Started a frankencab.... (I know I know....)

[uptown47]

Hi all,
I wanted to build a cabinet last year but, bought all the stuff and then other jobs took over and I ran out of year!

However, I just started the build yesterday. It's going to be a bit of a frankencab with a modular control panel (I realise that this isn't everyone's cup of tea).

I've only built the base so far. I'm no woodworker at all but I'm just taking my time and hoping to make something that is as good as possible (given the fact that I have feet for hands).

I'm going to take plenty of progress pics (something I do with any DIY project that I tackle as I like to look back on it). So I thought I could post a few here just in case it inspires someone else to take the plunge.

Here's the base finished. The next part is the crucial bit - cutting the sides - I've not finalised the design for these yet but I've put in a holiday from work on Thursday so, if my boss accepts it (and the weather is kind) I'll hopefully get them done then.

After that, the even more terrifying part of routing the sides for the T-moulding. I only used a router for the first time on Saturday so that'll be a case of plenty of practise on some scrap wood before I give it a go!

Will post back when I've got some progress.

[meyer980]

First build and going with a modular control panel, I'd say ambitious! But best of luck, build what you want and don't let anyone tell you otherwise.

You'll get a lot of opinions here probably (mine included, not a fan of franken panels) but that's okay. Getting started is often the hardest part.

[uptown47]

First build and going with a modular control panel, I'd say ambitious! But best of luck, build what you want and don't let anyone tell you otherwise.

You'll get a lot of opinions here probably (mine included, not a fan of franken panels) but that's okay. Getting started is often the hardest part.

Thanks meyer. I have actually built another cabinet a few years ago. It gets a lot of use (especially at the weekend with a few beers) but, over the years, I've found things that I would like to change. Hence taking the plunge on another cabinet.

You're spot on when you say that the hardest part is starting!

Thanks for the kind words. Much appreciated :-)

[ChurchOfSolipsism]

Don't be afraid of routing; just clamp everything down properly and keep the router steady. Now, working with acrylic glass, that's where the real tragedies happen...

[uptown47]

Acrylic glass? I'll stick to MDF thanks :-)

[ChurchOfSolipsism]

So what's your a plan B on how to cover your control panel with artwork?

[uptown47]

So what's your a plan B on how to cover your control panel with artwork?

Initially I'm just going to paint the machine matt black. Eventually I'm going to get artwork printed on to sticky-back vinyl and stick it on.

That's the plan anyway...

I'm not sure what I'll do with the control panel as it will be made up of 3 modular sections. It's going to be difficult to do something with artwork on this so I'm torn between coming up with a generic pattern that doesn't need to match or leaving it matt black. Will have to see how it all looks once put together and decide after that.

:-)

[ChurchOfSolipsism]

Sounds good. Looking forward to see your modular panel. Keep us updated.

[uptown47]

Well, I managed to get yesterday off work and it was really nice weather so I got quite a bit more done.

I'd never used the router in anger but it's a great tool to use and quite simple as long as you clamp properly (as @ChurchOfSolipsism rightly said earlier in the thread).

I built the cab up and had forgotten to slot it out for the T-molding so had to brace it more and then lie it down and do it. It went well though and saved me taking it apart so that was good.

All in all, I'm happy with how it's coming together. Still, a million things left to do but one step at a time....

:-)

[Mike A]

I'd never used the router in anger but it's a great tool to use and quite simple as long as you clamp properly (as @ChurchOfSolipsism rightly said earlier in the thread).

A router is the most dangerous shop tool you will ever own. Don't buy ---smurfy--- bits from Amazon. One of them will hurt you.

Did you reduce RPMs when you used the slot cutter?

[uptown47]

I'd never used the router in anger but it's a great tool to use and quite simple as long as you clamp properly (as @ChurchOfSolipsism rightly said earlier in the thread).

A router is the most dangerous shop tool you will ever own. Don't buy ---smurfy--- bits from Amazon. One of them will hurt you.

Did you reduce RPMs when you used the slot cutter?

I got a good 'bit'. The slot cutter is by Whiteside.

I didn't know about reducing the RPM with it though? Is that what I'm supposed to be doing? I just cut it at full speed.

Thanks

[Mike A]

Large diameter bits reach scary velocities.

https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/routing/speed

That is why you don't listen to goofs who tell you how simple and easy a router is.

Whiteside bits are good.

[bperkins01]

If your new to the router - as MikeA said - the larger the bit the slower the RPM should be..  high speed is not necessary for router bits..  just let it cut.

A more common and less known issue is:  pushing the bit all the way in..  do not do that.  If you bottom the bit out in the collet - it *may* not tighten properly and the bit can move (really bad when cutting slots) or spin out - 10K RPM free flying cutting tool.

So - put the bit all the way in - then pull it out a little so that its not bottomed out.. (~1/4" or so).  Then the collet can grip the bit w/o getting jammed up.
HTH

[uptown47]

Large diameter bits reach scary velocities.

https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/routing/speed

That is why you don't listen to goofs who tell you how simple and easy a router is.

Whiteside bits are good.

