Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up Try the site in https mode Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

  

Author Topic: Cab almost done. I got an amp and now I just need two "regular" speakers. Help!  (Read 4815 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

DaddyLongLegs

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 257
  • Last login:October 11, 2021, 02:23:36 pm
Hello! I bought a gutted TMNT 1 arcade machine. It was painted black by the previous owner, and the control panel was converted to like 5 different games before it made its way to me. I am almost done completely restoring it back to a TMNT cabinet, except it will be a MAME machine internally. Original sideart, original CP artwork, marquee, all that.

Since it is going to be a MAME cabinet though, I wanted it to be in stereo. I understand that not a lot of arcade games are stereo, but I would like to have all my bases covered. Not to mention, I've heard it isn't a good idea to run everything to one speaker from a PC for whatever reason.

Unfortunately since TMNT 1 was mono, there is only one speaker "hole" (it's a very cool cutout of "lines"in the wood that Konami did to this and The Simpsons cabs). Unfortunately I will never be able to replicate how they made the speaker "hole" (I can't imagine how they got it that perfect looking) so I will have to cut new holes on the sides for two speakers and then buy plain grills for them. If anyone has any ideas on a better way to "mount" them, please feel free to share. I really do wish I could use the stock "cutout/grill" that Konami made, but like I said it's not The Simpsons so it only has one of them in the middle instead of 2. Nobody sells just the Simpsons speaker piece of wood slab that I am aware of.

I don't even care so much about the new speakers making the sound quality better (though that will be a nice benefit); I care mostly about hearing both left and right channels. In a crazy moment, I thought maybe someone has even made a "dual Left and Right single speaker". Like a 6" speaker that is cut in half and has both L and R channels built into one speaker :) I'd be so happy with that but sadly it does not exist.

The stock TMNT arcade speaker is 6", believe it or not (I was very surprised because machines usually are 4" or smaller). So I would prefer speakers that are 6", if possible. The original speaker says it is 8 ohm on it, but I am not sure that is important (but someone please correct me if I am wrong). Supposedly 4 ohm isn't used in arcade cabinets much because the amps can't handle it. Is that true? This is the amp I bought. Would it be able to handle two 4ohm speakers? Or should I stick to 8ohm to be safe?

Looking for speakers to finally finish this cab has brought to light how little I know about them. I just want a "regular" speaker but it seems like parts-express (and others) call them by so many different names. Woofers? Is that what I want? I always thought that was just slang for "subwoofer". It appears as though "woofer" is just a regular speaker and would be good for all types of audio/music? But then I also see the term "midrange"; is that any different?

The speakers in my car sound very nice and I do not have tweeters or a subwoofer. Is there any reason I can't use 6" round car speakers? The only thing turning me off to them is they are always so goofy looking. I want them to be plain black, and have plain black grills. This is VERY hard to find while researching car speakers. Another issue with car speakers is I believe none of them are shielded. I need the speakers to be shielded because I am using a genuine Wells Gardner CRT.

Sorry for the long post, but I have researched for the better part of 10 hours now and I am even more confused than before I started. I really would appreciate anybody's input on my plethora of questions here.
« Last Edit: November 15, 2016, 08:17:53 am by DaddyLongLegs »

n3wt0n

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 540
  • Last login:July 12, 2025, 09:56:52 am
I typically use a set of computer speakers in mame cabs because the amp and everything is done but you are looking for a full range speaker - your amp can handle 4-8 ohm speakers but I don't know what everyone on here is using for speakers. Can I make a suggestion for the placement though? How about making something as simple as a wooden triangle with a speaker mounted on the left and right side pointing towards the original speaker hole? That would give you stereo speakers and stop you from having to make a new panel with bonus points for keeping the impressive original panel intact. Horribly quick drawing of what I mean included for free.  ;D


Mike A

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5906
  • Last login:Yesterday at 12:57:11 pm
  • This plan is foolproof
I wouldn't worry about stereo in an arcade cab. They two speakers would be too close together to get good stereo separation. Just set your computer audio to mix the stereo signal into 1 channel. Buy a small amp and use it to push 1 speaker.

DaddyLongLegs

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 257
  • Last login:October 11, 2021, 02:23:36 pm
I wouldn't worry about stereo in an arcade cab. They two speakers would be too close together to get good stereo separation. Just set your computer audio to mix the stereo signal into 1 channel. Buy a small amp and use it to push 1 speaker.

I am actually not at all concerned about stereo separation. It was more that I don't want sounds to be "missing" in games that expect stereo, and for some reason people said mixing the stereo signal to 1 channel is a bad idea for some reason or another (I think some even said it can be dangerous??).

