Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up --- Bug Reports --- Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

  

Author Topic: Best way to mount Atari Volcano/Cone buttons in a 3/4" MDF control panel please  (Read 1358 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Cloakandmail

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9
  • Last login:October 02, 2020, 09:56:57 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Hi, I recently purchased a pair of reproduction Atari cone buttons for my scratch build Centipede cabinet (see attachment).

If I remove the locking nut but keep the washer the tall cone screws in at the correct height for the correct button exposure.

Due to the shape of the switch I am aware of 2 options to mount in a 3/4" piece of mdf.

1) cut out most the mdf to accomodate the switch leaving a very thin layer of mdf
2) I read a suggestion somewhere to flush mount a metal plate. After routing, how would I stick the metal to the mdf and how would I fill it to blend it all in so that it would be invisible when the laminated vinyl overlay is stuck on top.

or does somebody have a better suggestion please?

Thank you.

MartyKong

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 110
  • Last login:October 18, 2020, 12:39:39 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
I think your on the right track with the metal plate. I mounted a metal plate in 3/4" ply to accommodate a joystick designed for this. What I would do is grab a metal junction box cover (cut down to size) and drill your button hole in the center. On the four outside edges drill and countersink pan head screw holes. Line this up, draw a pencil mark around and router out the area so the plate sits flush. Now remove this and cut out enough of the wood where you will screw the button nut up. Now just screw down your plate and skim over with bondo/filler and sand smooth. It's just that easy ;D

bobbyb13

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 170
  • Last login:Today at 05:38:27 am
  • I'm TRYing to build arcade controls!
Metal is good if you have a router to counter sink it.
You can manage just with the 3/4" mdf or plywood also though.  You have to be conscious of the steps but it is do-able.  Doing a good job requires a few tools however.

1/8"- 1/4" pilot bit
1-1/8" hole saw
Depth collar to fit that hole saw (or a piece of tape you are careful to mind.)
Piece of pipe to fit 1-1/8" holesaw cut (mine is 3" long)
1" Forstner bit with stop collar set to bottom out in piece of pipe.
3/4" hole saw

This is how I did it in 3/4" ply for a Missile Command layout but would apply to anything that you have the space for.

Mark where you want the switches mounted on the top of the panel and drill a pilot hole all the way through.
Flip the panel over.  Your large holesaw cut is done from the bottom side.
Set the collar (or masking tape!) on the 1-1/8" hole saw to a cut depth of 9/16" and chase your pilot hole to that depth.
Flip panel back over and chase your pilot hole with the 3/4" holesaw and bore all the way through the panel.
Flip panel back over and fit pipe into 1-1/8" cut from the bottom and use Forstner bit to bore your 9/16" deep cut clear of material.

There is plenty of room for the switch mount and should be enough thread showing to catch the volcano trim.
Best to practice on a scrap piece first of course!  Not all of those switches and trim pieces are identical.

Hope this helps.
If you want more detail please ask!

Bobby
Why'd you kick me?
Where's your brain?

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6810
  • Last login:Today at 11:05:07 am
    • Bella's Arcade
Where do you buy volcano buttons?  I will order 2 of them and mount them in 3/4" MDF (with a vinyl wrapped top) and post my results.  I just need the buttons!

JDFan

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3425
  • Last login:October 15, 2020, 07:02:57 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Where do you buy volcano buttons?  I will order 2 of them and mount them in 3/4" MDF (with a vinyl wrapped top) and post my results.  I just need the buttons!

http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/1539/atari-lighted-start-push-button.htm

PL1

  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7999
  • Last login:Today at 09:33:55 am
  • Designated spam hunter
Where do you buy volcano buttons?  I will order 2 of them and mount them in 3/4" MDF (with a vinyl wrapped top) and post my results.  I just need the buttons!

http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/1539/atari-lighted-start-push-button.htm
Arcadeshop also carries the three types of volcano cone bezels:
- Tall plastic: http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/568/atari-tall-black-button-cone.htm
- Short black: http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/1135/atari-short-black-button-cone.htm
- Short silver/aluminum: http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/566/atari-short-aluminum-button-cone.htm


Scott

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6810
  • Last login:Today at 11:05:07 am
    • Bella's Arcade
Where do you buy volcano buttons?  I will order 2 of them and mount them in 3/4" MDF (with a vinyl wrapped top) and post my results.  I just need the buttons!

http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/1539/atari-lighted-start-push-button.htm
Arcadeshop also carries the three types of volcano cone bezels:
- Tall plastic: http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/568/atari-tall-black-button-cone.htm
- Short black: http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/1135/atari-short-black-button-cone.htm
- Short silver/aluminum: http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/566/atari-short-aluminum-button-cone.htm


Scott

Thanks guys.  I ordered a pair... $40 for 2 buttons wow!  I got the "short" cones in black.  I will be using them for P1 Start and P2 Start on the Asteroids-inspired cab I've been working on...