That's great info on that link - Thanks :-)

If your new to the router - as MikeA said - the larger the bit the slower the RPM should be..  high speed is not necessary for router bits..  just let it cut.

A more common and less known issue is:  pushing the bit all the way in..  do not do that.  If you bottom the bit out in the collet - it *may* not tighten properly and the bit can move (really bad when cutting slots) or spin out - 10K RPM free flying cutting tool.

So - put the bit all the way in - then pull it out a little so that its not bottomed out.. (~1/4" or so).  Then the collet can grip the bit w/o getting jammed up.
HTH

Thanks very much for the tips!! Quite scary that I did those slots without knowing all this stuff! I did have the slotting bit at full depth too!!!

Thanks again for sharing - it's very much appreciated. I'll DEFINITELY be taking heed!!! :-)

[Arroyo]

Finally decided to take the plunge eh?  Good for you.  Interesting design, I take it no coin door on this one?  Also curious about the rectangle cut out on one of the sides.  I presume that is for access to the modular controls?

[uptown47]

Finally decided to take the plunge eh?  Good for you.  Interesting design, I take it no coin door on this one?  Also curious about the rectangle cut out on one of the sides.  I presume that is for access to the modular controls?

Yes! Finally decided to take the plunge! I got all revved up watching your progress last year but then ran out of runway for starting due to the weather turning and other jobs that needed doing in the house.

You're correct about the cut-out too! Well spotted. I'm going to (hopefully) have a door that will open and a shelf in there to store the modular control panels. There's not going to be a coin door. At the base front will (again - hopefully!) be a fold down flap that will have an accelerator / brake on it for playing driving games.

I'm no woodworker and certainly not anywhere near your league but I'm aiming for function more than form. I understand that there are purists to whom this abomination should be chopped up and burned immediately! But, because I've only got space for one machine, I'm wanting a "jack of all trades" and there will have to be compromises on the aesthetic aspect I think.

However... just about to head back out and crack on with it again so we'll see how it turns out.

Thanks for posting as you (and a few other key individuals on this site) were the main part of my inspiration for this endeavour! :-)

[uptown47]

More progress over this weekend (lucky with the weather!).

I managed to cut the bezel for the "extended LCD" (I'm going to have a dynamic marquee all being well).

[uptown47]

I also got the panel that holds the speakers installed. This took a while to work out and build. I needed to be able to change the speakers (if they break in the future). I also put some automotive audio material around it to absorb vibration from the speakers. i think it gives it a decent finish (it also hides some gaps due to my crap woodworking skills!!!).

[uptown47]

Then it was the turn of the bezel for the monitor. I made this out of 6mm MDF board. I've got brass hooks behind it as I was going to put a tie-wrap between then to hold the monitor in place. I've placed the hooks so that they can be rotated and that pushes the monitor into the bezel to keep a nice tight fit.

[uptown47]

Very frustrating this weekend. Really slow progress as I had to remake the control panel top several times.

I was determined to allow the control panel to open for easy access to replace buttons etc. However, when I tried to install that using kitchen cabinet door hinges it fouled the monitor bezel. The only way to make it work was to bring the control panel forward which left a fair sized gap between the panel and the bezel. Not good.

Several other iterations later and lots of swearing I finally found some up and over hinges that I thought would work. I ordered them and they came yesterday and they are working great.

I decided to curve the front of the control panel for both aesthetic reasons and also because you can use the sticking out bit to lift it up.

I've also installed a pull out drawer that will house the keyboard and mouse and put a 'cover' above it made out of 6mm MDF to stop wires from the buttons etc fouling on the keyboard and inadvertently 'pressing' keys.

Here you can see the control panel... I used this handy site (https://handydad.tv/radius-calculator) to calculate the radius I needed and then used a pencil with some thin wire to draw the radius to then jigsaw it out and then some photos of the pull out drawer, with/without the cover and the build so far....

[Arroyo]

Hey that's looking good.  I'm impressed with the speed at which you are moving.  Definitely an unconventional design, but that's what makes this place interesting, seeing different ways of approaching the same problem.  Keep it up.

[uptown47]

Thanks Arroyo! Coming from you that is great praise. I appreciate the encouragement. Cheers. 

[Arroyo]

One comment I would make is looking at other options of securing your monitor, and to a lesser extent the speakers.  I would look for something more robust, by either taking advantage of any mounting point at the base of the monitor, or using the 4 VESA mounting points on the back of the monitor.  Somewhat similar comment for the speakers, although not quite as critical.

[uptown47]

Yep, agreed. Although I was thinking of the slightly less sophisticated method of a large tie-wrap (zip tie depending on locale) between the brass hooks!  (but - yes - you are completely correct that it needs something). Thanks 

[uptown47]

Some more progress pics and a massive thanks to Arroyo who pointed out that the ratio between the amount of 'speaker' and the amount of monitor was a little bit 'off'. I had thought that the monitor needed to be quite a steep angle in order to make the machine easy to play on but, as it happens, I'm far happier with the look and feel of the machine now I've followed Arroyo's advice.

