The SquareVision Max cabinet

[markiej]

I've just completed the design and feasibility phase of this project.  I found myself with a spare 43" 4K TV and was thinking of something to do with it.  Turns out, with nVidia drivers, I can set the resolution to 2160 x 2160, and rotate it, making a perfect, 28" diagonal square smack in the middle of the display, which is awesome in that it gives equal footing to vertical and horizontal games.  I designed a cabinet around this quirk in sketchup.  Just today, I did some mame tests to see how it would look.  Turns out, kind of amazing (that's a lot of pixels for HLSL to do its magic.).  I did a lot of fine tuning on the cabinet, but will start looking around here for tips before taking the plunge.

[Mike A]

Unless you really need the space, the slim look is weird. Since you are going to give the monitor area the correct proportions you should do the same with the rest of the cab.

[Arroyo]

Seems a bit tall to me on the marquee area.  It looks like from your render that you have room to play with shortening the height of the head of the design, and lowering your screen down?  Might make the ratios of control panel height to top of the machine more in proportion?  You could also raise your control panel as well.....

There are a few people that have done the vertical screen thing, and it can turn out well.  These two come to mind at the moment:

Mimic - by Laythe

Marvel Vs. Capcom: Revolution version 2.0 - by Maximus

Also as Mike said just cause your screen is thin doesn't mean the cab has to be, might play with the depth and see how you like it.

Good luck on your build!

[markiej]

Unless you really need the space, the slim look is weird. Since you are going to give the monitor area the correct proportions you should do the same with the rest of the cab.

I have been thinking about going maybe a couple of inches deeper, but more for stability and wiggle room on the inside.  Honestly space is a concern, my house is on the petit side, and I like the idea of not building something that's going to be mostly filled with air.  But you're right in that I don't want it to look like a super slim cabinet, like some I've seen.

[Mike A]

More surface area on the side panels also gives you more options for artwork.

[markiej]

Seems a bit tall to me on the marquee area.  It looks like from your render that you have room to play with shortening the height of the head of the design, and lowering your screen down?  Might make the ratios of control panel height to top of the machine more in proportion?  You could also raise your control panel as well.....

If I go a couple of inches deeper, I tilt and lower the TV a bit more, probably shave a few inches of height. (thanks for the tips!)

Made some edits.

[Arroyo]

Those proportions and screen angle look way better.  What's the height of your control panel surface?

[markiej]

Those proportions and screen angle look way better.  What's the height of your control panel surface?

Thanks!  CP surface is 36" off the floor.

[opt2not]

Who's that character from Code Veronica?  That's definitely not Claire Redfield, or Alexia Ashford...

And how tall is this character?

[markiej]

Who's that character from Code Veronica?  That's definitely not Claire Redfield, or Alexia Ashford...

And how tall is this character?

That's just my shorthand for her - she reminded me of the lead from that game - she's got a real "last gen survival horror heroine" vibe to her.  The model is 5'6" in heels.

[markc74]

2nd model looks a lot better. If it was mine I'd increase the height of the marquee a little though - it looks a little narrow.

[yotsuya]

Second one is a winner, my friend

[Laythe]

I like it.  (Perhaps predictably.)   

I agree the second one is an improvement.

Your control panel inclination looks like 0' level-and-flat, in those renders.  If so, I'd recommend tilting it up in back / down in front a little.  Nothing crazy, 5'-10' or so.

[markiej]

Your control panel inclination looks like 0' level-and-flat, in those renders.  If so, I'd recommend tilting it up in back / down in front a little.  Nothing crazy, 5'-10' or so.

Thanks - I may play with this tomorrow - flat is definitely simpler to design and cut, but it would probably look and play better. (plus I was thinking of using hinges and magnets, because I'm sure I'll have to dig around in there from time to time).

[markiej]

2nd model looks a lot better. If it was mine I'd increase the height of the marquee a little though - it looks a little narrow.

I could do that by lowering the bottom bezel a bit - thanks for the suggestion!

[Arroyo]

I could do that by lowering the bottom bezel a bit - thanks for the suggestion!

I think he means make the height of the Marquee taller.  Just for reference a lot of cabs are close to the 6’ height like you originally had (not that it needs to be).  So raising the height back up a little by increasing the height of the Marquee is an option as well.

[Laythe]

So, I'm curious.    

I have a crazy guess. 

Am I correct that you are thinking of using mame layout files to light the unused top of your display white, and then using that for your translucent marquee backlight?

[markiej]

So, I'm curious.    

I have a crazy guess. 

