Those of you with the Ultimarc Ikari style rotary control...

[CitznFish]

what did you use to lock down the ball top on your joystick? NBD turning it right, but turning it left unscrews the ball top. I am wondering if some Locktite™ is sufficient?

[MydknyteStyrm]

Plumbers tape


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[CitznFish]

regular old teflon tape? hmm..I'll give it a go but I'm not holding my breath on that one, lol.

[PL1]

You could 3d print one of these repro LS-30 handles and use an M6 locknut . . .
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,158266.0.html



. . . or you can use vise-grips padded with a thin scrap of cardboard to hold the shaft while you tighten the balltop.
- If that doesn't work, add a lock-washer/star-washer under the balltop.




Scott

[CitznFish]

You could 3d print one of these repro LS-30 handles and use an M6 locknut . . .
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,158266.0.html



. . . or you can use vise-grips padded with a thin scrap of cardboard to hold the shaft while you tighten the balltop.
- If that doesn't work, add a lock-washer/star-washer under the balltop.




Scott

This is def one of those times I wish i had a 3d printer, lol.

[mahuti]

This is def one of those times I wish i had a 3d printer, lol.

I've seen repro tops like these on Etsy by the way.

[CitznFish]

Oh cool, I'll take a look

[mahuti]

I looked them up. They won't be any better... they're just spin-ons like your existing stick.

That said, if you use Loctite RED instead of BLUE you might have more luck keeping the tops really locked on. RED is similar to glue and is really hard to get undone (but not impossible). Much harder than BLUE.

Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration

[Howard_Casto]

I figure a set screw would solve those problems.  Just drill a hole through the side into the shaft and throw a set screw in there.  If you have a lot of arcade hardware lying around you might have one in a spinner or anything with a knob. 

[PL1]

I looked them up. They won't be any better... they're just spin-ons like your existing stick.

Are they using threaded inserts or plain nuts instead of lock-nuts?  Because that's . . . just plain nuts.   

If they're using nylock lock-nuts there should be no way they twist loose in normal usage unless they make the same mistake I made with the first iteration -- a cylindrical hollow for the nut.
- You can't secure the printed material between the lock-nut hollow (white) and shaft (green) with enough tension to prevent slippage.  There's no brass insert in the handle so when (not if) the printed material shreds or crushes even 0.001", the handle will spin easily.   



Got a link? (I looked but couldn't find them.)


Scott

[mahuti]

They are using threaded inserts.  It doesn't have a top down lock nut like a regular LS-30. There is no top opening. They're basically useless.

[Sky25es]

Just use a very small amount of epoxy glue.
It's what I used and it holds the handle in place. Plus you still can unscrew the top if you need it if you apply some force.