So, in order to adjust the ratio of speaker to monitor I've lessened the angle of the bezel.

Here are the latest progress pics. It may seem slow going but there has been quite a bit of rework involved - remaking parts as I wasn't happy with them / they didn't fit correctly / etc...

Photo 1: The machine with the new monitor / bezel position

Photo 2: The control panel cut out. I've got 10 'permanent' buttons and the rest of the controls will be modular. I did consider grouping the permanent buttons rather than uniform spacing but decided to just stick with an evenly spaced design.

Photo 3: This was a terrifying part!!! The groove I had cut into the sides wasn't big enough for the 'hollow' T-molding (the T-molding arrived last week). I needed a 3/32" cutter so I had to order one and it arrived on Saturday so I had to get the machine out of the summerhouse and cut it again. I've never used a router before this project and was absolutely crapping myself that I'd mess it up and or something would snap as the machine was laid down etc... happily it went well!! But my hands were still trembling after I'd finished.

Photo 4: I'd bought neodymium bar magnets to hold the modular controls in place. I'm going to embed them in the control panel and then stick 'metal tape' on to each control module. The bar magnets are really strong. I was telling my missus how strong they were and she came over to have a look. She took one off and let it clatter into the rest of the pile and every one of them shattered!! :-( So... back to Amazon they go...

Photo 5: Using the router again to make pockets for the bar magnets. This was a piece that took ages to make. I originally made it out of plywood and didn't think to use my router so just used a hammer and wood chisel but it looked butchered and rubbish. I much prefer this finish.

Photo 6: The bar magnet holder mounted. I'm just going to glue the magnets into place after it's been painted.

Photo 7: Got most of the bottom pieces cut now - including the bit that will hold the new Sinden lightguns.

Photo 8: The panel that will fold out and hold pedal(s) - for driving games - for ducking in Time Crisis etc...

[Arroyo]

Yeah I think that ratio looks a lot better.  You can also play with your control panel depth if you want to keep the angle of the monitor slanted further back.  Question, what are all of those buttons for under the display?

[uptown47]

Hi Arroyo,

Yep, it does look a LOT better and it's a big thanks to you mate. Next time you find yourself in Scotland there's a pint waiting for you!

The buttons are the 'permanent' buttons. So 1P, 2P, Coins, Select, Pause, Exit, volume up/down etc. I know you can double up functionality (which is what I did on my first cab) but for this one I wanted an easy clear button for everything. Certainly not everyone's taste but I'm okay with it I think.

Cheers :-)

[uptown47]

Well, I've been rained off today so might as well post this weekends progress pics as nothing else will be getting done today....

I managed to get the top 'dynamic marquee' fitted. I tried it by just plugging the digibox output into it and was playing the Now 70s channel on it. Really good to see it working!

I finished the bottom part that will hold the lightguns. I've screwed at plastic storage box on to it which will hold the lightguns and stop them falling in to the machine and also hold the lightgun cable so that it doesn't end up right inside the machine getting tangled in the PC and other stuff in there. I've drilled another hole in that part which is going to house a flush twin USB connector just in case I decide to have PS1 controllers or something at a later date.

I also fitted a 'pull out' hanger behind the door which will have hooks on it - the hooks will hold cotton shoe bags which is where I'll store the other control modules when not in use.

I've started making the connection part that will allow the different control modules to plug in. This might end up getting re-made though as I'm not happy with it. But I'm going to hold off re-making it until I've finalised the wiring that I'll need.

I'm happy with how it's coming together so far though....

[uptown47]

There's lots of work happened but not a lot to really show for it as far as progress unfortunately.

Last year I built a 3-axis CNC machine in my attic (my mate bought me an Arduino board for Christmas and I decided to use it to try and make a CNC machine - looong story but probably not the best decision I've ever made in my life - a LOT more work than I anticipated but I got there in the end).

Unfortunately, my CNC machine suffered from a lot of electrical noise causing missed pulses (it's just open control via stepper motors as oppose to 'closed' control with proper feedback from the motors). At the end of last year my variable speed drive lost its magic smoke and so I've used the opportunity to re-site it and do a lot of work to get rid of the electrical noise (which I think I have now).

So... I had a go at using it to make one of the control panel "modules" (the grooves on the underside of the panel are to hold the magnets that will hold it in place on the control panel). This worked brilliantly. But it really exaggerated the 2mm deviation in the rectangle that I'd cut in the control panel (i.e. the button module fitted snug at one side of the control panel but was a bit 'loose' at the other side). This spurred me into making an entire control panel from the CNC (which was a bit nerve wracking as it was right at the edge of what the machine can cut in terms of size).

I'm really pleased with the result so I cut some more control panel modules and they fit really well in the panel.

I've also used wood filler on all the counter sunk holes in the machine and started the painting process. Going to hopefully rub it down ready for another coat this afternoon.

I'm also currently mapping out the controls / LEDs to plan the wiring. I've managed to get LEDBlinky talking to a PACLED64 which, in turn, talks to an Arduino and runs programmable LEDs. This is working fine as a 'test' but I'll need to write the software properly for this at a future date.....

