2005 Golden tee fore! Boot up help

[ed12]

if the green leds are blinking then the board has gone past chk-sum and wats to go to game mode.
are there jumpers on your hard drive ?
if so remove/rewipe/fill sectors with 00's
and then re run chdman
see if that helps ?
if not u are in luck i am working green/red boards right now

ed

[dlaventu]

I'm pretty sure the problem is with the HDD so I will try what you propose with the 5 HDD I have. It will take some time to wipe and zero the drives, but I guess I have nothing to loose by trying that. I should have time tomorrow after work.

Thanks again, your help is really appreciated.

[ed12]

 u only need to 1 to be cleaned off and set the way i explained to u
this will tell me 90% of the info
+ what size drives are these ?  just need a few facts

ed

[dlaventu]

The drives are all 40GB like the one that was in the cab.
I did clean one drive before chdman already in my previous tests. Perhaps I have a damaged drive so I will test another one to be sure, the drives are old IDE found in old PCs, I don't know how reliable they are. I should test them for bad sectors too while I'm at it.

[ed12]

yes i do the same
mini allows for a wipe then surface test (scan) we want to use a good clean drive for this
no format no diskmgmt.msc to ready it
then we just run chdman onto it
should give us a clean and ready to boot drive.
i do not even use the jumpers for cs/m/sl mode
or size limt shorting blocks
as i have seen a good 2.09 boot them jumper less

ed

[dlaventu]

So I clean the drive and did a surface test before and after without error.
chdman the image to the disk and tried it. Same thing append, won't boot.
I waited 15 minutes and the partition check didn't pass 0.

I'm wiping another drive right now to test a second drive.

[ed12]

ok
i think u might have another problem
but give that a test
will be on/off for few hours yet

ed

[dlaventu]

same thing with the other drive.
I'm verifying my chd files, I don't remember if I checked that first before writing them with chdman.

[ed12]

u said u bought a 2.09 right ?
can u read it ?
if not do u have the older 1 ?
u see some times the socket goes bad 80% of the time as a matter of numbers
it is a token rule we replce the socket.
u have to understnd the boot process to these boards
1=status1/2 blink once >>reset<<
2=status 2 blinks for about 5 blinks well status 1 is solid >>post boot<<
3=status 1 starts to blink in time with status 2 >>chk-sum-pass perceed to boot<<
4=red ide light starts to go solid and blink
durning this time u see the first video screen (board/rom-build-game-mfg-egale)
then u see the harddrive getting loaded and (polled),thus on screen u see chking file sector 1/2 and sometimes 3
then u see voltage ok/bad,if ok u see it say build id (u53 getting polled for game id)
if that passes it says to u loading game
that sir is the exact process
with this imfomation u can deduce where to look
i am going to pint to u15 (game boot rom),and as u bought it from flebay,that even rasies the thought higher
so in short if u can read it ? i can send u the exact egale 2.09 to compare it to

ed

[dlaventu]

I didn't get the chip on ebay, I got it from hobbyroms here in canada.
I send him the eagle boot 2.09 you post in another thread and the one from MAME (they were the same).
He check the rom everything was ok. The rom even pass the checksum in the diagnostic test (when i start with start button pressed).

I'll check the boot process to see if I get what you explain.

I will also try again with the old rom (1.06).

[ed12]

1.06 should go past boot with a 40gig drive (it just fits),might need to be a tad larger
let me what i have for higher revs,i do not know if 2.04 will work for gt? if they do ?
i can send u 1 free

ed

[dlaventu]

Well the 1.06 did exactly the same thing. The boot process seems correct, status 2 blink less than 5 times before ide led start but ide led stop after one full blink and I get the filesystem error message on screen.

I'm lost

[ed12]

do u know how to solder ?
if so replace u15 socket
what i am trying to aviod here, is telling u the worest news there is
so for a dollar or 2 and 30 minuites of time
we replace the socket
test with 2.09 once again (once socket is replaced)
and btw i have replaced a boot load of theres and another (god's) rom's


ed

[dlaventu]

Yes I do, I did that on another board to replace a broken driver for a starwars pinball DMD.

I checked the socket when I switched to 1.06 and I saw some kind of corrosion on one of the leg in the socket, so that could indeed be part of the problem.

[dlaventu]

So I changed the socket with a new one, tested the signal and restarted the cab with 1.06 and 2.09. Same thing with the ide activity led...

[ed12]

ok now we are getting some where
here what i would do
chk u20/23/24 for water damage
or any damage for that matter.
these 3 chips are your u2 to ide interface buffers
now do u own a digital probe ? or a scope ?
if u can do i can help u debug the stuck ide line

ed

[dlaventu]

I don't own one, but I could try to find someone who has one. The board is clean, I don't see any damage.

