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Author Topic: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse  (Read 2847 times)

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perjmolsen

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hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« on: May 02, 2019, 03:37:05 pm »
Hi

Now my second monitor in Time Chrisis II need my attention.  ::)

Tonight it went bang... and bad smell.  :badmood:

I can see that the big 150uf 400V cap has become bad, it also only reads 32uf
The main fuse is also blown

So I have changed the 150uf 400V cap and the fuse - but the fuse still blows :(

What would be the best way to isolate the power-supply from the rest of the board?
Is it to remove the HOT, then if it is the flyback or hot the fuse will not blow?
Then I also can test my volts?

Or what do you mean ?  :D


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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #1 on: May 02, 2019, 04:08:54 pm »
Bridte rectifier  diodes tests OK
HOT tests OK
« Last Edit: May 02, 2019, 04:18:50 pm by perjmolsen »

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #2 on: May 02, 2019, 04:58:51 pm »
hmm..

I think that it is the T101 - when I removed the clamp that hold the transistor in place, the transistor felt apart  :laugh:
So I have ordered 10 new IRFBC30 in china

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #3 on: May 03, 2019, 04:02:41 pm »
Hi

I have a Question..  ;D

I can see that the blown  T101 is a P4NA60, if i google it the data sheet -> https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/24416/STMICROELECTRONICS/STP4NA60.html

I have a K3567 in an old chassis from a tv.. can that replace the P4NA60?->https://alltransistors.com/mosfet/transistor.php?transistor=14506

Both are N -Channel MOSFET and 600V.. but what values need to be the same when replacing a transistor?
« Last Edit: May 03, 2019, 04:07:21 pm by perjmolsen »

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #4 on: May 11, 2019, 03:12:28 pm »
Hi

I now have change the T101 with a replacement K3567 n-channel mosfet  and now the fuse does not blow.
But I do not have any B+ at tespoint TP6 it is just 0V

If i look at the diagram it says, check R103 it might be open - but i can not find that resistor.. I assume it needs to be in the power supply area...

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2019, 03:20:47 pm »
Found it  :applaud:

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2019, 03:44:01 pm »
The R103 where OK

So tested the next component D105 it conducts both ways
And if I test it in my china tester i get a starnage reading, so it is bad.

Is a ULTRAFAST MUR 460 - 600V 4A
I do not have a ULTRAFAST MUR 460 in my component box - can it be replaced with a normal 600V 4A diode?

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #7 on: May 12, 2019, 08:34:48 am »
Your pics shows the bridge rectifier diodes are BY255 which is also what the manual says. You could also use a 1N4008.

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #8 on: May 27, 2019, 06:55:50 am »
Hi

The pics above that shows the four bridge rectifier diodes is all OK.
The diode that is dead is D105 - the diode is mounted close to the T101 transistor , I have changed the transistor to a new IRFBC30

I am waiting for the D105 diode (ULTRAFAST MUR 460) to arrive... My order is in my country, so now i am just waiting for the local post office  :applaud:
« Last Edit: May 27, 2019, 06:57:29 am by perjmolsen »

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #9 on: May 29, 2019, 03:07:25 am »
Update

Replaced the diode D105 with a new ULTRAFAST MUR 460
Now the fuse blows again :( and no volts are at TP6 testpoint

If i follow the chart below.. then i need to change IC101 (UC3842)I have that chip in my parts boxes
and test the diodes D105 to D112

Attahced a picture all the components that are marked red are changed
« Last Edit: May 29, 2019, 03:09:47 am by perjmolsen »

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #10 on: May 29, 2019, 03:28:38 am »
An update more

Tested diodes D105 to D112 one leg out, all tested OK between 0.4V - 0.5V one way only
so now i will change IC101

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #11 on: May 29, 2019, 04:05:11 am »
 :hissy:

Changed the IC101 also.. and also the two cap's in the powersupply selection C111 and C112
Fuse still blows!!!  :hissy:

 :badmood:


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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #12 on: May 29, 2019, 04:49:37 am »
R103 NTC20E Test like this is that OK?

