Vents or fans? (Pc in stand-up cabinet)

[Marsupial]

I have been running the same computer for nearly 10 years.

This year lots of changes on the cabinet.

New monitor (CRT VGA)
New control panel
New overlays

Right now the front glass and backdoor are removed for control panel testing.
I feel warmth over the monitor when playing.

I've used the cabinet quite extensively in the past, sometimes several hours, without any apparent issues.

Should I induce forced exhaust fans? Add vents for the hot air to escape?

I'm thinking of putting a fan on the backdoor between where the pc and monitors are.

Any opinions?

Thx

[meyer980]

As longs as there is a good way for some air to escape (vents) you should be fine. That's assuming your PC has its normal fans attached. CRTs tend to run a bit warmer than an LCD but most games back in the day didn't have or need active cooling.

[Marsupial]

As longs as there is a good way for some air to escape (vents) you should be fine. That's assuming your PC has its normal fans attached. CRTs tend to run a bit warmer than an LCD but most games back in the day didn't have or need active cooling.

Thanks @meyer980

That's what I figured when I originally built it in 2010.
This used to be a large monitor pointing up to a mirror.

Thing is, the best place to put a fan would be somewhat where the monitor is, so prone to be visible trough the front glass.


The PC has 3 (somewhat noisy) fans - front intake, rear exhaust, CPU fan.
No cover. There's 2/3 of the cabinet for heat to accumulate.

The cabinet has a few opening on the lower back for cool air to come from, and transport handle holes on the rear top, for heat to get out.


I may put one small exhaust fan & grill up top to run everything cooler...

[Phreakwars]

I agree with vents. The less moving parts the better. Moving parts wear down and if you are just playing emulated games, very low chance that anything at all will overheat, though if you DO want to cool with fans, consider using a super huge fan, like a 250mm https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?N=100007998%20600035596 or even a 200mm. They run on 12v, but you can also wire them for 5v. You'll get a slower spinning fan, yes, but it will still cool, and the life of the fan will be alot longer. Another advantage of larger fans, is they will run almost dead silent while moving tons of air.

[Malenko]

a vent in the top is all you need, maybe replace the fans in the computer with some nice noctuas.

[Marsupial]

a vent in the top is all you need, maybe replace the fans in the computer with some nice noctuas.

I've ben building computers for years but it's the first time I hear about noctua... Google tells me they make premium quiet fans...
That's very interesting!

Because the CPU fan on this thing is noisy. I'd be very happy to get this cabinet quiet!

[Marsupial]

I agree with vents. The less moving parts the better. Moving parts wear down and if you are just playing emulated games, very low chance that anything at all will overheat, though if you DO want to cool with fans, consider using a super huge fan, like a 250mm https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?N=100007998%20600035596 or even a 200mm. They run on 12v, but you can also wire them for 5v. You'll get a slower spinning fan, yes, but it will still cool, and the life of the fan will be alot longer. Another advantage of larger fans, is they will run almost dead silent while moving tons of air.

I like the idea of slower fans mainly for reduced noise. But, perhaps I'll simply open up a vent and call it a day. But I need to come up with a vent design that won't leak light through.....

[Marsupial]

This is the current CPU cooler.

Honestly, I have a ton of those. The form factor is unusual.

Are there quieter options for that thing?

[Zebidee]

When I ran my cabs in a temperate climate, fans were never a big issue so long as you had ventilation. Now I am running cabs in a tropical climate and it gets quite hot in there, so I like to have TWO fans, one at the bottom and another up near the top.

I also installed bug mesh across all the openings to try and keep the little gecko lizards out. They ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- on the monitor screen under the front glass, which is a PITA to remove as moving the glass is a semi-major operation, I have to unscrew everything. Also at one point a lizard left a ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- across some of the video card finger connectors and my motherboard went *poof*, time for new PC. So, now I install bug mesh across all the openings.

If you are living in Australia right now (guessing here from your name) you might want to consider making it mouse-proof too.

[Marsupial]

If you are living in Australia right now (guessing here from your name) you might want to consider making it mouse-proof too.

