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Author Topic: Convert microswitch to leaf?  (Read 9214 times)

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JudgeRob

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Convert microswitch to leaf?
« on: February 28, 2016, 07:19:34 pm »


I have a bit of a problem with the buttons.  I realize with some testing that I really like the feel of the leaf-switch buttons.  Only, I have already stocked up on the IL microswitch buttons.  I think I will be happy with only 3 or 4 leafs per side (6-8 total), but I want the black plunger and clear surround for the LEDs.  Has anyone tried to convert a microswitch button to a leaf?  Or, better yet, is there a matching leaf switch button on the market that has the clear/black combination I am looking for?   :dunno

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2016, 07:34:21 pm »
Just replace the Microswitches with Microleafs from Groovy Game Gear.  They snap right in the standard HAPP or IL buttons.  They work great and no clickyness!

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=309



[Edit:  Once thing I forgot to add is that the connectors on these are smaller.  They use .110 quick disconnects, not the standard .187.  I've tried .187 and it fits on too loosely.  Not sure if that's a typo on the website or not.  I can double-check when I get home to see what I crimped on there.]

D
« Last Edit: February 28, 2016, 07:48:47 pm by DeLuSioNal29 »
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JudgeRob

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #2 on: February 28, 2016, 10:16:45 pm »
Oh sweet, those would work out great.   ;D  How is the feel?  Is it comparable to the other leaf switches?  How about performance; do they activate as well as the leafs for shooters and games like Track & Field?

Yeah, the golden leafs I have are also equipped with the smaller connectors.  Are there adapters to make them fit properly?  The ipac Ultimate has a pre-crimped harness and would be a lot easier to just use a small adapter instead of cut & re-crimp.

Xiaou2

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #3 on: February 29, 2016, 04:44:49 am »
For feel,  the microleafs will not match real leaf switches.   Not just because of the switch..  but also because of the button itself.

DeLuSioNal29

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #4 on: February 29, 2016, 12:30:55 pm »
They are not leaf by any means.  But they are pretty close.  I have then installed with my dedicated 4-way so it feels great with older games.

Another advantage of using these is that they require less maintenance.  True leaf switches on the other hand need adjusting every now and then.  Microleafs are a good compromise.

As for the connector issue, I just checked and they do indeed need a .110 connector.  You'd probably be better off ordering new wiring if you don't want to do the crimp work yourself.  Paradise Arcade has some that would work (ground daisy chain wiring and rainbow wiring would work):  http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/586-110-wires-and-sets

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« Last Edit: February 29, 2016, 12:51:53 pm by DeLuSioNal29 »
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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #5 on: February 29, 2016, 12:32:36 pm »
I use GGG's MicroLeafs on one of my arcade machines and absolutely love them.
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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #6 on: February 29, 2016, 05:14:58 pm »

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #7 on: February 29, 2016, 05:56:12 pm »
That's pretty brilliant right there.  Bryan comes up with some cool stuff.

And you'd still be able to use the .187 harness.   :applaud:

D
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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #8 on: February 29, 2016, 06:09:55 pm »
Rollie's  would be much closer to the real feel,  as they have actual leafs.

 The only limitation, is that happs buttons have about half the button travel of a real leaf button.

  I guess one could modify a happs buttons plunger,  cutting them, and adding some extension pieces.. to give them more travel depth.

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #9 on: February 29, 2016, 07:06:11 pm »
Wow, that's sweet, just what I was looking for.  I lol'd that it was from Paradise since I just had a package delivered today from them.  These hobby websites can be so difficult to find things in!  I looked at Paradise but didn't think to look for leafs in the "microswitches" category!  :o

WindDrake, any issues keeping them clean with the exposed leafs?

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #10 on: March 10, 2016, 02:42:51 pm »
Funny you should ask, I just got done swapping my player 1 button 1 to test the GGG ClassX with TrueLeaf Pro, and after my first game of Galaga, I can tell you I'm never going back to microswitches for play buttons.