JDFan

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3425
  • Last login:October 15, 2020, 07:02:57 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Thanks guys.  I ordered a pair... $40 for 2 buttons wow!  I got the "short" cones in black.  I will be using them for P1 Start and P2 Start on the Asteroids-inspired cab I've been working on...

LOL -Yeah definitely a costly option but they do look the part - Don't know If I would buy them for the player buttons but if building a Missile Command setup would definitely use them - Let us know how they feel compared to the originals ( If you can remember what the originals felt like ! )
« Last Edit: June 24, 2020, 12:08:58 pm by JDFan »

Arroyo

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1388
  • Last login:Today at 09:23:28 am
  • Budgets are boring
    • newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156267.0.html
Am I correct that you would need something like Mame hooker to get them to light up like they did on the original game?

PL1

  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7999
  • Last login:Today at 09:33:55 am
  • Designated spam hunter
Am I correct that you would need something like Mame hooker to get them to light up like they did on the original game?
Yes.  You need software like Mamehooker, LEDBlinky, etc. to convert the MAME outputs into the LED controller commands that make the LEDs start blinking when you coin up.   ;D


Scott

Arroyo

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1388
  • Last login:Today at 09:23:28 am
  • Budgets are boring
    • newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156267.0.html
Yes.  You need software like Mamehooker, LEDBlinky, etc. to convert the MAME outputs into the LED controller commands that make the LEDs start blinking when you coin up.   ;D

Scott

Just to make sure I understood that correctly, Mame hooker is required, you canít just you LED Blinky and standard MAME?

jennifer

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2684
  • Last login:Yesterday at 04:05:18 pm
I would have to think few people would remember the feel of a volcano cone, and just a happy girl that there is a replacement of any kind.

Mike A

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4825
  • Last login:Today at 01:59:28 pm
  • card carrying purist
Anyone who comes to my arcade room can rub the cones all they want. I have a few games that use them.

PL1

  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7999
  • Last login:Today at 09:33:55 am
  • Designated spam hunter
Yes.  You need software like Mamehooker, LEDBlinky, etc. to convert the MAME outputs into the LED controller commands that make the LEDs start blinking when you coin up.   ;D
Just to make sure I understood that correctly, Mame hooker is required, you canít just you LED Blinky and standard MAME?
Sorry my phrasing wasn't clear.

You can use Mamehooker or LEDBlinky or LEDWiz or RGBCommander or some other software app to convert the MAME outputs into LED controller commands.

From the LEDBlinky homepage:
Quote
Flash start buttons when credits are available - this is a MAME only game dependent feature.

- Remember to set MAME outputs to "windows" in mame.ini so your software can see them.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,151464.0.html

- Definitely avoid using MAME 0.170 thru 0.175.  MAME 0.188 or newer should be fine.
As of mame .170 the output system is broken and LEDBlinky can't detect any mame output events. A patch has been submitted and implemented as of .176 but the interface library (between LEDBlinky and mame) is still in the process of getting updated.
I used the long holiday weekend just now in the US to seriously upgrade the "network" output system.  It should now be usable in a similar way to the legacy Windows window message passing.  The changes are in Github top of tree now and will ship in 0.188.


Scott
EDIT: Clarified which versions of MAME to avoid/use.
« Last Edit: June 24, 2020, 02:34:40 pm by PL1 »

Arroyo

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1388
  • Last login:Today at 09:23:28 am
  • Budgets are boring
    • newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156267.0.html
Sorry my phrasing wasn't clear.


 Brilliant, thank you!

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6810
  • Last login:Today at 11:05:07 am
    • Bella's Arcade
You can use Mamehooker or LEDBlinky or LEDWiz or RGBCommander or some other software app to convert the MAME outputs into LED controller commands.

Oh boy... future me is kind of scared to find out how to get this to work...

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6810
  • Last login:Today at 11:05:07 am
    • Bella's Arcade
Buttons have shipped and shipping tacked on $8 more.  So it was $47.xx for 2 buttons LOL.

Cloakandmail

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9
  • Last login:October 02, 2020, 09:56:57 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
@Bobbyb13 and MartyKong - thank you for your advice guys much appreciated.

I posted this over a month a go and this gave me the opportunity to have a play on some scrap wood.

I decided to flush mount a large metal repair washer with its centre drilled out to the correct diameter to allow the red led through. This is more than adequate to create stability and I will Bondo over the top to make it look neat.

bobbyb13

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 170
  • Last login:Today at 05:38:27 am
  • I'm TRYing to build arcade controls!
@Bobbyb13 and MartyKong - thank you for your advice guys much appreciated.

I posted this over a month a go and this gave me the opportunity to have a play on some scrap wood.

I decided to flush mount a large metal repair washer with its centre drilled out to the correct diameter to allow the red led through. This is more than adequate to create stability and I will Bondo over the top to make it look neat.

If I thought of that it's what I would've done! heheh
Thanks for the suggestion for the next time I build a panel with those
 :notworthy:
Why'd you kick me?
Where's your brain?