Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up --- Bug Reports --- Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

  

Author Topic: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy  (Read 12643 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1274
  • Last login:Today at 02:25:32 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #320 on: August 01, 2020, 03:32:21 pm »
That's what I'm trying to do... how do you cut the hole accurately?

I've bypassed the whole hole problem. Look closer and you'll see that I have separated the bracket into two pieces, top and bottom. I'll find a photo in a minute and show you how I did them separately...
Check out my completed projects!


Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1274
  • Last login:Today at 02:25:32 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #321 on: August 01, 2020, 03:40:19 pm »

So two pieces like this and you can just slide them up or down to suit
Check out my completed projects!


Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1274
  • Last login:Today at 02:25:32 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #322 on: August 01, 2020, 03:42:48 pm »

Use T-nuts like this to secure the corner pegs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Check out my completed projects!


Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1274
  • Last login:Today at 02:25:32 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #323 on: August 01, 2020, 03:45:37 pm »

Goes in like this with appropriate bolt. You can push the t-nut into the hole and tighten the bolt to pull it in.

You'll need to use some washers as well (as shown) to make sure it grabs the CRT securely.
« Last Edit: August 01, 2020, 03:47:25 pm by Zebidee »
Check out my completed projects!


Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1274
  • Last login:Today at 02:25:32 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #324 on: August 01, 2020, 03:49:32 pm »

Context - Aussie lowboy I have been working on, but by bit, for a while now
Check out my completed projects!


Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1274
  • Last login:Today at 02:25:32 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #325 on: August 01, 2020, 03:55:06 pm »
aww hell there's a Corona box in the background lol... better go into quarantine...
Check out my completed projects!


Jimbo

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 835
  • Last login:Yesterday at 06:10:44 pm
  • I have no idea what I'm doing.
    • Wood Finishes Direct
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #326 on: August 01, 2020, 04:13:05 pm »
So... how the heck do I cut the opening in the MDF dead center???

I've just done one with 18mm ply.  Just a case of measuring and cutting.  I measured the frame of the monitor to get the hole dimensions, drilled a large hole in each corner for my jigsaw blade to pop through, then used the jigsaw to cut the hole out.  If you measure well enough you can get it right first time.  Err on the side of the hole being too tight because you can always cut it bigger with the jigsaw and you don't want it too loose.

Well done on disassembling the monitor!  :applaud:  You've definitely done the hard part.  Hope you took loads of photos to remind yourself how it connects back together! :)

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 6641
  • Last login:Today at 04:57:52 pm
    • Bella's Arcade
javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #327 on: August 01, 2020, 05:09:18 pm »
I've bypassed the whole hole problem. Look closer and you'll see that I have separated the bracket into two pieces, top and bottom. I'll find a photo in a minute and show you how I did them separately...

Genius.  This seems so simple that it should be stickied somewhere.

Cardboard template gets the shape right. Cut tabs all the way around it and cut them off to fit, then refine it with masking tape...that neck board will push on easier then it came off, just make sure the pins are lined up with the holes.

Oh man...  I just started cutting with the jigsaw and removing little pieces a mm at a time wherever I thought I needed more room.  Cardboard template would have saved me loads of time.  Told you I was an idiot!

I got the tube attached to the panel.  It's centered enough I think.  Less than 1/16" off in some spots.  The hole I cut is a total hack job.  I left it long because now I need to attach another panel 90 degrees from this one for the circuit board to attach to.  Once I figure out where that goes, I can remove the excess length.





Iím using 1-1/4Ē bolts with washers on both sides to secure everything.  I think Iím going to do the cardboard template for when I cut the black matte board for around the monitor under the glass.
« Last Edit: August 01, 2020, 05:11:01 pm by javeryh »

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1274
  • Last login:Today at 02:25:32 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #328 on: August 01, 2020, 05:39:33 pm »
@javeryh That looks brilliant!

Your method of hacking it out until it fit is exactly what I used to do. I now use top/bottom brackets, but I still don't need to use a cardboard template.

Referencing my photos above with 2 brackets for top/bottom - you make them as wide (longest side) as the inside width of your cab; you make the left & right sides about 10cm/4 inches; you bring it in at least 2cm to account for the support wood you use underneath; then cut back at approx 45 degrees *as appropriate for your CRT pegs*. The long/narrow parts at top/bottom should be at least 5cm or 2 inches. 

This is really the easiest way to do it.