Am I correct that you are thinking of using mame layout files to light the unused top of your display white, and then using that for your translucent marquee backlight?

Not so crazy - I totally considered that, and I know how to work with .lay files to make it happen.  In the end though, I'm sticking with led strips - mainly to avoid what might happen to the screen if a bright white static box is displayed for hours a day.  On the other hand, it's going to be goofy anyway by having the pixels above and below the square never active, so I really shouldn't care.

[javeryh]

I really like that second design - proportions and monitor angle look nice.  How deep is the cab now?  I also live in a very small house so I understand wanting to save space wherever possible.

Also, I would 100% angle your CP.  It's not really that much harder to build and you will notice a huge difference in comfort.  I usually do a 5 degree slant.

[markiej]

I really like that second design - proportions and monitor angle look nice.  How deep is the cab now?  I also live in a very small house so I understand wanting to save space wherever possible.

Also, I would 100% angle your CP.  It's not really that much harder to build and you will notice a huge difference in comfort.  I usually do a 5 degree slant.

Thanks!  I went with 10°. I figure if I'm going to re-do all those pieces, I might as well make it noticeable .

Dimensions of Revision C:

• Base: 25.5" wide x 18" deep
• Height: 5' 4 5/8" in back, 5' 7 5/8" in front
  
• :CP 35" from top-front, 3" in front of base front
• marquee and bottom of monitor are 3" behind the base front

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[javeryh]

It's getting there!  What if you made the CP go inside of the side panels?  This would make the t-molding on the sides continuous and the whole thing would be easier to put together.

[Arroyo]

I agree with Javery above.

Am I reading that right and the height of the machine is 5' 7"?  That is pretty low.  Like I mentioned most machines were closer to 6ft.  I don't know how tall you are but if you have friends coming over that are taller say 6' 2", it might be an uncomfortable viewing angle for them.....Also most control panels are in the 36-38" range, so you could raise that up as well as the height of the machine.....just a thought.

[PL1]

Also most control panels are in the 36-38" range, so you could raise that up as well as the height of the machine

Not sure if OP used them in his design, but adding wheels and leg levelers could help with that and also provide enough clearance to protect the t-molding on the bottom.


Scott

[markiej]

I agree with Javery above.

Am I reading that right and the height of the machine is 5' 7"?  That is pretty low.  Like I mentioned most machines were closer to 6ft.  I don't know how tall you are but if you have friends coming over that are taller say 6' 2", it might be an uncomfortable viewing angle for them.....Also most control panels are in the 36-38" range, so you could raise that up as well as the height of the machine.....just a thought.

All this feedback has be a bit nervous - every adjustment, while pretty easy in sketchup, is resulting in complexity I'm not sure I have the chops for, and might end up with something uncomfortable to use.  So came up with something completely different (borrowing mightily from key measurements of a vewlix cab (cp height, screen angle), but seems far more doable.  It also uses the screen better - I can use mame layouts to place the marquee right in the box up top.  Might be cool - I might just need a break.

[Arroyo]

Hey man, I’m sorry didn’t mean to throw you off.  Your doing a great job, just throwing out some ideas to think about.  I liked your previous design and you had a lot of good things going on.  These are all just suggestions.  At the end of the day it’s your cab, do what makes sense to you.

[markiej]

No worries - all the feedback has been phenomenal, and greatly appreciated!

[Mike A]

Your other design was much better. It wouldn't be difficult to build.

[markiej]

Your other design was much better. It wouldn't be difficult to build.

The box won't be bad - it's just al those "3D" cuts - getting the angles just right.  So easy to design perfect angles, but mitering does my head in .  Here's my latest go. 

[J_K_M_A_N]

It's getting there!  What if you made the CP go inside of the side panels?  This would make the t-molding on the sides continuous and the whole thing would be easier to put together.

I agree 100% on this one. My first one had the CP on top of the sides and the second is inside and it is much nicer IMO. Other than that, I think it looks awesome. I love the idea of using a big screen vertically to get a nice big square screen.

J_K_M_A_N

[Nephasth]

What's Rev K looking like?

[Laythe]

I'm really liking rev D. 

Sincere apologies if we're a bit overwhelming.  We mean well.   

I think D is very do-able in terms of construction.  Regarding the miters and joinery - sure, ideally they'd fit perfect, but if they gap a little that's what bondo is for.   There's room to fix some mistakes as you go.  I'm thinking through how I'd build it and so far I'm only seeing one gotcha to mention - t-molding the edges will be easier if you can give it a bit of a radius on the inside corner of your side panels where it meets the control panel.  It's possible to do sharp angles if that's your vision, but it's kind of a pain.  A pop can size radius is easy.  Tracing around a quarter is about the minimum radius I'd want to try. 


