Sega Nascar Racing conversion

[PL1]

I tried the pedals and the G27 register a false clutch signal when I press the gas pedal. Do I need to wire the clutch pin with the ground wire?

That can happen when you leave an analog input "floating" with no input connected to an input wire.

The wire acts like an antenna and picks up signals and expanding/collapsing magnetic fields.

I grounded the clutch, problem solved!

That's one good way to fix it.   

If the clutch is on the Z-axis, it may cause a runaway scrolling issue in some front ends.

The un-centered Z-axis (a.k.a. mouse scroll wheel) causes the MAMEUIFX menu (and probably many others) to constantly scroll.

You can avoid that issue by using a pot that isn't attached to a pedal or two *equal value* resistors to make a voltage divider that provides 2.5v on the clutch wiper wire to the encoder so the axis is always centered.
- 1/4W or 1/8W resistors between 2.5k and 50k will be perfect substitutes for pedal pots between 5k and 100k.

     5v ---- resistor 1 ---- clutch wiper ---- resistor 2 ---- ground


Scott

[fablog]

Thanks Scott, I'll check that with my Launchox setup.
I would like to use the 5 arcade  speakers.  I think the input is only 2.0 but the cabinet sound amp output 4.1 channels. Do you think It could be possible to connect it to a computer and get the same result?

[fablog]

Well, a miracle happened, I got the wife approval to put the cabinet in my basement 
When you got the green light, don't wait! You never know what could happen the next day. So I immediately moved it and reconnected everything. The location in my basement is perfect as you can see in the pictures below.





I changed the wires to connect the original pedals to the G27, I went with a phone cable. It's the perfect size to position it below the G27.



The speakers are in working conditions. I need to amplify them, but I'm still looking for a solution to get a 4.1 sound with emulated games. Do you know if it's possible to connect an original sega amp to a PC and get 4.1 channels?

[fablog]

Bye bye Pop rivet:


A friend of mine helped me to cut the plastic part of the dashboard with a rotary tool:



We did the same with the metal part with and angle grinder:




I used an old computer with an I5 CPU (3rd generation), 8GB, and a GTX 960. It only have a stereo output so I bought a used Sound Blaster USB X-finity pro. I bought a used creative labs 7.1 sound system (Inspire P7800) and connected the stock speakers to it. The sub is inside the metal box, right under the seat:


I fixed the G27 to MDF with M10 screws:


Here how it feets inside the dashboard. The rear will be fixed to the metal structure inside the cab.


I bought a VR buttons panel for 25$ (CAD):


To connect the stock shifter to a Zerodelay, I ordered a 3 wire shifter to IPAC to a nice guy in https://www.aussiearcade.com/


To be continued...

[Rockstead]

Good price for the VR buttons, did you find them local or online? I managed to find some local but I paid double what you paid.

Can you tell me what you did to connect the buttons, did you leave the original circuit board or did you remove it and wire each light?

[fablog]

The same guy who sold me the cabinet has that in stock. It wasn't a normal price
It's still not connected, it's not a priority right now. I need to buy a PAC drive and itshould work with a Zero delay, the same I will use for the shifter.

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[fablog]

Howard, Is it possible to use an Arduino with Mamehooker to control the lamps?

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[Howard_Casto]

Yeah, others have done it via the serial interface.   I don't have a good example to post unfortunately.   

[fablog]

OK thanks Howard!

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[baritonomarchetto]

I wrote a full guide about Mame outputs, arduino and cheap driver boards. There are also step-by-step instructions on how to use mamehooker and arduino. It's in Italian, but maybe google translate is good enought to let you understand now 

Here is the link (it's another forum, feel free to delete the link on this post if it's a problem)

https://coinoparena.forumfree.it/m/?t=77556101

[fablog]

Thanks Barito. My knowledge in electronic is very limited. After reading your tutorial I'm wondering if it would be easier to buy a Pac-drive instead. It seems I have to use transistors. What do you think?

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[baritonomarchetto]

Well, if this is your conclusion, then I failed! 

In the link above you have an almost step-by-step guide to solve your problem, so it's only a matter of spending the due time on it.
If you start a project a little more complex than installing a jpac and seting up a PC (like your project) you should take your time and study a little. Almost everithing has just written, as you can see... and for questions, forums like this are goldmines.

Anyway the pac drive is not enought to control your lamps (for sure is not enought for leader lamps, not only because the current rating, but also because those are likely AC and not DC): if I am correct, it can control no more than 500 mA total, so you have to rely on some driver board antway. Looks like it's based on simple Darlinghton arrays.
It could be sufficient for view lamps, but only because they play one at a time...

[fablog]

I was just wondering, I don't have any opinion on the subject I don't have enough spare time recently, so I weight my options. I don't have leader lamps in my cab, so I'm looking for the easiest solution. Thanks for your help, it's very appreciated.

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