The only tricky measurement to take is the distance between your CRT pegs (measure centre-to-centre). Once you have that, position/centre your ruler and mark the 45 degree cut so that it leaves about 6mm (~1/4 inch) spare after you cut your hole for the T-nut.

You'll need to secure that degaussing coil back around the back/outside of the CRT, otherwise it won't work properly. Suggest that you use cable ties as necessary.


Check out my completed projects!


javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 6641
  • Last login:Today at 04:57:52 pm
    • Bella's Arcade
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #329 on: August 01, 2020, 05:42:44 pm »
@javeryh That looks brilliant!

Your method of hacking it out until it fit is exactly what I used to do. I now use top/bottom brackets, but I still don't need to use a cardboard template.

Referencing my photos above with 2 brackets for top/bottom - you make them as wide (longest side) as the inside width of your cab; you make the left & right sides about 10cm/4 inches; you bring it in at least 2cm to account for the support wood you use underneath; then cut back at approx 45 degrees *as appropriate for your CRT pegs*. The long/narrow parts at top/bottom should be at least 5cm or 2 inches. 

This is really the easiest way to do it.

The only tricky measurement to take is the distance between your CRT pegs (measure centre-to-centre). Once you have that, position/centre your ruler and mark the 45 degree cut so that it leaves about 6mm (~1/4 inch) spare after you cut your hole for the T-nut.

You'll need to secure that degaussing coil back around the back/outside of the CRT, otherwise it won't work properly. Suggest that you use cable ties as necessary.

Thanks.  You method is so much better though!  So that thick black wire actually needs to be positioned properly?  Do I need to keep anything in mind or do I just need it to somewhat follow the outside of the tube?  So many things I don't know.

And yup I did it upside down....  thank jeebus I flipped it and everything lined up.  Now I'm trying to mount the circuit board... not easy.  The metal housing does not come off so I have to position it pretty much in the same spot it was before disassembly.  I'm cutting the shelf now which I will install at a 90 degree angle using some 3/4" blocking to reinforce the joint.  I'll probably also have to add diagonal stretchers so that there is additional support for this thing.

I think I'm having fun?  This is going to take the rest of the evening and most of tomorrow to set up.  But then I will be in the home stretch... assuming the monitor still works when I connect everything...

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1274
  • Last login:Today at 02:25:32 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #330 on: August 01, 2020, 06:34:02 pm »
Thanks.  You method is so much better though!  So that thick black wire actually needs to be positioned properly?  Do I need to keep anything in mind or do I just need it to somewhat follow the outside of the tube?  So many things I don't know.

The degaussing coil needs to be correctly placed around the perimeter of the CRT - as close as possible to how it originally was.

And yup I did it upside down....  thank jeebus I flipped it and everything lined up.

The way you did it in that pic looks right to me! Ultimately, when installed, you want the CRT to sit on top of the brackets, so it sits "down" on them and gravity helps keep it in place. Use "blocking" pieces cut from scrap wood (installed at the angle you want your monitor at) to keep the brackets in right place. Have another close look at the pic I showed before. You can see that I haven't even bothered to screw the CRT down! WTF!!!! The CRT is literally just sitting there, on the bolts, with nothing but gravity to keep it in. (the bolts in backwards, with no nut on top.)

I secured the CRT better after taking that photo (second photo, turned bolts around, added washers). In those photos, you can also see the blocking pieces for the front protective glass (at same angle as monitor blocking pieces). You'll need to add them AFTER you put the monitor in (otherwise you can't get the CRT past them).

Now I'm trying to mount the circuit board... not easy.  The metal housing does not come off so I have to position it pretty much in the same spot it was before disassembly.  I'm cutting the shelf now which I will install at a 90 degree angle using some 3/4" blocking to reinforce the joint.  I'll probably also have to add diagonal stretchers so that there is additional support for this thing.

Simply do the best you can to remove/reposition pieces - will be easier if you can screw chassis to side, but just do what you have to.
« Last Edit: August 01, 2020, 07:09:04 pm by Zebidee »
Check out my completed projects!


jennifer

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2452
  • Last login:Yesterday at 07:07:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #331 on: August 01, 2020, 07:15:59 pm »
Omg thats going to be nice, Getting a little jelious over here...You should just finish that out with a nice piece of safety glass with the marqee enamel painted on the backside,... Plexy just looks cheap and unimaginative.