I typically use a set of computer speakers in mame cabs because the amp and everything is done but you are looking for a full range speaker - your amp can handle 4-8 ohm speakers but I don't know what everyone on here is using for speakers. Can I make a suggestion for the placement though? How about making something as simple as a wooden triangle with a speaker mounted on the left and right side pointing towards the original speaker hole? That would give you stereo speakers and stop you from having to make a new panel with bonus points for keeping the impressive original panel intact. Horribly quick drawing of what I mean included for free.  ;D



Yeah I am not going to use computer speakers because I already bought a nice little amp but holy cow, your idea is brilliant!! I am going to do EXACTLY that!! Thank you SO, SO much!

I was actually looking if 6"x3" speakers actually existed so I could put them next to each other and somehow your idea never came to me. Thank you again! No new speaker holes needed!! :)

Now I just need to find out which speakers to buy :D
« Last Edit: November 15, 2016, 09:05:18 am by DaddyLongLegs »

Mike A

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5906
  • Last login:Yesterday at 12:57:11 pm
  • This plan is foolproof
Setting windows to mix two channels into 1 is not dangerous. It is done in software. That way you won't be missing any of the audio output. You really should try reading up on how that all works. It will make things easier for you. :cheers:

BadMouth

  • Trade Count: (+6)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9272
  • Last login:Today at 06:10:53 am
  • ...
Setting windows to mix two channels into 1 is not dangerous. It is done in software. That way you won't be missing any of the audio output. You really should try reading up on how that all works. It will make things easier for you. :cheers:

+1,   I'd just run mono.  Most small cheap amps that people use in arcade cabs can't be bridged to mono though.  One channel would probably still have plenty of power for an arcade cab.

However, if you want to blow some money they do make speakers with dual tweeters and a dual voicecoil woofer which can handle both channels.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=single+stereo+speaker
The Yamaha one sounds awesome in my bathroom.   ;D

DaddyLongLegs

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 257
  • Last login:October 11, 2021, 02:23:36 pm
Setting windows to mix two channels into 1 is not dangerous. It is done in software. That way you won't be missing any of the audio output. You really should try reading up on how that all works. It will make things easier for you. :cheers:

+1,   I'd just run mono.  Most small cheap amps that people use in arcade cabs can't be bridged to mono though.  One channel would probably still have plenty of power for an arcade cab.

However, if you want to blow some money they do make speakers with dual tweeters and a dual voicecoil woofer which can handle both channels.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=single+stereo+speaker
The Yamaha one sounds awesome in my bathroom.   ;D

Wow, that is amazing. Then I would be able to just pop one of those in! I did not know there was such a thing as a single speaker that is stereo. Thank you so much!

I am looking at ones on your link, but I am not sure any would be easy replacements. Here is the stock one from the TMNT cab:



Now I am no genius but I am assuming that's a 6" speaker? Only reason I am doubting myself is because 6" speakers are almost impossible to find. Or maybe I am just measuring wrong?

BadMouth

  • Trade Count: (+6)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9272
  • Last login:Today at 06:10:53 am
  • ...
The only direct replacement speakers you will find for that one are going to be bare drivers meant to replace blown speakers in home audio cabinets.
...and they aren't going to have a tweeter for the highs or be dual voice coil.

Your best bet is to use a 6.5" and make some new screw holes.

I haven't messed with a Konami cabinet. 
I'm assuming it's just screwed in there and there aren't mounting posts sticking up.

There are some 5.25" speakers available.  They are off brands which is fine for this application, but they aren't going to sound as full as the 6.5"
Example: https://www.amazon.com/America-M-SR5D-Voice-ceiling-Speakers/dp/B000246TOU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479234638&sr=8-1&keywords=M-SR5D

Also keep in mind that you might have to make a spacer for the front depending on how far the tweeters stick out and how the front of the speaker is designed.


My personal choice would be:
https://www.amazon.com/OSD-Audio-ICE640TT-6-5-inch-Polypropylene/dp/B001VNOY84/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1479234380&sr=8-14&keywords=single+stereo+speaker
because the price is reasonable and it has silk dome tweeters instead of cheap mylar ones.
Expect to do some custom work to get it installed though.  It's not going to be a drop in replacement.

EDIT: You could just cut a hole out in the cab and use the ceiling mount tabs as they were meant to be used.  >:D

« Last Edit: November 15, 2016, 01:47:48 pm by BadMouth »

DaddyLongLegs

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 257
  • Last login:October 11, 2021, 02:23:36 pm
The only direct replacement speakers you will find for that one are going to be bare drivers meant to replace blown speakers in home audio cabinets.
...and they aren't going to have a tweeter for the highs or be dual voice coil.

Your best bet is to use a 6.5" and make some new screw holes.

I haven't messed with a Konami cabinet. 
I'm assuming it's just screwed in there and there aren't mounting posts sticking up.

