Argh!!! I was typing this reply on and off for the last hour and lost it too!
![OOooh I'm so angry! :angry:](http://newforum.arcadecontrols.com/Smileys/default/angry27.gif)
Here I go again...
That's interesting about Xexex. Perhaps if I'd tried an interlaced mode then R-Type would have worked. Ideally I'd like it in progressive though this screen does de-interlace quite well, especially when it's restoring interlaced low res games,
according to Fudoh on shmups. The blurrines is more likely because it's a 512 line image. The GameCube looks blurry at 576i too, while at 480i it looks very sharp despite the interlaced signal. Either way, I think cropping R-Type to 480 would look best. Sacrificing the top and bottom 8 pixels.
It's frustrating coz if we could get the other games to work by forcing them into a working modeline that wasn't too far away all we'd have to put up with is a bit of speed difference I think.
As I understand it, if we can create a proper monitor preset then groovymame will pick the best mode to do as you describe.
Good call on the indie titles mate, big fan of broforce and I bet that would look killer on this screen
I bet it would. I don't know about Broforce but many Indie games are 640x480. While I love how the v402 displays true 8/16-bit games, they are sometimes displayed a bit too well. They were designed for and on CRTs after all - and they sometimes relied on CRT quirks to hide messiness or enhance effects. Pixely Indie Games however are more of a Pixel Renaissance and the artists intend to expose every detail in full clarity. The v402 has a natural scanline-ish texture. It doesn't have the razor-edged upscaled pixels of HD sets or the forgiving blur of CRT scanlines. For admiring pixel art, it's in the perfect middle. In my opinion.
I actually was lucky and mangaed to get some feet for mine, off ebay would you believe!
I've also got two remotes, one that wigsplitta had and one I picked up, both different but both compatible, you can have one if you like mate.
that would be great! Thank you. Are they both Pioneer remotes? I've seen some cheap v402 remotes on US shops and ebay, but the postage is triple the cost of the remote itself. I tried linking a Sky remote to it but I could only get standby and input buttons working. No menu control.
Will enter the service menu tonight and have a squiz at hours and let ya know, so have you got your MP MODE on then?
You're going to regret asking! It's one of those annoying things that you do not notice until you notice, and then you can't not notice anymore.
![Sad :(](http://newforum.arcadecontrols.com/Smileys/default/sad.gif)
On a progressive image, grey and low-saturated gradients seem to have a coloured banding or oily effect when in motion. I didn't notice this for a long time on colourful games like Mario Sunshine, but for some parts of Metroid Prime and for about the entirety of Ikaruga it's very obvious. MP Mode removes it by dithering the gradients, but it replaces one annoyance with another. The dithering is much less noticeable than the coat of oil on those two games, especially at a distance from the screen. I think newer plasmas do this kind of dithering as standard but they get away with it due to the higher resolution.
Anyway, we leave it off most of the time but it definitely needs turning on for Prime and Ikaruga. I've never seen the issue occur with 2D games from the computer or PC Engine that have been used with the screen. I expect MP mode is best left off for Mame.
MP mode
When animations such as those used in games are reproduced in the input of non-interlaced signals, including non- interlaced computer signals, the “stripe-like shadow” may appear in parts of the resulting image. Known as pseudo- contour, this phenomenon results from the method of gradation expression used to express. Changing the MP mode to ON can greatly reduce pseudo-contour, though gradation expression may be less sharp, depending on the particular input signal.
Also as this screen can only do 16mil colours, do I need to pop it into 16 bit mode instead of 32 on the pc?
No. 16-bit colour is 4,096 colours. Keep Windows set to 32-bit.
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Mmmm ok i've just noticed something, not sure why but my 640x480 pc res doesn't fill the monitor width wise full screen, there's about 10mm either side of black? ![I dunno! :dunno](http://newforum.arcadecontrols.com/Smileys/default/dunno.gif)
Not sure if this just happened because of GM and a sync issue or whether it's always been like that tbh?
@Joe just gone into service mate and can't find that MP MODE? Looks like my set has done 12400hrs btw ![Wink ;)](http://newforum.arcadecontrols.com/Smileys/default/wink.gif)
You can tweak the width and horizontal position with the TV settings: Clk.frq. and Hor.Pos. and then Clk.phs to fine tune the width until it nicely pops into perfect.
A correct monitor preset would also do it I think.
MP mode is on the last page if you keep scrolling down. Perhaps the option is only available with certain input types. It's only needed with certain input types after all.
12400 hours. ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---, I better double check mine.
![LOL :lol](http://newforum.arcadecontrols.com/Smileys/default/lol.gif)
By the way, early plasma's phosphors were rated to have a half life of 30,000 hours by the manufacturers. That's since been upped to 100,000 hours. Who knows if that's because of better technology in modern plasmas or simply because they've now had enough testing time to fix their estimations. Lifespan always seems to be cautiously underestimated. IE: Pioneer's Kuro sets are far too aggressive with the compensatory voltage increase that activates over time. Users have to enter the service mode to remove it.
Anyway, I'm sure these displays will last us a very long time to come.