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #13 on: May 29, 2019, 05:02:49 am »
Removed the R104 (PTC)

And tested it, is that OK?


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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #14 on: May 29, 2019, 05:26:54 am »
I have put in R103 the NTC- the fuse blows
R104 PTC is not put in yet..

So what can cause the fuse to blow...
« Last Edit: May 29, 2019, 05:29:05 am by perjmolsen »

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #15 on: May 29, 2019, 08:02:19 am »
I THINK that i have found the issue ZD101 an 18V Zener diode is dead...  :applaud:
So one more time... change the dead T101 and fuse...

Cross fingers...

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #16 on: May 29, 2019, 09:42:01 am »
Well... now the R103 the NTC10 went up in smoke.. and the fuse blow again..!  :cry:
If i Read the resistance on NTC10 it reads 9.75Ohms so i think it still are good.

The T101 is dead again...
« Last Edit: May 29, 2019, 09:51:53 am by perjmolsen »

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #17 on: May 29, 2019, 06:12:50 pm »
Positive progress now!!!  :applaud:

The manual says that T101 is an IRFBC30 - and i got IRFBE30 (with an E instead of C)
The T101 that orginal where in my monitor where an STP4NA60 (N - CHANNEL  MOS 600V - 4.3A)

I had an 2SK3567 (N Channel MOS 600V - 3.5A)

And i put that in, now the fuse does NOT blow and i get a B+ at TP6 only  at 88V now... and no neck glow, so now i just have to get the vold up to 146V and neck glow..
Progress in the right direction  :applaud:

 


« Last Edit: May 29, 2019, 06:20:50 pm by perjmolsen »

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #18 on: May 29, 2019, 06:54:49 pm »
Thinking.. that the replacement  2SK3567 is not "fast" enough so it causes my volts to be "strange" so i think i have to order some STP4NA60 as original mounted

TP6 = 88V must be 145V
TP7 = 18V must be 85V
TP8= 51V, to high must be 27V
TP9 = 49V, to high must ve 15V
 

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #19 on: May 30, 2019, 02:13:16 am »
desolder pin 3 of flyback and add a 40w 240v lamp to any ground and the solder pad of pin 3- there are solder points on pin 3 track you can go to rather than going directly to the pin track itself
this will prove whether the issue is purely power supply related

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #20 on: May 30, 2019, 04:38:24 am »
Hi

Did the bulb test removed the solder at pin 3 on flyback, and also with the HOT removed.

TP6 i had 155V adjusted it down to 145V
And then suddenly the bulb went out and the volt it fluxing between 5-20V at TP6 (the light bulb does not flicker)
If i remove the bulb i get 105V at TP6, but it goes down to 5-20V when i attach it.

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #21 on: May 30, 2019, 04:14:57 pm »
Status - still the fluxing volts

All the caps are changed at the chassis.
I have also put in a new Flyback
Also put in a new HOT (the old one where OK)
Tested the diodes in the PSU selection , D116 to D119 all OK

Tested the diodes at the flyback D135, D135, D137 - all OK
Tested caps at the flyback C172, C174, C175 - all OK

When i test volt with flyback leg3 removed, and bulb on the pad to leg 3 i get fluxing volts, and no light in the bulb

If i test with the flyback connected i get a ticking sound.

I assume that my issue is caused by my T101 that it is an 2SK3567
original it where mounted an STP4NA60. - but I have for a breef moment had 145V steady with the 2SK3567  ...

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #22 on: May 31, 2019, 08:35:06 am »
Did some more tests..

Trying to isolate the PSU part of the chassis...

If I am right... then disconnecting the following will disconnect the rest of the chassis, so it will proof that my issue is in the PSU selection.

