Custom 4 Player Arcade Cabinet (Dark TMNT Theme)

[dgrace]

Since Fall of 2014 I’ve had the goal to build my own 4 player arcade cabinet.  Since then i've been mainly focused on first, perfecting my front end, adding games, creating themes (Photoshop is complicated, but awesome).  I use Hyperspin (which is amazing btw). I think Maximus Arcade and LaunchBox are also cool but my heart belongs to Hyperspin (I guess, to each their own, right?).  Even though Hyperspin is literally a never-ending project I feel like I’m finally ready to move on the next step; building my arcade cabinet.  I first looked at DYI options like Recroommasters, because, you know, if it aint broke.  And even though I think Recroommasters has some great products/options at super reasonable prices, it just didn't have everything I truly wanted for my dream arcade.  They do have a 4 player CP but I didn't like the lack of space between each joystick and I feel the buttons are a bit far apart.  I also wanted pinball side buttons and a pinball plunger (for virtual pinball games) which would have been tough with their CP layout.  Again, not a knock on Recroommasters, just not exactly what I was looking for.

My biggest challenge was going to be the woodworking; because I know my strengths and weaknesses, and that is definitely not one of them.  Luckily for me, my bro-in-law is super handy and has been helping me (see pics below). 

INSPIRATION:
Pauly’s Ready Player One Arcade cabinet.  He has been a huge help and I can’t thank him enough. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=146068.0
Paradox Arcades (great arcade cabinets and ideas; if you have the money I would definitely recommend them).   You get what you pay for, right?

GOALS:
Set Up Hyperspin Front End (pretty dang close)
Design a 4 player Arcade Cabinet with dark Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Themed graphics (haven’t figured out who I will have do the graphics)
4 Joysticks, 1 Trackball, 1 Pinball Plunger, 2 pinball side buttons, 4 Admin buttons (Exit, Start, Pause & Menu) and 7 buttons for Players 1 & 2, 4 for Players 3 & 4
2 Aimtrak Light Guns with recoil (haven’t decided on holsters yet)
Make it BLINKY (with LED Blinky)
2 or 4 player coin door (haven’t decided yet).
Add 2 Nuetrik USB connectors at the bottom of control panel.  Will also need an input for my Aimtrak Light Gun power supply cord (any ideas?)


PARTS LIST (will add as I go)
•   (1) 4'x8' 3/4" MDF Board (or HDF or Plywood)
•   Jig Saw
•   Hand Drill
•   Router & Plunge Router with flush trim bit
•   Table saw
•   Wood Glue
•   Wood Filler
•   Wood Screws (1.25)
•   Cabinet Hinges
•   Pencil
•   Some sort of measuring tools (Tape / Ruler / Level - your choice)
•   Oil based Primer (See if you can get it in black)
•   Black Paint (I went with a semi-gloss)
•   Orbital Sander
•   Clamps
•   Slot Cutter for T-Molding
•   T-Molding 
•   (1) Ultimarc Ipac 4 Interface
•   (2) PacLED64 (from Ultimarc)
•   (4) Joysticks from Paradise Arcade
•   (32) Concave Translucent Buttons
•   (4) Player Buttons –White
•   (52) Microswitches (4 for each joystick, 1 for each button)
•   (32) RGB Button LEDs (from Paradise Arcade)
•   (1) UTrak Trackball
•   (1) UTrak Trackball LEDs

I am super new to this so any ideas, constructive feedback or suggestions are greatly appreciated and welcomed.

[yotsuya]

Let me guess.... aircraft carrier panel? Your image link is broken.

[dgrace]

Yes, I attached the control panel layout.

[yotsuya]

Interested to see the artwork. Good luck with the build! 

[n3wt0n]

If it is like Ready Player One, this should be a great cabinet. I like the dark TMNT theme in theory and look forward to seeing what you have put together.

[dgrace]

I'm sure this is probably a stupid question but how do you post pictures? When I try to attach a pic it tells me that the size of the pic is too large. Copy and pasting the pic right on my message doesn't work either. I'm trying to post pics of what I've done so far and no luck.  Please help.

[dgrace]

Control Panel Pieces


Top CP button holes cut out


Joystick cutout and mounted (that was a pain in the ass.  Used a plunge router)

[yotsuya]

Broken pic.

