Hello Bluelight,
Apologies for the mess.
If you are playing fighters, and modern games.. you may never really know or care about the difference in switches. Usually the game is up in volume, pc fans going.. and the cabinet itself absorbs a lot of the noise.
Generally speaking, Leaf buttons are for particular kinds of older classic games... especially rapid-fire games (where shooting in very fast succession matters a Lot) , and or games that had no Auto-Fire, and required a lot of constant firing.
Halleys Comet is a good example of needing a lot of fire presses... I believe it has auto-fire...but you could never do well with using it. The game allows you to fire much faster, when using manual firing. (as was the case in many older shumps / classics... but not so much in the later games)
Asteroids Deluxe is a good example of a game that allows machine-gun like ultra-fast repeat fire ability. Meaning... you can squeeze like 5 bullets into a mere inch of space. (more bullets are added as the others hit something... and the close the rocks are too you... the faster you are able to repeatedly blast them)
If you are using Mircos for A.D. you may have a lot of trouble destroying asteroids when they get really close... as micros have a much longer set depth of travel... before they can re-set. Leafs that do not snap... can be vibrated lightly (a technique called "floating").. and open/close the contacts from a distance as thin as a piece of tracing paper.
Another good example is on Galaga. While the fire rate is not that fast... if you are good, and last many stages in... you can easily and quickly fatigue, due to microswitches heavier spring resistance... as well as the actual impact that happens when you bottom out a microswitch.
With a real leaf, you dont have to bottom it out... as you can stay suspended in air.. much like a trampoline. The energy you push down, will be stored and immediately returned to help you back upwards a bit.. and you never have to hit the bottom of the button in a hard momentum-stopping clash.
Leafs are not that difficult to take care of. Clean them like once every 6 months, to a year.. depending on use. Place a business card between them... squeeze the leafs against the card tightly as you pull the card outwards. Repeat a few times, until you see there is no more black-ish markings.
Part of the difference that real leaf buttons offer.. is a much longer button travel.. that no microswitch based leaf button hack can provide.
This allows you to comfortably rest on the buttons without accidental activation... and allows for floating the leaf without losing momentum and bottoming out.
Some of the new micros are quieter, and offer less resistance. This can make it so that you have to be careful on how you rest your fingers over the button, least they accidentally go off.
My advice is to at least get One old-school leaf button assembly, used or NOS. And place it as the 7th button, diagonally to the left bottom corner. This will allow you to use standard micros for typical games.... and the real leaf, for the elder classics (or other games that may help with rapid and or constant manual fire).