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=356

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #11 on: March 10, 2016, 05:52:17 pm »
Oh, nice, good to know there are so many choices.  Yeah, I noticed a big difference with Galaga.  Track & Field is another one, which is why I want to switch out some more. 

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #12 on: March 10, 2016, 09:50:49 pm »
No one has mentioned yet, the obvious option of converting to proper old style leaf switches. Not as simple or cheap as the solutions mentioned so far, but in my opinion controls are not the place for penny pinching.

« Last Edit: March 11, 2016, 05:51:40 am by jimmer »
On forums jimmer speaks for himself as a Defender fan, not as proprietor of www.jbgaming.co.uk  << Is that advertising or disclosure ? or both ?

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #13 on: March 11, 2016, 01:54:18 am »

No one has mentioned yet, the obvious option of converting to proper leaf switches. Not as simple or cheap as the solutions mentioned so far, but in my opinion controls are not the place for penny pinching.

Are the Rollie leafs and the GGG True Leaf Pros not proper leaf switches?

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #14 on: March 11, 2016, 05:52:44 am »
Are the Rollie leafs and the GGG True Leaf Pros not proper leaf switches?

I've changed my wording to 'old style' rather than proper. Old style leaf buttons have long travel.
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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #15 on: March 11, 2016, 03:35:00 pm »
Can't find old style in my black-clear color scheme.

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #16 on: March 11, 2016, 04:22:04 pm »
No one has mentioned yet, the obvious option of converting to proper old style leaf switches. Not as simple or cheap as the solutions mentioned so far, but in my opinion controls are not the place for penny pinching.

 ^^^  Totally Agree with this    ^^^

 Its not too hard to get hold of some used leaf buttons.   The springs may need to be replaced..  and the buttons may need some polishing... but they will be superior in feel and control to the imitations.

 Note: There is a special technique called "Floating" that can be done with the original leaf buttons,  where you basically vibrate them open and closed,  with almost no vertical travel  ... rather than fully pressing the button up and down.   This allow you incredible rapidfire rates, and reduces any hand / finger fatigue to almost Zero...  allowing you to continue to keep firing for very long time frames.

 Many of the imitations are actually too sensitive, going off on accident.. and they have the standard miscroswitch travel distance... which does not really allow you to be able to use the "Float"  technique.   You also end up bottoming-out the button... and the impact that occurs, ends up causing finger fatigue.   Think about lightly bouncing on a Diving board  - vs - jumping up and down on bare concrete.

 We do not tend to realize the impact on out fingers as much as our feet.. because the feet bear much more weight, we use them more often, and we pad them with shock absorbing sneakers (possibly with gel inserts to boot).

 Its the same thing with Joysticks.  The 8 way wico leaf sticks used a rubber centering grommet, to help slow down the travel speed near the end of stroke... as well as reduce impact forces on the shaft.  You didnt need to push the stick fully to activate the leafs... similar to the way the leaf buttons work.  However, if you did end up slamming the stick... most of the forces were absorbed with the grommet + the way the base is designed.

 For fighting games I would use micros, for their positive click and precision.. especially needed for "special moves"  combinations,  as well as the needed accuracy in diagonals.  Leafs are best with older classic, and rapidfire games.

 I highly recommend putting at least one authentic leaf button on your control panels, for games like Galaga, Asteroids Deluxe, Satans Hollow, Halleys Comet...etc.  Halleys Comet is the real fatigue test!   >:D

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #17 on: March 11, 2016, 07:41:56 pm »
Can't find old style in my black-clear color scheme.

I don't know if they made clear translucents (from which you could make a hybrid with black), I would guess yes but I've never looked for them.   

I don't like the translucents anyway, the material is too hard which spoils the feel and makes a clacky sound I don't like.  But a hybrid should be better.

On forums jimmer speaks for himself as a Defender fan, not as proprietor of www.jbgaming.co.uk  << Is that advertising or disclosure ? or both ?

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #18 on: March 11, 2016, 09:52:54 pm »
I don't know if they made clear translucents (from which you could make a hybrid with black), I would guess yes but I've never looked for them.   