(I've also got a brand new grand-daughter arriving on Wednesday and my daughter is coming to stay with us for a couple of weeks to give her some help with the newborn so not sure how much work will get done this month - we'll see).

:-)

[uptown47]

Well more progress made this weekend. The main bit of news is that the programmable LEDs (WS2811's) are mounted and working!! This was real 'heart in the mouth' stuff as I had to first fit the hollow T-molding (I've never fitted T-molding before).

The slot was really tight and needed sanding out first. I realise that the T-molding needs a knock or two to get it to seat correctly but was paranoid that knocking would damage the LEDs.

So, I measured / cut / fitted the T-molding without the LEDs first. Then I used a pull-through and pulled the LEDs into the T-molding (after soldering tails on to the 'cut to length' pieces). Then I tentatively fitted them and just kept my fingers crossed!

I'm pleased (and amazed) to say - it worked! I set a quick test program up in the Arduino to just light each bank of LEDs red then green then blue to test that they worked.

I've also mounted LEDs around the inside of the light gun holder (this is just a plaster tub that clips underneath the slots for the light guns). I'm hoping to be able to light that up if a light gun game is selected.

I fitted the "static" buttons along the top. I've gone with 1P, Coin/Shift, Vol up, Vol down, Menu, Play, Pause, Exit, 2P, 2P Coin. (A big thanks to SlammedNiss for the decals).

I've still got lots of wiring to do next and also a long list of small jobs but another good weekend should break the back of the project hopefully.

:-)

[luizw81]

Intrigued by the modular design.  What monitor did you use for your marquee?

[uptown47]

Intrigued by the modular design.  What monitor did you use for your marquee?

Yep, I'm hoping the modular design works well. Seems to be a trade off of aesthetics for functionality.

The marquee is a "stretched LCD". I got it from eBay for £100.

Cheers 👍

[Arroyo]

I think your design (while not traditional) is an interesting take.  I do like that you kept the proportions of the sides narrower like an original machine, and you kept the control panel within the sides, and not spilling over, (like on mine).  About those LED strips, I wonder if flipping them around might give you a more diffused look so that you don't see the individual lights as much?  Maybe something to try and see if you like it, although I am sure it would be a big pain to re-string them. 

[Mike A]

That LED T molding looks really bad. You should reconsider that. It makes a cab look like a redemption machine.

[uptown47]

I think your design (while not traditional) is an interesting take.  I do like that you kept the proportions of the sides narrower like an original machine, and you kept the control panel within the sides, and not spilling over, (like on mine).  About those LED strips, I wonder if flipping them around might give you a more diffused look so that you don't see the individual lights as much?  Maybe something to try and see if you like it, although I am sure it would be a big pain to re-string them.

Thanks Arroyo. I really like your control panel but I just don't have the room for something like that. This machine has got a designated 'spot' in my summerhouse (pub) and, if it's too wide, it'll mess with the dartboard oche :-)

I knew what to expect with the LED strips and did consider jet blasting some flour (or other fine powder) into the molding to see if that would diffuse the light. However, after seeing it, I'm really pleased with it.....

That LED T molding looks really bad. You should reconsider that. It makes a cab look like a redemption machine.

.... although I'm fully aware that it's not everyone's taste at all. My daughter (for instance) says that LEDs are 'tacky'. However, I love 'em. I've got them around the top/inside of the summerhouse and also various other places around the house.

But, as Mike points out, they are certainly not traditional. However, they can be 'dimmed' and the colours controlled as I'm doing it all through an Arduino and I can control each set of 3 LEDs separately. Even with them off I really like the contrast of the white T-molding with the black paint (although I will be hopefully designing some vinyl graphics to go over the sides and front/bottom part of it.

Thanks for the input though Arroyo (as always) and Mike. Much appreciated :-)

[Mike A]

I look forward to seeing you finish your build.

Anyone who can take advice and criticism like an adult is good with me.

And you have booze all over the place. Another plus.

[uptown47]

I look forward to seeing you finish your build.

Anyone who can take advice and criticism like an adult is good with me.

And you have booze all over the place. Another plus.

Mike, I look around these forums and I'm constantly amazed by the incredible workmanship and diligence I see. I would be an idiot to not take advice and criticism from people like yourself and Arroyo. (Plus a good few years in the military has adorned me with skin as thick as a gurkha's foreskin) :-)

Will continue to post pictures as and when the build develops.

And if you like booze - and you ever find yourself in Fife, Scotland then you're more than welcome to pop round for a few cold ones mate. :-)

[Mike A]

I might just find my way out there in the next year or two. Titch lives somewhere on one of those islands too.

I will make you regret that offer.

[uptown47]

I might just find my way out there in the next year or two. Titch lives somewhere on one of those islands too.

I will make you regret that offer.

Anytime mate

[uptown47]

More progress on the machine this weekend. I had started wiring it on the bench, but it soon became apparent that this was only going to take me so far. So I installed the wiring into the machine.

