Any 3d printer masters willing to help with a Tron stick adapter?

[Shaunvis]

Here's what I got and my plan.
- GGG GPWiz-49 controller
- 49 way controller from GGG
- GGG's Tron handle

I'm trying to figure out a good way to connect the handle to the stick and here's the idea I had.

- Find a long nut that fits the stick. Like whatever is inside a balltop
- 3d print a tube with a hex center that the nut can slide down inside
- Stick the nut in, screw the tube onto the handle
- Then mark the spots on the tube where the handle screws come in, embed a couple nuts and screw the handle on

Does this seem viable? If so, is there anyone that can help? I don't have a 3d printer and no nothing about them really.

[Fursphere]

This is how I would approach the subject...

To mock something up, I'd need the parts in my hands so I can measure everything out.   Or detailed engineering diagrams of all components involved at the very least.   Then I could mock it up in CAD (probably Fusion360) to then produce a prototype.  I'd probably lean towards PETG or ASA/ABS as the material to use.  Assuming you want the trigger to work, you'd need a hollow shaft as well to run the wires through.   Does the shaft on the 49-way joystick freely rotate?  Like a regular Sanwa or Happ stick?   If so, you'd also want someway to prevent rotation, so the wires don't get twisted to the point where they break (or a safety connector that comes apart in the event this happens...).  This is assuming the 49-way joystick you have can even support a hollowed shaft.  If its got an encoder wheel or something hanging off the bottom of the main shaft, you probably can't run wires through it.

Do you have a link to the specific joystick?  The only 49-way I saw on GGG was the Happ.  From the tiny picture, I don't have any idea.

If I remember right, the Tron handle is rather tall, and may create a bit of leverage on the joystick base itself, depending on how spirited your gaming is.  May be more appropriate to machine an aluminum or steel adapter.  Further supported by the need for the shaft to be hollow.  (lathe/mill work, with some specific tooling)

[EvilNuff]

I agree with Fursphere.  When I prototype something it is a lot of trial and error.  I model the part in fusion, print a sample and try it, adjust and rinse repeat.

[Shaunvis]

Yes, it's the one on GGG's site the Happ they no longer carry but didn't come with a top. The shaft does rotate but not easily, it's pretty tight.

I hadn't even thought of the wires, thanks. But I think with a hollow shaft they could be run down inside.

I held the handle over the shaft and realized too that the shaft isn't tall enough to reach the top side screws on the handle. So whatever I do, it would have to extend a bit off the top of the shaft like a bat top but even longer.

Thanks for the tips and questions, it's helped me think of things I hadn't considered. I may be better with metal for durability too.

Back to the drawing board I suppose. Thanks!

[lilshawn]

3d printed would be good for a proof of concept. some libraries' have 3d printers. call around and see. if not do a google search for "maker spaces" they will have a printer for sure... in any case model something up in tinkercad (it's free) and just hold it in your hands and see if it will work. if not, NBD.

maker spaces are full of people who would love to design something like this, and most will have the facilities to make something out of metal.

[Shaunvis]

That's a good idea. I'll have to look for a place like me. I have zero experience with 3d printing or design and would probably spend weeks trying to figure out how to even use the software.

I"m also looking now at metal pipe or tubing. I may take a trip to the store and see what I can find that fits & I can maybe make work

[PL1]

If you can find/design a confirmed good 3d printable model, there are print services that can print parts in metal.


Scott

[Fursphere]

If you can find/design a confirmed good 3d printable model, there are print services that can print parts in metal.


Scott

I've seen the metal 3D printing online a little - but are they even remotely affordable at this point?  I mean, even to commission a one-off job.   Maybe 3D printing with low ash filament to produce a sand mold, and then cast it with aluminum?   But even that requires some specialized equipment (and is rather dangerous if you don't know what you're doing)

I've been blown off a couple of times by taking small one off projects to small machine shops in the Sacramento area - they just didn't have time to even talk to me.  My small projects weren't financially viable.  Even small welding jobs would get pushed away...  if they were not able to charge thousands of dollars, they didn't want to talk to me. 

[PL1]

I've seen the metal 3D printing online a little - but are they even remotely affordable at this point?  I mean, even to commission a one-off job.   Maybe 3D printing with low ash filament to produce a sand mold, and then cast it with aluminum?   But even that requires some specialized equipment (and is rather dangerous if you don't know what you're doing)

For a part like this, I would separate the design process from the fabrication process.

The "lost wax" type process that you describe isn't what I had in mind.

Disclaimer: I haven't looked in-depth or price checked any of the places that offer these types of print services.

One of the processes involves layers of metal powder melted/fused using lasers.
- Shapeways offers this process.



One of the more recent developments is more like a normal 3d printer.
- It dispenses a metal paste and has a drying lamp that does a pass every layer.
- The resulting "green" part then goes in a sintering oven for 12 hours.  When the part comes out of the oven, the paste has fused into solid metal.
- You can also print ceramic paste supports that melt away in the sintering oven.




Scott

[Fursphere]

Interesting.  I've seen the powder / laser method.  That's what I was thinking when you said metal 3d printing.   I wasn't aware of the paste - bake - solid method.  That's a new one to me. 