[ed12]

without hooking the board up to a scope or tracer
the best i can tell u is either the ide buffers/swichs are stuck/burnt out (burnt out is common)because ppl will hook the ide up backwards.
or your u2 is shot 50% there,there has been alot of u2 failures as of late
which lends its self to a ton of problems.
if u2 is shot u are holding a small paper weight (u can not get the chip anymore) as exlinx no longer makes spartan 2-3 chip sets
if the buffers are shot u can get them and rework the board
get ready for alot of work

ed

[dlaventu]

Sadly, I think you're right. Sounds like I will be looking for another board soon

[ed12]

well sadly i tend to agree with u
now when u do go to buy 1
do yourself a favour
do not buy it from ebay
the reason is simple (these boards) and there age do not lend themselfs to shock very well (inculdes handling)
+ make sure it is a working board,i never sell a board out right it is exchange and i let the coustmer see it working
so there is never a question of my work.

ed

[dlaventu]

Does this work as a digital probe?

It's a digital multimeter with Logic test option for CMOS/TTL.

[ed12]

yes

ed

[dlaventu]

Cool! how do I proceed to check the IDE line with that ?

[ed12]

once u get it
i will explain
right now it would not make any sense to u
just beening fair

ed

[dlaventu]

I have it, it's on my desk right now!
But I'm not at home 

[ed12]

ok the next few posts get real tec...i mean deep
u will be probing control lines :ie: interupt/ce/add/data to and from
it is the only way to find out if the interface's and or u2 are bad
u will need to hook to steady +5 volts dc and ground
then make sure your probe is set to pluse- ttl/cmos
strap on your boots real tight

ed

[dlaventu]

I won't be able to check this tonight, but perhaps tomorrow night.

I'm a tech guy so I love to learn some new things! I'm a computer and hardware wiz, but not so in electronics (basic understanding).

Thanks for taking the time to help!

[dlaventu]

I should be able to check that now, can you tell me what I need to do first with the probe ?

[ed12]

spec me the model /mfg of the probe
this way i can do it right

ed

[dlaventu]

I'm sure that it is very old!

It's a Voltcraft 90s by Hyobon.

[ed12]

well that is interesting
dose this unit have a battery ?
if so then the wire u see at the back is a ground clip right ?
if so we should be good to go for testing

ed

[dlaventu]

Yes it has a battery and the cable is indeed for ground. I borrowed it from a friend who is a genius in electronics (30 years+ exp)! He could eventually help me if I'm unable to diagnose this problem with your help.

[ed12]

hi
that is great and your buddy there will not hurt
but if the battery is good
we can do a fast test to get u going with the probe
hook the ground wire to a solid ground point
and boot the board
then probe in ttl/cmos test (so it beeb) pin 1 then pin 19 of u56-u58
if u get a pulse light ? then the probe will do
u may also get a straight green and or red light
they do mean different things but lets test

ed

[dlaventu]

I had to connect a new cable to get 5v and ground for the logic probe to work.

Here's the results:

U56 pin 1 no light 3.3v
U56 pin 19 High (red light logic 1) 4.5v

Same thing for U58

[ed12]

boy your in luck tonight as i am doing green boards

no blinking light = no logic control
i want u to try here next
chips u23/u24 pins # 1 and 19 again
what i am looking for is a blinking light
now these 3 chips ar your ide interface
no blinking means no logic clocking

ed

[dlaventu]

U23 pin 1 Low (Flash in sync with the blinking error message on screen) 2.5V
U23 pin 19 Low (not blinking) vary between 115mV and 138mV

U24 pin 1 Same thing as U23
U 24 pin 19 Low (not blinking) vary between 140mV and 151mV

[ed12]

ok part of it is getting clock toggle
see attached pdf
that is your ide control line input
i will get u the routing for u20
but right now it is not looking good

ed

[dlaventu]

I found that 2 legs from U2 don't connect to U23.

U2 pin 94 does not connect to U23 pin 6.
U2 pin 95 does not connect to U23 pin 5.

Corrosion on U2 pins, I will try to jump to see if it helps.

[ed12]

Corrosion on U2 pins ?
which pins ?
and go very careful
with the corrosion,,,as the legs will be very weak
and they are hard to replant do to the fact it is .040 micron spacing
go easy

ed

[dlaventu]

94 and 95 where disconnected from the board caused by corrosion, I lifted them carefully with a scalpel and I will jump them to U23 and secure them with hot glue when all this is finished. But it will have to wait until tomorrow night I'm short of tin...