It's complicated matters because I'm wiring to an iPac Ultimate board which uses Dupont connectors. I have no way of crimping these so I'm having to be creative.

For instance... I have an RGB Ultralux button. It has a 4-pin dupont connector on the end of the LED. I don't want to cut the wires for these LEDs as I want to make it as straight forward as possible to replace one if they fail. So I'm using jumper leads to make the cable long enough to get to the iPac Board. This (unfortunately) means that each cable can be too long by as much as 20cm (the full length of one jumper lead).

For the button switches - I'm using 0.5mm cable. So I'm taking a Dupont jumper male-male cable. Plugging it into the iPac board and then inserting the other male pin into a 1.5mm bootlace ferrule and crimping that to the 0.5mm cable. I then wrap each connection in some insulation tape for strength. It seems to be electrically sound but certainly not the prettiest solution. However, it will be a lot less complicated if one of the buttons/LEDs fails as it should allow for a straight swap without any messing around (soldering etc).

I initially got the 'static' buttons wired up (the permanent buttons as oppose to the removable control module buttons). I decided to connect the machine temporarily to see if these worked (no point carrying on with everything else if my system had a fundamental flaw). However, I just decided to leave everything installed and continue the installation in situ. This serves two purposes - firstly, it means I'm not dragging everything out again, and secondly it means I can cut all the control module cables to length to reduce the rats nest of cabling that I will inevitably end up with.

I also got the magnets glued on to the control modules. I'm quite pleased with them as I've reversed the magnet polarity for the top and bottom of the control panel. So if you try and insert a control panel the wrong way up then just 'floats' as the magnets repel. However, you put it the right way and it grabs it and holds it.

Here's a few photos....

[bobbyb13]

Your fortitude on the wiring is admirable.
Looks like you will use up that whole iPac 

Funny how something so otherwise mundane becomes so satisfying, isn't it?

[uptown47]

Your fortitude on the wiring is admirable.
Looks like you will use up that whole iPac 

Funny how something so otherwise mundane becomes so satisfying, isn't it?

Haha, yep! I think there's only 8 pins of the iPac not being used. I used to wire up big electrical panels as a day job many moons ago though so don't mind the wiring so much. it just drives me a bit daft when I can't make it as neat as I'd like.

I was working on it again last night cutting back mains wires to length and remaking the plugs on them to try and make the whole thing a bit neater and more manageable.

I've had an idea of how I can re-jig the internals to make it more spaced out and neat though so might just get everything working first and then strip it all back and start again. Just depends whether I can be bothered or I'm too busy playing Frogger.... :-)

 

[Mike A]

You could buy a dupont crimper tool.

[Drnick]

You could buy a dupont crimper tool.

And then read this guide thoroughly

https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Good-Dupont-Pin-Crimp-EVERY-TIME/

[uptown47]

You could buy a dupont crimper tool.

Believe it or not - I did think of this 

However, I needed to strip and crimp the "dupont" wires anyway (even though - technically they're not Dupont connectors they are "Amp DuBox" connectors but they have become known as Dupont through Chinese suppliers using this name) as I need to convert the wires to a larger gauge in order to hold the 4.8mm crimp for the buttons so, rather than stripping and crimping multiple times, it also sped up development to use the 'premade' wires.

But you're right - I could just buy the tool and crimp my own. I've got some cable saddles on order though and I think, by the time I put the saddles in and tidy up / cable-tie the wires, I should be able to dress it off okay.

You could buy a dupont crimper tool.

And then read this guide thoroughly

https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Good-Dupont-Pin-Crimp-EVERY-TIME/

Thanks for the link. They are fiddly little ****ers aren't they...

[Mike A]

You have a ton of wired connections. Using those jumpers multiplies the number of connections. That multiplies the number of possible failure points.

I won't beat the point to death, but you really should just do it right the first time. It will prevent headaches later.

[uptown47]

You have a ton of wired connections. Using those jumpers multiplies the number of connections. That multiplies the number of possible failure points.

I won't beat the point to death, but you really should just do it right the first time. It will prevent headaches later.

Yep, I completely agree with you - there is an explanation (read: excuse!). I was originally trying to wire everything on the bench and then fit the loom into the machine. The machine is in the summerhouse and the light isn't brilliant in there so wiring in the house (i.e. on the bench) is easier due to better light. However, because this machine has been planned (read: made up) as it's gone along - it transpired that I couldn't do that as I couldn't retro-fit the bulkhead that the control modules plug in to. So.... I have ended up doing 'some' on the bench and the rest in situ.

If I'd known this at the start then I would have just bought the tool and wired the whole lot in situ as it would have been better. However, at the moment all the connections I've done so far are working and, if it did end up that I started getting failures, it would be easy enough to just re-wire everything bespoke.

[Mike A]

I get it. Backtracking sucks.

Just remember I told you so when 1989 Kathy Ireland invents time travel, knocks on your door, wants to play Zaxxon, and she forgot her clothes. And then your CP doesn't work.

[uptown47]

I get it. Backtracking sucks.