There are some 5.25" speakers available.  They are off brands which is fine for this application, but they aren't going to sound as full as the 6.5"
Example: https://www.amazon.com/America-M-SR5D-Voice-ceiling-Speakers/dp/B000246TOU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479234638&sr=8-1&keywords=M-SR5D

Also keep in mind that you might have to make a spacer for the front depending on how far the tweeters stick out and how the front of the speaker is designed.


My personal choice would be:
https://www.amazon.com/OSD-Audio-ICE640TT-6-5-inch-Polypropylene/dp/B001VNOY84/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1479234380&sr=8-14&keywords=single+stereo+speaker
because the price is reasonable and it has silk dome tweeters instead of cheap mylar ones.

The Konami cab does in fact have mounting posts; it's not just screwed in which is why I was trying to get 6" exactly.

I do like the one you linked however I need them to be plain black, because it is going to look terrible with bright gold sticking out of the speaker hole in the machine.

Another problem I now face is that ceiling speakers do not appear to be shielded. I am using a legitimate WG CRT and I would be devastated if I got discoloration in the monitor.

I know I am getting way to specific with my needs (stereo single speaker, all black in color, and shielded) but I am not sure what other option I could have.

Mike A

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5906
  • Last login:Yesterday at 12:57:11 pm
  • This plan is foolproof
MONO SPEAKER. Shielding is unnecessary. Set your PC to mono. You are making this complicated and expensive. I bought a 6x9 for like 18 dollars. I would have gone smaller, but I scratch built a Burgertime Cab. They had a 6x9 speaker. It sounds great. It can get loud enough to melt your face if you choose.

yotsuya

  • Trade Count: (+21)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 19960
  • Last login:July 27, 2025, 08:34:04 pm
  • 2014 UCA Winner, 2014, 2015, 2016 ZapCon Winner
    • forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137636.msg1420628.html
MONO SPEAKER. Shielding is unnecessary. Set your PC to mono. You are making this complicated and expensive. I bought a 6x9 for like 18 dollars. I would have gone smaller, but I scratch built a Burgertime Cab. They had a 6x9 speaker. It sounds great. It can get loud enough to melt your face if you choose.
Mike A speaks the truth...
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

Mike A

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5906
  • Last login:Yesterday at 12:57:11 pm
  • This plan is foolproof
I speak from knowledge gained on this site. I stand on the shoulders of giants. ;D

BadMouth

  • Trade Count: (+6)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9272
  • Last login:Today at 06:10:53 am
  • ...
I am looking at ones on your link, but I am not sure any would be easy replacements. Here is the stock one from the TMNT cab:



Now I am no genius but I am assuming that's a 6" speaker? Only reason I am doubting myself is because 6" speakers are almost impossible to find. Or maybe I am just measuring wrong?

Going by the bolt pattern it looks like a 5.25" speaker to me, but like I said...no personal experience with a konami cab.
If any of your friends are into old cars or car audio, ask if they have any 5.25" speakers laying around to try.
If the bolt holes line up, most 5.25 car speakers would work.  One of those 5.25" ceiling speakers removed from it's ceiling mount would.
Again you might have to make a spacer for it if the tweeters protrude too much.

wasted0101

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 11
  • Last login:May 01, 2021, 02:29:55 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Try looking through https://www.parts-express.com. They have a ton of stuff and are very cost effective.

DaddyLongLegs

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 257
  • Last login:October 11, 2021, 02:23:36 pm
Try looking through https://www.parts-express.com. They have a ton of stuff and are very cost effective.

Thanks. What should I buy? Two "woofers" and that's it?

n3wt0n

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 540
  • Last login:July 12, 2025, 09:56:52 am
No. Not a woofer. A woofer is designed to play bass only.

Mike A

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5906
  • Last login:Yesterday at 12:57:11 pm
  • This plan is foolproof
You really need to do some basic reading on the subject. Asking questions is great, but at some point you need to know the difference between a woofer and a full range speaker. Everyone has to start somewhere. This is not a criticism.

DaddyLongLegs

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 257
  • Last login:October 11, 2021, 02:23:36 pm
I actually read up a lot on it; I spent probably 5 or 6 hours now doing so. I was under the impression a subwoofer was for the bass, and a woofer was for "just the mids but will do all sounds fine".

