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Author Topic: K7000 screen goes black have to turn it off for 10 min.  (Read 254 times)

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Ericthegreat

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K7000 screen goes black have to turn it off for 10 min.
« on: April 23, 2020, 09:33:59 pm »
I was guessing it was hv shutdown, I replaced cap 57 and 56 as well as 51 (I think not the filter cap can't remember right this sec) but it still seems to be happening, now on b line when it goes off instead of 160/138 I'm getting erratic 130-160 (even seen a 190) on both sides, anyone have any ideas? The caps I replaced were actually blown I was shocked screen went on at all, now it went off when I switched my jpac signal back to PC gpu, hasn't gone back on but I can't check for a bit I'll update if it comes back on at all.

So moving it around a lot seems to have fixed it, what is shorting?

Also seems to be a bit "shaky" sometimes it just goes on and off.

Should I replace the voltage regulator? Can I just buy one like this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/STR3130-2-PAK-Voltage-Regulator-Genuine-SANKEN-Factory-NOS-K7000-Arcade-Monitor/171511770329?hash=item27eee5ecd9:g:BcsAAOSwy4hUSA0f

or I need

https://www.ebay.com/itm/STR3123-Voltage-Regulator-New-Original-SANKEN/380874802689?epid=1000565582&hash=item58ade84601:g:dksAAOSwD99au84c

so bumping the monitor against the chassis a bit seems to turn it back on, I don't get it...

So I noticed when checking b line that it would sometimes turn on so I bent the wire going into b line a bit, now the monitor seems to be getting a lot more power.

Well monitors been going all day, seems it was a short on b line + maybe c57 51(?) or 56 (which all 3 were blown).
« Last Edit: April 24, 2020, 08:45:28 pm by Ericthegreat »

grantspain

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Re: K7000 screen goes black have to turn it off for 10 min.
« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2020, 09:39:06 am »
these chassis suffer from corrosion on the actual solder pads, in particular around  the yoke connector and the b+ line

behrmr

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Re: K7000 screen goes black have to turn it off for 10 min.
« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2020, 09:58:00 am »
If you replace the regulator replace it with the same part # as the one in your chassis. E.g. the 123 or the 130.  And do yourself a favor and don't buy off an unknown ebay source as there are a lot of counterfeit parts out there.  Get it from arcade parts and repair dot com and while you're at it get a cap kit and cap the chassis.  Reflow all of the solder in the areas mentioned by grantspain. You may find that the solder pads are burned off in which case you can go through and do the repairs

You didn't say which K7000 you have (the P #) off the chassis.  I have a couple for sale if you're looking for a 19" I have a couple P447's capped and working and ready to go.  PM me.