They did.

While I haven't stumbled across many in my travels, I expect pinball suppliers still stock them.
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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #19 on: March 12, 2016, 02:48:44 am »
Old style leaf buttons have long travel.

they will be superior in feel and control to the imitations.


I'll try it.  Are there any particular brands or cabinets to search for to find the 'good' buttons?  I'm assuming this is used stuff on ebay.

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #20 on: March 12, 2016, 07:37:56 am »
I use the short snap ones from therealbobroberts.net
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/whtbuts.jpg

They are very similar to the original Defender buttons which are the material (nylon-like), travel (~5.2mm) and shape that I like. 

You might find e-clip versions too, but I went with the snaps because I can get continued supplies in all the colours from Bob.

Note: There is also a softer button, with squarer edges and slightly longer travel. All 3 of those differences are detrimental in my view.   http://www.therealbobroberts.net/nosbutts.jpg



edit: just realised I've written most of that before, also some installation information:  http://jbgaming.co.uk/Leaf-button-short

« Last Edit: March 12, 2016, 07:44:10 am by jimmer »
On forums jimmer speaks for himself as a Defender fan, not as proprietor of www.jbgaming.co.uk  << Is that advertising or disclosure ? or both ?

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #21 on: March 12, 2016, 02:05:10 pm »
I use the short snap ones from therealbobroberts.net
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/whtbuts.jpg

They are very similar to the original Defender buttons which are the material (nylon-like), travel (~5.2mm) and shape that I like. 

You might find e-clip versions too, but I went with the snaps because I can get continued supplies in all the colours from Bob.

Note: There is also a softer button, with squarer edges and slightly longer travel. All 3 of those differences are detrimental in my view.   http://www.therealbobroberts.net/nosbutts.jpg

edit: just realised I've written most of that before, also some installation information:  http://jbgaming.co.uk/Leaf-button-short

For my cabinet, I'll need long buttons, because my panel is wood.  It looks like the only long buttons on ebay right now are some bulk lots that I'm not interested in. 

If I read Bob Robert's page correctly, http://www.therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#buttons it looks like "Leaf button assembly complete long with button   $5.00"  would be what I need, correct?  So you email the guy, wait for a reply, then send him a check?

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #22 on: March 12, 2016, 02:13:42 pm »
So you email the guy, wait for a reply, then send him a check?

Yep.  It sounds shady as hell, but Bob is one of the straightest shooters imaginable.  He's a long time pillar of the arcade community.

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #23 on: March 12, 2016, 08:01:42 pm »
For my cabinet, I'll need long buttons, because my panel is wood.  It looks like the only long buttons on ebay right now are some bulk lots that I'm not interested in. 

If I read Bob Robert's page correctly, http://www.therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#buttons it looks like "Leaf button assembly complete long with button   $5.00"  would be what I need, correct?  So you email the guy, wait for a reply, then send him a check?

My page that I linked shows various options to mount short buttons in 19mm wood panels.

There's no picture with that description so it's hard to say what it includes. From the price and it's neighbours in the item list, we might guess that it includes button, switch holder and switch.


On forums jimmer speaks for himself as a Defender fan, not as proprietor of www.jbgaming.co.uk  << Is that advertising or disclosure ? or both ?

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #24 on: March 12, 2016, 11:51:07 pm »
Does anyone know if anything on an illuminated button would interfere with those rollie leafswitches? I was getting ready to order some and now I want leaf switches after reading this.
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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #25 on: March 14, 2016, 04:55:21 pm »
Quote
Note: There is a special technique called "Floating" that can be done with the original leaf buttons,  where you basically vibrate them open and closed,  with almost no vertical travel  ... rather than fully pressing the button up and down. 

Shouldn't this technique be possible with a leaf conversion, so long as you know where the contact point is for the leaf?