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 6641
  • Last login:Today at 04:57:52 pm
    • Bella's Arcade
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #332 on: August 01, 2020, 07:29:28 pm »
The degaussing coil needs to be correctly placed around the perimeter of the CRT - as close as possible to how it originally was.

Uh oh... not sure that's possible.  It would need to go through the MDF panel - it was nestled in the very top of the original monitor casing towards the front.  I can place it around the edge of the monitor behind the MDF but nowhere else really.  What is the effect if it isn't exactly in the right place?

The way you did it in that pic looks right to me! Ultimately, when installed, you want the CRT to sit on top of the brackets, so it sits "down" on them and gravity helps keep it in place. Use "blocking" pieces cut from scrap wood (installed at the angle you want your monitor at) to keep the brackets in right place. Have another close look at the pic I showed before. You can see that I haven't even bothered to screw the CRT down! WTF!!!! The CRT is literally just sitting there, on the bolts, with nothing but gravity to keep it in. (the bolts in backwards, with no nut on top.)

I secured the CRT better after taking that photo (second photo, turned bolts around, added washers). In those photos, you can also see the blocking pieces for the front protective glass (at same angle as monitor blocking pieces). You'll need to add them AFTER you put the monitor in (otherwise you can't get the CRT past them).

I have the MDF behind the brackets... I meant that if I was to install it the screen would have been upsidedown.  I left the bottom of the panel long because I didn't know how much I'd need in order to secure the circuit board.

Simply do the best you can to remove/reposition pieces - will be easier if you can screw chassis to side, but just do what you have to.

None of the wires are even close to long enough.  It literally has to go in the exact position it was in before I took it apart so right underneath the screen.  I'm going to try and do this to it:



I have to do the exact same thing based on the guts.

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1274
  • Last login:Today at 02:25:32 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #333 on: August 01, 2020, 08:32:06 pm »
Omg thats going to be nice, Getting a little jelious over here...You should just finish that out with a nice piece of safety glass with the marqee enamel painted on the backside,... Plexy just looks cheap and unimaginative.

Aww shucks jenn. Hoping to work on it a bit more soon.

I made sure to leave a comfy 1-2mm wiggle room for a cardboard/whatever bezel to slip underneath 6mm safety glass! No way I'd use plexi there :D

Quote from: javeryh
Uh oh... not sure that's possible.  It would need to go through the MDF panel - it was nestled in the very top of the original monitor casing towards the front.  I can place it around the edge of the monitor behind the MDF but nowhere else really.  What is the effect if it isn't exactly in the right place?

Coil position doesn't have to be "exact", but yes close as possible. You may need to trim your wooden CRT bracket out a little so it can fit (rasp, jigsaw!).

I think something like that latest photo of yours, with a whole wooden frame, should do the trick to support the chassis (but sit CRT on top of wood if possible - I'll stop mentioning this now and grab a nap instead!).

Great project javeryh, enjoying your progress  8)
Check out my completed projects!


javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 6641
  • Last login:Today at 04:57:52 pm
    • Bella's Arcade
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #334 on: August 02, 2020, 08:44:25 am »
Coil position doesn't have to be "exact", but yes close as possible. You may need to trim your wooden CRT bracket out a little so it can fit (rasp, jigsaw!).

I think something like that latest photo of yours, with a whole wooden frame, should do the trick to support the chassis (but sit CRT on top of wood if possible - I'll stop mentioning this now and grab a nap instead!).

Great project javeryh, enjoying your progress  8)

I totally understand why the CRT should sit on top of the wood frame... but putting it behind and letting all the weight fall to the bolts and washers would let me get that thick degaussing wire a lot closer to its original position.

Iím really concerned now that Iíll get it all set up and turn on the monitor and the picture will be a wavy mess.  The wire wasnít precisely placed to begin with - it didnít hug the tube or anything- so hopefully close is good enough.  It was also held in place by notches in the plastic bezel... which is obviously not available anymore.

Arroyo

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1344
  • Last login:Today at 04:22:43 pm
  • Budgets are boring
    • newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156267.0.html
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #335 on: August 02, 2020, 08:49:52 am »
It wonít be a wavy mess.  The degaussing coil is used to demagnetize the shadow mask (swiss cheese grater looking metal sheet that has holes in it to control where the beams hit the phosphor).  It helps to prevent discoloration that can show up, which typically happens in the corners. 

I wouldnít worry about it too much.  If after getting it setup and turned on its exhibiting those issues, you could route out some of the material around the back side of the wood close to the tube to allow it to be placed closer.

