Can multiple buttons share the same LED assignment?

[JRobATL]

Hi all,

I'm still in the planning stages, so I haven't started wiring yet.

Some of this may be apparent at that time, but I didn't want an oh crap moment when it's too late.

I'm using the ultimate IO from ultimarc. Does each button have to line up with its own specific LED assignment? Or can I mix&match (splice/daisychain)?

Here's why I ask. I was thinking of utilizing the IO to control LED strips for back and ground lighting on the cab, but based on available slots that might require borrowing the led output from an existing button.

...and that wouldn't be a problem since I'll most likely want all my coin buttons the same color, and/or my admin buttons the same color.

Please let me know if the question doesn't make sense, or if there are easier ways to avoid this problem. (Other than not having purchased RGB buttons for coins and admin in the first place) 

[Titchgamer]

I wouldn’t do that personally.

So each rgb output on the board will control 1 led cluster for a button.

This allows you to control each individual button lights colour and behaviour.
Ie solid, flashing, dimming etc.

That can be really cool for individual games so in my case for instance if I am playing a 6 button fighter I will light up 1 players red and 1 players blue.

Also I am not sure the pac would handle doing a whole strip of lights you would have to check with Andy or you may damage something.

Anyway if you want the strips as ambient lighting as long as you are not planing on changing the colours I would just hook them up to a individual PSU of their own.

[PL1]

If you don't have enough RGB control channels for all of your buttons and LED strips, you can hard wire some of the buttons that won't change color.

This example from Procyon's Transformers themed control panel shows how to hard-wire three buttons for purple and includes variable resistors so you can fine-tune the color.




Scott

[JRobATL]

If you don't have enough RGB control channels for all of your buttons and LED strips, you can hard wire some of the buttons that won't change color.

Scott

Oooooh, nice! Thanks, Scott. You always come through with the next level stuff.  I may end up doing that.

[JRobATL]

Scott, any specific types/brands/features to look for or to avoid in the variable resistors?

[PL1]

Scott, any specific types/brands/features to look for or to avoid in the variable resistors?

Not sure exactly what resistance value to use since that depends on the sensitivity and extent of dimming you need.
- I'd probably try a 1k or 500 ohm potentiometer, linear taper, and you may want soldering-friendly tabs with eyelets (black/silver knob pic) instead of pins (blue knob pic) connected to wires or a (solderable?) breadboard.

 

To use a pot as a variable resistor:  With the tabs toward you and the shaft up, connect to the center tab and right tab.
- As you turn the knob clockwise, the resistance will decrease and the LEDs will be brighter.

If space is tight, you can use trim-pots (connect to center tab and tab marked "CW") and a (solderable?) breadboard.



You won't need a potentiometer or variable resistor rated for long-life since this is a set-it-and-forget-it type of application.


Scott

[DJO_Maverick]

If you're willing to have some static color buttons, an even simpler alternative is just getting a single color led (or a colored button with a white led) in a color you can live with.  With that, you only use one channel (any given R, G, or B) and can daisy chain them to the ground.  That's how my system buttons are, so in total they only use less than the outputs of 2 RGB lights.

For the I-PAC UIO in particular, just divide the 96 numbered outputs by 3; it can have 32 full-RGB lights, but any one of those can instead be used as 3 single-channel lights (of any color).  You can also still use RGB Commander to alter the intensity of that channel to give a different shade of that color, if desired.  So using my setup, for example, I have 20 RGB buttons, 1 RGB trackball, and 4 single-color buttons, which still leaves 29 channels free (or 9 other RGB buttons and a couple of single-channel orphans).

I don't think there are any light strips you can use off the I-PAC though.  LED strip lights are all either 12 or 24v I believe, and the I-PAC LED controller only puts out 5v.  I believe the LED-Wiz only does 5v too.  My strips (for the marquee) are off a separate power supply.

[JRobATL]

Good stuff. A lot of options here.

Thanks, guys.

[JRobATL]

If you're willing to have some static color buttons, an even simpler alternative is just getting a single color led (or a colored button with a white led) in a color you can live with.  With that, you only use one channel (any given R, G, or B) and can daisy chain them to the ground.  That's how my system buttons are, so in total they only use less than the outputs of 2 RGB lights.

Going further on this aspect, if you wanted a static color for multiple buttons that was a combination of two LEDs (say, purple), could you do the same thing, but just daisychain the red wire and daisychain the blue wire?

[PL1]

Going further on this aspect, if you wanted a static color for multiple buttons that was a combination of two LEDs (say, purple), could you do the same thing, but just daisychain the red wire and daisychain the blue wire?

Yes.  If you like how it looks with the channels at full strength you could even hook them all to the same daisy-chain ground.

That's why there is a question mark next to "Variable Resistor" in the diagram.   

*** Depending on the RGB LED, you may still need a current limiting resistor. ***

Test max-rated current flow for each color channel using a multimeter inline that's set to "mA".
- Use a 500 ohm or 1k variable resistor.
- Start with it set to max resistance.
- Slowly reduce the resistance while watching the multimeter.
- When you reach the max-rated current flow for the LED, switch the power off.
- Check the variable resistor's resistance.
-- If the variable resistor reads something like 180 ohms or 220 ohms, you'll want a current limiting resistor of that value or slightly greater.
-- If the variable resistor reads close to zero ohms, you don't need a current limiting resistor.
- Different color LEDs drop different voltages and therefore need different value current limiting resistors.
i.e. A 20 mA red LED that drops 1.9v will need a larger value current limiting resistor than a 20 mA blue LED that drops 3v.  The red resistor has to drop 1.1v more than the blue resistor.




Scott

[JRobATL]

Beautiful. I will be trying this.