Power requirements for 60 in 1 PCB ?

[JDFan]

Recently ordered (still in transit) a 60 in 1 PCB and was wondering if anyone knows what the power requirements for them actually is -- I saw in delusional29's Green Invader build thread that he used one of the Molex Power supplies (rated at 2 Amps of 12V and 5V ) rather than a PC or Arcade supply and was thinking of doing the same.

Then was thinking that the Dell 2001 Monitor that I will probably be using for this setup already has a +12V output ( for a speaker bar) as well as 3 USB ports that could be used for the +5v and since the Power Supply for the monitor is rated @20V 4.5Amps ( 90Watts output) was wondering if it would actually already have enough power to supply both the monitor and the 60 in 1 board.

But am having trouble locating the actual power usage specs for the board as most adverts and the manuals do not seem to specify what is needed. So was wondering if anyone familiar with them might know how much power they actually use/need to run stable.

[Nephasth]

Try it out. If it doesn't work, buy a power supply.

[DeLuSioNal29]

Try it out. If it doesn't work, buy a power supply.

This.  The board will either work or it won't.  There's no erratic behavior if it's under powered, so if you plug it in an it behaves fine it should be good.  60 in 1's are tiny and don't really require much power to run.

D

[JDFan]

Try it out. If it doesn't work, buy a power supply.

This.  The board will either work or it won't.  There's no erratic behavior if it's under powered, so if you plug it in an it behaves fine it should be good.  60 in 1's are tiny and don't really require much power to run.

D

Thanks guys -- that is pretty much what I was thinking, so will probably just wait on ordering the PSU and see if it works - figure the 12v audio port can supply around 1.5Amps so that is probably plenty along with the +5v from one of the powered USB ports.

Figure I didn't really have a use for the thing in the first place right away but came across a sale that had it for $45 shipped - so figured I'd give it a home somewhere !

[harveybirdman]

My guess is that it will work and you will be enjoying laggy, horrible sounding and poorly emulated titles in no time.... 

[yotsuya]

My guess is that it will work and you will be enjoying laggy, horrible sounding and poorly emulated titles in no time.... 

[pbj]

My guess is that it will work and you will be enjoying laggy, horrible sounding and poorly emulated titles in no time.... 

[yotsuya]

My guess is that it will work and you will be enjoying laggy, horrible sounding and poorly emulated titles in no time.... 

I call that the truth.

[yotsuya]

My guess is that it will work and you will be enjoying laggy, horrible sounding and poorly emulated titles in no time.... 

I call that the truth.

[JDFan]

My guess is that it will work and you will be enjoying laggy, horrible sounding and poorly emulated titles in no time.... 

Perhaps but it's much easier to use in a build to get someone off your back than having to provide support for the PC every time they decide to adjust something !! 

[harveybirdman]

My guess is that it will work and you will be enjoying laggy, horrible sounding and poorly emulated titles in no time.... 

Perhaps but it's much easier to use in a build to get someone off your back than having to provide support for the PC every time they decide to adjust something !! 

   "You want how much to custom build me my own thing that I obviously don't care enough to look into myself?!?!"

[JDFan]

Was able to find a site that listed Power usage reading for the Dell monitor measured with a Kill-A-Watt device.

Dell LCD Display 2001FP (off)   0W   
Dell LCD Display 2001FP (on with DVI input, displaying Portal menu just for kicks)   39W   
Dell LCD Display 2001FP (on with DVI input)   35-36W   
Dell LCD Display 2001FP (on with no input)   6W   

So looks like it uses around half of the total power output of the power brick (90W) - so seems there should be plenty left over.

[wp34]

My guess is that it will work and you will be enjoying laggy, horrible sounding and poorly emulated titles in no time.... 

Perhaps but it's much easier to use in a build to get someone off your back than having to provide support for the PC every time they decide to adjust something !! 

Been there done that.   

A 60-1 is totally fine for someone not in the lifestyle.

[dmckean]

The ArcadeSD at least has decent emulation and support.

[Slippyblade]

I've always been a bit confused by the hate talk on the 60-in-1 boards.  Yeah, they use an ancient and outdated version of MAME.  Does that mean that all those cabinets built back when that version was current suck because they used that version?  Or is there something about them I'm just not seeing?

[JDFan]

The ArcadeSD at least has decent emulation and support.

Yes - but it's hard to justify $350 for the card when trying to build a low cost system for someone that probably would never notice the difference.

Does make you wonder when someone will decide to use the new MAME Open source licensing to release something similar that actually uses MAME directly and allows the use of an SD card for whatever ROMS you want to use rather than using a proprietary setup that requires a specific ROM set limited to the games they have converted for use on it.

I've always been a bit confused by the hate talk on the 60-in-1 boards.  Yeah, they use an ancient and outdated version of MAME.  Does that mean that all those cabinets built back when that version was current suck because they used that version?  Or is there something about them I'm just not seeing?

Same here -- I always figured they had their place and many people that never played on real arcade system don't even notice the problems with them.  Think it might have something to do with the fact that many small operators were placing them in locations and charging for play rather than paying the $ for true arcade PCB's.

[CheffoJeffo]

I have three 60-in-1 boards that I picked up many years ago during a sale. Immediately installed two in cabs and they have never given me even the smallest problem.

I don't mind them at all for the games that are supported, even though the front end is ugly and the attract music sucks. Even thinking of letting go of my dedicated Galaga and just playing on a 60-in-1.

The feel of controls trumps just about everything else (so I use Wicos) and there is a lot to be said for cost (a extra cab's worth compared to ArcadeSD!), ease of installation and maintenance.