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #26 on: March 14, 2016, 05:14:17 pm »
Quote
Note: There is a special technique called "Floating" that can be done with the original leaf buttons,  where you basically vibrate them open and closed,  with almost no vertical travel  ... rather than fully pressing the button up and down. 

Shouldn't this technique be possible with a leaf conversion, so long as you know where the contact point is for the leaf?

 You dont need to know where the contact point is.  It happens pretty much automatically, based on feedback that you see.  IE:  You press until it fires, then vibrate lightly... causing the on/off  connect/disconnect.

 The problem is that the modern versions use a much shorter throw, and are almost instantly activated the moment you put your finger on them.   It makes it very stressful and straining... because you have to be very careful not to place too much of your fingers/hands pressure on the switch.   And because of the far shorter travel distance...  you end up bottoming out the button, rather than being able to lightly springboard.   The extra long throw solves the finger pressure issue, and the bottoming-out issue.

 Its something that the current vendors just do not seem to understand.   They are trying to cater to people whom want to use leafs in fighting game control panels...  Where extra throw is not desired.   This is not what leafs should be used for.  Microswitches are better in fighting games, period.

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #27 on: March 15, 2016, 12:46:43 pm »
Its something that the current vendors just do not seem to understand.   They are trying to cater to people whom want to use leafs in fighting game control panels...  Where extra throw is not desired.   This is not what leafs should be used for.  Microswitches are better in fighting games, period.

Steve,  it's not that vendors do not "understand" what you are saying.  We simply disagree with the assertion that it is a universal truth, when in reality it is something which is tied to your personal preference and playing style. 

RE: CLASSX Leaf buttons

By simply adjusting the upper leaf, and optionally, stretching the spring a bit (if you really want more resistance), a very similar feel is achieved without the additional and useless extra plunger travel.  You are simply pre-loading the action of the button, by pressing it to the point where you feel resistance.  This excessive pre-loading action has no performance value whatsoever.  On the other hand, preventing excessive over-travel of the actuation can greatly reduce the maintenance requirements and damage to leaf switch contacts.

With the CLASSX leaf buttons, I routinely use the method you describe to rip off shots in both Asteroids, and Defender, and shot frequency occurs at the capped level of the gamecode.  I.e. the maximum possible.  Please explain how this is possible, if performance is hampered, as you incessantly claim.  I have also never had to clean the contacts, let alone replace the switches, in the many years they have been in use.
« Last Edit: March 15, 2016, 07:30:49 pm by RandyT »

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #28 on: March 17, 2016, 11:37:32 pm »
Does anyone know if anything on an illuminated button would interfere with those rollie leafswitches? I was getting ready to order some and now I want leaf switches after reading this.

Having just received my rollie leafs I checked this out tonight. The will fit on IL buttons with LEDs but too much pressure on the wires for my taste so notched out the bottom just enough so that the RGB wires move freely


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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #29 on: March 18, 2016, 02:19:55 am »
Its something that the current vendors just do not seem to understand.   They are trying to cater to people whom want to use leafs in fighting game control panels...  Where extra throw is not desired.   This is not what leafs should be used for.  Microswitches are better in fighting games, period.

Steve,  it's not that vendors do not "understand" what you are saying.  We simply disagree with the assertion that it is a universal truth, when in reality it is something which is tied to your personal preference and playing style. 

RE: CLASSX Leaf buttons

By simply adjusting the upper leaf, and optionally, stretching the spring a bit (if you really want more resistance), a very similar feel is achieved without the additional and useless extra plunger travel.  You are simply pre-loading the action of the button, by pressing it to the point where you feel resistance.  This excessive pre-loading action has no performance value whatsoever.  On the other hand, preventing excessive over-travel of the actuation can greatly reduce the maintenance requirements and damage to leaf switch contacts.

With the CLASSX leaf buttons, I routinely use the method you describe to rip off shots in both Asteroids, and Defender, and shot frequency occurs at the capped level of the gamecode.  I.e. the maximum possible.  Please explain how this is possible, if performance is hampered, as you incessantly claim.  I have also never had to clean the contacts, let alone replace the switches, in the many years they have been in use.

