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Author Topic: Terminator 2 / T2 Full Restoration w/ Pics  (Read 2935 times)

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danielm7999

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Terminator 2 / T2 Full Restoration w/ Pics
« on: February 24, 2016, 02:42:39 am »
Also putting together a full youtube video on this entire restoration process & details on where to buy the parts needed, prices, and what paints I used.

Originally the cabinet had a lot of scrapes in the side art (restored the art without replacement). All of the yellows were faded and the blacks were dingy and dull. Full paint job on entire cabinet. Whites had scuff marks everywhere. Guns didnt vibrate. Gun bomb buttons missing. Control panel was an ugly hopeless mess. CRT was failing and very dim (cap kit and flyback change didnt help the dimness). Swapped out the tube with a random 25" tube I got out of a TV from craigslist (didnt have to swap yokes - used the TV yoke with no adjustments whatsoever). Inside of cabinet was a dirty dusty mess with coke spills etc. Bomb lights behind the mirror were all dead. Old coin door was missing lots of pieces (needed full replacement). Marquee light didnt work. Woofer speaker was toast. T-molding was old and ugly.

All back to new after 2 months of on/off work done to it.  8)
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Cobolisdead

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Re: Terminator 2 / T2 Full Restoration w/ Pics
« Reply #1 on: February 24, 2016, 09:16:00 am »
 :applaud:

Awesome job! I always loved that game as a kid, but I never see it around here for sale. Congrats on your find and restore! 

danielm7999

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Re: Terminator 2 / T2 Full Restoration w/ Pics
« Reply #2 on: February 24, 2016, 04:32:26 pm »
Thanks man! It seems like a saw a T2 for sale on craigslist in the Alabama area recently. I'll keep an eye out and let you know if I ever come across one.
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Malenko

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Re: Terminator 2 / T2 Full Restoration w/ Pics
« Reply #3 on: February 25, 2016, 07:44:37 am »
fantastic work!  :applaud:
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Re: Terminator 2 / T2 Full Restoration w/ Pics
« Reply #4 on: February 25, 2016, 08:33:33 am »
Cool! That was a fun machine back in the day. Nice work!
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danielm7999

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Re: Terminator 2 / T2 Full Restoration w/ Pics
« Reply #5 on: February 27, 2016, 06:04:31 pm »
Thanks guys! :)
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Re: Terminator 2 / T2 Full Restoration w/ Pics
« Reply #6 on: February 27, 2016, 09:00:33 pm »
Quality


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campbell87

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Re: Terminator 2 / T2 Full Restoration w/ Pics
« Reply #7 on: March 11, 2016, 10:34:20 am »
what tube did you use for the replacement?

danielm7999

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Re: Terminator 2 / T2 Full Restoration w/ Pics
« Reply #8 on: March 18, 2016, 03:41:14 pm »
Campbell87 - It was a Sanyo 25" TV that I got locally from cragslist for free. I didnt buy it based on a model or tube number, because that info wasnt available at the time. I only bought it knowing it was the same size as my original Terminator2 25"monitor. I dont remember the model/tube # offhand now, but honestly that doesnt really matter in this case...

For anyone interested, (and I dont know if this can apply for monitor sizes other than a 25") if youre looking for a 25" monitor, and if you have the original monitor/yoke that you want to replace, and if you have a good chassis like a Wells Gardner k7000, then get on cragslist, find a 25" TV in good shape (model/tube # doesnt normally matter, except I know all Sony's wont work - there may be other models that wont work, but its not very many), open up your new TV, test the ohm's on the colored wires which are coming from the new TV yoke (4 total colored wires, if I recall correctly) with a multimeter (you can buy a multimeter cheap at Lowes/Home Depot), then test the ohm's on your old TV yoke, if the ohm's of the 2 yokes are similar or pretty close then you can completely swap out the new TV (yoke and all) with the old one. Hows that for a run-on sentence? :cheers: ALSO Cut off the connector of the original yokes red,blue,yello,green wires and solder/shrink wrap it to the new TV yoke wires, so it will plug onto your chassis correctly. And another thing: When you get your new tube, find the new tube number AND the old tube number and enter them separately into this site http://tubular.atomized.org/ If the heater values and CRT sockets are the same, which they probably will be, then youre totally good. Your chassis neck board needs to be able to fit the pins on your new tubes CRT neck. And if youre not sure about the ohm's being a little different, then ask around. The guys at Arcade Repair Tips and really knowledgable, shoot them an email if youre not sure. I dont think theres anything else that Im forgetting here...

Im sure there may be people here who will disagree, and I have read others elsewhere who say this is not true, but it is my experience that MOST 25" TV tubes/yokes will be compatible with an original 25" monitor as long as the ohm's are close, & the heater and CRT sockets are the same. I even kept the new tvs degaussing coil and ground straps on the new tube. Was pretty easy after I did all the homework. Once all thats done you sometimes have to adjust the settings on your flyback and on your CRT board to get the colors/brightness you want, but thats EASY, just be careful messing around w/ that flyback. If you have weird color bleeds in the screen after doing all of this then get yourself a hand-held degaussing coil and follow its instructions (again, very easy).