 

[dmckean]

I've always been a bit confused by the hate talk on the 60-in-1 boards.  Yeah, they use an ancient and outdated version of MAME.  Does that mean that all those cabinets built back when that version was current suck because they used that version?  Or is there something about them I'm just not seeing?

Besides the old version of MAME, there's a lot of tearing. These boards seem to keep the original game speed rather than fudge things a percent or two to get smooth video. I couldn't live with it, but a lot of people on here have no problems with them.

[harveybirdman]

I guess it's what you play. I have #shmupgoals to 1cc some titles one day.  There is absolutely no way to do that with input lag whatsoever!

Plus if the thing has games with no sound or non-native controls it's worthless to play them and they shouldn't even be on the list.

[Locke141]

I just used my first XXX-in -one in my last build and learned two things.

1. The one I used was perfect for in use in a gift, for a someone that does not have the inclination to solve problems.
2. Mame on an old PC is superior in almost every way for almost every other kind of build.

I think in the scenario you described a 60-1 should be fine.

[paigeoliver]

Try it out. If it doesn't work, buy a power supply.

This.  The board will either work or it won't.  There's no erratic behavior if it's under powered, so if you plug it in an it behaves fine it should be good.  60 in 1's are tiny and don't really require much power to run.

D

I have had one running on a half broken power supply that won't put out more than 4.5 volts for 3 years now.

[Automark]

60 in 1 boards are fine for the average user. Most people I know only want to play the old games again, and they only do that for like 5 to 30 minutes per month.
Those guys m/f also dont want to maintain an old pc with mame. A xx in 1 always works,

[JDFan]

Just a quick Follow up to the original question -- Got the board in a couple weeks ago and finally got around to testing it.

The Board powers fine using the 12V Aux plug from the monitor however ran into a small glitch with the USB 5V as the USB ports are only powered when the USB upstream is connected to a computer ( At least this seems to be the case) So since this was for a 60 in 1 and no upstream USB was in use I instead took a slight turn and instead used a DC - DC buck converter, that I had sitting around (had ordered a couple back when building the unit using the PacMan plug and play) - Adjusted the voltage from the 12V Aux plug down to 5V and connected both the 12V from the monitor aux plug and the resulting 5V from the converter to a Molex connector - checked the voltage with a meter and ensured I was getting 12V from the yellow and black and 5V from the red and black and all was fine.

Plugged into the 60 in 1 board and it booted fine - So can run the 60 in 1 board and the monitor from the 1 AC source and the unit turns off when the monitor is turned off (since the Aux 12V plug shuts off when the monitor does) - So looks like this setup will work fine.

Pic of test run (excuse the messy job of soldering and wiring - it is just a quick set up to test if it worked)

[Slippyblade]

Nice hack.  Good job.

[CheffoJeffo]

Nice hack.  Good job.

Exactly right and respect for the proper usage of the term hack.

 

[Locke141]

 

It looks like a nice start to a build.

[JDFan]

It looks like a nice start to a build.

Funny you should mention that 

Also received the Trackball for it today so It's almost time to start building (though haven't decided between a bartop, cocktail table, or cabaret build yet !) Ordered the one in the 1st attachment for $29 shipped and received the one in the second pic instead ( which I can only find listed for $53 + $14 shipping) -- Still not sure if it was a better deal or not as the case on this one only has 2 mounting holes so have to look into mounting it but don't really want to deal with trying to swap it for what I ordered ( Already got 2 free ball top joysticks from another vendor that sent microswitch type instead of Sanwa 5 pin connector type - sent them an E-mail since these were a bit cheaper model than what I had ordered and they told me to keep them and they would still refund full amount of order, since EBAY policy was for them to pay return shipping if they sent the wrong item which would cost more than the item + shipping anyway !) and also already have a jamma harness and plenty of buttons.


 Leaning toward the cabaret with a 1 player 3 button setup with the 2" trackball for Centipede, Millipede, etc. but haven't made the final decision yet.

[Locke141]

In your first post you mentioned Delusional29's Green Invader build. If you never build a Vigolix, they are quite cheep, quick, and easy. Seeing how you have got everything up to this point on the cheep/free, including that Dell Monitor if I recall correctly. You may want to consider going that rout. I did one in one week end for under $100. With the parts you have already you could have this build could be done for very little money.

[JDFan]

In your first post you mentioned Delusional29's Green Invader build. If you never build a Vigolix, they are quite cheep, quick, and easy. Seeing how you have got everything up to this point on the cheep/free, including that Dell Monitor if I recall correctly. You may want to consider going that rout. I did one in one week end for under $100. With the parts you have already you could have this build could be done for very little money.

True -- Figure I've got about $150 invested so far in parts and that includes a few extra parts ( Includes the  $43 paid for 16 buttons, 2 joys and the Jamma Harness - and will only use the harness and 5 buttons (and 1 of the 2 free ball top joysticks from another order )  so will have 11 buttons and 3 joys for the next build ! )

So far spent

60 in 1                                       $   45.00 20" Dell                                     $   18.02 ( 2 for $36.04 - Dell 5001FP and HP LP2065) Power Brick for Dell 2001            $   10.98 ( Ebay) Buttons, Joysticks Jamma Harness Kit                     $   42.95 (ebay 2 joys, 16 buttons,jamma harness ) DC - DC buck converter               $     1.98 TrackBall                                    $   29.20

So it will be a pretty cheap build no matter what the wood and other materials run ( which is why I was thinking perhaps a cabaret build with some good quality wood rather than MDF )

[ballboff]

I powered one of those boards off a molex supply before.  My connector on the board had a loose pin I think,  as it stopped powering my board after a while.  I opted for a arcade power supply in the end and powered it over jamma

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