If I had the parts in my hands, I could go out to my garage machine shop and create what is needed.  I might use 3D printing to create a mock up as I originally mentioned, but I would definitely be machining something out of aluminum for the final part.

I was mentioning the 'lost wax' / 'lost sand' process as a potential alternative.  That's all.  I don't have a furnace or crucible to do this process, but there is a legit old school foundry nearby ( https://knightfoundry.com/ ) that I could talk to if I went that way.  I know a few folks that work/volunteer there.  But even then, the part would require finishing work after the rough casting.  If you're ever around Sutter Creek, CA - stop by a take a tour of that place.  Pretty amazing history there.

[BadMouth]

Different joystick, but may be helpful.
https://www.rototron.info/rototron-tron-joystick/

I'm not familiar with the ggg 49 way joystick.  Like others, I'd have to have the pieces to accomplish anything.  At least need some diameter and thread measurement.

[jeremymtc]

Depending on the specifics of the shaft and the clearance to the inside of the Tron handle, you could probably use a piece of steel or aluminum tubing with the ID tapped to match the top of the joystick shaft instead of using a coupler nut (assuming that the joystick shaft you'll be using is hollow to accommodate the wiring for the button; if not a readily-available coupler nut and a stud could substitute). Then you could longitudinally slot the piece of tubing used as an extender, and slip a washer or other piece of flat stock perpendicular into the slot to act as "ears" to pick up for handle mounting and anti-rotation. This would all be easily doable at home with a minimal investment into tools and materials - a tap, tap handle, and a hacksaw would do it.

You'd still have to figure out how you want to mount the handle to the extender tube, but I'd imagine that you could probably take advantage of existing mounting holes in the handle, or in a pinch just epoxy it to the receiver side of the Tron handle shell once you've got the extender length figured out.

[RandyT]

I'm trying to figure out a good way to connect the handle to the stick and here's the idea I had.

- Find a long nut that fits the stick. Like whatever is inside a balltop
- 3d print a tube with a hex center that the nut can slide down inside
- Stick the nut in, screw the tube onto the handle
- Then mark the spots on the tube where the handle screws come in, embed a couple nuts and screw the handle on

Does this seem viable? If so, is there anyone that can help? I don't have a 3d printer and no nothing about them really.

I assume that you have the "Proteus" stick.  If so, the threads on that one are 1/4-20, so keep that in mind when building.  It will be easy in the US to get parts to interface with them, if you need to.

But my thoughts on how to do this would be:

Design a 3D printed tube with an ID which is a tight fit to the shaft, and an OD which is compatible with the grip.  Melt 2 sets of inserts into the adapter tube, one for mounting the grip, and another set for some pointed-tip set-screws.  I would expect it to hold well enough so long as good material is used for the 3D printing, with a tight enough infill.  Obviously, metal would be better, but I think you could get away with it, so long as the screws weren't so tight as to crack the print.  With a little extra design effort, you could even include a channel for the switch wiring. 

But honestly, some long setting, gap filling CA adhesive between the shaft and the printed part is likely to be all you need for a permanent connection to the shaft without the complexity of the set screws.  I would probably make the ID of the printed part to be slightly larger if going this route, but just enough to allow it to be easily adjusted after applying the adhesive and no more.

On the subject of wiring, the joystick actuator should be snug against the grommet to prevent turning of the stick. The base can be mounted with some short standoff's to allow for the wires to pass between it and the underside of the panel.  Just be aware of pinch points and manage the wires appropriately.

[Shaunvis]

I just got the stick from you a week or so ago, is that the Proteus? If so it's 1/4-20 then?

I gathered up some stuff and was going to try to piece t together and see how it works.

Home Depot had some copper tubing that's slightly bigger than the shaft. I was going to try and put a coupling nut at the top of the shaft, use set screws to hold the tube on the nut, then screw the handle into the tube. Seemed the easiest and cheapest thing I could think of.

If that doesn't work I'll try one of the other ideas.

I appreciate the help!

[RandyT]

I just got the stick from you a week or so ago, is that the Proteus? If so it's 1/4-20 then?

That would be correct then.

Home Depot had some copper tubing that's slightly bigger than the shaft. I was going to try and put a coupling nut at the top of the shaft, use set screws to hold the tube on the nut, then screw the handle into the tube. Seemed the easiest and cheapest thing I could think of.

To maybe save you some time and expense, copper is VERY soft metal.  It's very easy to overtighten a screw and pull the theads out.  Just something to keep that in mind when deciding on your approach.

[Fursphere]

To maybe save you some time and expense, copper is VERY soft metal.  It's very easy to overtighten a screw and pull the theads out.  Just something to keep that in mind when deciding on your approach.

Second this.   If you had a copper BAR and were machining it, sure.  But copper tubing is extremely thin.  And it gets more complicated based on what grade you're looking at.  (and copper tube and copper pipe are very different products - keep that in mind as well)

[Shaunvis]

Still working on this. I've had more time to think than actually do anything lately so I haven't accomplished anything. I'm hoping with the holidays I get some free time and can sort this out.

I'm also trying to figure out a plan for my Alan-1 Star Wars yoke too but that actually seems easier than this stick.