Lifting on leg at
L103, L106, and D118

Connected light bulb to the other site at L103 (close to PSU)

The 40W lightbulb still pulses... so it must be my T101 ...(still waiting for a replacement)
« Last Edit: May 31, 2019, 08:36:47 am by perjmolsen »

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #23 on: June 01, 2019, 08:16:57 am »
Well.. new T101 mounted (with isolator), an STP4NK60Z (600 V - 4A Nchannel mosfet)

Nearly identical with the orginal in the monitor. STP4NA60 (600V - 4.3A N-channel mosfet)

All is connected, new flyback and L103, L106, and D118
Still the same issue the monitor is ticking!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  :badmood:

Have tested all  - only one thing seems out of spec..
C170, is an 330nf - and if i test it it reads as 322 nf esr 0,11 ohm (can low esr aslo be a bad thing)?
If i look in the manual is says that C170 needs to be 820nf
I do not have a 820nf poly cap in my parts, I do have a 330nf poly cap

But can I rule the C170 out, if i disconnect L103, L106, and D118?
And to the bulb test conneted to the other end at L103?





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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #24 on: June 01, 2019, 09:30:22 am »
c170 is a 330nf 250v
322nf is 330nf

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #25 on: June 01, 2019, 04:24:50 pm »
OK thanks Grant  :cheers:

I have changed all the caps in the PSU selection again.. still the same

 :dizzy: testing components.... still not have figured out why the psu shutting down when i attach at 40W bulb to pad on pin3 at flyback. (solder removed at flyback pin3)

It must be in the PSU selection...
In my test i have removed one leg at
D112
D117
D118
D119

Only D116 is connected - and i have also changed the diode just to rule that out.
My multimeter is connected to TP6 and its pulsing. :badmood: :badmood: :badmood:

Can it really be this time i have to give up---?!?

Resistors R111,R112,R113 is also tested ok..

What do I overlook.... :banghead:

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #26 on: June 02, 2019, 02:37:42 am »
Some pictures of the back and front at the psu on the chassis

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #27 on: June 02, 2019, 10:44:59 am »
Update..

I have now found out why i had pulsing volts.  :applaud:

It where the D105 that had gone bad again!!!...so swapped it out with a new one.

Had still removed one leg on
D112
D117
D118
D119
Also removed solder at pin3 flyback

Only D116 is connected to rule out the rest of the board.

40W Bulb connected to pad before L103
Test leads to multimeter connected to D116 + at the end with the stripe on the diode and - to chassis

Turned it on an.. power at my bulb for a short time them something shorted/burned around D116.
I have tested the resistors R129,.R130, R131, C123 around the diode, also the small ceramic discs all seems fine.
Also D115 is fine.

So now i need to figure out what burned.. and why it burned... up hill but i am not giving up yet  :o
« Last Edit: June 02, 2019, 10:47:04 am by perjmolsen »

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #28 on: June 02, 2019, 12:02:17 pm »
Connected all again
D112
D117
D118
D119

Moved 40W bulb to pad on leg 3 at flyback

Tested T101 - OK
IC101 - OK

Put in a new C121 100uf 450V and now back to pulsing volts with 40W bulb connected.. 4-5V
without bulb connected 100V

... so back to where i started
« Last Edit: June 02, 2019, 01:50:14 pm by perjmolsen »

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #29 on: June 03, 2019, 03:57:30 am »
Update..

Checked comonents one more time...

T114 - HOT - OK

D116 - OK
D117- OK
D118- OK
D119 - OK

D134 - OK
D135 - OK

C172 - OK
C174 - OK
C175 - reads 12nf - replaced with a new 22 nf poly

C114 - OK
C112 - OK

R130 - reads 4.40 ohm according to manual it must be 3.9 Ohm
I only have a 3.3ohm - reads as 3.5 ohm - can i replace R130 with that one?

The R130 is around that place where i yesterday saw some smoke, so it must has been R130 who blew up..

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #30 on: June 03, 2019, 07:55:07 am »
TP1 needs to be around +310V / +330V but mine is only 48V DC  ???
When measuring TP1 - I use chassis as ground, is that not the correct way?

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #31 on: June 03, 2019, 08:07:53 am »
I used the wrong ground.
Tried the ground at the heatsink (where T101 is)

Now I have 285-295V at TP1... I assume the switching is caused by the PSU is turning on and off...