Just remember I told you so when 1989 Kathy Ireland invents time travel, knocks on your door, wants to play Zaxxon, and she forgot her clothes. And then your CP doesn't work.

When Kathy Ireland (from '89) knocks on my door and asks to play Zaxxon - *then* I'll rewire it. 

[Titchgamer]

Holy hell that loom give me nausea!

You are a braver man than me and I work with cables for a living lol

Like Mike I would suggest a different approach to this but I think you are past the point of no return now lol

[bperkins01]

You have a ton of wired connections. Using those jumpers multiplies the number of connections. That multiplies the number of possible failure points.

I won't beat the point to death, but you really should just do it right the first time. It will prevent headaches later.

Yep, I completely agree with you - there is an explanation (read: excuse!). I was originally trying to wire everything on the bench and then fit the loom into the machine. The machine is in the summerhouse and the light isn't brilliant in there so wiring in the house (i.e. on the bench) is easier due to better light. However, because this machine has been planned (read: made up) as it's gone along - it transpired that I couldn't do that as I couldn't retro-fit the bulkhead that the control modules plug in to. So.... I have ended up doing 'some' on the bench and the rest in situ.

If I'd known this at the start then I would have just bought the tool and wired the whole lot in situ as it would have been better. However, at the moment all the connections I've done so far are working and, if it did end up that I started getting failures, it would be easy enough to just re-wire everything bespoke.

ok - a crimp tool and a flashlight.. 
At least you know 

[javeryh]

I get it. Backtracking sucks.

Just remember I told you so when 1989 Kathy Ireland invents time travel, knocks on your door, wants to play Zaxxon, and she forgot her clothes. And then your CP doesn't work.

When Kathy Ireland (from '89) knocks on my door and asks to play Zaxxon - *then* I'll rewire it. 

If Kathy Ireland from 2020 knocked on my door I'd get that Zaxxon up and running ASAP.

[Gilrock]

When I saw the first photo in reply #39 yesterday I couldn't even think of anything that wouldn't hurt feelings.  I'm going to dub it the "frankenharness".

[uptown47]

When I saw the first photo in reply #39 yesterday I couldn't even think of anything that wouldn't hurt feelings.  I'm going to dub it the "frankenharness".

  yep, it does look really messy. I've got it all written down though so I know exactly where everything goes.

[bobbyb13]

I get it. Backtracking sucks.

Just remember I told you so when 1989 Kathy Ireland invents time travel, knocks on your door, wants to play Zaxxon, and she forgot her clothes. And then your CP doesn't work.

Kelly Le Brock came to mind as I read this...

[uptown47]

I get it. Backtracking sucks.

Just remember I told you so when 1989 Kathy Ireland invents time travel, knocks on your door, wants to play Zaxxon, and she forgot her clothes. And then your CP doesn't work.

Kelly Le Brock came to mind as I read this...

Ooofff!!! Of "Weird Science" fame. Back in the day I would have given my right-arm to pacman her q-bert....

[uptown47]

Well, more work done over the weekend. Managed to get my first game of Frogger out of the cabinet on Sunday. It was brilliant to finally play something on it!!!

Still got a ton of work to do tidying the cabling up etc. Also started going through Mavericks Arcades brilliant tutorial videos on LEDBlinky (if you have LEDBlinky but don't really understand it fully then I can highly recommend them).

Also I've got to make the Player 2 button and joystick modules.

The next step is to get the side LEDs to start doing something pertinent and then start setting all the software up. At the moment I've just got MAME working but I'm using BigBox as my front end (brilliant front end by the way!) and so I want to set up other systems - especially Spectrum as that was the computer I grew up with.

[80sarcadegames]

A+ build!!!     
So clean and well designed!! 

Can you share the link to the "stretch LCD dynamic marquee" that you purchased for this?

[uptown47]

A+ build!!!     
So clean and well designed!! 

Can you share the link to the "stretch LCD dynamic marquee" that you purchased for this?

Wow!! That's a surprise!! That's the first person who actually likes it on here I think!! Thank you :-)

I bought the stretched LCD from eBay (UK). It was from a guy who was a shopfitter and he'd had skip them as part of a job - he didn't want to throw them away when they were working so he sold them on eBay.

They do come up on eBay from time to time or the other place that they can be sourced is Alibaba I believe.

Thanks for your kind words but, if you really want to see a nice build, head along to some of the other posts in the Project section - The Grid is an amazing one and there are plenty of other good ones out there. :-)

[javeryh]

Wow!! That's a surprise!! That's the first person who actually likes it on here I think!! Thank you :-)

I like your cabinet a lot.  Your modular control panel idea is pretty neat and a good way to maximize the amount of games you can play.  You also did what at least 50% of us can't do and that is build something in a reasonable period of time.

Regarding the dynamic marquee - was this just plug and play with BigBox?  I am using a regular old 16:9 monitor for my dynamic marquee with the top and bottom hidden.  I cannot figure out how to resize the monitor window in BigBox though.  It just puts the art dead center on the second screen when you enable the marquee screen feature in the options.