Good work buddy, keep it up!

bperkins01

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 735
  • Last login:Today at 04:46:53 pm
  • Plenty of skills.. gaining experience..
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #336 on: August 02, 2020, 08:52:53 am »
The degaussing coil only activates when the monitor is powered on for a few seconds..  All it does is makes a big magnetic field to "clean up" some stray magnetism..  It then shuts off.  Put it close to where it was and call it a day..  Its not a precision device..  its a loop of wire..
My Arcade Cabinet Build and other projects here:
Centipede, Joust, Joust Cocktail, Asteroids, Galaga, Ms. Pacman Cabaret, Defender, Space Invaders Cocktail
https://bperkins.wordpress.com/

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 6641
  • Last login:Today at 04:57:52 pm
    • Bella's Arcade
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #337 on: August 02, 2020, 09:31:29 am »
It wonít be a wavy mess.  The degaussing coil is used to demagnetize the shadow mask (swiss cheese grater looking metal sheet that has holes in it to control where the beams hit the phosphor).  It helps to prevent discoloration that can show up, which typically happens in the corners. 

I wouldnít worry about it too much.  If after getting it setup and turned on its exhibiting those issues, you could route out some of the material around the back side of the wood close to the tube to allow it to be placed closer.

Good work buddy, keep it up!

Thanks Arroyo - this is reassuring.  I'm glad I'm doing this even if it ends up not working because I really want to learn about it.  Not knowing how these things work is making it difficult to make decisions. 

Do you think the extra 1/2" is worth it? 

- I could mount the monitor behind the MDF panel putting all of the weight on the corner bolts which will give me an extra 1/2" for the degaussing wire to be closer to its original position; or
- I could keep it as is and mount the monitor in front of the MDF panel allowing the corner brackets attached to the tube to bear most of the weight.  I'd lose the 1/2" of space in this scenario but the mount would be sturdier.

The degaussing coil only activates when the monitor is powered on for a few seconds..  All it does is makes a big magnetic field to "clean up" some stray magnetism..  It then shuts off.  Put it close to where it was and call it a day..  Its not a precision device..  its a loop of wire..

Man I hope this is all there is to it and close is more than good enough.  I will find out this afternoon.  I am headed to the basement to keep working on it now.  I need to assemble the shelf for the chassis, install 2 stretchers at a 45 degree angle for additional support and then trim the overhang of the face panel.  Shouldn't take too long and then I can reassemble the monitor, hold my breath and fire it up!

Just want to say thanks to everyone who has chimed in and helped me out with this process - I was ready to scrap it but now I'm happy I didn't no matter the result (worst case scenario is I have to buy another monitor).   :cheers:

Arroyo

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1344
  • Last login:Today at 04:22:43 pm
  • Budgets are boring
    • newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156267.0.html
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #338 on: August 02, 2020, 09:56:01 am »
Hereís why I wouldnít worry about it. Degaussing isnít needed that often.  As a last resort you can buy an external degaussing wand that if the colors were to get off, and you canít get the coil close enough to the front, you can use it as an alternative just fine.  You wonít need it every time it turns on, just the rarer occasion if it were to get off.

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 6641
  • Last login:Today at 04:57:52 pm
    • Bella's Arcade
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #339 on: August 02, 2020, 10:19:25 am »
Hereís why I wouldnít worry about it. Degaussing isnít needed that often.  As a last resort you can buy an external degaussing wand that if the colors were to get off, and you canít get the coil close enough to the front, you can use it as an alternative just fine.  You wonít need it every time it turns on, just the rarer occasion if it were to get off.

OK... so I'm leaving it as is and will use the corner brackets for support.  The coil will be kind of close but not exact.  Now let's see if I can get this thing installed!

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1274
  • Last login:Today at 02:25:32 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #340 on: August 02, 2020, 11:16:22 am »
I always put the coil just behind the wooden mount, but usually hook it up to the corner pegs, possibly with a few cable ties. So it will be as close as possible. Like Arroyo says, it isn't that important. Near enough is good enough. Will try to get a pic for you.
Check out my completed projects!


javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 6641
  • Last login:Today at 04:57:52 pm
    • Bella's Arcade
javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #341 on: August 02, 2020, 12:13:18 pm »
Ok ... new issue.  I made the shelf but the wires are not long enough to be reattached.  The shelf is as close to the tube as possible but if I make the chassis lie directly on the shelf the neck PCB does not reach the neck and the suction cup wire does not have enough length to pop back in.  It has to be situated like Iím showing in the picture but as you can see there is quite a large gap and the chassis is not at a 90 degree angle relative to the face frame.



