top of the slot, and screw the sliding piece to the back panel.

Problem 9: The holes. I bought a drill bit for proper holes. But, it was hard to drill the inside holes with the kind of drill I had. I practiced a lot beforehand though and it came out fine.

What inside holes?
If you are using blocks at the corners to support everything, and want them screwed from the inside, drill the holes while everything is still in pieces, and then assemble it.
I, personally, would just drill/screw everything from the outside, and then touch it up.

Hope this helps with your next project.

[jjhlk]

What inside holes?

Actually I had no idea myself until I read it about six or seven time... I meant the holes on the center of my board. When you have a large board that needs holes in the center and a drill press, it can be tricky. Next time I'll use a portable drill if it is not too difficult.

[NoOne=NBA=]

Oh, THOSE holes.
I used a forstner bit, and a hand drill to do all of those.
You just have to make sure you keep it level while drilling.