I find it hard to believe the cheap looking speaker that was in this TMNT cab was a full range? If not, what was it? A woofer? A mid-range?

wasted0101

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 11
  • Last login:May 01, 2021, 02:29:55 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
I would agree, the TMNT speaker was not full range, I would classify it a mid. If you are looking for a full range speaker I would look at this part of the site. https://www.parts-express.com/cat/dash-door-deck-car-speakers/390. You might also have to look into making or buying a speaker ring in order to be able to mount it behind the original bezel .http://www.ebay.com/bhp/speaker-spacer

Mike A

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5906
  • Last login:Yesterday at 12:57:11 pm
  • This plan is foolproof

j.fitzenr

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 150
  • Last login:August 28, 2018, 05:07:01 pm
  • Don't Afraid to be Great
The terms "woofer" and "subwoofer" and "tweeter" and all that are from my experience a bit arbitrary and confusing.  You might have a 4" 'woofer' in a set of computer studio monitors that handles down to 80-100hz in that set, whereas in a large PA installation a speaker twice that size might only be handling the upper/mid range.   Generally in these systems they have 'crossovers' built in that send only certain frequencies to certain speakers: often the speakers could theoretically handle a significantly wider range than that, but at a cost of efficiency and clarity.

But long story short, unless you're doing an audio-centric build (beatmania!) you're going to want one (or if you're hell bent on stereo) two "full-range" speakers for the most relatively accurate/general use.  The car-speaker shout is a good one, it's probably the most common way to find relatively small, easy to mount full-range speakers out there.  Most pro-audio or consumer grade stuff in that size is designed to be part of a significantly larger array of speakers/drivers, but the car audio stuff is nicely self contained.



« Last Edit: November 18, 2016, 01:29:26 pm by j.fitzenr »

lilshawn

  • Trade Count: (+3)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7514
  • Last login:Yesterday at 06:58:44 pm
  • I break stuff...then fix it...sometimes
The terms "woofer" and "subwoofer" and "tweeter" are more of a description of what the speaker's JOB is than what it is capable of.

moreso, how that speaker is designed will have a direct bearing on how it performs in that job.

A 4 inch speaker can perform well as a "woofer" with the inclusion of extra "excursion" (speaker cone movement) so that it performs quite well in it's role as a woofer.

a 5 inch speaker can perform well as a "tweeter" with the addition of a "whizzer" cone. (but more designated as a "full-range" speaker in this scenario.) but this helps in reproduction of high frequencies.

a cheapy 4 or 5 inch full range speaker will be plenty good to play your beep boops.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2pcs-2-5-inch-4-Ohm-15-W-Full-range-speakers-top-HIFI-digital-speaker-tube/32655461462.html

DaddyLongLegs

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 257
  • Last login:October 11, 2021, 02:23:36 pm
Thanks for all the replies, everybody. Is shielding recommended? I don't want to mess this CRT up. Especially if I end up going for two 6" speakers. Interestingly, "bucking magnets" are supposed to be what you use to shield speakers, but I can't find any place to buy them; not even ebay for some strange reason!

Mike A

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5906
  • Last login:Yesterday at 12:57:11 pm
  • This plan is foolproof
I gave you the link. Buy the speaker. You are overthinking this.

yotsuya

  • Trade Count: (+21)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 19960
  • Last login:July 27, 2025, 08:34:04 pm
  • 2014 UCA Winner, 2014, 2015, 2016 ZapCon Winner
    • forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137636.msg1420628.html
I gave you the link. Buy the speaker. You are overthinking this.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

Mike A

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5906
  • Last login:Yesterday at 12:57:11 pm
  • This plan is foolproof
I don't want to be a jerk to the OP. I have been there. The internet sometimes contains too much information. It can be easy to get lost in detail. All you need is a 2 way or 3 way speaker that fits. If it costs more than twenty bucks you are spending too much. If you don't like my link, go to Amazon.

lilshawn

  • Trade Count: (+3)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7514
  • Last login:Yesterday at 06:58:44 pm
  • I break stuff...then fix it...sometimes
literally.

the original cabinet has no fancy buck magnets or whatever in the speakers...gonna be paranoid about it? buy a "shielded speaker" or simply place a metal cup from the dollar store over the magnet. too much info overload there man. just wing it. if it works, cool, if not, change it.

yotsuya

  • Trade Count: (+21)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 19960
  • Last login:July 27, 2025, 08:34:04 pm
  • 2014 UCA Winner, 2014, 2015, 2016 ZapCon Winner
    • forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137636.msg1420628.html
I don't want to be a jerk to the OP. I have been there. The internet sometimes contains too much information. It can be easy to get lost in detail. All you need is a 2 way or 3 way speaker that fits. If it costs more than twenty bucks you are spending too much. If you don't like my link, go to Amazon.
I think you've been very patient and have given out great advice.  I used to be like you,  too. :cheers:
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

tsaylor

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 94
  • Last login:April 20, 2019, 05:16:20 pm
In my case I wanted to also be able to play/stream music and have it sound good, so I opted for an inexpensive combo set of car speakers (two 6" speakers and two small tweeters). A sub would have been nice too but I was trying to keep it inexpensive. Spent around $50 for the set, widened the original hole a little with a jigsaw (granted, not great stereo separation), and then mounted the tweeters in the upper inner corners, pointed towards the player.

It's overkill, but since I had added an amp already I wanted it to sound nice.