Iím not sure how to secure it in place - the metal casing doesnít really have anywhere to screw into and Iím afraid Velcro or something will give out over time.

Iíve seen people use PCB feet for the boards but I donít think I can do that here because my PCB needs to stay inside if the metal casing (there are tons of wires that attach directly to it for ground I assume).  Also, the VGA cable is supported by the metal case and if I took that out it would put a lot of pressure on the neck board due to its weight.

Any ideas how to secure the chassis?

Arroyo

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1344
  • Last login:Today at 04:22:43 pm
  • Budgets are boring
    • newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156267.0.html
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #342 on: August 02, 2020, 12:21:01 pm »
Maybe Iím missing something, but why not cut some wood triangle pieces to close the gap?  Iíd cut three, one for each side and one in the middle, no?

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1274
  • Last login:Today at 02:25:32 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #343 on: August 02, 2020, 12:24:25 pm »
Use a short piece of scrap wood to put along the back/bottom - route it so that there is an "L" shape along it (you could also just do a straight cut 1-2 cm deep along it, and use a chisel or something to remove the excess). That way the bottom of the L can sit under the chassis, while the back of the L sits behing the back, securing the chassis and preventing it from sliding out
Check out my completed projects!


Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1274
  • Last login:Today at 02:25:32 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #344 on: August 02, 2020, 12:25:22 pm »
or like Arroyo suggests - there are many ways to do it
Check out my completed projects!


jennifer

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2452
  • Last login:Yesterday at 07:07:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #345 on: August 02, 2020, 12:26:30 pm »
I wouldnt worry about that coil, Initially it may have impurity since the position of the monitor was changed from vertical to horizontal (cocktails are bad for that) but wave a big speaker magnet over it and it clears up...As for that metal chassis, I was wondering, could you cut the front off it about where that blue tape 8 is and move that section under the Mdf? That would allow it to move closer to the tube and up a little....Well maybe not under, but relocate.
« Last Edit: August 02, 2020, 12:38:30 pm by jennifer »

jennifer

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2452
  • Last login:Yesterday at 07:07:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #346 on: August 02, 2020, 12:33:00 pm »
Because since it is not a TV anymore all you really need of that as structure is tha back panel (and probiblly bottom pan).

jennifer

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2452
  • Last login:Yesterday at 07:07:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #347 on: August 02, 2020, 12:43:48 pm »
yes...cut the front and sides off carefully at an angle up to that blue tape marker, just leaving the bottom piece and move it closer to the tube and up on spacers (or wood batons)...Thats what Jennifer would do.

jennifer

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2452
  • Last login:Yesterday at 07:07:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #348 on: August 02, 2020, 01:06:36 pm »
Athough if you do this... As a wedge shape, don't cut it all the way down to the bottom, leave as much as you can (probibally around 3/8") as a lip around the bottom edge for structure...A piece of small rubber hose with a slice in it would make a nice cover for your cut, so it would look nice, but not spending 3 days doing it.

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 6641
  • Last login:Today at 04:57:52 pm
    • Bella's Arcade
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #349 on: August 02, 2020, 01:08:58 pm »
Thank you!  After reading your suggestions, the lightbulb went off and I forced the shelf about 1/2Ē closer than I thought was possible (wedging it in place instead of cutting a shim).  This meant the front of the chassis was no longer flush with the MDF but it allowed enough slack to get the rest of it to sit flush.




I will definitely use your collective ďblockingĒ idea to keep it from moving and I guess Iím going to drill some holes in the shelf for zip ties just so it wonít move around- otherwise thereís nothing actually securing it in place.

I also realized I need to drill a hole in the front so that the monitorís control board and power switch will be accessible. 

The coil is going to be what it is.  Not a lot I can do to position it.  Hopefully it wonít matter.

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 6641
  • Last login:Today at 04:57:52 pm
    • Bella's Arcade
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #350 on: August 02, 2020, 04:02:57 pm »
Just primed and painted the front... holes for the zip ties and control access are drilled and the rails are in the best I can get them.  Iím leaving 3Ē from the smoked glass to the panels holding the monitor. 



I canít get an exact measurement of the distance from the center of the glass to the panel (how far it sticks up) but I think that will leave me with enough room and if the monitor sits 1Ē lower than ideal so what, right?



