Not sure how to mount custom CP to Dynamo HS-2

[AxFactor]

So I inherited a Double Dragon 2 cab, which seems to be either a Dynamo HS-1 or 2. I originally wanted to make a replica Killer Instinct cab out of it, but quickly abandoned the idea. I'm now working on just an all custom design, and the CP is giving me a headache. I'm not sure how to mount it. The width of the cp area of the cab is 24", and I wanted to do a 26" cp. I also want to level it out to be more flat, instead of as angled as the cab sides would want me to have it if I wanted to just rest it on the frame.

My idea was the make the cp box, and cut notches to fit over the sides of the cp  area in the cab frame and hiding them. I was going to get metal brackets to screw into the box and the cab frame on both sides for stability. Might also do that underneath as well for added strength. One concern is how strong would that be if I'm using mdf wood, my concern is the weight. I also measured and the cp box would be about 6-7 inches in height, is that normally enough room?

I'm a totally new at this and having a somewhat perfectionist mindset for this, I've been researching for the last 2 weeks on how I wanted to do this. Would love to see some pics of how people are joining their cps to the cab frames.

CP style I'd like to use is similar to an Killer Instinct style cp.

[paigeoliver]

Just say no.

Absolutely do not chop your cabinet to make the control panel 2" wider. It will not look good no matter what you do, it will get laughed at, and it will likely eventually end up in the dumpster because you cut it. That style of cabinet just wasn't done with a "box".

I have had to undo "improvements" like that in restorations before and believe me it is not fun work. What especially concerns me is that the way you are describing it those extra 2" will just be unused dead space anyway. Why would you chop your cabinet to add extra space that wasn't used.

If you are a perfectionist then you don't want to do this, you will learn more about arcade machines later and grow to hate what you did to this one.

[paigeoliver]

This cabinet had been chopped for an oversize panel when I got it. It took many hours of work to undo the damage someone caused because they wanted a couple extra inches for some reason.

[AxFactor]

Sorry if I didn't explain it clearly, but I'm not so much looking to cut any of the current cabinet up. What I'm thinking of doing is making a CP box, and slipping that over the top of the 2 extrusions where the original cp would've been. So I would cut 2 notches in the box to slip over the top of those extrusions and fasten it to the cab that way where the original cp would've covered anyways.

[paigeoliver]

Sorry if I didn't explain it clearly, but I'm not so much looking to cut any of the current cabinet up. What I'm thinking of doing is making a CP box, and slipping that over the top of the 2 extrusions where the original cp would've been. So I would cut 2 notches in the box to slip over the top of those extrusions and fasten it to the cab that way where the original cp would've covered anyways.

It will still look terrible, those 2 inches will still be unpopulated so they won't be doing anything, why the obsession with making the panel bigger. Control panel boxes belong on 90s cabinets, you have an 80s one, 80s cabs kept it between the sides. It will never look right and I am not sure what in the world you are even trying to accomplish.

[Cynicaster]

Since it’s a generic cabinet, I don’t think it matters what the heck you do to it, so long as it gets you where you want to be.  After all, if you don’t use it for something the alternative fate for it is probably to become worm food.  So hack away, if that’s what you want to do. 

Most anything is possible with the right amount of finesse and skill, but I have to say you’ve got a challenge on your hands to integrate a wider-than-cabinet control panel on there in such a way that will satisfy your perfectionist standards. 

The “overhanging” side portions of the CP will not only be difficult to make work aesthetically, but it will probably not be functional in any way because controls require more space than you might think on the underside of the control panel, and the existing protrusions on the cabinet will be in the way.

I think your best bet to getting something that is simultaneously nice-looking, sturdy, and functional would be to build a small box with basic controls that fits between the existing side panels.  When I was building my cabinet I was wondering how to affix my control panel and I ended up mounting pieces of angle iron on the interior of the two sides.  The angle iron had holes drilled all along its length, so I picked two holes on each side and used carriage bolts up through the angle iron and bottom of the control box to hold it down.  Worked great, and I see no reason why it wouldn’t work on the cabinet in the photo you posted. 

[yotsuya]

Damn, if I had a Dynamo like that, I'd be looking for an authentic control panel for that thing. Anything else is just going to feel weird to you. Especially if you want to flatten out the control panel.

[mahuti]

My idea was the make the cp box, and cut notches to fit over the sides of the cp  area in the cab frame and hiding them. I was going to get metal brackets to screw into the box and the cab frame on both sides for stability.

Panel clamps and brackets are pretty standard, combined with resting the weight of the panel on the existing cab frame so that not all of the weight and abuse is going straight into the brackets alone.