 

[uptown47]

No the marquee wasn't just plug n play there was a bit of messing around.

You have obviously sussed out to go into the Options in BigBox and enable the second monitor.

To do the resizing you need to mess around with the Themes/*yourTheme*/Views/GameMarqueeView.xml

I had to add --

Code: [Select]

<!-- GRID DEFINITIONS -->
           
           
    <Grid Height="768" Width="1366">
        <Grid.ColumnDefinitions>                       
<ColumnDefinition Width="1*" />
    </Grid.ColumnDefinitions>
        <Grid.RowDefinitions>
            <RowDefinition Height="*" />
            <RowDefinition Height="*" />
            <RowDefinition Height="*" />
        </Grid.RowDefinitions>
               
               
        <!-- GAME MARQUEE -->
               
               
        <Image Source="{Binding Path=SelectedGame.MarqueeImagePath}" Stretch="fill" HorizontalAlignment="Center" VerticalAlignment="Top" RenderOptions.BitmapScalingMode="HighQuality" />
            <TextBlock x:Name="GameMarquee" Visibility="Visible">
                <TextBlock.Text>
                    <MultiBinding StringFormat="{}pack://siteoforigin:,,,/Arcade - Marquee/_Default.png">
                    <Binding Path="SelectedGame.Platform"/>
                    </MultiBinding>
                </TextBlock.Text>
            </TextBlock>
        <Image x:Name="MainMarquee" Grid.RowSpan="3" Grid.Row="0" Grid.ColumnSpan="8" Grid.Column="0" Source="{Binding Text, ElementName=GameMarquee, FallbackValue='pack://siteoforigin:,,,/Arcade - Marquee/_Default.png'}" Opacity="100" Stretch="fill" Panel.ZIndex="1" RenderOptions.BitmapScalingMode="HighQuality" />
    </Grid>
There's a thread that I got that info from on the Launchbox forums and the settings will be slightly different for each user I'm sure.
https://forums.launchbox-app.com/topic/44040-how-can-i-properly-display-marquee-images-on-custom-cut-lcd-screen/

Just read through that thread and have a mess around with your GameMarqueeView.xml (and then, when you sussed it, you can change your PlatformMarqueeView.xaml as well).

**** MAKE A BACK UP OF EVERY FILE YOU MESS AROUND WITH!!!!! **** (obviously )

If I can help any further just let me know

[Arroyo]

I think your cab is fun.  You made a unique design, that incorporates some interesting functionality (gun holders).  Like Javery said half the people here never complete a cab or get anywhere near as far as you did (you beat me  ). 

How are you liking the modular controls?  Anything you would change about the design?  Do you find the joystick button distance comfortable?   

[uptown47]

I think your cab is fun.  You made a unique design, that incorporates some interesting functionality (gun holders).  Like Javery said half the people here never complete a cab or get anywhere near as far as you did (you beat me  ). 

How are you liking the modular controls?  Anything you would change about the design?  Do you find the joystick button distance comfortable?   

I was a little worried about the joystick / button distance actually but I don't notice it. I am really liking the modular design. I'm so glad that I stuck to doing it modular now that I have it set up. I've just received some 'flight stick' type joysticks so I'm going to make modules for those (when I've finished player 2 joystick/buttons). This will allow me to re-live my mis-spent youth playing Assault!

As for the cabinet as a whole, I couldn't be happier. I really love it. I'm just writing some software at the moment to help me sort media files etc for my front end in order to make up some really 'neat' platforms (i.e. no duplicated images, everything with the same name, each game with all associated media including the marquee etc).

I've managed to put a jukebox on it too and got the side LEDs working along.

All in all I'm really chuffed with it

(Can't wait for the guns to arrive as well!)

Thanks for your kind words Arroyo. I might have beaten you to the punch with the cabinet build but, when it comes to quality, there's just no comparison. Your cabinet is hands-down the best I've seen. Really looking forward to keeping tabs on the project and seeing the finished article.

[Arroyo]

I might have beaten you to the punch with the cabinet build but, when it comes to quality, there's just no comparison. Your cabinet is hands-down the best I've seen. Really looking forward to keeping tabs on the project and seeing the finished article.

Appreciate the thought, there are however many very well made builds out there as far as quality goes.  A few that come to mind:

Misson Control

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,13118.0.html

Rotoron

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,158083.msg1661521.html#msg1661521

Blip:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137295.0.html

Black Ops:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,101426.0.html

I got all of my inspiration from looking to folks like these and many others who have done incredible work over the years.

Glad to hear you are enjoying the cab, that's what it's all about.

[uptown47]

Yep, those are some beautiful looking cabs!!

[javeryh]

No the marquee wasn't just plug n play there was a bit of messing around.

You have obviously sussed out to go into the Options in BigBox and enable the second monitor.

To do the resizing you need to mess around with the Themes/*yourTheme*/Views/GameMarqueeView.xml

I had to add --

Code: [Select]

<!-- GRID DEFINITIONS -->
           
           
    <Grid Height="768" Width="1366">
        <Grid.ColumnDefinitions>                       
<ColumnDefinition Width="1*" />
    </Grid.ColumnDefinitions>
        <Grid.RowDefinitions>
            <RowDefinition Height="*" />
            <RowDefinition Height="*" />
            <RowDefinition Height="*" />
        </Grid.RowDefinitions>
               
               
        <!-- GAME MARQUEE -->
               
               
        <Image Source="{Binding Path=SelectedGame.MarqueeImagePath}" Stretch="fill" HorizontalAlignment="Center" VerticalAlignment="Top" RenderOptions.BitmapScalingMode="HighQuality" />
            <TextBlock x:Name="GameMarquee" Visibility="Visible">
                <TextBlock.Text>
                    <MultiBinding StringFormat="{}pack://siteoforigin:,,,/Arcade - Marquee/_Default.png">
                    <Binding Path="SelectedGame.Platform"/>
                    </MultiBinding>
                </TextBlock.Text>
            </TextBlock>
        <Image x:Name="MainMarquee" Grid.RowSpan="3" Grid.Row="0" Grid.ColumnSpan="8" Grid.Column="0" Source="{Binding Text, ElementName=GameMarquee, FallbackValue='pack://siteoforigin:,,,/Arcade - Marquee/_Default.png'}" Opacity="100" Stretch="fill" Panel.ZIndex="1" RenderOptions.BitmapScalingMode="HighQuality" />
    </Grid>
There's a thread that I got that info from on the Launchbox forums and the settings will be slightly different for each user I'm sure.
https://forums.launchbox-app.com/topic/44040-how-can-i-properly-display-marquee-images-on-custom-cut-lcd-screen/

Just read through that thread and have a mess around with your GameMarqueeView.xml (and then, when you sussed it, you can change your PlatformMarqueeView.xaml as well).

**** MAKE A BACK UP OF EVERY FILE YOU MESS AROUND WITH!!!!! **** (obviously )

If I can help any further just let me know

Thanks!  I will read through this and see if I can work it out but I'm not holding my breath.  I know what the xml file is but modifying it is way out of my league...

[uptown47]

Well if I can be any help mate just give me a shout and I'll do what I can.

[javeryh]

Well if I can be any help mate just give me a shout and I'll do what I can.

Thanks.  Are the GameMarqueeView.xml and PlatformMarqueeView.xaml universal files?  Meaning, if I change them and get it sorted for one BigBox theme, will it apply to all themes?  Right now I just have something called "AllNightLong" as my theme and it's OK but won't be the final one I use.

EDIT: I can see now that there is a GameMarqueeView.xml file in each Theme folder under "View" and if that file isn't present it will default to the "Default" theme.  I don't want to derail your thread any further.

[uptown47]

Well if I can be any help mate just give me a shout and I'll do what I can.

Thanks.  Are the GameMarqueeView.xml and PlatformMarqueeView.xaml universal files?  Meaning, if I change them and get it sorted for one BigBox theme, will it apply to all themes?  Right now I just have something called "AllNightLong" as my theme and it's OK but won't be the final one I use.

EDIT: I can see now that there is a GameMarqueeView.xml file in each Theme folder under "View" and if that file isn't present it will default to the "Default" theme.  I don't want to derail your thread any further.

Yep, as you've already sussed out - the files are in each Theme.

If you are having problems with it you could create a thread over at the Launchbox forum and we could all chip in there to try and help you out. I'm sure with some back-and-forth, hair pulling and swearing we'd get there in the end

[uptown47]

Been meaning to post back for ages now just to show some of the extra bits and bobs I've added to the cabinet.

I'm not sure how many people have heard of DOF (Direct Output Framework) - it's some software that interfaces between Future Pinball (and Visual Pinball / Pinball FX3 as well) to link the game on the screen with your LED lights (and/or other physical real-world components). (https://directoutput.github.io/DirectOutput/)

After really enjoying playing some Future Pinball on the new cab I added 7 Siemens contactors to the inside of it and set up the DOF to fire my side LEDs and contactors according to what's happening on the play field.

It's difficult to see from the video but hopefully you get the idea....


It was relatively simple to get set up but provides for a great pinball experience. Especially the contactors which thump away against the cabinet as the ball fires off the bumpers etc

I also set up a jukebox on the cabinet. It's using "retrobox" (http://arcademy.fr/retro-jukebox.html) which is launched from LaunchBox/Big Box which I use as my front end.


Using the brilliant LEDBlinky to colour the buttons and also using the arduino to do fancy things with the programmable LEDs on the side of the cab.

I know it's not everyone's taste as some people find it a bit "tacky" but (personally) I love it. Especially the DOF on the pinball. Well worth exploring.

:-)

[Zeosstud]

Cabinet looks like a lot of fun.. Hope you are enjoying it..

Zeosstud

[uptown47]

Cabinet looks like a lot of fun.. Hope you are enjoying it..

Zeosstud

Yep, absolutely love it thanks Zeostud.

Really liking the pinball as well (surprisingly). Wasn't sure how well known DOF was around the cab makers on here but it really adds an extra dimension to the play.

:-)