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Author Topic: Top/Clear coat for painted cabinet?  (Read 2871 times)

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lowlytech

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Top/Clear coat for painted cabinet?
« on: February 26, 2016, 11:42:34 pm »
I have finally got my cabinet painted with oil based rustoleum, semigloss black.  4 coats on top of 3 coats of kilz oil base primer on MDF.  On the black, sanded with 400 grit sandpaper between coats.   I am very happy with the smoothness of the paint.  One question however, it seems that the paint is still somewhat easily scratched.  It has had 2-3 weeks of dry time and I noticed I have marked it up in several places just working on and around it.  I plan to get artwork, however I may not get a whole covering, and just have several pieces of artwork that are individually installed.   Has anyone had any luck using a spray based lacquer or some kind of protective coat, or is this going to open up a bigger can of worms?   Appreciate anyone's input that has maybe tried this and what your thoughts were.

Thanks..

Richardgregory

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Re: Top/Clear coat for painted cabinet?
« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2016, 06:41:50 pm »
I have painted my cab and it's been dry for over a year now, but like you said the paint scratches off if you put a fingernail to it.  I did use primer as well....not sure what to make of it.  Maybe too much paint??  My walls in my house don't exhibit this same symptom.

I'm using regular latex paint mind you.

danielm7999

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Re: Top/Clear coat for painted cabinet?
« Reply #2 on: February 29, 2016, 12:30:10 am »
This might sound ridiculous, and others may disagree, but if you live in the U.S. and if theres a Lowes or Home Depot around, you can always ask them in the paint department (at my local store there happens to be a guy working there who really knows paint for furniture etc.) Or, better yet, call up a local paint store who should REALLY know their stuff. What youre trying to do applies to a lot of situations with various types of furniture painting. Just a thought. If you find a good protective coat be sure to list it here if you get a chance, I've been wondering the same thing as well.
- Daniel Mercer Art

jaywv1981

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Re: Top/Clear coat for painted cabinet?
« Reply #3 on: March 03, 2016, 01:50:40 pm »
I have finally got my cabinet painted with oil based rustoleum, semigloss black.  4 coats on top of 3 coats of kilz oil base primer on MDF.  On the black, sanded with 400 grit sandpaper between coats.   I am very happy with the smoothness of the paint.  One question however, it seems that the paint is still somewhat easily scratched.  It has had 2-3 weeks of dry time and I noticed I have marked it up in several places just working on and around it.  I plan to get artwork, however I may not get a whole covering, and just have several pieces of artwork that are individually installed.   Has anyone had any luck using a spray based lacquer or some kind of protective coat, or is this going to open up a bigger can of worms?   Appreciate anyone's input that has maybe tried this and what your thoughts were.

Thanks..

I sprayed Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating Spray on my artwork (which I printed myself on vinyl sticker paper) and it seems to have protected not only the artwork but the black paint around the artwork.  It seems very durable as far as resistant to scratches and stains so far.

garjed

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Re: Top/Clear coat for painted cabinet?
« Reply #4 on: March 03, 2016, 07:38:23 pm »
Evening guys, Google "flat decorators varnish". Polyvinyl do various different finishes. Used it myself on a painted cabinet and it does the trick.

Ian

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Re: Top/Clear coat for painted cabinet?
« Reply #5 on: March 04, 2016, 04:03:00 pm »
I have painted my cab and it's been dry for over a year now, but like you said the paint scratches off if you put a fingernail to it.  I did use primer as well....not sure what to make of it.  Maybe too much paint??  My walls in my house don't exhibit this same symptom.

I'm using regular latex paint mind you.

This is my profession. I just want to point out a couple of paint basics. If you are painting with a dark color (example black) make sure to get a prepackaged color (do not have them tint it). If the paint is tinted the tint will automatically weaken the finish and you will NEVER get a hard enough finish. Second thing to remember is to always follow the recoat schedule. If it says to recoat in 4 hours then apply your second coat in 4 hours. Sometimes we rush it and if it feels dry then we just go to town. Just because the first coat is dry does not mean it is hard enough to withstand a second coat. Usually with latex paints what happens is the second coat will almost "rewet" the original coat and now you just have one big coat that will take forever to harden up. So please follow the recoat schedule. Lastly I am a big supporter of using quality paints. I would only go Sherwin Williams (I am biased) or Benjamin Moore. Both companies use the best ingredients and raw materials in their paint. This will give you a better finish. And lastly lastly if you really want a nice hard finish the best bet is Oil paint. I know some states have outlawed oil paint, and I know it's a pain in the butt however it will give you the most durable finish.

And just a word of advice to the OP. Spray can clear coats need a lot of coats to get an even finish. I would recommend a brush on application instead. Higher quality and thicker finish. You'll end up spending more money on multiple cans  of spray varnish than you will just a quart of the good stuff.

And another quick tip... when using primer have the guy or gal behind the counter tint your primer to a color similar to your top coat. This will easily save yourself a coat of paint.

Any other questions shoot me over a PM.
Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.