Whatever you do, you will want to make the panel easily removable. Screwing it into brackets rather than securing it with panel clamps will make it difficult WHEN you need to do work on the control panel. usually a combo of panel brackets and some butterfly bolts will do the job of securing it to the brackets.

 

  One concern is how strong would that be if I'm using mdf wood, my concern is the weight.

I wouldn't worry about the weight, as long as most of the weight is taken by the cab.

I also measured and the cp box would be about 6-7 inches in height, is that normally enough room?[

That's more than enough, unless you're using deep controls like an up-down spinner, or some other exotic control. Joysticks and buttons don't need much depth. Even with a big spinner/trackball, you shouldn't need that much depth.

That said, if it were me, I'd try to follow the contours of the cab shape, rather than flattening it out. Most cabs in the wild have somewhat of an angled control panel.

I'd be looking for an authentic control panel for that thing. Anything else is just going to feel weird to you.

Personally, I'm not  much of a purist, but I do like decent aesthetics. Not much of a fan in general of CPOs that don't look like they belong. But... it's a generic box cab so     My typical approach is to try to do no harm, but otherwise do what makes most sense to me.

[tebright1]

Here's an example I did with a HS1 and a custom CP box. I am wanted a 4 player MAME cab and needed a larger CP. To not destroy the cabinet, I put drawer rails on the inside that can support a ton of weight. The CP can be pulled out to work on. When done it pushes in and latches. I saved the original control panel in case someone ever wants to restore it back to a normal cab.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[yotsuya]

I think your control panel is as tall as your screen height.

[Malenko]

Here's an example I did with a HS1 and a custom CP box. I am wanted a 4 player MAME cab and needed a larger CP. To not destroy the cabinet, I put drawer rails on the inside that can support a ton of weight. The CP can be pulled out to work on. When done it pushes in and latches. I saved the original control panel in case someone ever wants to restore it back to a normal cab

Thanks for proving our point that he shouldn't do it.

[tebright1]

Here's an example I did with a HS1 and a custom CP box. I am wanted a 4 player MAME cab and needed a larger CP. To not destroy the cabinet, I put drawer rails on the inside that can support a ton of weight. The CP can be pulled out to work on. When done it pushes in and latches. I saved the original control panel in case someone ever wants to restore it back to a normal cab

Thanks for proving our point that he shouldn't do it.

The whole assembly comes off. You wouldn't know it's there once removed. I say let the guy do what he wants with his generic cab. At the end of the day it's his.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[harveybirdman]

Honestly how could you possibly think that cp is even remotely appropriate in design or proportion to recommend as a possible solution?

I'm with the other dude bros... get an original panel or make one to specs.

[harveybirdman]

I wish I could find a pic of that custom wwf panel that one dude did, he flattened ot and made the wrist angle much better on his HS1 and it looked bad ass.  Plus excuse to buy a metal brake for your shop 

[tebright1]

Honestly how could you possibly think that cp is even remotely appropriate in design or proportion to recommend as a possible solution?

I'm with the other dude bros... get an original panel or make one to specs.

I did some research on 4 player control panel and settled on something like this:
http://jarrettheather.com/img/spaceparanoids/1.jpg

The OP was looking for ideas and I wanted to share. To each their own. Good luck on what you come up with.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[Mike A]

Those pics make my soul weep.

[DeLuSioNal29]

Damn, if I had a Dynamo like that, I'd be looking for an authentic control panel for that thing. Anything else is just going to feel weird to you. Especially if you want to flatten out the control panel.

+1.  It's not like it's an uncommon cab.  You can a find a Dynamo control panel for sure.  (Whether it's swiss chees or not is another topic).

Sounds to me like you are set on a 4 player setup.  If that's the case, this is not the cabinet for you.  Find a bigger, wider Midway cabinet instead.  If you're still stuck on using this cab.  Keep the CP two player and grab some USB controllers for players 3 & 4.

DeL

[opt2not]

holy ---fudgesicle--- that CP is massive. Please OP, don't follow this aircraft carrier design. I haven't seen an abomination like this since the earlier days of Mame cabs. Throw some lightning bolt vinyl on that thing and it's for sure a throwback to the "dark days".

It's not April 1st, right? This can't be real.

[Malenko]

holy ---fudgesicle--- that CP is massive. Please OP, don't follow this aircraft carrier design. I haven't seen an abomination like this since the earlier days of Mame cabs. Throw some lightning bolt vinyl on that thing and it's for sure a throwback to the "dark days".

It's not April 1st, right? This can't be real.

look at this piece of ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---: