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Author Topic: Button size question  (Read 1839 times)

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gms1975

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Button size question
« on: August 30, 2022, 08:19:37 am »
I just got an old empty arcade cabinet to use for a project.  It has a metal control panel with button holes cut into it already.  Some are the standard size for a modern microswitch pushbutton.  Others are  1 1/4" in diameter.  The buttons go in, but when tightened sink partially crooked in the holes.  Is there a larger button size I can use for this issue or does someone make a larger washer of some sort for this?
Thanks
« Last Edit: August 30, 2022, 09:45:48 am by gms1975 »

BadMouth

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Re: Button size question
« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2022, 10:48:18 am »
If the holes for buttons used during gameplay aren't mixed, Japanese buttons like Sanwa and Seimitsu are 30mm (1.18") would work.
If they are mixed and the spacing allows for it, you could enlarge the smaller ones to 1 1/4" using a step drill and then have all Japanese style buttons.
I would use the ones with screw on collar rather than the snap in type.
No classic style buttons come in this diameter.

This is a common problem.  I am sure others will weigh in on more traditional ways to fix it for standard 1-1/8" buttons.

lilshawn

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Re: Button size question
« Reply #2 on: August 30, 2022, 01:43:10 pm »
1-1/8th inch is typical for regular pushbuttons... some of the weird lighted/shaped buttons from happ are like 1" ... and like you say, someone carved out some 1-1/4" holes (either not knowing they are 1-1/8th and used 1-1/4" or  had a rough time with a 1-1/8th inch bit walking around and it ended up oversize.

in any case, how you want to go about this is going to depend on how you plan to finish the panel later.

if you are straight up painting it, you will likely end up having to weld around the edge of the holes to build them back up again and the use a die grinder/dremel on the holes to grind them to the proper size again.

if you want to start all over and/or move stuff all over and are going to have a pile of holes, get yourself a replacement panel. what you'll need is going to depend on the cabinet... but stuff like that is available...

https://twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=219_248

if you are just covering it with plexi and artwork, don't worry too much about it. make sure your plexi has the proper size holes... the artwork will cover most of the errors in the metal anyway.

don't torque the buttons way down. just snug to keep them from moving during play... this isn't a machine out in public that people will be actively trying to pry and take ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- off it at every moment.

alternatively see if you can find some 1-1/4 tube with a 1/16th wall (0.0625 wall), that will make a tube that is 1-1/4 on the outside, and 1-1/8 on the inside... you can cut some slivers off of it and create a shim to go between the button threaded portion and the panel... (effectively increasing the button shank diameter to 1-1/4". never tried this suggestion ... just throwing that out there.

leapinlew

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Re: Button size question
« Reply #3 on: August 30, 2022, 04:49:47 pm »
I have had luck securing a piece of wood under the control panel and cutting 1 1/8" holes in it to fix this type of problem.

RandyT

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Re: Button size question
« Reply #4 on: September 01, 2022, 06:58:51 pm »
If you know someone with a laser cutter, get some 1/16" black (or clear) plexi and ask them to make you some custom washers. You'll need 2 for each button.  As long as they are only as large as necessary to fix the largest hole, and used on all of the buttons to keep things uniform, it shouldn't look bad.  If the big ones are are for non-playing functions, like start buttons, just do those. 

The suggestion for an acrylic overlay is also a good one, but not the simplest and washers will still likely be necessary below the panel.

If you can't find anyone to do this for you, drop me an email to set up a special order through the store.  If I thought there was a market for such a thing, they would already be on there :)   
« Last Edit: September 01, 2022, 07:00:54 pm by RandyT »

PL1

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Re: Button size question
« Reply #5 on: September 01, 2022, 08:17:02 pm »
Would a 3d printed or a two-layer laser-cut stepped washer under the panel work for this application?

The top step Z-axis should be very slightly thinner than the metal panel with an I.D. of 1-1/8" and an O.D. of 1-1/4".
- This layer would keep the button centered, preventing it from shifting to the side and pulling the bezel into the hole when the nut is tightened.