I messed around with my plans a lot before I started.  I went way past Rev K.  I think my files on Shapeshifter are around rev number 49 now.   

I think you're doing great.  I like your design, I think a beginner could successfully build it, and I hope to get to watch the thread if you do so.   

[markiej]

Seriously - I hugely appreciate the feedback!  I think Rev E is the one .  I'll probably disappear for a bit while I learn how to go from a sketchup model to functioning plans.

[gingecko]

Just started watching, it’s interesting watching the design evolve. I wish we had spent a little more time in the design stage and in Sketchup. I might have caught a few mistakes earlier. Then again, sometimes I just need to see it in person, before things click, and nothing ever ends up perfect.

Moving the control panel inside is one thing I kind of wish I had done, just for the aesthetics of continuing the t-molding strip. Though I also wanted to avoid having people bump their hands into the sides while playing.

Keep at it, it will come together!

[PL1]

Two observations about the trackball.

1. They take up a lot of room.  You need to allow for a 6" x 6" footprint under the control panel.

2. if you place your palm on the trackball and push forward, will you smash your fingers into the monitor bezel?  "Two-thumbs" style Golden Tee players might not care, but "Superman" style players definitely will.   


Scott

[gingecko]

Oh yea, forgot to mention that I’m curious how your squared TV works out. I had done a lot of poking around in the threads while thinking about my cab, and I guess Laythes cab was probably one in the back of my head. If I had the spare TV, probably would have worked well with my cab. There are tons of cool designs and good ideas in these forums, but you can’t really incorporate all of them at once.

[markiej]

Oh yea, forgot to mention that I’m curious how your squared TV works out. I had done a lot of poking around in the threads while thinking about my cab, and I guess Laythes cab was probably one in the back of my head. If I had the spare TV, probably would have worked well with my cab. There are tons of cool designs and good ideas in these forums, but you can’t really incorporate all of them at once.

Here's a gallery of pictures I took of my testing of the square resolution with MAME and HLSL.  In some of them I put in a lego guy for scale (it's really large).  I also popped in a bezel to show the actual resolution.  Worth zooming in to native resolution to see how well HLSL works with that many pixels.  (it would also probably look great with 1080x1080)
https://imgur.com/a/gGtv5JO

EDIT: it was after I saw how it would actually look on the set in question that I lost my mind trying to design a cabinet .  It really looks that good - plus a fairly modern TV like this has great blacks and viewing angles.  It's pretty spectacular.  And at $229 it's kind of a steal IMHO

[markiej]

Two observations about the trackball.

1. They take up a lot of room.  You need to allow for a 6" x 6" footprint under the control panel.

2. if you place your palm on the trackball and push forward, will you smash your fingers into the monitor bezel?  "Two-thumbs" style Golden Tee players might not care, but "Superman" style players definitely will.   

For now the control panel is a sort of a mockup -  I figure I should have plenty of room with a surface of 25.5" x 7 7/8" - was thinking of 2 astro city configs like https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout/sega2_s.png, and a trackball in the middle.  If it's tight, 8 buttons is overkill so I'll go down to 6.  At some point I'll have to figure out how to gouge out the space under the panel for the trackball, since they're not really designed for 3/4" plywood/MDF.  Thanks!!

[PL1]

At some point I'll have to figure out how to gouge out the space under the panel for the trackball, since they're not really designed for 3/4" plywood/MDF.

You may want to consider Ultimarc's U-Trak.   




Scott

[markiej]

You may want to consider Ultimarc's U-Trak.   


Scott

I like (even though it costs almosts as much as the PC powering everything )

[PL1]

Decent quality trackballs aren't cheap.

If cost or space is a major issue, there are smaller PS/2 trackballs like this one or this one.

They are nowhere near the quality of the U-Trak or arcade trackballs, but are smaller and far more affordable.

There is a mounting plate for them here or you could use the approach that Degenatrons documents here on a 1/2" (12mm) panel.
------------
If you do decide to go with a high quality Happ trackball, avoid the ones with the built-in USB and PS/2 interface like this.


They are really expensive and there have been complaints of backspin.   

Get an arcade version with Red Boards and Molex harness instead and use the GGG Trackball Cable for Opti-Wiz "No-Solder" to replace the Molex harness.



If you want to use the GGG cable on the Dupont pins of an IPac, you'll need to extract the ground pin (2 black wires) from the black Dupont housing since the 5v and ground pins aren't next to each other on the IPac.
- It's very easy to do.   




Scott