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #32 on: June 03, 2019, 08:29:56 am »
TP3 I have jumping volts.. up to max 0.5VDC
TP4 I have 12-16V

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #33 on: June 04, 2019, 09:29:09 am »
Tested some more..

And concluded that it must be my transformer that has an issue.
Because if I disconnect the lightbulb then the b+ volts rises to 170, then i connect the bulb again just to not get the volt to rise to far.
So when the volt rises, then the main parts in the psu must be OK.

Then when the bulb is connected the trafo starts to make small clicking noises again.

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #34 on: June 07, 2019, 06:45:41 am »
I refuse to give up.....   ;D

So i have testet the transformer for shorts.. no shorts at all
Both the primary side and the secondary side tests without short.

Note that on the picture below the pin numbers on the primary side is my own values/number listing... I could not figure out of the pin numbers in the documentation.

So my next step is to change the  R111,R112,R113 (1.5Ohm Resistors) if they are out of spec they will cause the Power Supply to oscillate with no load but does not run with a load.  (I have read that in another old post)

I test mine as:
R111 = 1.4
R112= 1.6
R113= 1.6

So when I get some 1.5 Ohm I will try to change them.
I have already changed or tested all the other componetns arround the spms ic.

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #35 on: June 07, 2019, 10:16:33 am »
Well... got the new resistors today, and put them in.. still the same issue.  :badmood: :banghead:
Pin 1 and 3 is disconnected at the flyback, 40W load on pin3 pad and chassis as ground.

A smalll video -


 :dizzy:

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #36 on: June 07, 2019, 04:26:24 pm »
remember to bridge the centre two pins of deflection header or have the yoke plugged in

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #37 on: June 07, 2019, 04:57:13 pm »
Hi Grant  :cheers:

Yes - I have Remember to plug in the yoke plugged in.. even that i wish i not had at the moment, so it had been an easy fix  ;D

I have tried to measure between chassis ground at the test points...

TP6= 100.3 Ohm
TP7= 0 Ohm
TP8 0.794 Ohm
TP9= 33.23 Ohm

Can there be some sort of small short when i get a ohms reading?
Thinking that I might have to take some measurements on my other Hantarex chassis.. it should have the same ohms readings

perjmolsen

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #38 on: June 08, 2019, 02:44:02 pm »
Hi  :cheers:

Some updates

Took som measurements on my other working chassis

TP6= 0.750 ohm (took awhile before it where steady- on my bad one is immediately go to 101.3 ohm)
TP7= OL
TP8= 0.928 ohm
TP9= 191.9 ohm

Noticed a burned spot on my bad chassis.. but i have measured the diode and resistors on it, they measures ok - but thinking that i might need to change the parts, because on my working one no burned spot

still a bit  :dizzy:

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Re: hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
« Reply #39 on: June 09, 2019, 04:22:54 am »
Tested ohms across the resistors in the burned circuit at the bad chassis,and got these values (tested in circuit)

R119= 001.4 ohm
R255= 003.1 ohm
L112= 003.1 ohm (colis)
L102= 001.6 ohm (coils)
R118=0.920 ohm

Same measurements taken on my working chassis resistors in circuit

R119=000.4 ohm
R255=000.9 ohm
L112=000.6 ohm (coils)
L102=000.3 ohm (coils)
R118=0.953 ohm

So next step is to pull the resistors out in the bad chassis and test/replace them.
If I look at the colors I get this values, sometimes my eyes cant see colors, so can someone confirm the values?

R119= 100 ohms
R255= 560 ohms
L112=220 ohms (coils)
L102=150 ohms (coils)
R118= 1k omhs

If I pull the resistors out i get this reading:
R119= 97.4 ohms
R255=0.548k ohms
L112= 4.4 ohms (coils)
L102= 2.6 ohms (coils)
R118= 0.989k ohms

So my conclusion is that L112 and L102 is coils and cannot be tested this way, all the other comments are close to spec and not the cause
« Last Edit: June 09, 2019, 06:04:23 am by perjmolsen »