 From your reply,  you pretty much state your lack of comprehension.

 Reducing travel distance, in its greatest negative impact...  causes a person to bottom out the button, every time.

 - Bottoming out a button creates a negative feeling, as well as strain and fatigue.

 - Bouncing lightly on a trampoline, is far more enjoyable, has more conservation of energy, and is less straining.. than a jumping up and down on hard concrete.

 - Trying to adjust the springs to compensate for minimized travel,  could result in two possibilities:

 1)  The springs still are not heavy enough to support relaxed fingers dead weight, and cause accidental activation's.
 2)  The spring force will be too great, causing a lot more fatigue when trying to use them constantly.

 - The longer travel solves this, allowing the spring force to be less strong.. yet still hold the mass of the loose fingers in a slightly sunken suspension.

 - This longer travel furthermore aids the undesirable and accidental   "Bottoming-out".


  And finally... the typical home user will probably Never have to replace a brand new wico leaf set.  Not only because they are getting the info on how to operate them as intended..  but also because the Arcades did not see them fail until maybe a decade of abuse... Daily abuse, over 8 hours a day, 7 days a week.

 You think the fixes you made.. to make the things last longer, with less maintenance.. makes it a better design.  When in fact... thats far from the truth.   Happ made many generic controls after the big named game companies started to fall... and while the Happ versions are built like Tanks... they feel and control quite horribly.  Especially when compared to the original elder designs that were made by the actual companies themselves.

 The fire rate is only One factor in what makes a leaf special.   The other part is the buttery silk feel.  No loud and harsh impact thud.
Its the same reason why Wico 8 ways will still always be preferred as the best stick for Robotron (and many others).  Heavy action, quick response, and buttery feel.   No harsh impacts at the end of travel.

 There are better ways to solve the leaf wear, without losing the advantages and feel of the travel.


Edit:

 Im going to add something...  Kevin from Retrogaming magazine described the Wico 8 ways as "Mushy"  if I recall correctly.   Stating that he didnt care for that aspect.  However,  when you are just moving the stick around.. and not actually playing a good game of Robotron, your obviously not going to understand the value in that  "mushy" feel.   (which if and when you do... you more appropriately call it "Buttery" instead)

 The leafs on that stick will activate before the end of stroke.. and should you have one of those spastic super-powered hand responses..  your stick's shaft is slowed near the very end of stroke, and does not feel like you have slammed your hand into a brick, wall at full speed.

 This type of stick isnt for every game.   Its not one that you would want to play Street Fighter II.  However, it IS what you would want to use.. to play a game of Robotron, and or one of the many hundreds or thousands?, of 80s classics.

 Most people do not realize the magic of a real leaf button and wico 8 way leaf stick.   There is a real brilliance in their design, one that lasted through the best years of the arcade industry...  and continues to be used today, in modern Pinball machines.
« Last Edit: March 18, 2016, 02:37:53 am by Xiaou2 »

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #30 on: March 18, 2016, 03:59:24 am »
X2 gotta X2.

Don't sweat it, Randy. We understand your point regarding travel, even though Steve never will. 

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #31 on: March 18, 2016, 09:01:34 am »

If you mount wico pushbuttons the way Williams did (pushing outside the contact point) there is no overbending problem.

If you put them in a switch holder, whereby the button sits over the contact and pushes just inside it, you get significantly more bending and load. I can't speak to the longevity of this set up, and I don't use it myself because I prefer the low force Williams style set-up.

Note: the load (and stress) is an inverse cube law on the cantilever length. So 38mm to 29mm roughly doubles the load/stress.



Finally there are other types of button with longer travel than the ones I use. eg BobRoberts 'nintendo shape'. I don't like anything about them, including the extra long travel. Obviously they will cause more bending in the same set-up.







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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #32 on: March 18, 2016, 10:24:18 am »
From your reply,  you pretty much state your lack of comprehension.

 Reducing travel distance, in its greatest negative impact...  causes a person to bottom out the button, every time.