Australia is awesome but I currently live on the other side of the world in Canada, where we get 40 degrees in the summer and -40 in the winter.
Or sometimes the four seasons in one day.

So far I didn't get any wildlife in the cabinet. Although I recently cleaned up the insides so nothing but the coin box lays at the bottom.

[Zebidee]

Canada, wow. I miss the great land of Oz too. Mouse plague atm.

I once restored a couple of lowboy cabs that had been rodent homes in Wollongong, OMG the smell. The whole bottom parts were full of ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- and (worse) urine. You just had to grab gloves and a mask and get into it. After cleaning as best as possible I used a brush to work in several layers of PVA glue to give the MDF some strength back and lock in the remaining smell. Then painted over top of that. Got them for free but ended up looking (and smelling) nice and sold for good $$.

[Malenko]

there's tons of vents that don't let much light in



As for Noctua, they are amazing. They used to be known for how great and ugly their fans were but they started making grey ones now.  As for the CPU cooler, I can't tell what chipset that is so I cant suggest one but I do see the floppy power connector

[Marsupial]

I'd really prefer a circular vent for ease of installation. So far what I have found is either too big, too open (like a grill) or anything.  I will continue looking around.



The processor in there is a Pentium 4 CPU 3.00 Ghz.

[Zebidee]

I'd really prefer a circular vent for ease of installation. So far what I have found is either too big, too open (like a grill) or anything.  I will continue looking around.

There is nothing wrong with a square plate with vents (say, like Malenko suggested), but covering a round hole.

Put some bug mesh behind it, you won't be able to see it.

[Vocalitus]

I live in a regular hot environment and until just recently a hellish one too clocking at 120F.

I have a gaming PC that tends to thermal throttle from time to time, even though the cooler is more than adequate and I have 6 RGB (three 120mmin the front, two 80mm on top and one 120mm in the back) fans in the case alone.

I also have a box fan that I got at Home Depot for $18 which is black and matches the side of the exposed PC case.  I got an Ideal Air controller that slows the box fan and it doesn't sound like turboprop.

No dust inside the case (looks brand new) and temps are at winter level (85F).  I bought some large 5v fans and it clears any exhaust heat from the desk.  I also have a box fan filter which is very important for $5 (you have to look for them at Home Depot).

Best part is no more thermal throttling, and the room doesn't feel 10 degrees hotter too.   

[Marsupial]

I'd really prefer a circular vent for ease of installation. So far what I have found is either too big, too open (like a grill) or anything.  I will continue looking around.

There is nothing wrong with a square plate with vents (say, like Malenko suggested), but covering a round hole.

Put some bug mesh behind it, you won't be able to see it.

For sone reason, it didn't occur to me to put circular holes behind a rectangular vent. It's not a bad idea at all, will be much cleaner and leave less light.

[Malenko]

The processor in there is a Pentium 4 CPU 3.00 Ghz.

Socket 478 or LGA 775? (Im guessing LGA based on the HSF pin holes)

if its an LGA there's a TOOONNNNNN of options, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Antec-Cooler-Intel-Socket-A30/dp/B083PTR12P/

and yes, you can just cut a round hole and plop a square plate over it, no one will ever know but you.

[Marsupial]

It is an LGA775 socket.

That's the motherboard
https://www.asus.com/supportonly/P5GD1-VM/HelpDesk_Manual/

https://www.cnet.com/products/asus-p5gd1-vm-motherboard-micro-atx-lga775-socket-i915g-series/

Thanks for the hand, I'll hunt down a quiet fan.

I currently have two fans on the casing. I can't hear them over the CPU fan, it's too noisy!

[Marsupial]

I'll look at the possibility of simply slowing down the current HSF to see how quiet I can make it be without compromising the processor.

The intel fan has a 4th control pin meant just for that, there must be a way to intelligently control that?

[Phreakwars]

Try a Zalman CNPS9500AT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HKDA0U It's an old school (probably 12 years now I'd say) all copper CPU cooler with PWM. I've used the hell out of these in PC builds over the years. It is hands down THE BEST and quietest cooler that I have ever used on the 775 platform. Only thing about them though, is they are kind of sharp with those real thin fins, easy to cut yourself. You might wanna use gloves when installing it. The temp and dB difference though, is absolutely amazing. It's one of those classic coolers that they should have never quit making. Fortunately you can still get them on Amazon and eBay. And if you REALLY REALLY wanna go extreme, pair it with some Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut. EDIT: DANGEROUS STUFF, BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN APPLYING.