[dgrace]

Sorry, struggling to get imgur to work so I can post pics

[dgrace]

Arcade parts and wires.  This should be fun.

[yotsuya]

More broken pics.

[Pauly]

Pics are showing up for me. Looking good so far! 

[yotsuya]

They show up NOW....

[dgrace]

I’m finally almost done with my Control Panel but wanted to add a couple last minute touches.  I bought two Neutrik USB connectors for my Aimtrak light guns to be able to connect on the outside of the CP (probably at the bottom of the front side of the CP) and also have 2 power supplies for the recoil.  But I’m not sure how to connect the power supply through the CP, like I would the USB input.  I would like some kind of output faceplate of some kind for the recoil power supply cable to connect through.  I don’t know if I just drill a hole and attach some kind of nut or washer for the Aimtrak power supply cord to connect to?  Any ideas are greatly appreciated. 

[dgrace]

Updates.  Finally done making all the cuts for the joysticks and trackball.  Trackball fit nice and snug.  I decided to do install it flush without the trim (glad I did).  I think it looks nice.  Next up I will drill the holes for the pinball buttons and plunger and wood glue all the pieces together and complete the control panel.

[PL1]

Uh-oh.

Didn't anybody warn you about angled sticks for P3/P4?      

Green = good.  Red = bad.



https://web.archive.org/web/20160809113045/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Orientation

The good news is that your panel isn't fastened or painted yet.


Scott

[dgrace]

Crap! Didn't know about that.  How do I fix that? Is it really that big a deal?

Thanks!

[dgrace]

I top mounted so i'm not sure if and how i could fix that without leaving a huge divot.  I'm going to lay a polycarbonate vinyl over the CP but i imagine divots that big would be noticeable.  Hopefully I didn't screw myself.  Not sure what you mean by fastened??

[PL1]

Is it really that big a deal?

Given the spirited discussions on the topic and the experience of forum members, it certainly can be.

A number of people who thought it was "no big deal" have later posted about re-doing their fully-finished, playable angled-stick panels.

I don't remember anyone ever re-doing a straight-stick panel to angle the sticks.

If you don't want to take the word of the hobbyists on this forum, take the word of the companies that did extensive R&D and play-testing -- all of the successful 4-player games used straight sticks.

The (2 or 3?) cabs that did use angled sticks were not successful/popular.

It comes down to a simple question: When you play, do you watch the stick or the screen?

When you're watching the screen, it's easier to hit the correct direction if the stick is aligned with the screen.

This is true even if your body is not aligned with the screen.

I top mounted so i'm not sure if and how i could fix that without leaving a huge divot.  I'm going to lay a polycarbonate vinyl over the CP but i imagine divots that big would be noticeable.  Hopefully I didn't screw myself. 

I'd re-do the panel using the current panel as a router template for the outer shape and buttons.  YMMV.

To avoid "divots", you may want to consider using a different top-mount method that uses a cover like the example here.

You don't need cutouts for the microswitch tabs if you remove/reinstall the mounting plate.

 

Not sure what you mean by fastened??

Connected to the control panel box using hinges.


Scott

[dgrace]

Yeah, based on what i've read it seems like a personal preference.  Half of what i've read says they prefer the angled 3 and 4 player joysticks and the other half said they regretted it.  Uggghhhh!!!!

The other pickle i'm in is that my bro-in-law has been helping me with the CP woodworking (I'm not very handy) and if I told him, hey we need to start the CP over, he may literally kill me:).  So I may have to just risk it.  I'll test it out today with like a mock set up. 

I mean you're talking only a handful of MAME games and some newer four player PC games (i.e. castle crashers, Jamestown Lost Colony, new Gauntlet, etc.); so maybe like 30 4 player games? I guess if I move forward with the angled 3 and 4 player sticks, and I have someone over playing who isn't liking it, they can just use an Xbox 360 controller instead.  I don't know.  I guess I need to decide before I move forward.

Thanks for your feedback.

[Jakobud]

Crap! Didn't know about that.  How do I fix that? Is it really that big a deal?

Thanks!

yes it is. Games that require your outside joysticks (3 and 4) will be practically unplayable.

[Nephasth]

Moderator posting in a Project Thread posted in the Main Forum...

[PL1]

Moderator posting in a Project Thread posted in the Main Forum...

