slim cab question: how thin can I go?

[menace]

So I got my hands on a flat pack cabinet with all the hardware, with a shape like the one here (flatpack.jpg).  But I think its way too big and I've always preferred the dynamo shape for a generic cab.

What I crafted was a bit of hybrid but i'm curious if the slim cabs are wobbly or top heavy?? (assume 26" lcd).  Its hard to see but it has a maximum depth of 24" (so I can fit two on one sheet of MDF) and a height of around 70"

[Slippyblade]

For one of the best examples of a "slim" design, look up Knievel's "Woody" cabinet.

[BadMouth]

Typing on phone, so a PITA to post a link, but the dimensions for my cab are in the link in my signature.  Link to them is in the first post. 

I originally planned to attach it to the wall just to be safe, but the thing is rock solid, so I didn't. 

[menace]

That neo geo is fantastic--and thin!  I guess I have no worries if your base is only just under 20" deep and as solid as you say...thanks for the replies!

[Firepro4Life]

You could always just buy one of those safety strap kits for attaching heavy furniture that could tip over to the wall. Then you could make it as thin as you'd like.


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[Laythe]

I find the limit on thin to be determined by the height of your panel and the angle you want it set back at.  If you're going for a significant layback on a vertical screen like a Galaga, that'll necessitate a back wall significantly deeper than a more upright mounting and/or a shorter screen will. 

In my case, Mimic also had the extra invisible height of the hidden screen area to contend with, there, so I could only lay my screen back to about 15 degrees before it was getting too thick overall for my preferences.

Footprint wise, I'm at about 13" deep.  While I did play it freestanding for a couple weeks, I sure wouldn't recommend it or let a random stranger do it - I had to supervise my friends, and had to catch it and stand it back up a few times when they got exuberant with a both-sticks-back Battlezone dodge.  It was designed to be screwed to a wall, and pretty much has to be given where the center of gravity ended up.

So, if you want to go thin + free-standing, I'd say you probably have to go deeper than 13", or get the CG further back than I did, or both.

[menace]

I am very much a traditional cabinet kind of guy--I like my monitors upright and horizontal and my control panels at 10 degrees or so.  This is where I am at so far.  The far off goal is to make a cabinet that is easily reproduceable that I can sell as a kit or as a complete build.  The maximum depth here is just under 23" so I can do both sides on one 4x8 sheet.  I think the top is too 'thick' so it might go back to the saw for some thinning

[BadMouth]

I think the top is too 'thick' so it might go back to the saw for some thinning

Yeah, that was one area I had trouble working out on mine.
That narrowest spot below the big chunk on top really bothered me on the other slim cabs that I was using for reference.
That's how I ended up with a long skinny marquee.  My marquee only has 4.25" visible after the 3/4" marquee brackets are in place.

Rounding it like a Taito cab would help, but didn't fit with my theme.

Probably won't help you since it's already cut but If you look at the original Dynamo cabinet, the angle below the marquee is more like 45 degrees with the sides extending down past where the top of the monitor is.

In your case, you could cut it parallel to the top corner, or put a steeper angle on the back corner and then cut it parallel to the top corner (resulting in a skinny marquee).
Also depending on your plan for speakers, having the marquee area protrude less would help balance it.