[Marsupial]

I've ran tests with controlling the CPU fan speed, only to realize it isn't the CPU fan that I keep hearing, but the power supplies. The Intell HSF is actually quite capable and not much noisy, but this is a 3U Rackmount casing with dual power supply, and the fans in there are what's been doint all the noise.

... not sure I can do much about that, besides changing casing, but I had modded the cabinet to accept rackmount casing so I'm not sure I can actually get this quieter.

[Marsupial]

there's tons of vents that don't let much light in

Where do we get these vents? I can't find them anywhere 

[Mike A]

https://www.amazon.com/Boone-Hearth-Stainless-Outdoor-Islands/dp/B01LWLUQDT/ref=asc_df_B01LWLUQDT/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198096371923&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3487363169191756934&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021472&hvtargid=pla-354443970463&psc=1

These are smaller.

https://www.amazon.com/Douzime-Ventilation-Stainless-Stamped-Venting/dp/B08ZJ4X474/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=square+steel+vent+plate&qid=1624369510&sr=8-12

[Marsupial]

Both of them don't seem to deliver to Canada - they fail to display them in Amazon.ca.



I like the smaller ones - one would be plenty ennough and easy to install.

[Marsupial]

Thanks Mike for posting these, from these I figured the proper keywords for finding them is "louver grill"

(being french speaking, I never heard of the word louver. had to google it...)

[Marsupial]

Yeah, pricing ain't exactly the same when you cross the border

At least they do ship, unlike Arcadeshop who refuses to ship " international" because of the pandemic...

[Mike A]

I know Home Depot has them too.

My local store did not have them.

I had to order them.

[Marsupial]

It looks like there's a similar, white one available at my local home depot. I'll pay them a visit and find out.

Thanks Mike.

[Zebidee]

I've gotten vents exactly like that made up to order by a metal workshop in Australia. Just find a local shop, go with some pics and dimensions and ask. I can't remember how much it cost, but it wasn't terribly expensive. I imagine prices in Canada would be similar, though metal shops in Thailand are even cheaper!

[Marsupial]

I imagine prices in Canada would be similar, though metal shops in Thailand are even cheaper!

Except that shopping Thailand to Canada takes forever

[Marsupial]

Local home depot had louver grills, but they sucked.

Found one like Mike showed, on eBay.

Thanks to everyone.

[Malenko]

I gotta ask though... why dont you upgrade your hardware?

It sounds like you have a desktop PC in a server case?  Socket T has been dead for over a decade, even a second gen sandybridge or 3rd gen Ivybridge would be a massive update faster memory, sata ports, multi cores, etc

[Marsupial]

I gotta ask though... why dont you upgrade your hardware?

It sounds like you have a desktop PC in a server case?  Socket T has been dead for over a decade, even a second gen sandybridge or 3rd gen Ivybridge would be a massive update faster memory, sata ports, multi cores, etc

Well, it works well and I have a ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- load of spare parts.

Except the odd gauntlet legends, there's nothing that refused to run correctly.

If it ain't broke....

[Zebidee]

I gotta ask though... why dont you upgrade your hardware?

It sounds like you have a desktop PC in a server case?  Socket T has been dead for over a decade, even a second gen sandybridge or 3rd gen Ivybridge would be a massive update faster memory, sata ports, multi cores, etc

Well, it works well and I have a ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- load of spare parts.

Except the odd gauntlet legends, there's nothing that refused to run correctly.

If it ain't broke....

One thing worth thinking about is a newer (or less old) computer will use a lot less power and generate less heat. So less ventilation required.

I'm a hypocrite of course because I've also got an ancient P4 3.0Ghz (Prescott CPU) PC in my cab at the moment. I need to replace it with something else when I get the chance because the Prescott's have known issues, including that they can get quite hot.

[Marsupial]

I gotta ask though... why dont you upgrade your hardware?