Fixed.   


Scott

[opt2not]

Yeah, based on what i've read it seems like a personal preference.  Half of what i've read says they prefer the angled 3 and 4 player joysticks and the other half said they regretted it.  Uggghhhh!!!!

Well your first mistake is thinking a fundamental ergonomic interface with these machines is personal preference. Most people who like their sticks angled are those who don't give a crap about how P3 and P4's gaming experience is. They're just "checking off the 4 player task" on the list..."good enough" they say...but most of the time the owners won't even be playing on those sticks, so they don't really care.
But if you're not an ---uvula--- and want people to enjoy their experience on your cab, you wouldn't angle your sticks.

Your second mistake is following that CP shape.  Most noobs think the design is solid, but the functionality is completely flawed because P3 and P4 will get in the way of P1 and P2.  Elbows to buttons and joys is what I'm talking about here.
I don't know why people keep following that design... because it looks cool?  The thing about arcade machines is it isn't just about the looks, it's got to function well with the ergonomic experience. If people aren't comfortable playing, they won't care to play it.

[Ian]

My first cab had angled sticks.... it wasn't fun. I felt so bad that any 4-player game that my friends and I played I insisted I take either player 3 or 4. I got used to it after a while. But there wasn't a day that went by where I just wanted to start over and fix those joysticks...

Since you are in the beginning stages I highly recommend starting over. It's only going to bother you more the longer you have it. It will save you time and effort down the road. 

[Nephasth]

Always test your CP layout on scrap before committing on the final design. Product testing... Something most people overlook.

[dgrace]

Crap! Didn't know about that.  How do I fix that? Is it really that big a deal?

Thanks!

yes it is. Games that require your outside joysticks (3 and 4) will be practically unplayable.

Thanks for your feedback.  I guess I don't understand the difference between having P3 & P4 angled and me just standing next to P3 & P4 with an XBOX 360 controller.  For example, I tested that out last night and with an XBOX 360 controller, and when I wanted to go up, I pushed the left analog toggle towards the direction my body was facing and not toward the screen.  I even tried forcing it toward the screen instead of the direction my body was facing and it didn't feel right.  I then grabbed one of my joysticks and did the same thing, facing it toward the direction my body was facing and then the screen, and pushing it toward the direction my body was facing actually felt more natural.  .  I guess it's a moot point anyway since I am unable to redo my CP.  I guess if someone has issue with it, worst case scenario they can use a 360 controller.  The gentlemen sharing his design with me said he did it angled and that it felt fine to him as well. Again, it sounds like a personal preference

[yotsuya]

A tiny mobile game pad and huge stationary arcade control panel are two different things. But no worries, you're going to do what you want to anyway.

[Mike A]

Yeah. What do the people who designed the original machines know? I am sure they were just guessing when 99.9 percent of them did not angle the sticks.

[lisowskikevin]

Oh geez I feel so bad for this guy.

I totally get not wanting to bug his bro in law but then again I wouldn't want to settle for anything less than ideal given the amount of time and money invested in this project.

Tough spot for sure.

[dgrace]

Thanks everyone for your input and suggestions.  Very informative.

[dgrace]

I’m finally almost done with my Control Panel but wanted to add a couple last minute touches.  I bought two Neutrik USB connectors for my Aimtrak light guns to be able to connect on the outside of the CP (probably at the bottom of the front side of the CP) and also have 2 power supplies for the recoil.  But I’m not sure how to connect the power supply through the CP, like I would the USB input.  I would like some kind of output faceplate of some kind for the recoil power supply cable to connect through.  I don’t know if I just drill a hole and attach some kind of nut or washer for the Aimtrak power supply cord to connect to?  Any ideas are greatly appreciated. 

Still hoping someone has some ideas on this Aimtrak power supply input.  Thanks

[dgrace]

Getting into the LED wiring lately.  Going off of Chance's idea (see link below). I ended up drilling a hole in middle of the larger micro switch clip with a 5/32 drill bit.  Then twisting the RGB Tropical LED wiring at the top of the LED and then on the end and then pulled through the top of the taken apart button and then the hole from the larger micro switch clip (a little tedious but not complicated).  I then tested it on my PacLED64 board.  Looks good I think.  I'm guessing I need to do this for all 32 buttons before I start extending and crimping wires? That's gonna suck.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=135459.0

[dgrace]

Got my cutting, stripping and crimping tools.  After I've inserted all the LED wiring threw all 32 buttons, next i'll need to extend the wires (based on how far they will be from the PacLED64 boards (I have two)) and then i'll have to crimp the ends (with 2.54mm 1x4 Pin Single Row Dupont Jumper Wire Cable Female Pin Connectors) and place in the 1X4 housing pieces prior to inserting into the PacLED64 boards.  Am I missing any steps?