... usual Xiaou raging ...

  And finally... the typical home user will probably Never have to replace a brand new wico leaf set.  Not only because they are getting the info on how to operate them as intended..  but also because the Arcades did not see them fail until maybe a decade of abuse... Daily abuse, over 8 hours a day, 7 days a week.

... more Xiaou raging ...

Steve, why is it that you have to tell people they don't understand what you are saying when it is clear to everybody that they do. You aren't exactly talking rocket science and you are certainly not privy to any leaf switch secrets that the rest of us aren't.

The only mystery here is why you keep being such a dick about it.  :banghead:
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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #33 on: March 18, 2016, 01:03:17 pm »
If you mount wico pushbuttons the way Williams did (pushing outside the contact point) there is no overbending problem.

Based on the original Williams Defender panel I have sitting here, I can say that this isn't accurate.  They are light actuation, as you indicated.  However, at the bottom of the plunger throw, which contrary to Steve's ramblings is very easy to get to, the contacts slide over each other to the point that the perimeter of the upper contact rests virtually dead center on the bottom contact.  This sliding  action is what is responsible for wear, leading to more maintenance and accelerating the eventual need to replace them.

The only way to minimize this wear is to control the plunger travel, along with the spring tension of the bottom leaf.  The Williams switches have a pretty substantial lower backing leaf, so that that doesn't help the latter of the two concerns either.

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #34 on: March 18, 2016, 09:43:57 pm »
Based on the original Williams Defender panel I have sitting here, I can say that this isn't accurate.  ...

The design isn't perfect, but it's not a wear problem unless they wear out too quickly. And I've not seen anything to suggest that they do.

I thought the maintenance problems you mentioned (as being solved by the TrueLeafs) were to do with overbending causing deformation and hence the need for tweaking the leafs.  I've not had any such problems with the Williams set-up, but I've probably only done a max of 300 hours on any given installation.  However I don't think it's much of a problem for the home user (even if it was an annoyance for the arcade operator). I suspect most users would prefer to tweak their leafs every 6months than to give up their old leaf buttons.


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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #35 on: March 19, 2016, 12:40:20 pm »
The design isn't perfect, but it's not a wear problem unless they wear out too quickly. And I've not seen anything to suggest that they do.

Every switch on the Defender panel I have sitting here, including the lesser used P1 and P2 buttons, have a flat surface worn into the contacts, which starts at the center and radiates to the edge, in-line with the leaf.  The gold plating in those areas is long gone, as well as a fair amount of the underlying base metal.  I also know the history of the machine this came from, and it wasn't used in a busy arcade.  The machine was on route for a couple of years when the PCB died.  Sat in a storage facility until I got it, back in the eighties.  Of course, I also used it with my Amiga for a couple of years, but not extensively.

Quote
I thought the maintenance problems you mentioned (as being solved by the TrueLeafs) were to do with overbending causing deformation and hence the need for tweaking the leafs.  I've not had any such problems with the Williams set-up, but I've probably only done a max of 300 hours on any given installation.  However I don't think it's much of a problem for the home user (even if it was an annoyance for the arcade operator). I suspect most users would prefer to tweak their leafs every 6months than to give up their old leaf buttons.

No.  That is part of the equation, but a much smaller one.  A spring of any nature has two wear vectors: repetition and compression/extension extent.  They are both related, and the latter has the ability to affect the former.  In other words, a spring which is minimally compressed/extended, will usually endure many more repetitions than one which is always fully or overly extended.  This, of course, varies with the type of spring, but for the ones we are talking about, it's a fairly accurate assessment.

