Any luck gluing parts of t-molding?

[rackoon]

Well my OCD is killing me right now. MY slot cutter bit in my router flew out of my router and stabbed  into my leg and even sunk in a ways. 
The problem is that there is one corner of the control panel has a fat uneven slot. I tried putting the t-molding in and its off by about 16th.

Its noticeable but I can  shove it into place if needed. I spent a lot of time on this and don't want to start over. I even thought of filling it with bondo and re routing it.

Has anyone have any luck gluing this stuff.   I was going to try contact cement.

[wp34]

Ouch.  I hope your leg is okay.

I've used hot glue to help hold t-molding in place.

[harveybirdman]

The only trouble with contact cement is that you have to have alignment perfect with first contact.  My first vote would be for bondo and re-route but for the love of all that is holy, tighten that collet son! That shite is scary!

[vwalbridge]

The only trouble with contact cement is that you have to have alignment perfect with first contact.  My first vote would be for bondo and re-route but for the love of all that is holy, tighten that collet son! That shite is scary!

+1 If you have OCD, then you are going to stare at that imperfect corner ever time you play on the cab.

Also, I don't know if I'm going to be able to use my router again for a while after hearing your story. Holy hell, you should count your lucky stars.

[bluelight]

Well my OCD is killing me right now. MY slot cutter bit in my router flew out of my router and stabbed  into my leg and even sunk in a ways. 
The problem is that there is one corner of the control panel has a fat uneven slot. I tried putting the t-molding in and its off by about 16th.

Its noticeable but I can  shove it into place if needed. I spent a lot of time on this and don't want to start over. I even thought of filling it with bondo and re routing it.

Has anyone have any luck gluing this stuff.   I was going to try contact cement.

I have to agree with vwalbridge, I am sort of scared to try and cut the slots I need to for t-molding now next week. :O

I hope you are ok. Would you mind sharing more details about what happened so that I, and others, can avoid the same situation? It would be helpful to know what router you were using as I have heard the Skil 1817 has had complaints of having lose bits and not holding correct depth during routing.

[Phreakwars]

I had to glue the T-molding on my last project because I took out the old molding and replaced it with new. A couple of the corners kept popping up on me. So what I did, was use some Gorilla Glue wood glue in the T-molding grove, then secure it with some clamps till it was dry. Worked just fine for me.

[big10p]

Just pad out the grip part of the t-molding (that fits into the slot) with insulation or masking tape until it's a snug fit, then tap into place.

[CheffoJeffo]

I've used hot glue to help hold t-molding in place.

Best choice. Always works. Can still remove the t-molding later.

So what I did, was use some Gorilla Glue wood glue in the T-molding grove, then secure it with some clamps till it was dry. Worked just fine for me.

Works if you can securely clamp the whole run and keep the expansion under control. IMPO, is overkill for the application and you really don't want to mess it up.

[BadMouth]

My T-molding slot is always screwed up in some spot.  I've only built a couple cabs and few CPs.  It gets better each time.
Usually it ends up off center at some point.  I assume that I've tilted the router while leaning over the piece, but it seems like a mystery.

If it's really bad, I'll fill it in with bondo and re-route.
If it's not too far off, I'll route the proper slot which results in an extra wide slot.
Then I'll hot glue the t-molding in place, holding it centered while the glue cools.
Keep in mind you're probably going to have a string of hot glue trailing from the gun when you pull it away.
Keep the gun on the outside edge so you don't trail glue over anything.

[rackoon]

Thanks for the replies guys. It did stick into my leg  pretty good; about half inch deep about 6 inches from my crotch. That would have been super bad.

I use to be a contractor and used many routers. I teach algebra and shop class but it was after school.

It started to wobble so I turned it off and checked to see if it was tight. It seemed fine so it turned it back on and it flew off and stuck in me.  I sat there in shock as I felt my leg get wet but it didn't hurt that bad. The stem even bent as it wobbled loose.

It made for a weird cut in my leg because the bit was so hot. I may ware a cup next time.

I like the glue gun idea. Never used one. Is that stuff strong?

The funny thing is that we have a construction teacher on site and i watched him do his own stitches last month. I couldn't tell if he was trying to be cool or really a bad ass.
 

[bluelight]

Yikes man!! That is pretty scary and in that area especially with the femoral artery I believe being in that same area along with... well.. your junk :O

Glad you are ok.. I have to admit I was already a little nervous about using a router for the first time this weekend to cut my slots... now I am much more worried lol.

May I ask what brand router it was? I am going to probably buy a Ryobi 8.5 amp fixed based router at home depot for my cuts this weekend. I realize that is like the lowest of the low end but it is $60 and I am trying to keep the price down on my build so its either that or a Skil 1817. But as I mentioned before, I heard complaints with the Skil 1817 about bits coming lose. Not sure if it makes a difference whether you use a 1/4 or 1/2 in bit as far as it staying in better.

Thanks for sharing your story though and the hot glue tip is great to know.

[jimmer]

2 piece slot cutters are at least 100x scarier than a standard 1/4" bit, and should be used with appropriate caution.

If it's vibrating don't continue. Undo the cutter and reseat the cutter disc on the arbor. Depending on how accurate the seating is this can improve (or worsen) the vibration.

The above accident might have been down to the colelt, but that doesn't negate this advice.

[BadMouth]

I like the glue gun idea. Never used one. Is that stuff strong?

They make different strength glue.  You don't want to use the strong stuff though (usually black).
Use the standard crafting crap that comes with the gun.  As cheffojeffo pointed out, the tmolding will still be removeable.

It's basically just filing in the empty space to keep the molding centered.
It has enough stick to keep things in place, but if you needed to redo it the tmolding can still be pulled out and the glue can usually be pulled out in one or two big rubbery strips.
(the glue is springy and will let go of the wood before it breaks itself)

[CheffoJeffo]

+1

[rackoon]

thanks guy this site rocks 

My wife has glue gun from many years back I will try and track it down and play around with it. I will do a trial run on a scrap peice of wood first to see it I can make it work

[kane916]

+1 for hot glue. I had my doubts but I used it on my cab and it has held up fine for years now.