As far as extending the wires from the RGB Tropical LEDs go (those are super short BTW), I was just going to strip both, twist both together and then use electrical tape to bind them together.  I imagine that's the cheapest option, but probably not the cleanest.  Any other ideas? I've read you can also use molex splitters, or extender cable with a molex female connectors, or also butt splice crimps.  Thoughts?

[PL1]

As far as extending the wires from the RGB Tropical LEDs go (those are super short BTW), I was just going to strip both, twist both together and then use electrical tape to bind them together.  I imagine that's the cheapest option, but probably not the cleanest.  Any other ideas? I've read you can also use molex splitters, or extender cable with a molex female connectors, or also butt splice crimps.  Thoughts?

Twist the wires together and use electrical tape??!!??  Take Nancy's advice, "Just say no."   

Two options you may want to consider:

1.  22-26 AWG butt splice crimps like RadioShack Crimp-On Tele/Alarm Connectors (SKU 6403073) or these or these or these -- Solid, long-lasting connection


2.  Euro-style terminal strips -- These 12 position strips are easy to cut in thirds and the set-screws make it easy to replace an LED if one burns out.



Scott

[dgrace]

As far as extending the wires from the RGB Tropical LEDs go (those are super short BTW), I was just going to strip both, twist both together and then use electrical tape to bind them together.  I imagine that's the cheapest option, but probably not the cleanest.  Any other ideas? I've read you can also use molex splitters, or extender cable with a molex female connectors, or also butt splice crimps.  Thoughts?

Twist the wires together and use electrical tape??!!??  Take Nancy's advice, "Just say no."   

Two options you may want to consider:

1.  22-26 AWG butt splice crimps like RadioShack Crimp-On Tele/Alarm Connectors (SKU 6403073) or these or these or these -- Solid, long-lasting connection


2.  Euro-style terminal strips -- These 12 position strips are easy to cut in thirds and the set-screws make it easy to replace an LED if one burns out.



Scott

I like the butt splice option; since the RGB LED wires are 26 gauge and the wire i'm using to extend them are 22 gauge; so, perfect.  The one from Radio Shack seems to be the cheapest.  Do you recommend finishing off each crimped butt splice with a heat gun or not necessary? I only ask because a heat gun was used at the end of a couple tutorial videos I watched. Thanks

[PL1]

I like the butt splice option; since the RGB LED wires are 26 gauge and the wire i'm using to extend them are 22 gauge; so, perfect.  The one from Radio Shack seems to be the cheapest.  Do you recommend finishing off each crimped butt splice with a heat gun or not necessary? I only ask because a heat gun was used at the end of a couple tutorial videos I watched. Thanks

The heat gun isn't an absolute requirement.

The ones I got from RS a while back (same SKU) weren't the heat shrink kind.

The pic above may be a mistake on the product page -- mine look like this.



If you want to hide the crimps and add some strain relief, stagger the splices and use heat shrink.


Scott

[dgrace]

I like the butt splice option; since the RGB LED wires are 26 gauge and the wire i'm using to extend them are 22 gauge; so, perfect.  The one from Radio Shack seems to be the cheapest.  Do you recommend finishing off each crimped butt splice with a heat gun or not necessary? I only ask because a heat gun was used at the end of a couple tutorial videos I watched. Thanks

The heat gun isn't an absolute requirement.

The ones I got from RS a while back (same SKU) weren't the heat shrink kind.

The pic above may be a mistake on the product page -- mine look like this.



If you want to hide the crimps and add some strain relief, stagger the splices and use heat shrink.


Scott

Thanks good to know

[yotsuya]

"Chance's idea", he says....

[dgrace]

"Chance's idea", he says....

Or, his forum rather.  Whoever came up with it, had the right idea. Not sure exactly who that was.