Example:  Knowing the way Defender is played by the user, one can make a very educated guess as to the manner in which the buttons are actuated.  THRUST is used rather gently, and at much lower repetitions than FIRE.  The button and switch conditions reflect this perfectly.  The FIRE button is very light and bouncy (worn springs) and shows the most wear at the switch contacts, while THRUST is firmer with less wear.  Likewise, SMARTBOMB is the firmest button on the panel, because it's use is limited by the game and is usually thumb actuated.  The softest button travel on this panel is HYPERSPACE.  The reason for this is clear, if you know how a player interacts with it.  Virtually every time it is activated, it is slammed to the fullest extent of the travel, due to it's position on the panel and the speed required to do so.  So even though the repetition count is similar to SMARTBOMB, it has substantially more spring wear due to the way it is used.  But all of the switch contacts are worn well past the gold plating, necessitating more frequent cleaning or replacement.

Which brings us to the main failure component of leaf switches in general.  It's not the leafs, as these can be adjusted to make them last a very long time.  It is the contacts themselves. One of my machines arrived to me with the more generic arcade leaf buttons, with the "washer-type" plastic switch holders which go around the button body.  The operator obviously paid no attention to properly spacing them, as the contacts on several of them weren't just worn, they were virtually gone!  The spring portions of the switches were still serviceable, but without contacts, worthless.  These leafs were firmer than the Williams type, so the combination of too firm a backing/lower leaf and improper spacing, demonstrates very clearly the adverse effects it had on the contacts.  These are the types of issues the CLASSX design mitigates.

« Last Edit: March 21, 2016, 03:13:40 pm by RandyT »

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #36 on: March 19, 2016, 11:25:56 pm »
thanks scotty-c, I feel ok now about ordering up 27 of those rollie leaf switches.  :cheers:
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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #37 on: March 21, 2016, 02:49:06 pm »

I know what you are saying RandyT. Yes they wear, and you could classify it as a failure when the gold plate is rubbed off.

But also they will keep on working and wearing for another 10 years.  All the worn flat switches (on harnesses) that I've got came from 30year old machines that weren't retired because a switch stopped working.

And I'm not seeing any posts with people complaining 'my bloody leaf switches have worn out again'.


So,
Do they wear: Yes.
Is it a problem:  Not a big one.


When I looked at the various leaf button & switch arrangements, I saw the same things you did.  I came up with various designs that cut the wear and stresses (still keeping 5mm travel). But when it came to getting a batch made I went with the traditional switch rather than a novel one.
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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #38 on: March 21, 2016, 03:10:29 pm »

I know what you are saying RandyT. Yes they wear, and you could classify it as a failure when the gold plate is rubbed off.

But also they will keep on working and wearing for another 10 years.  All the worn flat switches (on harnesses) that I've got came from 30year old machines that weren't retired because a switch stopped working.

And I'm not seeing any posts with people complaining 'my bloody leaf switches have worn out again'.

I spent a lot of time in the arcades of old, and can't even count the times I tried to play a machine where the old leaf buttons weren't functioning reliably.  I'm sure I am not alone in my recollection of these experiences. 

In the good arcades, the operators just dutifully performed maintenance on them, to quash complaints from players when they didn't work properly, until an entire industry became tired of doing so and abandoned them.  Thus ushering in the age of the "snap" (micro) switch, which eliminated the frequent maintenance requirements, but which also did not perform the same way for players.  Win for the industry (if you don't consider possible lost revenue attributable to the change), loss for the players.

Striking a balance which addresses both concerns is not just "novel", it is IMHO, a smarter solution.

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #39 on: March 21, 2016, 03:36:24 pm »
when you acknowledge the wall of text it just gets worse.
If you're replying to a troll you are part of the problem.
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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #40 on: March 23, 2016, 06:27:00 pm »
Lol.  Well, thanks for all the feedback.  I had no idea there was so much science behind it.  I think I am ready to jump off the cliff and make the switch of switches.  It seems personal experience is the only way to proceed through these waters.

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Re: Convert microswitch to leaf?
« Reply #41 on: March 23, 2016, 09:22:26 pm »
Lol.  Well, thanks for all the feedback.  I had no idea there was so much science behind it.  I think I am ready to jump off the cliff and make the switch of switches.  It seems personal experience is the only way to proceed through these waters.

There isnt that much science behind it, just strong opinions. Make the change, if you dont like, make the switch back /pun
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