I tried getting a level and measuring but best I could do was ballpark it.  The carpet adds some thickness and I donít want to scratch it if I lay it on the table and start moving it around. 

Next hour or two will be mounting the monitor and reassembling everything.  Final step will be to add the blocking so things stay in place.

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 6641
  • Last login:Today at 04:57:52 pm
    • Bella's Arcade
javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #351 on: August 02, 2020, 07:16:38 pm »
Alright... zip ties didnít work because the ones I had in hand were way too big but everything seems secure.  I reconnected everything and Iím about ready to see if it will fit and everything will hold.  I do want to get some small zip ties tomorrow for the degaussing coil- itís kind of just flopping around.



The blocking keeps everything tight so thereís almost no wiggle room... does the wood present any kind of fire hazard?  I assume not because that would mean the MDF would be a fire hazard too and Iíve never seen it mentioned.



I hope I can lift this in place.  I hope it works.  I hope the mount holds.  I could not add diagonal stretchers like I wanted because of space considerations.  I thought about using a cable but Iíll only do that if things seem shaky.

I didnít glue anything so I can take it all apart if need be but truth be told if I broke something Iím just going to use a shelf for the replacement monitor.

My work space is also my work space - my desk - so I need to get this out if the way for tomorrow morning...  here goes nothing.

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 6641
  • Last login:Today at 04:57:52 pm
    • Bella's Arcade
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #352 on: August 02, 2020, 07:28:26 pm »
Well it looks pretty good.  I have some wiggle room vertically where I can place it.  I need to finalize the CP size - wait until I start with that process haha.




The control board just kind of hangs there and the second hole is for power - I can still stick my finger in there to press power.  There is a tiny tiny scratch on the monitor that I hope isnít noticeable when I turn it on... which I will do tomorrow.  Iíve had it.  I donít have it in me to clean up an implosion or patch a wall when I put my fist through it.  What a weekend.

Thanks again everyone!

Arroyo

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1344
  • Last login:Today at 04:22:43 pm
  • Budgets are boring
    • newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156267.0.html
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #353 on: August 02, 2020, 07:50:49 pm »
Nice clean work as always.  Lookin good buddy!

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 6641
  • Last login:Today at 04:57:52 pm
    • Bella's Arcade
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #354 on: August 02, 2020, 08:08:11 pm »
Nice clean work as always.  Lookin good buddy!
Thanks man.  This was a tough one for me not knowing what Iím doing.  Basically building is the only thing I feel comfortable in this hobby and thatís like 1 out of 10 different things you need to know haha.

No fire hazard based on how I blocked everything?  I canít believe how tight everything is - literally no slack on most of the wires (except the degaussing coil, of course, which is flopping around currently).

One thing I noticed is that my plans for the back door might have to change slightly otherwise I wonít ever be able to remove the monitor.  Hmmm...

Assuming the monitor actually works, Iím in the home stretch.

Arroyo

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1344
  • Last login:Today at 04:22:43 pm
  • Budgets are boring
    • newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156267.0.html
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #355 on: August 02, 2020, 08:11:29 pm »
No fire hazard.  If you look at many original machines they did the same thing you just did.  You are good!

leapinlew

  • Some questionable things going on in this room with cheetos
  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7555
  • Last login:Today at 01:30:37 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #356 on: August 02, 2020, 08:33:49 pm »

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1274
  • Last login:Today at 02:25:32 pm
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #357 on: August 02, 2020, 08:57:03 pm »
Looking good javeryh!  :cheers:
Check out my completed projects!


jdbailey1206

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2614
  • Last login:Yesterday at 08:15:03 am
  • No. It's your top score on Pole Position.
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #358 on: August 03, 2020, 09:09:56 am »
Awesome javeryh.  This gives me more confidence to remove the outside of my CRT monitor for my Star Wars build and not go with a 19" 4:3 flat computer monitor. 

Mike A

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4548
  • Last login:Today at 04:37:27 pm
  • card carrying purist
Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #359 on: August 03, 2020, 09:23:59 am »
I know you are deeply committed to the CRT you have. Kudos for diving in.

I am posting this for other people watching.

An arcade monitor is 1000x easier to mount in a cab. They are easier to fix. They are less likely to break.

Every person I have suggested this to said they are too hard to find, and then I found one in their area within minutes of searching.

That being said, I really like your cab design and I am glad you decided to go with a CRT. There is a scary learning curve, but the rewards outweigh the frustrations.