Additional wires for led buttons?

[peeg]

Hi guys,

I'm on my first build and kind of lost at this point, hoping you can guide me in the right direction.

I'm about to order some led buttons from ebay here : http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-White-5v-LED-Illuminated-Arcade-Push-Button-with-Microswitch-for-Mame-Game-/262547760894?hash=item3d2110e6fe

It says I need :

Wiring Information:
These buttons require 4.8mm crimped wires for connection.
1 wire for ground connection (CO) and 1 wire for signal connection (NO).
These buttons require 6.3mm crimped wires for illuminating.
1 wire for the positive connection and 1 wire for the negative connection

I have the Xin Mo with I think the following :


7 x 4 wired .187 Quick connects for Signal inputs
1 x 2 wired .187 Quick connect for Signal inputs
2 x Ground Daisy Chains with 16 wired .187 Quick connects.


Do I need to buy any additional wires for the lights? If so, are they speciality wires, or can I order from like a local.. like wire shop or something? DIY Superstore type place?

Kinda stumped! Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[PL1]

I'm on my first build and kind of lost at this point, hoping you can guide me in the right direction.

Based on the buttons linked below, you appear to be going with single-color LEDs, not RGB.

Are you trying for:
  1. Always-on. (easy)
  2. LED controller board. (medium difficulty)

I'm about to order some led buttons from ebay here : http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-White-5v-LED-Illuminated-Arcade-Push-Button-with-Microswitch-for-Mame-Game-/262547760894?hash=item3d2110e6fe

There are two separate circuits -- button press and lighting.

The button press is handled by the 0.187" QD wiring that came with the Xin-Mo. (NO and COM tabs on the microswitch)

Lighting is powered by 0.250" QD wiring connected to the "saddle stirrup" tabs.

This pic shows "always-on" wiring using 0.250" daisy-chains -- black chain connects to ground, red chain connects to 5v.



You can either buy pre-fabbed daisy-chains (GGG, Paradise Arcade Shop, etc.) or "roll your own" with 22-24 AWG STRANDED wire and 0.250" crimp QDs.

Ratcheting crimpers are your friend.  Solid core wire is not. (Did I mention that you really should use stranded wire for this application?)

You can get the power from the computer PSU molex (recommended), use a "wall wart" 5v power supply, or (possibly) a USB cable.

LEDs draw about 20mA each, so make sure you aren't drawing too much current for the "wall wart" or USB. (USB spec is 100 mA per unpowered hub port/500 mA per motherboard header IIRC)


Scott

[peeg]

Thanks Scott.

I understood some of that. 

I'm outside the US so to save on shipping I'll likely have a go and do my own. I'll have a look for some of this wire and the metal bits (QDs? - what does this stand for? Is there a common universal term for them? The places I'll get wire and stuff don't speak much English so I'll probably have to translate and stuff a bit with Google :/ ).

The 4.8mm and 6.3mm equate to 0.187 and 0.250 yep?

I'd like the leds to light when pressed unless it's a lot of hassle for a first build, otherwise I'll go for always on, if i need extra boards and stuff I'll have a go on another build maybe to keep the costs down for this one as the tester.

[Titchgamer]

QD stands for quick disconnect, Also called Spade Crimps.

[PL1]

I'm outside the US so to save on shipping I'll likely have a go and do my own. I'll have a look for some of this wire and the metal bits (QDs? - what does this stand for? Is there a common universal term for them? The places I'll get wire and stuff don't speak much English so I'll probably have to translate and stuff a bit with Google :/ ).

QD's are Quick Disconnects.  Remember this picture from your other thread? (female 0.187" QDs on the right)   


Here's a plug-and-play option on your side of the pond.
https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/daisy-chain-wiring-set-with-molex-for-illuminated-buttons.html

The 4.8mm and 6.3mm equate to 0.187 and 0.250 yep?

Yep.

I'd like the leds to light when pressed unless it's a lot of hassle for a first build, otherwise I'll go for always on, if i need extra boards and stuff I'll have a go on another build maybe to keep the costs down for this one as the tester.

The wiring would be more complex for "light when pressed" since you'd be combining the lighting and button circuits.

LED 5v___LED___
                           |     Microswitch
Encoder Input ___|____/ ________Dasy-Chain Grounds for both Encoder and LED

The part in red would consist of a 0.250" female QD (connects to the LED - "stirrup"), a 0.187" male QD (plugs into the Xin-Mo encoder input QD), and a female 0.187" QD. (connects to the NO tab on the microswitch)


Scott

[Titchgamer]

Just to add think you will find light on push will drive you nuts and distract you when playing a game.
Better to have them on constantly IMO

[peeg]

Awesome guys, much appreciated. 

I'll stick with the always on buttons for now and see how they turn out.

For the molex, any particular one I need there? Just pick up a single molex/white thingy and then wire the daisy chained led wires into it - one into the 5v hole and one into the ground, and connect to PSU molex?

[PL1]

You should be able to find an inexpensive molex splitter or extender cable with a molex female connector.



Use either butt splice crimps . . .



. . . or a euro-style terminal strip to easily connect the red/black molex wires to the 5v/ground daisy-chain wires -- you can cut the strip to size.




Scott
P.S. Different color crimps are for different size wires.
Red is for 18-22 AWG wire.
Blue (14-18 AWG) and yellow (10-12 AWG) crimps are too large for this.

[peeg]

Legend, thank you!