And, as always, DONT ELECTROCUTE YOURSELF BY FORGETTING TO PROPERLY DISCHARGE YOUR OLD CRT (look it up if you dont know how)

The guy in this video does pretty much everything Im talking about with all the same results that Ive had: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nj3kNfdWNdQ

This all worked for me, not sure about anyone else. Thats all I can think of for now...hopefully not forgetting anything
« Last Edit: March 18, 2016, 03:45:15 pm by danielm7999 »
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Re: Terminator 2 / T2 Full Restoration w/ Pics
« Reply #9 on: March 19, 2016, 03:13:28 am »
How in the world did you restore the side art? With a paint brush?
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danielm7999

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Re: Terminator 2 / T2 Full Restoration w/ Pics
« Reply #10 on: March 19, 2016, 02:40:04 pm »
It takes a LOT of  patience and a steady hand but in the end it can look way better than those CRAPPY side overlays (and in my opinion they look VERRRY crappy). Actually I didnt use a paint brush at all. It depends on how bad your side art is. Mine was fairly bad, but luckily it was bad in all the right places.

BLUE BACKGROUND: For example, if you have huge gashes in the blue background behind Arnold, then youre kinda screwed...or at least your job is gonna be a lot harder to make the repair look unnoticeable. Thats because for the original blue background they use tiny black dots overlayed in a pattern on top of the blue to make a gradient from dark blue at the top (lots of black dot patterns) to lighter blue at the bottom (less black dots). It makes more sense if you have one and can look at it up close. If the blue background has been scratched and is white (or even worse, wood) then you have to paint it with a matching blue acrylic paint first, then get a Sharpie Ultra Fine Point pen and recreate/match the black dot patterns. ATTEMPTING TO REPAIR THE BLUE BACKGROUND IS NOT RECOMMENDED UNLESS YOURE PRETTY GOOD WITH YOUR MARKERS & PAINT AND YOU HAVE A LOT OF PATIENCE...otherwise you could screw it up totally and have an uglier mess than you started with.

ARNOLD REDS/LOGOS/WHITES:
Blacks On Side Art: Use Sharpie Paint Markers Oil Based (use Fine Point to fill in larger areas and use Extra Fine Point to make tiny dots for the fine details on his face. The Fine Point can also be used for pretty much any black area if the damage is not too huge. The reason I chose various Sharpies is because their glossiness is consistent with the original art, and their repairs can hardly be identified if done correctly.
Reds On Arnold & Logos: Use either Sharpie Paint Red Fine Point Oil Based or just a non-paint regular Sharpie Red that you get at office supply stores. I started out using the Sharpie Paint red but realized later that I liked the regular Sharpie red instead because it doesnt leave an edge around where you paint. So I recommend a regular Sharpie red marker for all reds on Arnold.
If the red on your T2 & Midway logo's are fading to yellow get a straight edge ruler that you dont mind getting color on, and use it as a guide for your marker to color perfectly on the edges of the logo. Again I recommend using a REGULAR Sharpie red marker for this (not the paint marker). Be careful. Again if you dont have a steady hand and a LOT of patience then you probably dont wanna mess with all this. Midway logo is tedious because its smaller so you have to be extra careful not to go over any of the white. Keep in mind, its better to paint red over the black edge of the logos than over the whites of them, so work your way in on the first few tries until you get comfortable w/ it.
Whites On Logos & Arnold: For the whites on the logos. mask around them with painters tape and use the white Satin spray in the pic. Be sure to mask well, overspray can end up in places you wouldnt have expected. If theres any chunks of whites missing from Arnold, I would suggest using a glossy acrylic paint in a tube & paint it on with a paint brush.

RED BORDER AROUND EDGES OF CABINET: Mask off basically the entire cabinet leaving only the borders open for painting. You should take off the t-molding before doing this. Use the red Satin spray paint listed in the pic. At the Lowes where I bought this red paint, there was 2 different shades of red in this brand. I bought the lighter red of the two. The darker one looks okay but the lighter of the two reds really pops.

T-MOLDING: My t-molding looked like crap when I got it...so I actually painted the t-molding with the same Satin paint that I used on the red border around the side edges. It made the two match and both are slightly glossy so it really looks brand new and clean when it dries. Give it a full 24 hours to dry before touching it.

BLACK ON FRONT WOOD PANEL/TOP/BACK OF CABINET: You have to mask off the T2 kickplate (again, replacement kickplates look like crap, try to preserve your original if possible). After masking the kickplate with painters tape, use the black spray paint that is listed in the pics. I also cut up trash bags and taped them on over the side art. Check the pics for a better idea.

INSIDE: I used the High Heat Ultra seen in the pic. Ultra version makes it mildy glossy and looks better than just the High Heat non ultra. I doubt it was necessary to use a high heat paint, but I figured better safe than sorry. You could probably just go with the Satin black paint if you wanted...just give it several days to air out before you put any high voltage devices back in there.

Its well worth the time, sweat and boredom it takes to do all of this, especially if you plan on keeping your machine for a long time. It'll look brand new once your done. And if you absolutely MUST get side art overlays, for the love of God get one with a red border around the edges...the ones without it look HORRIBLE! Heres a link for one with: http://www.thisoldgame.com/products/terminator-2-side-art-set
« Last Edit: March 19, 2016, 03:11:23 pm by danielm7999 »
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Re: Terminator 2 / T2 Full Restoration w/ Pics
« Reply #11 on: March 19, 2016, 05:44:39 pm »
Good lord, man. Reality shows have successfully spawned over less meticulous work. Sell your television rights!
When you find great deals on Craigslist for CRT based cabs, exuberance :laugh2: can be a bad thing!


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danielm7999

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Re: Terminator 2 / T2 Full Restoration w/ Pics
« Reply #12 on: March 19, 2016, 06:28:10 pm »
HA! :cheers:
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Re: Terminator 2 / T2 Full Restoration w/ Pics
« Reply #13 on: March 20, 2016, 04:51:02 pm »
wow! that looks really good. Nice job restoring the side art over buying new. That must have been very time consuming.   :applaud:

  
 

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