The bottom step could be a bit thicker with an I.D. of 1-1/8" and an O.D. of slightly greater than 1-1/4".
- 33mm should be about the same O.D. as the button nut so it won't be too large for even tightly-spaced buttons.


Scott

RandyT

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Re: Button size question
« Reply #6 on: September 02, 2022, 12:58:09 pm »
Would a 3d printed or a two-layer laser-cut stepped washer under the panel work for this application?

The top step Z-axis should be very slightly thinner than the metal panel with an I.D. of 1-1/8" and an O.D. of 1-1/4".
- This layer would keep the button centered, preventing it from shifting to the side and pulling the bezel into the hole when the nut is tightened.

The bottom step could be a bit thicker with an I.D. of 1-1/8" and an O.D. of slightly greater than 1-1/4".
- 33mm should be about the same O.D. as the button nut so it won't be too large for even tightly-spaced buttons.


Sure, that would work.  The tricky part might be getting the height of the inner part to be correct in a thin metal panel.   Ideally, it would want to be slightly tall and sanded flush for a perfect fit.

The only reason I wouldn't recommend the 3D printer path is the time and cost to do it.  I could have a full panel's worth of washers cut on the laser before one of the above finished printing :)

PL1

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Re: Button size question
« Reply #7 on: September 02, 2022, 03:12:17 pm »
The only reason I wouldn't recommend the 3D printer path is the time and cost to do it.  I could have a full panel's worth of washers cut on the laser before one of the above finished printing :)
The time and cost depends on what tools one has at their disposal, the material selected, and whether they're just making a few of them or gearing up for mass production.

AFAIK filament is less expensive than acrylic sheets.

It only took a few minutes to make this parametric model in OpenSCAD.
- Model hasn't been tested.  Adjust the variables on lines 9-15 as needed.

Code: [Select]
// Stepped Washer

// The diameter values may need to be *very slightly* larger to account for the 180-sided polygon used to render circles -- see "undersized holes" at https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Primitive_Solids#cylinder

/////////////////////////////
//  Adjustable variables
/////////////////////////////

TopStepOD = 31.5; // Top Step Outer Diameter
TopStepHeight = 1.8; // Top Step Height

BottomStepOD = 33; // Bottom Step Outer Diameter
BottomStepHeight = 2; // Bottom Step Height

InnerDiameter = 29; // Center Hole

// Number of fragments (polygon sides) used to render a full circle.
    $fn = 180; // Default = 180  Typical range = 6 - 360
    // 6 will render a circular hole as a hexagon, 8 will render a circular hole as an octagon.
    // Lower the number for faster rendering, raise the number for smoother rendering.


/////////////////////////////
//  Make the part
/////////////////////////////

difference(){ // Washer steps minus center hole

    union(){ // Washer steps

        translate([0, 0, BottomStepHeight + TopStepHeight / 2])
        cylinder (TopStepHeight, d = TopStepOD, center=true); // Top step

        translate([0, 0, BottomStepHeight / 2])
        cylinder (BottomStepHeight, d = BottomStepOD, center=true); // Bottom step

    } // End washer steps
//
    translate([0, 0, (BottomStepHeight + TopStepHeight) / 2])
    cylinder (BottomStepHeight + TopStepHeight + 0.01, d = InnerDiameter, center=true); // Center hole

} // End washer steps minus center hole
//

I agree that your laser cutter is much faster than a 3d printer, but 3d printers are more commonly available than laser cutters.

Remember that postage adds to the time and cost.   ;)


Scott

RandyT

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Re: Button size question
« Reply #8 on: September 02, 2022, 03:32:20 pm »
I agree that your laser cutter is much faster than a 3d printer, but 3d printers are more commonly available than laser cutters.

Remember that postage adds to the time and cost.   ;)

That it does.  OP should do whatever works best for him.  I just mentioned that in case he ends up needing to pay for them.  Time is money, even on a 3D printer.