It sounds like you have a desktop PC in a server case?  Socket T has been dead for over a decade, even a second gen sandybridge or 3rd gen Ivybridge would be a massive update faster memory, sata ports, multi cores, etc

Well, it works well and I have a ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- load of spare parts.

Except the odd gauntlet legends, there's nothing that refused to run correctly.

If it ain't broke....

One thing worth thinking about is a newer (or less old) computer will use a lot less power and generate less heat. So less ventilation required.

I'm a hypocrite of course because I've also got an ancient P4 3.0Ghz (Prescott CPU) PC in my cab at the moment. I need to replace it with something else when I get the chance because the Prescott's have known issues, including that they can get quite hot.

Honestly I prefer spending on other upgrades at the moment. Building a PC is costly and time consuming, and this machine works like a charm.

When I get to somewhere that having this older machine becomes a problem, I'll re-evaluate, but it is a workhorse and is super stable.

I believe most of the heat comes from the CRT anyway.

[Malenko]

build? nah buy a used one for pennies on the dollar.

Still, I'd love to see some pictures of what exactly you're working with.

[Marsupial]

I like the rackmount casing. Makes everything sturdy.

When I upgrade, it'll be in another rackmount (or the same casing)

It just makes sense in the arcade cabinet.

[Malenko]

I like the rackmount casing. Makes everything sturdy.

When I upgrade, it'll be in another rackmount (or the same casing)

It just makes sense in the arcade cabinet.

To each his own, but it sounds like loud power supplies will always be a factor. I have a mid-tower ATX in my unnamed project , its whisper quiet and everything runs well under 60C

[Marsupial]

I like the rackmount casing. Makes everything sturdy.

When I upgrade, it'll be in another rackmount (or the same casing)

It just makes sense in the arcade cabinet.

To each his own, but it sounds like loud power supplies will always be a factor. I have a mid-tower ATX in my unnamed project , its whisper quiet and everything runs well under 60C

When I change the computer, I'll use an atx rackmount instead on this dual PSU rackmount. Much more quiet.

[thelanranger]

I have been running the same computer for nearly 10 years.

This year lots of changes on the cabinet.

New monitor (CRT VGA)
New control panel
New overlays

Right now the front glass and backdoor are removed for control panel testing.
I feel warmth over the monitor when playing.

I've used the cabinet quite extensively in the past, sometimes several hours, without any apparent issues.

Should I induce forced exhaust fans? Add vents for the hot air to escape?

I'm thinking of putting a fan on the backdoor between where the pc and monitors are.

Any opinions?

Thx

As an IT guy, people are a bit obsessed with fans. Computer/electronic equipment works perfectly fine at pretty high temperatures for VERY long periods of time. As long as the cabinet that you're putting everything in has holes of some kind in it for air movement it's likely fine. You're going to 'feel heat' when it's at 80-90 degrees but as long as it's 90 degree exhaust air and the system is fine with that and is likely designed to operate at that temperature.
If something has a fan (like the computer CPU fan) just make sure you have at least that large of a hole for incoming cool air and outgoing exhaust (and other devices...total). Also, remember that heat rises. So, vents at the top for exhaust, vents at the bottom for intake.

[Malenko]

Computer/electronic equipment works perfectly fine at pretty high temperatures for VERY long periods of time.

If you think 90C is normal operating temps I hope you haven't been in IT long.

[Marsupial]

Computer/electronic equipment works perfectly fine at pretty high temperatures for VERY long periods of time.

If you think 90C is normal operating temps I hope you haven't been in IT long.

I try to keep my CPU from reaching 60.

Current temps show a stable 45, with the glass off. I think the hot air comes from my monitor. If anything, I need to exhaust air from the top to avoid it getting under, to the pc area.

I have a grill cover in the mail, and will put a low speed fan on it to help with exhaust. Should work well in my case.

[TOMMYGUN]

Though it is better to blow in cool air then to exhaust warm air,
you would think it is the same but in the overclocking community i always heard that it is better to pressurize then to suck air out,
for better reach of the cool air everywhere, i think.

Also if you suck air out you will hear the fan more then if you blow in.